Ayurveda Lovers Unite!!!

[flowinlocks]

Ok, so after I took out the rollerset, my hair looked thick and it was frizz free and my scalp felt really clean (hopefully this would last for a while). However, my hair feels a bit different but I think it's because I just used 2 tablespoons of Shikakai and cold water. I did pre poo with Vatika oil but I think I'll change it a bit. Here's what I'll do next time:

Mix 1 tablespoon of Shikakai, 2 of Alma (or Amla as I have seen erplexed), 1 of Bhrami and warm water.
Normally, I pre poo with Vatika oil but I'm thinking of skipping this step and just adding it to my mixture, I'm still not 100% sure. What do you ladies think of that?
Finally, I think I'll wet my hair before applying the paste because when I did it on dry hair, it was a bit difficult getting through 11 weeks of new growth and I think I even missed a spot.



TIA

Please don't skip this step! Preoiling your hair protects it from the harshness of the powders. Even when mixed with cond. They can be strong. PLEASE don't underestimate the strength of these powders.

 

[LaidBak]

Please don't skip this step! Preoiling your hair protects it from the harshness of the powders. Even when mixed with cond. They can be strong. PLEASE don't underestimate the strength of these powders.

@Gabrielle.A AMEN! LoL! I just went through that ordeal.

 

[Nasdaq_Diva]

Yesterday, for the first time in about 6 months I *gasp* used shampoo!

Shampoo: Sandhu's Amla & Brahmi Hair Wash (balances Pitta Dosha)
Condish: Sandhu's HEENA Hair Conditioner

My hair turned out ok, nothing to write home about! I wish this condish was thicker..kinda watery. On the plus, my scalp was very clean!

I mix kalptone and Brhami with HEllo hydration. Im throwing the kalptone out and buying more amla powder.

Can I have it?

 

[chebaby]

does anyone know why people mix green tea with henna???

 

[choctaw]

does anyone know why people mix green tea with henna???

Green tea is slightly acidic (which is adequate for dye release) and actually imparts a bit of moisture. ACV (what I used to use), lemon juice, and other acids are way too harsh for my dry strands. Green or chamomile tea work just as well. I routinely mix green tea and honey into my BAQ Henna.source: Henna F.A.Q. | Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

 

[chebaby]

thank you. im not sure if i will add the tea or not. im not really doing the henna for color im doing it for conditioning purposes but i end up with color anyway lol.

 

[Nasdaq_Diva]

thank you. im not sure if i will add the tea or not. im not really doing the henna for color im doing it for conditioning purposes but i end up with color anyway lol.

If you're doing it for conditioning purposes, I wouldn't add any terps (tea, OJ, ACV, Lemon Juice etc) to it. Also, as soon as you mix it, you apply it. Don't sit and wait for the color release.

 

[Ltown]

Why do they call it henna gloss, from what I read it just conditioner with the henna?

 

[chebaby]

If you're doing it for conditioning purposes, I wouldn't add any terps (tea, OJ, ACV, Lemon Juice etc) to it. Also, as soon as you mix it, you apply it. Don't sit and wait for the color release.

this is what i do with the henna gloss. i apply it as soon as i make it and i dont add anything acidic to it but i still got color. enough that people noticed. i left it on my hair for an hour.
i dont mind the color so much now that i know what it will look like on my hair but that wasnt why i was using it in the first place.
the kind i used was dulhan mahendi henna. i heard jamila gives more red color so i will add amla to it.

 

[flowinlocks]

Removing Henna From Hair
Henna should be considered permanent from step one. If, for whatever reason, you have decided to try to remove henna from your hair, there are some things that MAY help. This is not a guarantee, and it is not wise to assume that these methods will work on your hair before you henna. Unfortunately, many times, henna has to be grown out and cut off, or bleached and dyed over. Part of the reason for henna's subborness is that unlike many permant hair dyes, which are oxidative dyes, henna is a direct dye. Some permanat dyes, like Feria, are also direct dyes. Many color removal methods are targeted towards the more common oxidative dyes. Let me make this plain- you can try the methods below, but don't hang your heart on them working. Check out the old Henna Removal Thread (which would be better titled, as Iris called it, The Impossibility of Removing Henna Thread) for some sobering science as to what's been tried and did not work.



Lemon Juice and Conditioner
There are definite results from this, however, it seems to work best on recently hennaed hair, while hair that has had henna on it awhile tends to lighten and then darken back up, although not all the way. 4 steps forward 3 steps back sort of thing. To attempt, warm up the lemon juice (especially if you had it in the refrigerator) until it's bathwater warm. Add the conditioner (something cone-free and cheap like V05) at a one to one ratio with the lemon juice. If you used a thinner conditioner and the mix appear very runny, apply to dry hair, if it's very thick apply to towel-dried hair. Wrap in saran wrap and keep it warm (some people have used heat caps or heat packs under a warm hat) for two hours, then rinse and condition.

Fruit-Based Color Stripper and Color Toning Afterwards
One woman managed to get back to blonde from henna copper after a long, expensive process. You can read her story and see her results here.

Goldenhair�s Method
This method is reported to have worked, but no specific product is given for the crystals she used. See her method here. Here's the product she used:L'Oreal Effasol Color Remover


Yogurt
Take normal (fatty) yogurt and drain the whey. Apply to hair, wrap hair in saran wrap and cover with a warm hat. Let sit for two hours, then wash with a clarifying shampoo. Repeat as necessary. This method is reported to work best on people who have color treated hair under their henna. Results on virgin hair were poor.

Amla and Oil
Mix one cup of EVOO with a few tablespoons of amla. Heat in the microwave until it is warm (not hot, you don�t want to burn yourself). Apply to hair, wrap in saran wrap, don warm hat. Let sit as long as you can stand it (4 hours minimum) and then wash with a clarifying shampoo.

Colorfix
Some people have had success with Colorfix, by letting it sit far past the recommended time, and only using the first two bottles. Colorfix is available at Sally�s. Unfortunately, readarkening to the original henna color is very common.

Alkaline Shampoos
Alkaline shampoos, such as baby shampoo, may help speed the removal of direct dyes. Washing with hot water will also help, but if done too often can cause dryness.


Photo of Medvssa growing out her hennaed hair.

Removing Indigo
Many of the same techniques apply for the removal of indigo, although the good news is that indigo isn't as color fast as henna.




Hennaing Eyebrows
Eyebrows can also be colored with henna. Swab eyebrows with rubbing alcohol, allow to dry completely. Repeat. Apply henna to eyebrows, and stick pieces of saran wrap to them. You may or may not need to tape them in place. Allow to sit for half an hour to two hours and rinse. Always be careful not to get anything in your eyes.




Premixed Henna
Morocco Method Henna- Natural colors coming from a blend of henna, cassia, and indigo. http://www.morroccomethod.com/henna.shtml

Lush Henna Haircoloring Products � Blocks of color-enhancing herbs. LUSH Fresh Handmade Soaps and Natural Cosmetics

Logona Herbal Hair Colors� 100% Natural hair coloring (UK Site). http://www.logona.co.uk/herbalcolour.html

Surya Henna Creams � Mild, organic, nonmetallic hair colors are added to ensure desired color. Rinses out after 7 - 10 washings. Surya Henna product guide

Lustrous Henna - Natural colors available in red, brown, burgundy and light brown. anti dandruff, natural nourishment of hair, strengthening, hair tonic, all herbal henna dye, newest invention

The Long Hair Community Discussion Boards - Expressions with Henna- Coloring Hair Naturally

 

[flowinlocks]

Covering Gray with Henna Mixes
Henna can and will cover gray. It is important to remember that gray or white hair is lighter than the hair that has not grayed yet, and so it will be a lighter, brighter color than the rest of the hair. Often it looks like natural highlights. When strand testing hair with gray, be sure to have some of BOTH colors of your hair for strand testing.
Relevant links: Mixes for people who are covering gray

Strand Testing
This is an IMPORTANT step - skip it at your own peril.

Why strand test?
Being that henna and henna mixes work with your own hair color, you must test to see what your actual results will be. It isn�t like chemical dyes where you get the color on the box.

Making Test Samples
If you have 100% virgin hair - it really doesn�t matter which way is up when it comes to testing samples. You can just take a bunch of hair from your brush, mix it into your henna mix an call it good. You may want to try making test locks, though, as they should light better than hairballs. To do this lay your shed hairs out. You do not have to root orientate them, though it may be a wise idea. If you chose not to root orientate them, you can fold the hair over a pencil, twist, superglue the twist, then slide the lock free of the pencil.

If you have previously dyed or chemical treated hair - To get a good test result is going to take more work. When the ends are one color and the roots another, you want to know how that will look on your head. A hairball test, where the hair is all matted up, will not show the change in color down the length of your hair. Although it IS a pain, it's best to collect shed hair, stick all the roots to some double sided tape, superglue the root end, and test that. A test lock should be at LEAST the thickness of a pencil, and should be root-end orientated to give a clear result.

One thing people forget is the effect of heat. Body heat will speed up any reaction. When strand testing, put your mix on the test lock and put it in a baggie, then put the whole thing in your pocket for the length of time you would keep it on your head. That way body heat is accounted for in the end result as well. Remember: Whatever you are planning to do to your hair, do to your test lock as well! This includes shampooing or not before hand.

Application
It�s best a two-person job, though it can be done alone. Make sure you give yourself enough time to do a good job, you don�t want to miss spots because you were in a hurry.

Hair Preparation
You want to be consistent. Whatever you do here, you also want to have done to your strand test. If you didn�t shampoo your strand test and then shampoo your hair before you henna, you may get different results. To ensure maximum access of henna to the hair shaft, most people will henna on hair that has been shampooed and rinsed well, but not conditioned.


Skin Preparation
Some people cover their skin by their hairline and their ears with lotion or Vaseline to keep the henna from staining. Henna will stain your palms, not only during application, but also during the rinsing process. Latex or nitrile (if you have latex allergies) gloves are available at most drug stores.

Wet or Dry Hair?
Towel dry hair seems to work best. If your hair is too wet your mix will become runnier and can leak around the saran wrap or shower cap. Dry hair leeches moisture out of the mix, making it gritty and harder to work with.


Application
Section the hair, working the henna down to the scalp and then towards the ends. Pile hair atop the head, wipe stray henna off skin, and wrap your head with saran wrap or a shower cap. The henna is only active when it is wet, and it will stop dying (and be a HUGE pain to rinse out) if it dries. Top off with a warm hat or a towel. Heat enhances the dying process. Heat caps may also be used on a low setting.


Rinsing
Get some cheap cone-free conditioner (such as V05 White Tea Therapy). Get in the shower, blast off your hair a little, then keep your hair out of the water and work in handfuls of conditioner. I go through a full bottle if it's a little bottle, and half of one of the 33% MORE FREE! bottles. Just work the conditioner in. You'll need lots. As you work the conditioner in start gently detangling from the ends up, adding more conditioner. Only when you can get your fingers mostly through it should you rinse. This does a few things: 1) you get a CO cleansing treatment as this is going to take you at least 20 mins to work into your hair before rinsing. 2) detangling helps the cassia mud rinse free easier, diminishing rinsing time overall. I cut my rinsing time in half with this method. Just be patient.

Other people have good luck using what's called a "mermaid soak" where their hair is soaked in a bathtub or bucket of water to loosen the henna before rinsing.



Post Henna Hair
Texture
Right after you henna your hair may feel dry, thick, and just�strange. Do not panic, that�s perfectly normal. Your hair has been smoothed and coated with henna. Henna has bound to the keratin, and it will take the oxidation process for it to completely settle down. During the rinsing process, you have also taken off any remaining oils on your hair. Take a small amount of oil or a leave in conditioner, apply to the ends, and damp bun your hair. It should adjust within a few days.

Oxidation
Expect your color to change, specifically, to get a little darker and less orange. The oxidation process takes about 3 days and then you will know your final color. So if your hair is a little shocking, calm down and give the color time to settle. Relevant links:

TouchUp Applications
How often you do your henna will depend on several factors including fade, hair growth and how dark you want your henna. Check out and participate in the How Often Do You Henna? Poll.

 

[flowinlocks]

Waiting for Dye Release:
Henna takes time to release its dye after it is mixed. The warmer the liquid you add, and the warmer the place you put your henna to sit, the faster you will get dye release. Note that using boiling water may be enough to kill the dye outright, or at least cause the dye to demise quickly in some hennas. If your henna is in a bowl, look for the henna to be darker on the surface. Once scraped away there should be a lighter green underneath. Another method to determine dye release is to put the mix into a plastic bag and place a white paper towel underneath. If the paper towel shows yellow or orange, the henna is ready. Spot checking on skin is also effective. Place a small dot of henna on your skin and allow it to sit for 30 seconds or so. Rinse. If there is a pale orange spot, the henna is ready to go.


Henna Mix Storage:

* Cassia powder: fridge or room temp (cool dark place) up to one year, Cassia paste: freezer up to 6 months
* Henna powder: fridge or freezer up to one year, Henna paste: freezer up to 6 months
* Indigo powder: room temp (cool dark place) up to one year, Indigo paste: throw it away, it won't keep
* Amla powder: fridge or room temp (cool dark place) up to one year, Amla (paste): freezer up to 6 months

For only a small amount of color you can try henna gloss, which dilutes the amount of dye and still gives great conditioning benefits. See this thread for a discussion of which conditioners work best for henna glossing. Relevant Links: Teach me how to make a henna gloss.


Sample Mixes
These are some of the more simple straightforward mixes. There are endless variations. You can see all manner of hennaed hair in the Show Me Your Hennaed Hair thread.

Blonde Boost & Condition- Adds deep conditioning and warm hues to blonde hair. Results will vary with natural hair color.

1 TB body art quality henna
2 TB cassia obovata
2 TB chamomile powder (open up 1 chamomile tea bag)
Mix powdered ingredients into a paste using water and/or chamomile tea as a liquid. Cover and place somewhere warm until you see dye release. The color of the paste may look darker. Mix the paste with 1C yogurt or conditioner, wrap hair in saran wrap and allow it to sit for 2 hours. Rinse and condition.


Nightshade�s Copper Mix- Gives copper hair on light to medium brown hair without deep auburn undertones.

80 grams body art quality henna
120 grams cassia
~2c (not boiling) strong chamomile tea made in distilled water
Brew tea (3 tea bags in a teacup with distilled water) and let steep covered until lukewarm. Mix together henna, cassia, and tea and then cover let it sit until dye release (identifiable by the top of the henna paste turning brown. (I put mine on top of the food dehydrator for about 4 hours.) Place a small dot on the inside of your wrist for 30 seconds. If it leaves a pale orange spot, the dye is ready). Cover hair with the paste and cover with a plastic shower cap or saran wrap. Place a warm hat on to keep it warm. Leave on for a minimum of 2-3 hours for a lighter stain, or as long as overnight for a deeper color.


Standard Red- Straight henna stains hair red to copper orange depending on the color it is applied to. Please see the color charts linked earlier in this document for what color this may give on your natural hair color. It is strong and permanent, use with caution.

100 grams body art quality henna
Warm water (not boiling)
Mix together until a yogurt-like consistency and then let it sit until dye release (identifiable by the top of the henna paste turning brown. Place a small dot on the inside of your wrist for 30 seconds. If it leaves a pale orange spot, the dye is ready). Cover hair with the paste and cover with a plastic shower cap or saran wrap. Place a warm hat on to keep it warm. Leave on for a minimum of 2 hours for a lighter stain, or as long as overnight for a deeper color.


Henndigo- A mix of henna and indigo. Gives a deep brown with a touch of burgundy. Works best on brunette shades. Please see the color charts linked earlier in this document for what color this may give on your natural hair color.

40% Body art quality henna
60% Pure indigo powder
3TB Amla powder
Apple cider vinegar
Mix the henna up, using a splash of ACV and then warm water (or coffee or black tea) until it is the consistency of pancake batter. Allow for dye release (the top layer of the henna will turn dark). In a separate bowl prepare the indigo by mixing the powder with warm water and allow it to sit for 5 minutes as you prepare the amla. In a small dish mix the amla with water and microwave for 25 seconds. Mix the henna paste, indigo paste and amla paste together, blend well. Wrap your hair up on top of your head in saran wrap; let sit for 3-4 hours. Rinse well and condition. Be warned that on some people the indigo will fade to varying degrees, leaving the henna to show through. If you are not comfortable with some red be wary of this option.


Cathy�s Two Step Henndigo for Deep Golden Brown- Gives golden highlights in the sun on dark brown hair with 50% gray.

100g BAQ quality henna
50g Amla
50g Indigo
1 TB ACV
Tea Tree Oil
Mix 100g henna, 1 TB ACV, and 5-10 drops of tea tree oil. Add water until the henna is the right consistency and let sit until dye release. Apply henna, wrap head, let sit for 3 hours. Rinse, condition, lightly shampoo to make sure all conditioner is off of hair. Mix up 50g Amla to a yoghurt consistency, mix up 50g of indigo a bit more watery with a teaspoon of salt, put them both together and on to my damp hair. Wrap let sit an hour. Rinse. Special thanks to Cathy88z for this mix!


Henna + Indigo Two Step Process- More effective in getting black than a single-step process. As with the henna portion there is lots of information on Henna for Hair, so we will not go into an exhaustive process, just the basics. Please see the charts for what color this may give on your natural hair color. Note: to speed up dye release in the henna, thus reducing the overall time of this process, use warm water/tea/coffee. The water should not be boiling, but warm to hot. Watch carefully for dye release.

100g body art quality henna (or as much or as little as it takes to cover your head)
100g indigo (or as much or as little as it takes to cover your head)
Mix up the henna with enough black tea or coffee to make a paste. Allow for dye release (the top layer of henna will turn dark), and apply to head. Allow to sit for 2-3 hours. Then mix up indigo with water and apply to hair immediately. Indigo dye demises very quickly. Wrap hair in saran wrap and leave on for 2 hours. Rinse and condition. Be warned that on some people the indigo will fade to varying degrees, leaving the henna to show through. If you are not comfortable with some red highlights be wary of this option.



Fia�s Henna Gloss- For slighter color change and deep conditioning.

2-3 TB henna powder
Enough water to mix a smooth paste
Your favorite conditioner or plain, unsweetened yogurt
Mix the henna powder with water to a smooth paste and let this stand until you see dye release. Mix the henna paste with either your favorite conditioner or plain yogurt. Apply to dry or damp hair, wrap in plastic wrap, and leave on for as long as you wish. Rinse as you'd rinse out a regular conditioner. This one is easy to apply and rinse, as it's basically conditioner or yogurt with just a hint of henna dye in it. It's good as either a color refresher in between regular henna applications or if you only wish to have a very subtle color change. It will give reddish hints on blonde and light brown hair. You may see some reddish highlights on medium brown, but probably not too much. On dark brown/black hair you'll only get the conditioning benefits from the conditioner/henna.


Pani's Blends- Wonderful experimentation on human hair. All strands are on light human hair (see the control). Equal parts of the herbs listed mixed with water and a splash of lemon and left to sit for 12 hours (with the exception of the indigo which was added to the prepared other herbs right before application to the test strands), applied to hair and wrapped, left to sit for 2.5 hours.

Top row: Control, cassia+amla, cassia+henna, cassia+amla+henna
Bottom row: Cassia+amla+indigo, cassia+henna+indigo, cassia+amla+henna+indigo

Relevant links: Check out Lexie's Henna Experiments here. Also see Henna Mixes Page at Henna for Hair

 

[flowinlocks]

* Supposed Ideal Dye Release Times
* Jamila- Has the longest dye release time. After mixing, allow 12 hours for dye release. Originates from Pakistan. Comes in every June/July.
* Yemeni- Requires 8-12 hours for dye release. Originates from Sana�a, Yemen. Best crop is in the summer (more detailed investigation needs to be done on how exactly they run their henna farms).
* Moroccan- Has the fastest dye release. After being mixed it only need to sit for 2-4 hours for dye release. Originates from the western Sahara of Morocco. Is harvested in the spring.
* Indian- Needs to sit for 8-10 hours for de release. Originates from Rajasthan, India. New crop comes in the fall.
* Prabada- Needs 8-10 hours for dye release

Despite the above recommendations for dye release, when when various crops were tested in controlled conditions for time, temperature and PH there was little difference in the dye release times under controlled conditions. When prepared in these controlled conditions there was little to no difference in the various henna crops

Relevant Threads: How to Choose the Right Henna Powder for Hair by Henna Sooq


The Dangers of Poor Quality Henna
Why not just get that box of henna from the local health food or Indian Food store? While you may get decent henna without additives, there is no guarantee. Many countries, such as India, have less stringent labeling requirements than the US, the UK and other location. Even if the box says 100% henna hair coloring that may not be what you are getting. Some additives may include metallic salts, which though they will help the color move towards something other than red, it can react with chemically treated hair, turning it green or black, or even causing it to smoke. These are called henna compounds, and you can read more on the dangers of them here. Most often when hairdressers freak out that you are using henna, they are thinking of henna compounds, which is what reacts with chemical treatments. To test if your henna has metallic salts in it, use the method at the bottom of this page.

Another additive to poor-quality henna is green dye or sand. The greener the henna powder, the fresher it is thought to be, so unscrupulous vendors will mix things into the powder to make it greener. While these impurities can often be seen under a microscope, they can be hard to detect otherwise, which makes having a reputable supplier all the more important.


Determining Your Mix
So you�ve decided this henna thing is worth investigating further. Now you need to figure out what works for you.

What Color are You After?
We already know that henna is red. We also know that you can alter the color with other herbs. Some colors, though, are just not achievable. You cannot take black hair to fire engine red, and you can�t take deep brown hair to copper. Henna only makes hair darker. Also note that if you see a picture of someone with your natural hair color and a nice color of henna, realize that the color of hennaed hair is variable depending on the light it is in. See the picture Iris provided earlier in this article for an example of the range.

This information is sent out when you order henna from
Catherine at Henna for Hair last time I ordered. This should give your what your end hair color will be when using various combinations of henna, cassia and indigo. Again, there's TONs of methods of mixing and dye release and how long you leave the goop on your head, so please use this chart only as a guide.

You can also order premixed colors from Morocco Method. Here is their color chart.

And here is what I estimated the breakdown of their colors to be:
Neutral (just adds shine and strength)- 100% cassia
Marigold Blonde- 1/3 henna, 2/3 cassia
Copper- � henna, � cassia
Red- 100% henna
Light Brown- 2/3 henna. 1/3 indigo
Medium Brown- � henna, � indigo
Burgundy- 2/3 henna, 1/3 indigo
Mahogany- 1/3 henna, 2/3 indigo
Sherry- � henna, 3/4 indigo
Black- two step henna, indigo process



Mix Components: Powders/Herbs

* Cassia- Neutral coloring
* Indigo- Blue coloring, often needed for browns and blacks
* Amla- though Amla does not have a dye of it�s own, it has properties that help with the uptake of dye. It also tends to tone down the red in henna and make it more brown. Amla is also acidic, so you can refrain from adding an additional liquid acid if you use amla. Amla may also combat the curl reducing properties of henna. Amla in large amounts has been found in inhibit the uptake of henna into the hair, so if used it should be restricted to a smaller amount.
* Other herbs-There are lots of other things you can add to your henna mix to help alter the color. Be warned, it takes a LOT to push the color of henna one way or the other. There is a good list of these herbs in The Article on Hair Coloring with Herbs & Other Natural Ingredients.

How much powder do I need?
The standard rule of thumb seems to be 100g of powder for every 12 inches of hair. Experience of users has found this is overshooting in most cases. Many people with waist length hair of medium thickness can easily use only 200g of henna. So, the estimates below are for medium thickness hair. Adjust accordingly based on your hair thickness, and type. If you have thick or curly hair, consider doubling these amounts. It's always better to have extra on hand than not enough.

* Shoulder Length- 75g
* BSL- 150g
* Waist- 250g
* Classic- 350g
* Knee- 500g


Grams to Cups/TB Conversaion
I used conversions for flour to go from grams to tablespoons and cups for those that don't have scales:

* 1/8c (2 TB)= 15g
* 1/4c (4 TB)= 30g
* 1/3c (5 TB + 1 tsp) = 40g
* 3/8c (6 TB) = 45g
* 1/2c (8 TB)= 60g
* 5/8c = 70g
* 2/3c= 75g
* 3/4c= 85g
* 7/8c= 100g
* 1c= 110g



Mix Components: Liquids

* Acids - Lemon juice, lime juice, red wine. There is much debate on weather or not an acid is needed to achieve dye release in henna, and the answer for hair at least, seems to be no. Lemon juice has been reported to help keep a henna mix lighter, and wine a deeper red. While acids may speed dye release, too much acid in a mix may lead to dry hair. Use only a little. Newer research has shown that lemon actually inhibits the lawsone molecule, so while lemon juice does help keep the henna color lighter, the same results could be achieved by simple dilution with conditioner or cassia. More information has also shown that indigo does best with a PH around PH 8, while henna likes something a bit closer to neutral (PH of 7).
* Teas - Many teas can be used. True tea (white, green or black) does have some acid in it, as well as tannins. To much acid or tannins can contribute to dryness in hair. Herbal teas (chamomile, rooibos, etc) may be used in the mix, but tend not to be as drying as true tea.
* Scents - Some people dislike the scent of henna mixes. If you choose to add something to alter the scent, please use an Essential Oil, or a quality scented oil like BPAL. Fragrance oils, such as those used to scent homes, often contain skin irritants.
* Terps* - Terps are an abbreviation for aromatherapy grade essential oils with high levels of monoterpene alcohols. When combined with henna and used on skin they help to provide a darker, longer-lasting stain. Common terping oils are lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus, cajeput, and ravensara. Of these, lavender is the most gentle and least likely to cause scalp irritation. The jury is out on how much terping affects henna when applied to hair. Relevant links: Terps, Using Terps in Your Henna Paste for Body Art & Hair
* Conditioner, Yogurt and Honey - There are endless possibilities for henna mixes, and people have used all these with success.

Actually Mixing the Mix:
Put the powder components in the bowl, and slowly add the liquid. Mixing tools can be spoons, whisks, or an electric hand mixer. You want as few lumps as possible, and should aim for something the consistency of pancake batter. Too thin and it will run off your head, too thick and you will have a heck of a time getting it into your hair. Any sort of material can be used to mix the henna, including metal. While using a metal spoon or whisk is okay, henna should me mixed in a ceramic or glass bowl, as exposing henna to metal (specifically iron) for a long period of time may effect the color.

 

[flowinlocks]

This lovely picture by Iris illustrates this well. Note that all of these pictures were taken within two days, the only variable was the light her hair was in.

Top row, left to right:
Incandescent light (regular light bulb, halogen light in the evening, daylight in the North room far away from the window, daylight right next to the North window, daylight in the South room rather close to the window.

Bottom row, left to right:
Unknown, daylight at some distance from the North window, in the sunshine shining through the South window, incandescent light, unknown.


Where do other henna colors come from?
Go to any local health food store and you�ll see boxes and boxes of �natural� hair coloring products claiming to be 100% henna. Well, we know that henna only comes in red, so what gives with all the shades of brown and blonde and black? Many natural hair colors are a blend of henna, cassia, indigo, and other color enhancing herbs. Beware, though. Many �henna dyes� contain things other than herbs. See the section on The Dangers of Poor Quality Henna.


What is Neutral Henna (Cassia Obovata)?
Cassia Obovata is often referred to as �neutral henna.� It is not henna and it does not alter the color of hair greatly, though it may give more golden tones with repeated applications. It has similar conditioning benefits as henna, but they are not permanent, and they disappear without reapplication.

Relevant Links:Cassia Makes Blonde Hair More Golden

What is Black Henna (Indigofera tinctoria)?
Indigo is commonly referred to as black henna. It does not produce a black dye, but instead produced a blue (indigo) dye. Indigo releases its dye immediately and it demises VERY fast. If using indigo in a mix, start by preparing the henna and allowing dye release. Then prepare the indigo and immediately mix it with the henna and apply it to the hair. Indigo dye does not last long, and demises quickly. For a two step application (see the Sample Mixes section for details) indigo is applied after henna has been rinsed from the hair. Be warned that on some people the indigo will fade to varying degrees, leaving the henna to show through. If you are not comfortable with some red be wary of using indigo and henna to achieve brown or black.

Warning: Some people will sell �black henna� which may or not contain henna, but contains lots of a chemical called PPD. PPD has been known to have horrible reactions to some people�s skin.

Relevant links: PPD Warnings and Reactions by Catherine

Getting Quality Henna
Quality is important when selecting henna. To get the highest dye content you want to get BAQ (Body Art Quality) henna. BAQ means that the henna is finely ground and has been sifted to remove chunks of leaves and stems. The finer the henna, the easier it is to rinse. You can get henna from several locations, but the best will always be through a reputable supplier. These may be online or local stores. These people check the henna they sell for quality, meaning that the only thing being sold is fresh, pure henna. Some reputable Henna suppliers include:

* Henna Sooq (LHC member, Canadian supplier, ships to US)
* Henna for Hair by Catherine (US supplier)
* Henna Boy (UK supplier)
* EveryDay Mehndi (US supplier)
* Renaissance Henna (UK supplier, ships worldwide)
* Other online suppliers

There are multiple types of henna including Yemeni, Jamila, Prabada and others. Though these give a range of stains, they all do stain red. The most common types are listed here, although there are others out there. Remember that the fresher the henna, the better. You can source henna locally, sometimes from Indian stores, but you have no way of knowing how long the henna has been on the shelf and how well it has (or has not) been stored. There is also no guarantee of it's purity, so put it through a few tests and be sure to strand test before even considering applying it to your head.

Included below are also the times at which the crops for various hennas are harvested and what some of these powders from different suppliers look like.

 

[flowinlocks]

Before you Henna
Don�t skip this section. You want to henna, you�re excited, but read this section and make sure you�ve considered everything.

Do You Want to Henna?
So� here you are. You�ve heard about the wonder drug for hair, henna. Makes your hair smoother, shinier, stronger and can be mixed to produce several different shades of color. Sounds like the best thing in the world right? Before you jump on the henna bandwagon slow down and do some investigation. First, be forewarned that henna is permanent. There are some removal methods (discussed later on), but most of those are limited in success. Most people that henna and later decide that they do not like the color or how it makes their hair feel either bleach their hair into oblivion, grow it out two-toned, or cut it to remove it. Proceed with caution and remember that an informed decision is the best one. Always be sure to do an allergy test when using any herb or plant on your hair. To do an allergy test mix your henna up with warm water and place on the inside of your arm. Cover and allow to sit for 24 hours. If there is no reaction, proceed. Though allergic reactions to henna are rare, they can and do occur.


Can I Henna over My Dyed/Permed/Straightened/Chemically Treated Hair? What about Chemical Treatments After Henna?
Yes, IF you get the right henna, and you�re careful. If you use Body Art Quality (meaning 100% pure henna) you SHOULD be okay. The rule of thumb is to wait 3 months after your last chemical treatment before hennaing. Some have done it sooner without poor results. Assuming you use good henna (see below for a discussion on buying quality henna) you always, always, ALWAYS want to strand test. Poor quality henna can react with chemical treatments to produce green or black hair. Before hennaing, or before applying any sort of treatment over hennaed hair, strand test. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Relevant Threads: Do I need to wait before using henna?,


What is Henna (Lawsonia Inermis)?
There is only one true henna plant, Lawsonia inermis. Lawsonia alba and Lawsonia spinoza are misleading older names for Lawsonia Inermis. When henna is a small and immature plant, it has low dye content and is spineless; when mature, it develops spines and higher dye content. Henna plants undergo this change when they are 3 years old. When western botanists saw juvenile and mature henna plants, they thought they were seeing two species, and gave them different botanical names. Source. The dye inside this plant produces a red/brown stain on skin and various hues of red on hair. Henna cannt lighten your hair, ever. On some colors of hair it may appear to brighten it, but you should count on any color you get with henna being darker than what is already on your head.

Pros, Cons & Other Effects of Henna
Henna has some undeniable benefits for hair, which is why so many people use it and love it. Some of these pros include:

* Stronger Hair - The lawsone (dye) molecule goes into the hair it penetrates the hair shaft some, binding with the keratin in the hair. This makes hair stronger, but also is one of the qualities that makes henna removal near impossible. Henna also coats the hair and fills in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength, but it DOES NOT lock out moisture.
* Smoother, Shinier Hair - Henna, as stated above, does coat the hair, but it is a permeable coating that does not lock moisture out. The henna helps fill in rough spots on the cuticle. With the cuticle rough edges smoothed over the hair feels smoother and the cuticle takes a lot less damage during combing and manipulation. It takes several days for Henna to stabilize. It becomes more flexible and durable as it oxidizes and cures--it is in fact a plant resin that is flexible and solvent enough to penetrate the hair at the cuticle, carrying pigment with it.
* Non-Fading Red - Anyone that has used red chemicals dyes knows how badly they fade. Henna may fade a little after the first application, but after the second application fades very little.
* The Absence of Chemicals - Chemical dyes are not only VERY damaging to hair, they can also cause scalp burns, allergic reactions, and recently studies have linked long term use to cancer.

While there are benefits, there are also some drawbacks:

* Ease (or lack thereof) of Application - Henna can be hard to apply evenly on your own, can be a huge mess, and is tiring on the arms and neck. It also has to be left on for a longer time than commercial chemical dyes, so more time has to be slated for the process.
* Experimentation - To find your ideal mix, dye release time, application time, rinsing method, etc. all require some experimentation. It is not out-of-a-box color, and it make take some tweaking to find your ideal results. Your perfect color is never a guarantee. You can see the complete LHC Henna/Indigo/Other Herbs Experimentation Thread here.
* Dry Hair - Some people report dry hair after using henna. See the Troubleshooting Section for information on what may be causing this, and how to combat it.

These may be pros for some, cons for others:

* Loss/Reduction in Curl - Many users of henna report a loss of curl. This is by no means a universal effect, and should be neither discounted, nor counted on. It seems that wavies are the most susceptible to this, though some curlies are as well. See the Henna Texture Poll for the exact numbers or vote to add your own results!
* Cannot Lighten Hair - Henna cannot lighten your hair, ever. On some colors of hair it may appear to brighten it, but you should count on any color you get with henna being darker than what is already on your head.
* Darkening with Multiple Applications - Henna will darken with multiple applications. If one wants to keep a lighter color, only the roots should be touched up, and repeated whole-head applications will progressively make the color less orange and more burgundy. Check out this thread for techniques for Henna Root Applications.
* Cost - Depending on your mix, how much hair you have and how often you henna, it may either be more or less expensive than chemical dyes. Though that doesn�t factor in one very important thing� the price your hair pays on chemical dyes. Many people find that they only need to do a full-length application one or two times, and the because henna doesn't fade much, they can save a lot of cost by only redoing the roots.
* The Smell - Some people love it, some people hate it, but the smell of henna lingers in your hair for awhile after the application, often reviving when your hair is wet. Some herbs, such as ginger, can be added to shift the smell of the mix, but nothing will eliminate it entirely. Most people feel it has a smell somewhat like grass or hay. See the Poll Do You Love or Hate the Smell of Henna? for more specific responses.
* Variable Color - Henna can and does shift in color depending on the light the hennaed hair is placed in. The same head of hair can go from burgendy to firey copper, just depending on the light.

 

[Nasdaq_Diva]

flowinlocks,

Awesome work on henna!

 

[Ltown]

Flowin, thanks for posting the henna. I did henna last year it gave me too much red but the downside was my temple grays don't need them orange. I have been using bigen to cover them but I don't like dark hair so now I need to lighten them. I read lemon/peroxide might work, bigen is strong dry to lighten.

 

[Nameless]

Is there a powder/water mixture I can use as a clarifying shampoo once a month?

 

[Nasdaq_Diva]

Is there a powder/water mixture I can use as a clarifying shampoo once a month?

I personally like to use aritha as a cleanser a couple times a month. It gets my hair very clean. As something 'clarifying' have you thought about bentonite clay?

 

[Nameless]

flowinlocks Sorry to be a pain in the butt with all these questions but I couldn't find Brahmi to add to my mixture. I wanted Brahmi because I read that it's quite moisturising. What powder could I use instead?

 

[Nameless]

I personally like to use aritha as a cleanser a couple times a month. It gets my hair very clean. As something 'clarifying' have you thought about bentonite clay?

I've never tried it. I normally use a clarifying shampoo and I'm new to this no poo thing. I might just stick to a clarifying shampoo but use it every 2 months and I'll use the aritha as a cleanser once a month.

 

[flowinlocks]

Is there a powder/water mixture I can use as a clarifying shampoo once a month?

I use Shikakai and Amla. Use double the Amla vs the Shikakai. Even then I still mix it with cond. or as a tea and use on dry peroiled hair. I can't tolerate Aritha at all it's like putting soap powder in my hair. If you decide to use it. proceed with caution. This powder is very strong.

 

[flowinlocks]

flowinlocks Sorry to be a pain in the butt with all these questions but I couldn't find Brahmi to add to my mixture. I wanted Brahmi because I read that it's quite moisturising. What powder could I use instead?

Maka/Bhringraj.

 

[iri9109]

i wanna incorporate ayurvedic herbs/powders/oils etc into my regi soon...sometimes i use now is vatika oil...it leaves my hair soooo soft...but the smell leaves much to be desired...do all ayurvedic products smell bad?

 

[Nasdaq_Diva]

i wanna incorporate ayurvedic herbs/powders/oils etc into my regi soon...sometimes i use now is vatika oil...it leaves my hair soooo soft...but the smell leaves much to be desired...do all ayurvedic products smell bad?

I don't know how Vatika oil smells, but for me all of the oils I've used I tend to like. They smell 'green' or shall I say 'earthy' When I make my own oil infusions, the oils tend to smell not as strong as the commercial brands though. HTH

 

[flowinlocks]

i wanna incorporate ayurvedic herbs/powders/oils etc into my regi soon...sometimes i use now is vatika oil...it leaves my hair soooo soft...but the smell leaves much to be desired...do all ayurvedic products smell bad?

Lol!! Actually Vatika is one of the nicer smelling oils. Due to the lemon. I will say the other oils are earthy like Nasdaq_ Diva stated. To some people thay stink. I don't find them offensive. However thay are bit strong for everyday use in public. The best way to combat this is to use them as prepoos before a cowash or a paste or tea rinse.

 

[Nameless]

Ok, I've decided that I'll use my Ayurveda mix as a shampoo and then DC etc every week but once a month I'll clarify, then use my Keracare shampoo, my Joico protein and then DC etc (no Ayurveda that week).

As for adding conditioner to my powder, I won't do that because I cowashed once and my scalp itched like crazy. Cowashing isn't for me.

 

[chebaby]

ok im finished mixing my henna for today. i used jamila henna mixed with water, evoo, amla, and i will add honey when im ready to use. i will leave it on for 2-3 hours.

im going to shampoo before hand with aphogee shampoo for damagedhair if i have some left. if not i will clarify with curls shampoo.

 

[Nameless]

Managed to find my Brahmi in the shop. So I'll wash my hair tomorrow

 

[flowinlocks]

Hey guys, just poppin to to touch base with everyone. If you haven't seen me much lately I'm getting soooo frustrated coming here because the pages are loading slow. When I try to get on the site it keeps tmiming out. I have left several times for this reason. Yesterday I tried for oven an hour to get in before I finally gave up.