I was reading Sophisticate's Black Hair at the salon yesterday...

[northernbelle]

...and came across an article by a leading NYC stylist, whose name I cannot recall, unfortunately. The article appears in the March/April 2005 edition.

Anyway, the stylist was commenting on the use of excessive heat to style Black hair, and referenced different types of hair, i.e. dry, chemically processed, and natural. It was his belief that those of us with chemically processed, i.e. relaxed, hair should not air-dry, for air-drying relaxed hair swells and lifts the cuticle, and leaves it wide open for attracting germs, dryness, and damage. He compared the process of air drying relaxed hair to leaving one's front door wide open so as to allow anyone to enter. He concluded that it's not the use of heat which is the enemy, but rather the degree and the extent to which we use heat.

The stylist did state that the more heat one uses, the more frequent the washes and deep conditioning treatments with quality moisturizing products. The use of leave-in protectants is also a must.

This actually makes sense to me. I must say while my hair has benefitted from air-drying to a certain extent, I find that my hair is smoother and more manageable when I apply heat, and thus breaks less. Additionally, I believe that it depends greatly on what type of hair one has naturally, i.e. is it truly 4B, for example, as mine is, or a mix of other hair grades? Certain grades of hair simply are not candidates for air-drying.

My stylist, following a relaxer touch up or a deep conditioning treatment, usually applies a leave-in, combs out, and places me under the hood dryer for about 20 minutes under "warm" heat. She then uses a blow dryer with nozzle on "warm" heat, and a paddle brush, and finishes the drying process. She applies a spray oil sheen, and then smooths the hair with a warm flat iron. When finished, she applies a bit more leave-in. Her products of choice are Paul Mitchell Super Skinny, and Sexy Hair Concepts Smooth, Sexy Hair. My hair has not suffered from this practice. I think, however, the key for me is maintaining the moisture level in my hair, with periodic infusion of protein.

Again, don't take my word for it. Get yourself a copy of the March/April Sophisticate's Black Hair, and read for yourself.
Any comments?

northernbelle

 

[karezone]

I agree. I washed and deep conditioned my hair every 2-3 days for at least 2 years. Used heat daily and my hair was long, thick and pretty. When I airdried I had the most breakage and it was dull and frizzy.

I don' think that using an iron that is hot enough to pucker the skin everyday is advisable but using a moderate amount of heat and quality products that are appropriate to your hair=great hair

 

[Poohbear]

Hey! I read this in that magazine too last week and mentioned it in another thread.

 

[northernbelle]

Hey! I read this in that magazine too last week and mentioned it in another thread.

And, so...what are your thoughts? Would you bump your comments?

northernbelle

 

[felicia]

i think it makes sense too. i'm going to go back to blowdrying once a week or rollersettig.

 

[Poohbear]

And, so...what are your thoughts? Would you bump your comments?

northernbelle

Oh sorry... my thoughts? I think what the magazine said is true. I never airdried my relaxed hair before I joined this forum and my hair did fine with heat. I used the blowdryer to dry my hair once a month which isn't excessive heat. In 2004, when I started airdrying my relaxed hair loose, my hair would be all dry and frizzy. I can only airdry in rollers in order for my hair to look nice.

I found what I posted in a rollersetting thread. It was just a lil bit of what the magazine article was talking about:

I think the breakage came from airdrying your hair loose. Did you moisturize your hair or ever seal your cuticles (with like serum or oil) when airdrying because when you airdry loose, you are leaving the cuticles open. Even though you're not using heat, drying your hair in just plain air can be damaging too. When cuticles are left open, they are prone to break and will lead to dry brittle hair if you continue to do so. Also, particles and bacteria can get into your cuticles when left open. It's good that you are now starting to airdry in rollers. Also, twists and braids are good ways to airdry. (I read this in an article yesterday about heat usage vs. airdrying).
And as long as you are not rough with your hair, you should not get breakage from rollersetting.

 

[northernbelle]

Oh sorry... my thoughts? I think what the magazine said is true. I never airdried my relaxed hair before I joined this forum and my hair did fine with heat. I used the blowdryer to dry my hair once a month which isn't excessive heat. In 2004, when I started airdrying my relaxed hair loose, my hair would be all dry and frizzy. I can only airdry in rollers in order for my hair to look nice.

I found what I posted in a rollersetting thread. It was just a lil bit of what the magazine article was talking about:

Thank you, Poohbear!

northernbelle

 

[sylver2]

I know my hair HATES AirDrying..lol First of all it never truly dries 100%. 2nd..It goes crazy, gets stiff, dry, no matter what I put.
I always apply some heat from hood dryer but don't stay under long.

 

[OnlyErin]

My stylist, following a relaxer touch up or a deep conditioning treatment, usually applies a leave-in, combs out, and places me under the hood dryer for about 20 minutes under "warm" heat. She then uses a blow dryer with nozzle on "warm" heat, and a paddle brush, and finishes the drying process. She applies a spray oil sheen, and then smooths the hair with a warm flat iron. When finished, she applies a bit more leave-in.

Northernbelle,

This is a great example of how different techniques work for different people. My first hairdresser in Miami had this exact same technique, down to the use of serum (Super Skinny wasn't out at the time. I think he used Aveda), and my hair broke off from shoulder length to ear length. He said that by "pre-drying" my hair under a hood dryer, there would be less stress on it than if he blew it out sopping wet. That sounded good to me in theory, but it took my hair out. It wasn't until I cut and started over and then went to wet-setting that my hair started to thrive. I am glad, though, to hear that this technique can work, because it did seem like a good idea.

As for the article, I notice that my hair does seem "crispy" if I airdry without a good smoothing serum. Nioxin Silk Elixir is the best I have ever tried and my hair feels good and strong when I use it. I do notice, though, that when I get my hair blown out at the salon, it breaks less than when I airdry at home. Then again, I also notice that my hair feels sooo thin and stringy when it's blown out, so I'm trying to find a good balance of using heat and perfecting my airdrying technique.


OE

 

[Poohbear]

I was even thinking about getting the magazine just to post the article on here. I didn't buy the magazine but I wish I was allowed to make a copy for myself. I think the article was really helpful as far as understanding heat usage. When people say excessive heat, it actually mean using heat almost everyday or more than once a week and using extremely high temperatures.

 

[Faith]

I find that my hair is smoother and more manageable when I apply heat, and thus breaks less.

I have been noticing that my roots and my hair in general are more unmanageable and frizzy when I airdry. I'm not crazy about flatironing but I'm going to start rollersetting. I get less breakage for sure when I rollerset.

 

[LABETT]

I have discovered that my hair does not like to be airdried frequently when doing daily co washes I blowdry my hair twice a week sometimes or rollerset.

 

[Tene]

My hair comes out nice and soft when I airdry, I can't sit up under a dryer or blowdry my hair. My hair would be poofy and dried out looking.

 

[Hair2day]

I have 4a hair and airdrying is a nono for me. My hair becomes brittke and the ends are always frizzy,crispy and dry. I perfer to sit under the hooded dryer.

 

[Porsche19]

What I don't understand is how airdrying can be looked at as better for anyone's hair than airdrying.

Appling heat to hair is not just not good for it. Not saying that you can't have healthy hair or good results using it, but it certainly is not the best option for fragile hair.

Airdrying does nothing to the hair, it just dries naturally, while added heat breaks bonds in the hair and raises the cuticles... especially direct heat.

Needless to say, I don't agree with the article. How does air drying swell the hair and lift the cuticle? Are they saying that AIR damages hair? Doesn't make sense to me... explanations, please?

 

[Chaya]

My hair does not appreciate airdrying UNLESS it is in braids or in rollers and even then my rollerset looks much better when I sit underneath the dryer. My hair is so dry looking when I airdry. My hair has thrived with rollersets above all. For years i had been blowdrying my hair or wet wrapping and curling my hair. My hair gradually got shorter and shorter and dryer. ONly when I began rollersetting my hair under a dryer has it grown and become much healthier. Air drying in braids helped my hair to thrive as a child. Unfortunately I just cannot braid like my mother could!

 

[tryn2growmyhair]

I am at a loss because since I stopped rollersetting my hair has grown several inches, but it is was always dry and crispy when I airdried it loose. I airdried it with rollers the other day and it is behaving much better but still does not feel as healthy as it did when I was getting dominican rollersets or rollersetting and sitting under the dry myself. However, my hair was much shorter when I was going under the dryer? I am wondering if the other things that I am doing have helped my hair to grow?

Also, I need to wash my hair twice a week because I work out 5-6 days a week and I do full on hard cardio so I sweat a lot.

What should I do? This has been a major obstacle to my beginning a regime. TIA for your help on an important issue for me.

 

[sylver2]

I have 4a hair and airdrying is a nono for me. My hair becomes brittke and the ends are always frizzy,crispy and dry. I perfer to sit under the hooded dryer.

DiTTo!!
I wonder if only certain Hair Type can airdry Successfully.

 

[Dolapo]

Blowdrying and sitting under the dryer makes my ahir brittle and poofy looking. Airdrying is the only thing that works for me

 

[northernbelle]

DiTTo!!
I wonder if only certain Hair Type can airdry Successfully.

Well, this is one of the points I make in my original post on the topic in question. Natural hair, like my father's, who I believe is a 3A, and my brother's, who is a 4A, air dries beautifully. As the article states, the key is airdrying hair which has been chemically processed. In addition, I believe that one has to consider their grade of hair to determine if she is a candidate for air drying. Mind you, the article said nothing about hair grade/type. This was my notation.

northernbelle

 

[championgurl]

It's so timely that you mention this. I have been trying to put my finger on what could be making my hair so unruly and disobedient when I airdry. After quite a bit of trial & error, and by process of elimimination I found that the airdrying is indeed a major contribution to my breakage (when I have it). I've also found that when I do airdry, I MUST, MUST apply some kind of serum to my ends while still wet..... Other wise my ends just swell and kick up. Mind you, I do think that hairtype has lots to do with this..... Anyhoo, for me, I can still airdry; just need loads of serum in order to do this..... I recommended this "serum" trick to my girlfriend, and she finds that it helps alot too. (she airdries also). She also mentioned to me that SCurl REALLY helps her with this too. She puts it on her ends when still wet, and is not stingy when putting it on. So for those who still want to airdry, HTH! Let me know how it works for you....

 

[scoobygirl]

I've read in a book recently about air drying being unhealthy for relaxed hair. My sisters and I all have 4a/b relaxed hair but we all respond differently to air drying. My sisters have super thick, strong, shoulder length hair that gets very dry, frizzy, and breaks when air drying. But responds well to a comb attachment dryer and flat irons.

My hair is not as thick and mid back length and will dry relatively straight but not shiny smooth by air drying. If I use a hand held dryer (without the comb) I can get it straighter and shiner but it feels drier. I don't like using flat irons at all because they make my hair look thinner, even though it feels smoother.

 

[sylver2]

Well, this is one of the points I make in my original post on the topic in question. Natural hair, like my father's, who I believe is a 3A, and my brother's, who is a 4A, air dries beautifully. As the article states, the key is airdrying hair which has been chemically processed. In addition, I believe that one has to consider their grade of hair to determine if she is a candidate for air drying. Mind you, the article said nothing about hair grade/type. This was my notation.

northernbelle

Okay dokey, let me check that post out, sounds good.

 

[sylver2]

I've read in a book recently about air drying being unhealthy for relaxed hair. My sisters and I all have 4a/b relaxed hair but we all respond differently to air drying. My sisters have super thick, strong, shoulder length hair that gets very dry, frizzy, and breaks when air drying. But responds well to a comb attachment dryer and flat irons.

Yup, my hair loves comb attached dryers.

 

[HairQueen]

I do not agree with the article sorry! I do not see how airdrying can be bad for your hair.

Heat = dry hair / dry hair = split ends / split ends = more trims / more trims = shorter hair!

Furthermore, sitting under a dryer actually opens the cuticle which is why we are told sit under a dryer / steamer when we deep condition so that the conditioner goes into the hair better. To close the cuticle after washing, I learned that you are supposed ro rinse the conditioner from your hair with COLD / COOL water.

I will continue to airdry as my hair as I find it is far more moisturised this way. I think adding serum to the ends would help if you are ponytail drying but with rollersets my ends come out smooth anyway.

I think that when our ends go frizzy it is not open cuticles but rather our hair reverting back to its natural state. I could be wrong but just because our hair is relaxed it does not mean that our hair will look dead straight at all times - it is naturaly curly after all!

 

[tryn2growmyhair]

Perhaps a compromise is to dry under a bonnet using the cool setting?

 

[amy1234]

my hair gets extremely dry whenever I air dry , this results in more breakage for me. I always use some kind of heat.

 

[UmSumayyah]

Perhaps a compromise is to dry under a bonnet using the cool setting?

That is what I was going to suggest. Or perhaps you could braid towel-dried hair in two french braids and take it out when dry.

 

[taraglam2]

Air drying does not work for me unless I want an AFRO. I remember when me and my hubby were dating and I washed my hair and let it air dry--- He could not believe the volume of hair. He was like "Where did all that hair come from?" I have had many attempts at air drying but my hair hates it.

 

[Porsche19]

Bleh, I just don't understand. I'm not one who can ignore logic/science. If heat is bad for your hair, it's bad. Even if you get good results from it.

btw, I have texturized/relaxed 3C/4A hair and I find that airdying leaves me with moisturizd hair and using heat leaves me with drier (not DRY) hair.

Maybe it's more managalble because you get straigher, softer hair with heat.