# Hair Breakage 101-- just wanted to share!



## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

*As we all know, breakage, growth and hair health go hand in hand-- because with breakage, health and  growth potential are greatly reduced.

I've shared this info on the Ezboard site I frequent (and some others), and I've decided to share a bit of what I've been writing with you all too. Some of you will recognize alot of this because I've been saving many of the posts I've done on various boards.   Please excuse the millions of typos as well-- I haven't had the chance to go through and truncate the repetition or correct for spelling. Forgive me ahead of time, it is still a work in progress and this is only an excerpt.

I believe this information will help the newbies, and the vets sort out their breakage issues and give them some useful background information so that they can get a better sense of the direction they should aiming product and technique wise. Ladies, feel free to add to this thread. We want to share and provide each other with as much information as possible.* 

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*Breakage and Shedding​*
Understanding the difference between breakage and shedding is an important part of any healthy hair regimen. Many people use these terms interchangeably to refer to any hair that falls from the head. In its truest sense, shed hair is hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle and naturally falls from the scalp along with its root attached. The root is a tiny white bulb on the scalp originating end. If a hair does not possess this white bulb, then it is not a naturally shed hair, rather, a broken one. Shed hair tends to be longer in length than broken hairs which are generally short pieces of varying lengths. If you have stretched your relaxer for a great number of weeks, your shed hair will have the curly new growth present on the area next to the bulb, and you will be able to see where the relaxed hair begins. Some find that garlic shampoos or products with garlic extracts help curb shedding. But remember, shedding is a natural, internal process and may not respond to topical, external treatments. So don't be alarmed if nothing works for you. Changes in diet, hormone imbalances, birth control pills, and pregnancy can also affect the rate at which hair is shed.

Breakage on the other hand is not natural, and is an indication of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand. Broken hairs do not fall naturally from the head, but are typically a sign of mishandling or abuse. The proper treatments, will help stop breakage in its tracks.


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*Protein and Moisture*​
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Scenario 1: Kim's hair is breaking like crazy and feels like a brillo pad. Every time she touches it, pieces seem to just pop right off. Snap, crackle, pop. Combing is impossible without tons of little hairs covering her sink and back. Her hair feels hard and rough even when wet. She's given it protein treatments because the product says its supposed to stop breakage in its tracks and rebuild the hair, but so far nothing is working and her problem is getting worse. _

_Scenario 2: Trina's hair is breaking like crazy as well. Her hair feels dry, looks dull, and is very weak. Her hair is too weak to withstand simple combing. It feels extra stretchy when wet and almost follows the comb as she pulls through to detangle. She has deep conditioned and done hot oil treatments on her hair once a week. Since her breakage began, she?s stepped up the conditioning but her problem has gotten worse. _

Both of these women have issues with breakage, but the solutions to their individual problems require two very different approaches. Before you go shopping for your hair care product arsenal, you must understand the difference between protein and moisture and what they mean for your hair. Protein and moisture are the key cornerstones of great hair care. Maintaining a proper balance between these two entities is critical for the healthiest hair growth possible. The two scenarios above perfectly illustrate what happens when the balance between protein and moisture is tipped too far in either direction. This section will teach you to effectively recognize the difference between protein based and moisture based problems and help you can organize your hair regimen to effectively combat these issues as the arise. 

*
Protein*

Protein is what gives the hair its strength and structure. Hair is about 70% keratin protein by nature. Protein is found most prevalently in products like instant conditioners (bargain brands like Suave and V05), leave in conditioners, protein conditioner treatments, and even some moisturizers. 


*Moisturizers*

Moisturizers are products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Water is the ultimate moisturizer so waterbased products are best for really getting the best moisture benefit. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be your conditioners and other water-based products. Moisturizers may also be protein-based, but these protein based moisturizers do not have the moisturizing benefit that moisture-based moisturizers have. Good moisturizers will not contain ingredients like petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. These are cheap product fillers. Be wary of products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants and have the potential to suffocate the hair and scalp and seal out the moisture it needs. 

_*Sealing in your Moisturizers:*_
Our hair naturally contains moisture, but because our hair is also naturally porous, keeping the moisture inside is a difficult task. Sources of outside moisture, or external moisture supplementation, are a must for black hair. Water molecules and moisture from these supplemental moisturizing products easily pass into the hair shaft, but they pass out just as easily. The moisture you apply needs to held in by something. Oil. 
A light coating of oil on top will help seal the moisture inside. Oils are made of large molecules. These molecules are too large to absorbed by the hair strand. Applying oils to the hair and scalp will coat them and trap moisture that is inside on the inside and moisture that is outside on the outside. The key is to lock in the moisture within the strands with your oil. If you use oils without a moisturizer or before one, the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to eventual dryness. This technique of moisturizing and sealing has really been helpful to me and is a resonating hallmark of my regimen. Moisturizing success is all in the order in which you apply your products.

_*REMEMBER! Oils DO NOT Moisturize. *_
Perhaps a words like "nourish" would be better than moisturize. If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me to recommend a good oil that moisturizes, I would be rich! Oil alone will not and cannot moisturize within the hair shaft. An oil can only coat the outside of the strand, and give it shine- the illusion of moisture. Again, the molecules that make oil are much too large to penetrate through all of the cuticle layers.  The cuticle layers can be as few as 6 layers or many as 15 or more layers thick. Oil molecules are _hydro-phobic_ which means they repel and do not readily mix with water. Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturizing product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate. 

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*When the Balance Tips, You Must Wet Assess​*
Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. Hair is not exempt from this old adage. Growing out your hair is a constant battle between maintaining an even protein and moisture balance. Breakage is the result of the hair chemistry being thrown off balance.  Remember Kim and Trina from the beginning of the section? Hair that is shifted too far on either side of the balance (too much protein or too much moisture) will break. 



*The Importance of Wet Assessment​*
Though health assessments can be performed on dry hair, determining your cause of breakage is often easiest on wet hair. Hair in its wet state exudes the basic properties of hair---elasticity and strength, excellently. In fact, these qualities are often exaggerated on wet hair. Thorough and frequent wet assessments will help you maintain your hair's health and condition. 

Hair in its optimal condition will not break when wet unless undue stress is placed upon it through aggressive combing or detangling. A balanced and healthy hair strand will stretch and break only under undue, or unusual types of pulling stress. Balanced hair will feel soft and supple, yet strong while wet. When you comb through it when wet, it should resist excess stretching and will hardly break if you are careful. Over time, and with trial and error, you will be able to tell what is normal stress for your hair.
If your hair does indeed break when wet, the way the hair breaks under these conditions will give you a sure indication of whether more moisture or protein is required to regain the proper balance.  --continues--


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## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

*How Do I Perform a Proper Wet Assessment?​*​
It will be difficult for you to wet assess your hair by holding a single strand and pulling on both ends. That type of stress would be considered "undue" stress, because no single hair is ever really subjected to that sort of tension at one time. Any strand of hair (healthy or not) that you pull on by both ends has the potential to snap depending on the pressure you apply to it. Hair should be wet assessed by the normal act of combing though it or touching-testing it. 


*Wet Assessment Break Down​*​

*If your hair: * 


(Wet or Dry) Stretches slighty/returns to original length /no breaking= you are balanced just stick with maintaining!

(Wet ot Dry) Stretching a little more than normal then breaks= more protein 

(Wet or Dry)Stretching, stretching, stretching/no breakage yet= more protein

(Wet)- Weak, gummy, mushy, limp hair= more protein

(Wet or Dry) Very little/no stretching then breakage= more moisture

(Dry) Rough/tough/hard/tangly/brittle hair= more moisture


Unsure= err on the side of moisture


For those of you just starting out on your journey to healthier head of hair, I recommend you begin with a more moisture friendly regimen before you incorporate the protein aspect. The reason being, many of us (before our hair care awakening) have naturally moisture deficient hair care routines and regimens- especially those with no regimen at all. Rarely have I seen a woman have hair problems that are a result of over-conditioning her hair and too much moisture. I can guarantee you that almost 99% of the time, poor moisturizing and conditioning are the issues that spawn our hair care interventions.


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*When the Balance is thrown off by too much protein:​*​

Hair that is shifted too far on the protein side will break easier, both wet and dry, because it lacks elasticity. Hair that breaks with very little tension or stretching is moisture deficient. Any type of stretching or tension will break it because the protein goes in and adds structure to the hair. Too much structure will make the hair rigid, decrease its elasticity, leave it brittle and prone to breakage. This was the issue with Kim's hair. She was feeding her hair more protein than she needed to maintain a healthy balance. If this describes your hair at any time listen up! To correct this imbalance, you will need to go into a simple deep conditioning and moisturizing regimen. You may not be doing "protein treatments" per se, but you may be using other products that are protein heavy ingredient wise. I would watch out for protein in common products like leave in conditioners, moisturizers,gels, and instant conditioners like Suave and V05. Protein hides in alot of everyday products- so avoid those for a few weeks until your moisture balance is corrected. This will give your hair a chance to even out the protein/moisture balance.

*Should I schedule my protein treatments in advance?*
I do not advise "protein-ing" on a specific schedule, simply because our hair is seasonal. Setting aside a week or two in your regimen for protein conditioning is just not effective at addressing your hair needs as they arise. It doesn't know or understand our "schedules." Its needs and wants change from day to day, week to week. The only product you must adhere to a schedule is the Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair because it can only be used every 6 weeks or so because of its strength. The other treatments in between that one should only be done as you need them. Sometimes that might be weekly, other times it may be every 2 or 3 weeks! Only your hair can dictate that to you. I'm sure you've seen the threads where I discuss how to tell when your hair needs more protein- or when it needs more moisture. There are very specific ways to tell =) Once you get to know your hair more and more, it will be like second nature! Scheduling is good for when you are just starting out and getting into the groove, but you'll soon start to see that your hair often has its own plan for when you need different things for it! Then, scheduling kind of becomes useless in the grand scheme of hair care things. It also prevents you from truly developing an understanding of your own hair because instead of looking for certain cues and signs, you are looking at the calendar. Protein-ing on a schedule can eventually lead to protein overload if you aren't careful! It is so much harder to bounce back from an overload of protein than it is an overload of moisture/conditioning.

*How much is too much? *
I totally agree that relaxed ladies need more protein. If you are relaxed or color treated, those processes have compromised the protein structure of your hair--so you kinda need the supplemental protein. Not everyone needs protein though, some naturals can live without it... 

For the relaxed ladies though, It's like we've all sustained different degrees of "damage" from the relaxing processes. Some people's hair is more protein deficient by nature (from the coloring/relaxing) so they require more to keep the balance in tact. Relaxing and coloring breaks protein bonds so depending on the type and degree of relaxer and level on bond breakage you will need more or less protein than someone else. So you can't say weekly, daily, or monthly protein is too much or too little because we do not know the true condition and specific needs of your hair to start with. At the end of the day, you must experiment and get to know your own head of hair.

Some proteins are stronger than others, but daily or even weekly use of even the milder protein treatments may result in an imbalance between the protein and moisture levels within the hair strands in some people.  Honestly, it's almost too hard to even go by the "types of proteins." You never know the percent composition of these products so though it may have a specific protein down the ingredient list, it might not be as strong as if it were higher on the ingredient list(greater percent composition). The protein in question could be 30% of the product or 0.3%! Who knows! You have to play around with different products to know how strong it is on your hair. You can't really say "Oh this is wheat protein so its gonna very light!" Or "this is animal protein, so its gonna be very heavy." It would be nice if that were true all the time, but because the product percent composition really plays such an important role, label reading can only do so much. For example, every product with keratin isn't going to feel the same way across the board. Just like every product that contains glycerine or water isn't going to feel the same! You must experiment and find your hair tolerance and it will vary from product to product, not necessarily protein to protein.

Another example, some people think Aphogee 2 minute is a mild to tough protein, but my hair tends to laugh at it and feel the exact same after using it. For me, I just experimented using different combinations of products to find out what my hair tolerance is.


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*When the Balance is thrown off by too much moisture:​*​

Yes! There is such a thing as "over-conditioning" the hair and Trina found that out the hard way. Hair that is shifted too far on the moisture side will be "super-elastic" and stretch more because it lacks a sound protein structure. Many ladies describe the feel of over-conditioned/over-moisturized hair as ?"mush-like" or "overly soft" when wet. It almost has a weak, limp spongy feel to it. Protein deficient hair will tend to pull and stretch along with the comb and then break. It will always stretch first then break which is the result of very low supplemental protein in the regimen. When this is the case, you will need some kind of protein to give the hair structure which will make it feel rigid (stronger) again. If your hair is stretching without returning, even if its not breaking you should use a light protein to correct this. When your hair stretches, the strand "thins" and becomes weaker across the cross section. It may not break right then at that very point in time, but stretched out of and beyond its shape, it is compromised and will eventually break at some other point. Your hair should be springing back to position. If it's stretching and stretching without breaking it may be your hair's way of telling you, "Hey, I need a little structure (protein) here! I'm getting waaaay too elastic, but not yet enough to break-- so do something now!" This is where a preventive maintenance protein application would come in. You don't have to wait for breakage to act. Your hair is telling you now! Start light, and work from there. You may not need a heavy treatment just yet. 

And, you don't have to get all of your protein from a "treatment" per se or conditioner either. You can always throw in protein based leave in conditioners like (Infusium23) or waterbased moisturizers like (Cantu's Breakcure/or Elasta QP mango butter) to help you maintain the balance within your regimen. This way you can get a little or a lot without relying on one product. 

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## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

*I'm Balanced- Now What?​*​
Now once your hair is balanced and the breakage has minimized you can try to maintain the balance for as long as you can by interchanging your products. It doesn't have to be on a particular schedule. It is a constant struggle to balance these two. Ladies, I remember when I first started trying to get a growth regimen going- I planned out all my treatments on the calendar. Now, I've found that this method just doesn't work. Sometimes you need more protein, sometimes none at all. Sometimes its more moisture! You have to listen to your hair to know what do when. So you could say, I'll use protein every other week...but what do you do when your hair decides hey! I want to act brittle and dry and break (a sign of too much protein) the week you are due for more protein? Balance is the word! You'll know how to handle it as you gain experience. 
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*WHEW! That was long   And that's only the tip of the iceberg of what I've been cooking up over here. I know its long, but I sincerely hope this helps! If even one person benefits, it will have served its purpose. *


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## atlien11 (Apr 23, 2006)

Great post. Im book marking this one!


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## MonaRae (Apr 23, 2006)

Didn't I tell y'all this girl was good!


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## Lady_Lioness (Apr 23, 2006)

Very Interesting...thanx Sista for taking the time out to post this...I'm bookmarking this as well.


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## gorgeoushair (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks Sista!


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## shawniegee (Apr 23, 2006)

Very informative and thoughtful Sista! Thanks!


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## Je Ne Sais Quoi (Apr 23, 2006)

When is the next installment????!!!!?????  Not trying to be greedy or anything  buuuuuuutttttt, when is it?????


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## IntelligenceisBeautiful (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks sista you are always on point


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## SexySin985 (Apr 23, 2006)

Sistaslick you make me sick with all that pretty long hair. I am so jealous of you!   Okay I was just kidding about the you make me sick part but I am jealous of all that hair... in a good way 

Thanks for the post! I printed this out when I seen it on the Ezboard site and passed it out to 10 of my close friends and family member. AND I have 2 copies for myself and emailed it to my 3 email addresses....... just in case something should happen 

By the way, your children......ADORABLE!

Okay off to go stalk your album...... just kidding again   Okay I was serious about that!


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## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

aww Thanks guys!   I'm not much of a thread starter over here, but I just wanted to share some of what I've been working on with you guys too.  I sincerely hope this helps someone


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## NeeSee (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks for the info.


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## tallygirl (Apr 23, 2006)

Sista, your advice is always right on time.  I've been following your advice, particularly the steps for self-relaxing and others, for a while and my hair is finally thriving.....keep the advice and suggestions coming....Thank you so very much.​


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## VelvetRain (Apr 23, 2006)

This thread should be a sticky!


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## so1913 (Apr 23, 2006)

That's what I'm talking about...this is what makes this board so great!  Thanks for sharing!


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## so1913 (Apr 23, 2006)

michelle3147 said:
			
		

> This thread should be a sticky!




I second this!


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## jasmine26 (Apr 23, 2006)

Quote:
Originally Posted by michelle3147
This thread should be a sticky! 

i agree too, so much great info! i've benefited so much from using oil to seal in moisture! thanks sista!!!!


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## Southernbella. (Apr 23, 2006)

Excellent, excellent information. I'm printing this out right now!


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## faithful (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks for the info! After giving birth to my daughter, it seems like my hair will never get enough moisture.


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## Ronda123 (Apr 23, 2006)

Very informative!!! Thanks for the information Sista!!!


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## alonshaw (Apr 23, 2006)

This is definetly sticky material, Sista your always on point. I have been living by this information since i read it on BBBH.(Laminating printed pages)


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## Mom23 (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks!! Very informative!!

edited to add: informative


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## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

I really appreciate your comments guys.  Thank you all so much!  This information is a very, very rough draft/excerpt from a manuscript I've been doing. I am looking to combine my two main passions--- writing and hair.  I'm planning to cover a myriad of hair topics, but I felt this particular one was one of the more important ones for us--- so I decided to share it with everyone "in the raw" format right now. I guess as a sneak peak sorta  I am working on a much larger, polished (published ) version so you'll hear more about that as I get closer to finishing it up


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## Lady_Lioness (Apr 23, 2006)

alonshaw said:
			
		

> *This is definetly sticky material*, Sista your always on point. I have been living by this information since i read it on BBBH.(Laminating printed pages)


This is exactly what I was just going to say.


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## simplycee (Apr 23, 2006)

Well done, hair twin!  I'm just figuring this out (all over again).  I think this is why my breakage stopped.


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## jrae (Apr 23, 2006)

Sista, thank you for this.  You are so generous to share your knowledge.  

Wishing all the success you deserve on your writing and publishing journey!


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## cocowhite (Apr 23, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> I really appreciate your comments guys.  Thank you all so much!  This information is a very, very rough draft/excerpt from a manuscript I've been doing. I am looking to combine my two main passions--- writing and hair.  I'm planning to cover a myriad of hair topics, but I felt this particular one was one of the more important ones for us--- so I decided to share it with everyone "in the raw" format right now. I guess as a sneak peak sorta  I am working on a much larger, polished (published ) version so you'll hear more about that as I get closer to finishing it up




I'm saying congrats early, keep on doing what your doing you are trully a hair angel and an angel of course...I have this printed out already from BBBH. I have a hair notebook.


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## ONEBLESSEDRN (Apr 23, 2006)

Thank you sooooo much for sharing this information!
You are too kind!


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## hondahoney007 (Apr 23, 2006)

Thanks for the info Sista!


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## Sistaslick (Apr 23, 2006)

no problemo !!!


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## Supergirl (Apr 23, 2006)

This is great sista!

I would like to add that the molecules in jojoba oil and apricot kernel oil are small enough to penetrate the hair!  Both are great moisturizing oils.  But then again, I've heard that jojoba is not really an oil.


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## Blessed24 (Apr 23, 2006)

EXCELLENT info!!!  Thanks Sista.  I will be bookmarking this thread.

Good Luck and many Blessings as you continue on your journey to achieve your goals while still thinking of what others need.  God Bless you!


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## JazzyDez (Apr 24, 2006)

OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH SISTASLICK!! you are wonderful!!

forget the bookmark I'm copy pasting this and keeping a copy on my pc and printing one out!  I love this board!!

And also this was perfect timing for me cause I have been DCing and moisturizing so much that my hair was very soft and mushy while washing tonight and shedding like crazy!  When I was detangaling tonight after washing my hair was shedding and coming out with the comb!! Long peices too!  I'm going to pick up some serious protein tommorow. Thanks again, your knowldge is greatly appreciated


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## Sistaslick (Apr 24, 2006)

Thanks everybody for your kind words


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## Nic_Cali (Apr 24, 2006)

Thank You


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## secretdiamond (Apr 24, 2006)

wow.... I have been out all day, come back and see a new 4-page thread already made into a sticky.....then when I saw sistaslick's name as the thread starter, I said "of course!"

Sistaslick, you have been so wonderful in helping so many with great hair care, and you will most definitely be rewarded for that!  Thank you so much for posting this. I feel like I should email it to all my friends.


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## HoneyDew (Apr 24, 2006)

Supergirl said:
			
		

> This is great sista!
> 
> I would like to add that the molecules in jojoba oil and apricot kernel oil are small enough to penetrate the hair!  Both are great moisturizing oils.  But then again, I've heard that jojoba is not really an oil.



I heard the same about Hemp seed oil, as well.

SS - thanks for the post.  That was great reading!


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## BrickbyBrick (Apr 24, 2006)

Chiming in with everyone else. Thanks, Sista and good luck on your book!


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## nadz (Apr 24, 2006)

Very helpful! Thanks!


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## Keen (Apr 24, 2006)

I know some ladies have raved about ultimate softness after adding oil to their moisturizer. So can I conclude that adding oil to your moisturizer is counter productive? Are you possibly getting less moisture than you need if you add oil? Should the oil be used after the moisturizer or halfway during the process to ensure that the moisturizer have penetrated though the shaft before adding oil?


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## blackbarbie (Apr 24, 2006)

Just adding my 2 cents too!

Thanks so much sista for the great info! You have broken it down to a "t" for us all and it's great info that we will all be able to use at some time or another.

Good look on your writing project and keep us posted so we can be some of the first ones to take advantage of the finished product!!!!


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## nurseN98 (Apr 24, 2006)

OMG, I think I know what my problem is!

Thanks Sistaslick!
*running to do a protein treatment*


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## RabiaElaine (Apr 24, 2006)

Great info Sistaslick...you've already taught me so much and here you go again giving me some more much needed info.

I can't wait to buy your finished book!! Good luck!


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## *ElleB (Apr 24, 2006)

Sistaslick, you need a book deal!


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## EXSQUISIT (Apr 24, 2006)

Great info!  Thanks so much!


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## baglady215 (Apr 24, 2006)

This is great.  Thank you very much!!!


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## Sistaslick (Apr 24, 2006)

Thanks so much ladies  



			
				Keen said:
			
		

> I know some ladies have raved about ultimate softness after adding oil to their moisturizer. So can I conclude that adding oil to your moisturizer is counter productive? Are you possibly getting less moisture than you need if you add oil? Should the oil be used after the moisturizer or halfway during the process to ensure that the moisturizer have penetrated though the shaft before adding oil?



Well in my personal experience, moisturizers work best when they go on the hair first, followed by a light coating of oil.  The same softness can be achieved by the simple moisture layering technique because oils are the main source of the softness.  I think the layering technique is better though, because it really allows the water molecules to penetrate deeper, uninhibited. 

I truly believe that a moisturizer should be applied alone first.  Water molecules are able to penetrate the cuticle layers deeper than oils because of the comparative size of the molecules.  Remember, the cuticle is not one layer thick-- some sources say there are as many as 15 layers to the cuticle in some individuals.  _Essential _oils are special and will penetrate deeper than heavier conventional oils (which typically do not penetrate at all)-- but nothing can beat water at getting deep into the strand.  Water molecules  and essential oils would cross easiest, and conventional oils would be last.  Molecular size matters.  A similar instance occurs with hair coloring.  This is why color rinses do not last as long as permanent colors.  Dye molecules are finer in permanent color formulations and are able to penetrate the shaft on a deeper level.  Rinses will penetrate a few layers, but the bulk of the color still remains on the outermost cuticle layers.  

As far as mixing oils and moisturizers, adding _essential oils_ to your moisturizer will not totally work against your ability to moisturize the hair.  In fact, I sometimes add essential oils to my regular waterbased moisturizers (rosemary and peppermint) and my hair is just doing fine.   I don't add these oils for a moisturizing benefit, but for their aromatic and stimulating effects.  Essential oils are organic volatile compounds that evaporate easily, but because they are made of hydrocarbons—they are nonpolar and do not bind to water.  In nature, moisturization and hydration are characteristics of water.  Oils do not _hydrate _the hair, and therefore cannot "moisturize." They work against moisturization because they are chemically hydrophobic (water repelling)- not hydrophilic (water accepting).  They  will soften and increase the pliability of the outer cuticle layers—but the ability to _moisture_ is a property that is water specific. 
Adding a heavier oil will to your moisturizer will also work against your ability to properly moisturize the hair.  Conventional oils do not evaporate easily and will work better as sealants than essential oils would.   


For moisturizing, I simply the add moisturizer to my hair and allow that to seep in for a minute or two.  Then I apply oil to seal it in and add softness and shine.  Works like a charm.


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## Mestiza (Apr 24, 2006)

Great info, Sistaslick!


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## maryj1584 (Apr 24, 2006)

This is some great info. Thanks for this guide. i need it now bc my hair has been bugging out.


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## dontspeakdefeat (Apr 24, 2006)

Awesome info! Thanks.


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## Ambitious1013 (Apr 24, 2006)

This is GREAT information!  I saw that you posted this information on the other hair board and I refer to it a lot.  Thank you for posting it here!


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## Sweetcoco82 (Apr 24, 2006)

Thank you for posting this wonderful info. I am going to test my hair while wet to see how it is. I haven't use a protein cpndtioner other than AO GPB in i dont know how long.


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## cocoberry10 (Apr 24, 2006)

Thanks for this info sistaslick!  I got hair relaxed like 3 weeks ago, and it had grown a lot, but I'm noticing a lot more breakage than normal in the front.  I may have too much protein in my hair.


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## VelvetRain (Apr 24, 2006)

Yay it's finally a sticky


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## FlowerHair (Apr 25, 2006)

Wow! Thank you for taking the time to write down all of this.


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## Joyful1 (Apr 25, 2006)

Thank you so much.


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## SEMO (Apr 25, 2006)

This is an awesome post. I've learned more about breakage and shedding from this post than I have from some of the hair books I've read (and I haven't even finished reading everything everyone's posted). I've been gleaning a lot of great haircare tips since joining LHCF.

Thanks for taking the time to condense all of this in one place.


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## Plenty (Apr 25, 2006)

Oh this is so kind. Thank you.


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## Sistaslick (Apr 25, 2006)

thank all of you for your kind words!  Just too sweet!   This sincerely inspires me to continue on with entire body of work I'm planning.  Thank you all.


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## senimoni (Apr 25, 2006)

Maybe I'm slow but I don't get how over moisturized hair, which stretchs too much is bad....basically it stretches more than normal hair so if you are detangling it would take more force to break it then regular hair. Or are you speaking over time as opposed to on one occasion?


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## Sistaslick (Apr 25, 2006)

senimoni said:
			
		

> Maybe I'm slow but I don't get how over moisturized hair, which stretchs too much is bad....basically it stretches more than normal hair so if you are detangling it would take more force to break it then regular hair. Or are you speaking over time as opposed to on one occasion?



The proper elasticity, in conjunction with the proper structural properties, are needed allow the hair to resist breakage.  The stretching/elasticity power of the hair in and of itself cannot stave off breakage.  In fact, the extra stretching weakens it.  As the hair is stretched beyond its normal parameters, it compensates by thinning (across the cross section )and is considerably weakened internally.  Your hair is already more elastic than usual while wet (which is why wet hair is longer than dried hair), and this extra elasticity is also what makes it more fragile and weaker than dried hair.  The stress and manipulation of detangling at this critical point may cause you more problems without a balanced structural protein component there to resist the extra stretching, weakening, breakage-- and return it to normal once dried.  So, extra stretchy hair will break easier than balanced hair because it is inherently weaker, wet and dry.  Over-proteinated hair will break easiest of all because it does have much of the elasticity/stretch factor at all.  The forces have to be balanced in order to fight and reduce breakage. 

All stretching is not bad.  Healthy hair will stretch because it is has natural elastic properties.  However,  there is a point where the stretching becomes too much for the hair to withstand. Recognizing this threshold is very important to protect against breakage.  Super elastic, stretched hair is weaker than normal balanced hair.  The more it stretches the weaker it gets, and the closer it ventures to the point of breakage. There has to be a healthy balance between the elastic and structural properties of the hair. When the hair is continuously forced to stretch beyond its normal range, either do a lack of protein structure or physical manipulation, it breaks.  Before this happens though, there is usually a point where the hair will stretch and stretch without breaking.  This is an indication that structural components of the hair are lacking, but are not to the point where the hair  would break.  This is a warning sign. You have to find that happy medium. HTH


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## kreeme (Apr 25, 2006)

Sista...you are tha bomb girl!!!


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## Sweetcoco82 (Apr 25, 2006)

Well i tested my hair and some parts stretched for ever and others stretched then broke. Looks like i need some protein ASAP!!!! Now to figure out what to use.


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## senimoni (Apr 25, 2006)

Sista you know I'm going to have to read that about 3 more times right.


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## Sistaslick (Apr 25, 2006)

you know I gets (yes I said "gets" ) longwinded.


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## macherieamour (Apr 25, 2006)

Thanks sooo much for this! It musta took u foeva!! WE soooooo appreciate it. I printed it out  Its now in my HAIR binder,lol.


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## planodiva (Apr 25, 2006)

what a brainstorm idea...a hair binder


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## Cinnabuns (May 3, 2006)

Great post Sistaslick!  This information is truly helpful and thank you so much for putting it together for us.  You're the greatest.


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## offthechainliz (May 15, 2006)

great info!


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## cap9z (May 19, 2006)

thank you so much!


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## mohair (May 19, 2006)

thanks alot.  I was really feeling depressed about all the hair i have been loosing lately.  This information gives me hope.


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## *Happily Me* (May 23, 2006)

nurseN98 said:
			
		

> OMG, I think I know what my problem is!
> 
> Thanks Sistaslick!
> *running to do a protein treatment*




Same here!

Thank you Sistaslick!  You broke it down


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## Sistaslick (May 24, 2006)

thanks guys, I really appreciated the feedback   I'm glad so many are finding the info useful.  


dsylla you are just so cute in your siggy pic.  I always smile when I come across that picture


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## SerenityBreeze (May 24, 2006)

Thank you sooooooooooooooooo much for posting this. I was almost to a point were I was ready to throw up my hands.

I revived my hair from a broken damaged state with routine treatemetns. I recently could not understand why my routine treatemetns were not working in my favour anymore...unitl you broke it down for me.

Now I know exactly what I am doing wrong -- I have to listen to my hair needs now and not overkill with routine treatments like before.

Aslo, I truly appreciate your advising which order to put on my products. This will help with maintenance.

You are the best!  God Bless!!


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## Catina72 (Jun 2, 2006)

Thank you so very much. Lord knows I need all the guidance I can get. I was real confused on the protein vs moisture thing. I think I've got a grasp on it. My hair is doing okay with my regimen so I'll stick with it until I see those signs! You rock !


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## BMoreFlyy (Jun 2, 2006)

thanks for this message


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## Maahiyshah (Jun 3, 2006)

This is excellent. So helpfull. Thanks!!!


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## SingingStar12 (Jun 4, 2006)

Great post! Thanks for posting so much information!


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## NessaNessa (Jun 17, 2006)

HI SS!!!

Quick question, If I am in need of more protein and I think I may have too much moisture, how do I go about moisturizing my hair without overkill?  DO I still perform my deep conditioners or what?  TIA!!!!


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## Sistaslick (Jun 17, 2006)

NessaNessa said:
			
		

> HI SS!!!
> 
> Quick question, If I am in need of more protein and I think I may have too much moisture, how do I go about moisturizing my hair without overkill?  DO I still perform my deep conditioners or what?  TIA!!!!



You can easily add more protein into your regimen by starting with your daily water-based moisturizers first.  There are many that are protein based, and these are great for giving you a small daily protein boost.  When I feel like a need just a bit of protein I'll use something like Cantu Shea Butter Break Cure or Profectiv Break Free.  Thats one way to get more protein without washing your hair. 

Now, If you feel like you need more lasting protein, you can simply do a mild protein deep conditioning with something like Aphogee 2 minute keratin reconstructor, Mane N Tail, ORS Mayo, or LeKair cholesterol.  Just alternate your moisturizing deep conditioner with a protein based conditioner, and that should help you out some.   HTH.


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## NessaNessa (Jun 17, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> You can easily add more protein into your regimen by starting with your daily water-based moisturizers first.  There are many that are protein based, and these are great for giving you a small daily protein boost.  When I feel like a need just a bit of protein I'll use something like Cantu Shea Butter Break Cure or Profectiv Break Free.  Thats one way to get more protein without washing your hair.
> 
> Now, If you feel like you need more lasting protein, you can simply do a mild protein deep conditioning with something like Aphogee 2 minute keratin reconstructor, Mane N Tail, ORS Mayo, or LeKair cholesterol.  Just alternate your moisturizing deep conditioner with a protein based conditioner, and that should help you out some.   HTH.


Thanks a bunch SS!!!


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## bbailey (Jun 22, 2006)

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to tell you girls about a product I have been using for awhile now and its working great.  its called cher-mere hair food.  its a caribbean product and its very popular in trinidad.  the owner of cher-mere is a caribbean biochemist (so she knows what its like to have black hair - and she knows how to fix it).  its all natural - no nasty chemicals

I have only seen it online. I bought it off ebay first, but now i see its available from a website:  www.cher-mere.com

hope that helps
-BB


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## SparklingFlame (Jun 22, 2006)

faithful said:
			
		

> Thanks for the info! After giving birth to my daughter, it seems like my hair will never get enough moisture.


Me too! No matter what I do it feels so dry!!! Sista, what should I do?


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## Sistaslick (Jun 23, 2006)

hey girl!

What types of moisturizers are you using?  What's your washing and deep conditioning frequency?  You can also pm me if you want, too


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## Lovelylocs (Jun 26, 2006)

Thanks for the info, sistaslick!


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## SparklingFlame (Jun 26, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> hey girl!
> 
> What types of moisturizers are you using?  What's your washing and deep conditioning frequency?  You can also pm me if you want, too


You know what? My hair isnt really all that dry at all!  I had been rocking a twist out and it appeared that it was dry but when my cousin cornrowed my hair the other day, it wasnt dry at all. I guess I'm just paranoid. Also I forgot to tell you that my daughters hair is fine without the use of Aphogee. I just put some Sebastian Potion #9 on it along with some mango butter and cornrowed it. The "breakage" (not sure if it was really breackage) stopped. Thanks for all your advice, o mighty hair guru!


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## TwistNMx (Jun 26, 2006)

Thanks much!  
I truly appreciate this.  I've been so depressed about my hair. 
I will save this info.
I've been in the battlefield with this hair of mine for a few months now.  
As I write this, happen to be under an oil/protein treatment.  My hair is thin but unruly when dry and my ends are super thin.  I just chopped off 2 inches today.  
So at least now I have something positive to try.


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## mahogany66 (Jun 30, 2006)

I am starting on my journal of healthy hair and your info is GREATLY appreciated.


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## amorette (Jun 30, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> thank all of you for your kind words! Just too sweet!  This sincerely inspires me to continue on with entire body of work I'm planning. Thank you all.


 
Sista slick,
you are a gem to have done this thread, it is rich with great info....I have a couple questions: which moisturizers do you use?  i just came on this site in february...and I had alot of breakage...when i came on the site and started the vitamins etc the breakage stopped, and my nails grew, and i got 2 inches of growth the first month...now i notice my hair is breaking again just a very little, and it does not seem to be growing...im taking all of the vitamins i have listed on my profile, DCing once a week with Nioxin DC, and aphogee every 6 weeks.  My hair is corkscrew curly so it is hard to really tell the growth unless it is wet - 3b i think - and i workout every day so i rinse it or Cowash it daily, then follow that with nioxin leave in conditioner, a coat of castor oil, and then brush into a curly ponytail and airdry ... help - i am dissappointed because i thought the 1.5- 2 inches per month of growth would keep up - and maybe it is still growing like that but im just not retaining because of breakage...i especially notice that the middle of my head looks really short - because it is so curly unstretched it's probably 4 inches...yikes...while some parts on the sides and back reach etiher should or armpit...i want that short part down to my armpit unstretched... help help help


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## Sistaslick (Jun 30, 2006)

amorette said:
			
		

> Sista slick,
> you are a gem to have done this thread, it is rich with great info....I have a couple questions: which moisturizers do you use?  i just came on this site in february...and I had alot of breakage...when i came on the site and started the vitamins etc the breakage stopped, and my nails grew, and i got 2 inches of growth the first month...now i notice my hair is breaking again just a very little, and it does not seem to be growing...im taking all of the vitamins i have listed on my profile, DCing once a week with Nioxin DC, and aphogee every 6 weeks.  My hair is corkscrew curly so it is hard to really tell the growth unless it is wet - 3b i think - and i workout every day so i rinse it or Cowash it daily, then follow that with nioxin leave in conditioner, a coat of castor oil, and then brush into a curly ponytail and airdry ... help - i am dissappointed because i thought the 1.5- 2 inches per month of growth would keep up - and maybe it is still growing like that but im just not retaining because of breakage...i especially notice that the middle of my head looks really short - because it is so curly unstretched it's probably 4 inches...yikes...while some parts on the sides and back reach etiher should or armpit...i want that short part down to my armpit unstretched... help help help



awww no prob girl! 

I have quite a few moisturizers I like to use.  For those times I need more protein I go with any one of thse: Salerm 21, Cantu Shea Butter break cure or grow strong,  Elasta QP mango butter, and Profectiv Break Free or Mega Growth.

For moisture, I tend to stick with ORS Olive oil, ORS carrot oil, Neutragena Triple Moisture silk touch leave in, and sometimes Luster's S-Curl.

Are your Nioxin products protein heavy?  Your conditioner washes should be helping with your moisture balance-- unless they are themselves protein rich.  How often are you clarifying your hair w/ the co-washing?  The only other thing I could see that may be causing you a problem is the wet brushing into a ponytail to airdry.  Are you ensuring your holders aren't causing to much stress to the area being pulled back?  Do you switch up the pulled back styles with "free movement" styles occasionally to give your hair a break from the tension?


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## amorette (Jun 30, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> awww no prob girl!
> 
> I have quite a few moisturizers I like to use. For those times I need more protein I go with any one of thse: Salerm 21, Cantu Shea Butter break cure or grow strong, Elasta QP mango butter, and Profectiv Break Free or Mega Growth.
> 
> ...


 
where do you get the shea butter and the ORS olive and carrot oil - but I thought oils were not moisturizers?   I dont know if the nioxin conditioners are too heavy - but i dont use them every day - i use the leave in conditioner every day because i need something to tame my curls, and that seems light - it is a moisturizing leave-in plus then i seal it with castor oil on my ends...today i tried essential oils (peppermint/lavender) mixed with jojoba oil and sulphur on my scalp then i coated my hair with the leave in condtioner...i co-wash with finesse moisturizing conditioner.  I never wear my hair out because it is so curly and shrunken it looks too short... i look like little orphan annie...so i always always have it up in a bun or curly ponytail with some little curly pieces hanging down - unless i flat iron it - which i havent done since february - i wonder how damaging it would be if i did that more often....the hair scrunchies are only wrapped twice usually around my hair so they are not too tight, and they are cloth scrunchies so they are covered...what do you think of all of that? and which is the best conditioner to use for co-washes?


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## Sistaslick (Jun 30, 2006)

Oh! The Organic Root Stimulator olive oil  and carrot oil moisturizers are not oils.  These are still waterbased moisturizers-- just have a bit of oil in them- kinda like a water, humectant, oil mix.  They aren't like plain extra virgin olive oil or regular carrot oil.  The elasta qp mango butter and the ORS products can be found at Walmart, Walgreens, or a beauty supply store.  

Are you using the Finesse Moisturizing conditioner for dry hair?  I noticed that one does have a bit of protein.  If you are using it daily, the protein may be a little more than you need.  There are tons of great conditioners you can use for your co-washes that are really good for maintaining your moisture balance.   There are a few threads around here with great recs, so check those out   Most people like Suave and V05 for co-washing because they are pretty cheap, smell great, and rinse clean.  Just make sure the one you choose for daily use isn't one w/ protein. 

I think you should give your hair a break from the pulling back though.  Perhaps you can try some styles like twists-- or maybe even try _banding _to "lengthen" your curls out. 



			
				amorette said:
			
		

> where do you get the shea butter and the ORS olive and carrot oil - but I thought oils were not moisturizers?   I dont know if the nioxin conditioners are too heavy - but i dont use them every day - i use the leave in conditioner every day because i need something to tame my curls, and that seems light - it is a moisturizing leave-in plus then i seal it with castor oil on my ends...today i tried essential oils (peppermint/lavender) mixed with jojoba oil and sulphur on my scalp then i coated my hair with the leave in condtioner...i co-wash with finesse moisturizing conditioner.  I never wear my hair out because it is so curly and shrunken it looks too short... i look like little orphan annie...so i always always have it up in a bun or curly ponytail with some little curly pieces hanging down - unless i flat iron it - which i havent done since february - i wonder how damaging it would be if i did that more often....the hair scrunchies are only wrapped twice usually around my hair so they are not too tight, and they are cloth scrunchies so they are covered...what do you think of all of that? and which is the best conditioner to use for co-washes?


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## amorette (Jun 30, 2006)

I think you should give your hair a break from the pulling back though.  Perhaps you can try some styles like twists-- or maybe even try _banding _to "lengthen" your curls out.[/quote]
thanks for all the info mamma!    what is "banding"????? i dont want to look like orphan annie so whatever i do needs to stretch the curls out fo sho...and i work out twice a day and my hair gets soaking wet because i sweat so much so will it hold/last or shrink up? i need some good holding products too...


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## Sistaslick (Jul 1, 2006)

amorette said:
			
		

> thanks for all the info mamma!    what is "banding"????? i dont want to look like orphan annie so whatever i do needs to stretch the curls out fo sho...and i work out twice a day and my hair gets soaking wet because i sweat so much so will it hold/last or shrink up? i need some good holding products too...




You gone have to get with some of the natural sistas on the banding thing.    Its an airdrying method where you place tiny ponytail holders (bands) along the length of the hair so that it dries into a stretched out position.  It helps tone down the shrinkage.   I'm sure somebody has a fotki with examples of this.


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## amorette (Jul 1, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> You gone have to get with some of the natural sistas on the banding thing.  Its an airdrying method where you place tiny ponytail holders (bands) along the length of the hair so that it dries into a stretched out position. It helps tone down the shrinkage.  I'm sure somebody has a fotki with examples of this.


 
Brilliant! what a great idea...i just wonder which ponytail holders i could use that would not break my hair - i need to go first thing tomorrow morning to sav-on....i wonder how it will look since my hair is 17 different lengths ....i really want to be out of this transition and just retain my growth...i need all the length i can get with my curly shrinking hair  ...which products do you use to hold the hair and moistu rize at the same time, and when you band do you sit under a dryer or let it airdry...i am not sure how to look up past threads on this......


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## aprilbiz (Jul 1, 2006)

This is a wonderful must read!  I'm glad it's a sticky!  Thank you so much!


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## Sistaslick (Jul 1, 2006)

Thanks april!  

Amorette, try these threads for banding: 

(Stretching natural hair) http://www.longhaircareforum.com/showthread.php?t=80459&highlight=banding

(Trying Banding tonight)  http://www.longhaircareforum.com/showthread.php?t=23707&highlight=banding

For the 2nd link, I think Jessy55 has changed her album, so try pm'ing her or doing a search under her name.  I think she has pics in there too.  

You can also type the word "banding" into the search box and threads will pop up. Definitely give it a shot girl!  You can use oil soaked hoisery holders or those terry cloth mini holders, I wouldn't recommend rubber bands.  And something without metal parts would be best.


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## amorette (Jul 5, 2006)

thanks so uch sista..i banded and went out to a club in beverly hills saturday night and all the men were hitting on me...as a matter of fact that happened to me again when i banded yesterday too...my hair looks sexy and free when i take out the bands - i used the olive oil moisturizer and sealed it wth nioxin finishing cream for hold....sexxxy :0)


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## amorette (Jul 5, 2006)

thanks so much sista..i banded and went out to a club in beverly hills saturday night and all the men were hitting on me...as a matter of fact that happened to me again when i banded yesterday too...my hair looks sexy and free when i take out the bands - i used the olive oil moisturizer and sealed it wth nioxin finishing cream for hold....sexxxy :0)


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## Blkbeautyhair (Jul 5, 2006)

*SistaSlick* - you are truly a wealth of knowledge. I have a question for you about my breakage. I'm also trying to minimize/stop the amount of breakage I'm experiencing. I'm about 2 months in to my healthy hair regimine and I have noticed that my breakage has decreased tremedously. However I'm now concerned about my protein to moisture balance. For example on Monday I had my swim class. I used a cap but the back of my hair still got wet. Instead of washing that night because I was exhausted when I got in at 10:00 I just wet my hair in the shower to rinse out the pool water, slapped on a ton of ORS Hair Mayonaisse (sp?), then put a plastic cap and my scarf on my head and went to sleep. In the morning I washed it out followed by my regular wash using Silk Elements moisturizing shampoo, and then I sat under the dryer for 10 minutes with Motions CPR, followed by a leave-in of Salerm 21 and Garnier Fructis. I roller set and then after I was dry I applied WGO sparingly to my scalp and went about my day. That night I then applied some IC Nightime Treatment Oil to my hair wrapped and put my scarf on. Is what I'm doing OK for my hair? Do I have the right mix of moisture and protein? I know my conditioners are very protein heavy but I figure I'm balancing that out with my nightly application of the IC Oil if that is in fact a moisturizer. What do you think? Please Help!!!! 

TIA!


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## Sistaslick (Jul 5, 2006)

amorette said:
			
		

> thanks so much sista..i banded and went out to a club in beverly hills saturday night and all the men were hitting on me...as a matter of fact that happened to me again when i banded yesterday too...my hair looks sexy and free when i take out the bands - i used the olive oil moisturizer and sealed it wth nioxin finishing cream for hold....sexxxy :0)




Wow! Great!! I am glad the banding worked out for you!


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## Sistaslick (Jul 5, 2006)

Blkbeautyhair said:
			
		

> *SistaSlick* - you are truly a wealth of knowledge. I have a question for you about my breakage. I'm also trying to minimize/stop the amount of breakage I'm experiencing. I'm about 2 months in to my healthy hair regimine and I have noticed that my breakage has decreased tremedously. However I'm now concerned about my protein to moisture balance. For example on Monday I had my swim class. I used a cap but the back of my hair still got wet. Instead of washing that night because I was exhausted when I got in at 10:00 I just wet my hair in the shower to rinse out the pool water, slapped on a ton of ORS Hair Mayonaisse (sp?), then put a plastic cap and my scarf on my head and went to sleep. In the morning I washed it out followed by my regular wash using Silk Elements moisturizing shampoo, and then I sat under the dryer for 10 minutes with Motions CPR, followed by a leave-in of Salerm 21 and Garnier Fructis. I roller set and then after I was dry I applied WGO sparingly to my scalp and went about my day. That night I then applied some IC Nightime Treatment Oil to my hair wrapped and put my scarf on. Is what I'm doing OK for my hair? Do I have the right mix of moisture and protein? I know my conditioners are very protein heavy but I figure I'm balancing that out with my nightly application of the IC Oil if that is in fact a moisturizer. What do you think? Please Help!!!!
> 
> TIA!



Aww thanks!   I am not too familiar with the IC oil, but the name doesn't sound particularly moisturizing.  Without looking at the ingredients, it _sounds _like it would be more of a sealant for an actual moisture source.  You can pm or list the ingredients here if you want--I'm about to head out for a late hair run tonight . . . and if I see it, I can give you my opinion on it. Right now its sounding like a regular oil type product. 

I do think your products are a little protein heavy, but if you aren't having any breakage or stiffness right now from using them, your hair obviously needed the protein boost.   I'd just be careful and monitor how your hair feels each day and go forward from there.  Pay attention to the early signs your hair gives you, because its best to catch it early before the breakage ever begins.  If you feel a stiff/tough kind of feel to your hair creeping in thats a warning sign of breakage to come. . . when you get that dry, snappy kind of breakage the overload is starting set in.  In either instance, you know to back off of the protein just a bit and begin focusing on the moisturizing aspects of your regimen again.  HTH.


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## morehairplease (Jul 5, 2006)

great post/thread ladies! Sista thanks SO much for this!


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## LovelyLionessa (Jul 5, 2006)

Thanks Sistaslick for being a blessing to ladies everywhere!


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## Blkbeautyhair (Jul 9, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> Aww thanks!  I am not too familiar with the IC oil, but the name doesn't sound particularly moisturizing. Without looking at the ingredients, it _sounds _like it would be more of a sealant for an actual moisture source. You can pm or list the ingredients here if you want--I'm about to head out for a late hair run tonight . . . and if I see it, I can give you my opinion on it. Right now its sounding like a regular oil type product.


 
Grrr!! I just typed up my post and received an error message so here I go again.  

This has been a great help. So far I have not experienced any stiffness but while my breakage has reduced a lot I'm still experiencing some which drives me nuts. I'm going to take your advice and up my moisture. I'm going to do a deep moisture treatment one week and a protein treatment the next and see what that does for me.

Here are the ingredients for my IC night treatment oil:

octyl Palmitate
Mineral oil
Safflower oil
Cyclomethicone
Caprylic/Capic Triglyceride
Lanolin Oil
Vitamin A, D, E
Aloe Extract
Fragrance
Thanks again!


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## Sistaslick (Jul 10, 2006)

Yeah, that product would definitely be considered more of a sealant.  There's no water in it, and the mineral oil and cyclomethicone are other moisture obstacles.   If I'm not mistaken, cyclomethicone is considered one of the "stubborn" cones.  It isn't water soluble-- so it can build up on the hair with repeated use and cause further dryness for ya.  This "cone" is one that may require a clarifier to fully remove.  

You'll be fine though! Just use this oil to seal your moisture source.  It may take awhile for the breakage from protein overload to tone down, but consistent moisturizing and deep conditioning will help turn it around.


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## Blkbeautyhair (Jul 10, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> Yeah, that product would definitely be considered more of a sealant. There's no water in it, and the mineral oil and cyclomethicone are other moisture obstacles. If I'm not mistaken, cyclomethicone is considered one of the "stubborn" cones. It isn't water soluble-- so it can build up on the hair with repeated use and cause further dryness for ya. This "cone" is one that may require a clarifier to fully remove.
> 
> You'll be fine though! Just use this oil to seal your moisture source. It may take awhile for the breakage from protein overload to tone down, but consistent moisturizing and deep conditioning will help turn it around.


 
Ah! thanks for the info. I will definitely decrease my usage of that product.


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## AngelicRose07 (Jul 15, 2006)

thank you! this was very informative!


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## Ms_Twana (Jul 17, 2006)

Thanks for the post Sistaslick. It was great. I am going to PM you because I have waaay too many questions to post here. I'm a newbie trying to find a regimen, so I want to ask you about some of the products that I have.


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## Lioness (Jul 20, 2006)

Excellent post. Helpful, informing and encouraging. 

Sista Slick, 

last month, I was constantly spraying Aphogee pro vitamin leave in conditioner on my hair (is this a protein?...)
Next thing you know, the ends of my hair in the 'kitchen' were really dry and breaking off- but just that part of my hair. I trimmed it (as this part seems to grow the fastest on my head) and put some grease directly on the ends. I'm sure the dry ends will disappear, but what do you think caused it?


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## Ms_Twana (Jul 20, 2006)

Sista Slick, when you are referring to the wet assessment, what do you mean when you talk about the hair "stretching??"

And how do you tell the difference between hair that lacks moisture and hair that is dry? I know they are different, but they _seem_ the same to me.​


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## Sistaslick (Jul 20, 2006)

Summa Bliss said:
			
		

> Excellent post. Helpful, informing and encouraging.
> 
> Sista Slick,
> 
> ...



Hey! 
I am not too familiar Aphogeeâ€™s leave in conditioner, I would need to have a look at the ingredients.  From my experience, Aphogee seems more or a protein rich line of products, and the fact that itâ€™s a _leave-in conditioner _usually means that there is going to be some level of protein or protein-like rebuilding complexes in there.  Check the ingredients. Iâ€™m 99% sure its protein heavy.  Alot of times, you can tell  whether something is protein based by simply using it and gauging how it feels on your hair.  If you feel your hair hardening after using it tougheningâ€”you know the protein components of the product outweigh the moisturizing aspects.  

Were you using this a moisturizer?  If so, I really think you should try to find something more moisturizing for daily/regular use.  

I am a big proponent of moisturizing the hair first then sealing to combat dryness.    Once you have applied your moisturizer, you should seal it in with a light coating of oil.  Now you can lightly apply your grease to seal, but I prefer natural oils like coconut or almond for sealing the hair because these wear off and allow you to moisturize daily.  I would not use grease in the place of a real moisturizer. Grease can be kind of heavy and can work against you if you arenâ€™t careful.  For some, it gives their moisturizer more mileageâ€”trapping in the moisturizer and allowing the hair to remain moisturized for days.  For others, it simply leads to dryness and product buildup sooner.  This is usually what happens to me.  I have fine hair strands and grease tends to make my hair go limp no matter how little I use.  I usually have to wash and start over.


----------



## Sistaslick (Jul 20, 2006)

Ms_Twana said:
			
		

> Sista Slick, when you are referring to the wet assessment, what do you mean when you talk about the hair "stretching??"​





Hey girl!  I'll try my best to explain.  Well, as you know, hair is elastic and needs to be in order to withstand breakage.   The stretching that healthy hair does is rarely noticeable to us- it is very subtle. The hair can be manipulatedâ€”even very harshly sometimes and it will not break.  All of the forces within the hair strand are balanced. However, there is a point where the hair is too elastic and the stretching becomes too much for the hair to withstand. Recognizing this threshold is very important for protecting against breakage.   

When the hair is too elastic, it is very, very soft and simply stretches and stretches and then breaks.  If you take a hair that has shed while your hair is in a state like this, and pull it, youâ€™ll see that it stretches and stretches before it breaks- as opposed to breaking right away when pulled on.  The hair may thin out in parts before it finally succumbs. When you comb through hair like this, it tends to "follow the comb" rather than pull cleanly through.  Overall, this kind of hair feels spongy, gummy, mushy, and limp when it is wet because it lacks the structural protein component it needs.

This usually happens to those of us who are hair care consciousâ€”who moisturize, moisturize, moisturize and/or are overzealous with our deep conditioning efforts (ex. lengthy periods of time/overnight  )  It is also common among those of us who have undergone a process where the hairâ€™s natural protein storess are compromised.  (relaxing/coloring)

We can tell when there are problems with elasticity/structure when the hair breaks at the slightest touch (too much structure/protein) or when it feels weak and stretches and stretches on us- then breaks.   (overconditioned/lvery ittle structure)




> And how do you tell the difference between hair that lacks moisture and hair that is dry? I know they are different, but they seem the same to me.



Hahaa, this one is interesting. Iâ€™m not sure, but I think you might may be having some issue with the word "dry" when itâ€™s referring to the way the hair feels as in parched, moisture deficient _(Girl, my hair so dry and rough)_, and when its referring to hair that is not wet _(I just towel dried my hair . . . or I am waiting for my hair to dry  ).   _

If someone says their hair is dry, I would always take that to mean that they are lacking moisture.  As far as telling whether you need more moisture or protein on your (dry/dried) hair--- it is definitely possible, but can really be confusing if you aren't sure what to look for. When your hair is dry, tough, brittle and breaking while it is dried that is an indication of low moisture content and too much protein.   On my â€œdriedâ€ hair, my hair feels like straw/hay when I need more moisture.  On the flip side, my â€œdriedâ€ hair feels limp, overly soft , and weak when it needs more protein.  

The best way to tell (in my experience) is on wet not dried hair.  HtH.​


----------



## Lioness (Jul 20, 2006)

Thanks Sisatslick,

Just read the ingredients, and yes, it IS aprotein leave in....D'oh!

I was using it because I ran out of braid spray ! Won't make the mistake of using something like that every day again.

Definitely, I'm more in favour of moisture, than protein. I generally only use protein when deep conditioning. That's usually enough for my hair- not using protein daily.
Just got Botanicals Conditioning Tonic which is okay.


----------



## Sistaslick (Jul 20, 2006)

Yeah lay off of the aphogee just a bit and focus on replenishing that moisture balance.  Reserve the aphogee leave in for those times when you need a bit more structure after a wash.


----------



## amara11 (Jul 20, 2006)

Hey sistaslick,

I've read a lot of your "tutorials"  and Ive followed pretty much everything to the t.
Im transitioning and naturally (4a/b thick/coarse), my hair hasnt been the same since my last perm in August of last year. For the first few months, washing and conditioning once a week were doing wonders for my hair. It was incredibly soft- and no one could believe that it had been months since my last perm.
But since the start of this year, things have been different, my hair started to feel "stiffer" after my routine and it felt hard. I would wash with Keracare (not the 1st lather but the other one- i forgot the name) then I'd follow with deep conditioning using Keracare humecto. I used a light spray on moisturizer by biolage that contained milk, and then followed with a heat protectant to blow dry and flat iron.

As I said this no longer works and I have been in search of a new regime and new products. My hair when whet stretches slightly, then breaks, i have broken hairs often, so Im assuming that I have too much protein and not enough moisture. 

Last week I tried clarifying. I did a first lather with ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo to remove Ca2+ and Mg+, then rinsed and used CON Clarifying poo , in case the build up of products/ mineral deposits was causing the stiffness. I then followed by deep conditioning under the hood using Suave's humectant conditioner.

I rinsed, applied a moisturizer (Cantu Shea Butter-leave in) than added  small amount of shea butter oil to seal in the moisture.

Still didnt help!

My hair was still stiff when I tried to flat iron. SO much so that I got frustrated, turned off the iron, and pulled it into a bun. 

I would like to try co washes b/c I know my hair needs moisture badly. Im just wondering, *do i continue with this new regime of shampooing, then dc'ing, then moisturizing and sealing?* Is it the kind of thing you have to do continuosly to see results? If not, what else do I try? My natural hair stays so dry- while my relaxed ends respond better to moisture. No matter what I put on, give it an hour or so, and my natural hair feels dry again, sometimes even crunchy.

Im torn now! I want to stay in my transition, sometimes I just want to cut off the relaxed ends and start over. Other times I really think that just giving in and getting a perm (or maybe trying a txtrzr) would be better.  But being at almost the 11 month mark, I feel I've come to far to do either. What do I do? My hair is so thirsty and so hard.

Please Help!!

Sorry so long


----------



## Sistaslick (Jul 20, 2006)

amara11 said:
			
		

> Hey sistaslick,
> 
> I've read a lot of your "tutorials"  and Ive followed pretty much everything to the t.
> Im transitioning and naturally (4a/b thick/coarse), my hair hasnt been the same since my last perm in August of last year. For the first few months, washing and conditioning once a week were doing wonders for my hair. It was incredibly soft- and no one could believe that it had been months since my last perm.
> ...



Hey girl!  Congrats on 11 months relaxer free! 

Hmmmm :scratchch 
As a stretcher, I can attest to the fact that the hair overall just tends to feel drier and drier the further post relaxer you get.  During a stretch or transition, it's really important that you step up your level of conditioning and moisturizing.  For me, this means more frequent washing/conditioning during the week for hydration, and sometimes during a deep stretch, that translates to washing every 2 days.  You may really want to start considering washing your hair twice a week.

Also,  I think your hair may not like the mineral oil in the KeraCare which could be causing some buildup issues.  The mineral oil may be preventing your moisture from truly getting in where it needs to go.  The biolage spray may have aggravated the issue with the milk ingredient, as milk b/c of its acidity does tend to harden the hair.  Without knowing the other ingredients of the leave in spray, Iâ€™m speculating here. 

Another thing is your clarifying :scratchch If the ORS is indeed a chelating poo, it should have done an excellent job of lifting the mineral oil and other deposits from your hair.  But one thing I will suggest is that when working with a salon line like KeraCare, is that sometimes (and in your particular case with the buildup) staying â€œwithin the lineâ€ on certain things is important.  For example, the mineral oil buildup youâ€™ve experienced using the line would probably best be cleared up with the clarifying shampoo that was designed for this particular line, the 1st lather shampoo.  Sometimes outside products donâ€™t really help address the problems caused by another line.

Next, your step following the clarifying/chelating session may have also been another problem.  When you clarify or chelate your hair, you really need to follow up the session with an intense deep moisturizing treatment.  Especially since you used two back to back clarifying shampoos.  I like Suave and all , but I donâ€™t think Suave can give you the level of conditioning you are going to need to bring your hair back to normal.  I wouldnâ€™t use the Humecto again, because of the mineral oil componentâ€”but another deep conditioner like Kenra Moisturizing conditioner or a bargain brand like AtOne Botanicals Conditioner or Herbal Essences replenishing conditioner will do a better job than the Suave.  Do a search, and youâ€™ll find plenty of great conditioner suggestions throughout this site.  You should try to deep condition the hair with your moisturizing conditioner for 30-45 minutes w/ heat preferably.

The Cantu shea butter leave in is a protein based leave in, so this would have only contributed to the stiffness problem.  Pretty much everything from the Cantu line is protein based and wonâ€™t do much for your stiffness. hwell  I'd be on the look out for some relatively protein-free moisturizers like ORS olive oil or Luster's s-curl.



> I would like to try co washes b/c I know my hair needs moisture badly. Im just wondering, *do i continue with this new regime of shampooing, then dc'ing, then moisturizing and sealing?* Is it the kind of thing you have to do continuosly to see results? If not, what else do I try? My natural hair stays so dry- while my relaxed ends respond better to moisture. No matter what I put on, give it an hour or so, and my natural hair feels dry again, sometimes even crunchy.
> 
> Im torn now! I want to stay in my transition, sometimes I just want to cut off the relaxed ends and start over. Other times I really think that just giving in and getting a perm (or maybe trying a txtrzr) would be better.  But being at almost the 11 month mark, I feel I've come to far to do either. What do I do? My hair is so thirsty and so hard.
> 
> Please Help!!



I think conditioner washing is an excellent choice for keeping the hair moisturized   You can incorporate them into a once a week deep conditioning regimen plan or do them exclusively.  Either way, I'd try to get in at least 2 sessions of some type of washing/hydration each week.  For me, I shampoo and deep condition once per week for 30 mins on one wash, and 3 days later I co-wash- alternating like that.  Sometimes Iâ€™ll go a week or two purely co-washing.  Just whatever my hair likes at the time.  

With co-washing, buildup can always become an issue, so occasional clarifying would be helpful here.  Also, selecting the proper conditioner will help make your conditioner washing experience successful.  Opt for conditioners with water soluble â€œconesâ€--- like methicone copolyl and dimethicone as these will rinse from the hair cleanly and resist building up on the shaft over time.  I like watery instant conditioners for co-washing because they are light and do not weigh down the hair.  They donâ€™t condition the hair as well as thicker, richer conditioners but IMO they are the best for regular co-washers who want to stay away from shampoo. If the wrong conditioners are used, or weekly product use is too heavy to sustain frequent conditioner washing, the hair may begin to refuse moisture and other treatments.  This can result in dryness and breakage no matter how much moisturizing you do.  

You can continue on with the washing/deep conditioning once per week, only if you want to.  Please donâ€™t feel bound by this at all.  You have to do what you feel is right for your hair.  You also have to remember that your hair is changing . . . you are transitioning . . . so the needs of your hair may be different from what they were when you were fully relaxed.  Sometimes you have to re-evaluate and revamp!


----------



## Ms_Twana (Jul 20, 2006)

Sistaslick, thank you for explaining the stretching thing to me. But in the words of Lil' Jon......WHAAAAATT!!! I still don't get it. Well, I get all of the background that you gave. I just can't visualize the hair stretching as I comb it.



			
				Sistaslick said:
			
		

> Iâ€™m not sure, but I think you might may be having some issue with the word "dry" when itâ€™s referring to the way the hair feels as in parched, moisture deficient _(Girl, my hair so dry and rough)_, and when its referring to hair that is not wet _(I just towel dried my hair . . . or I am waiting for my hair to dry  ). _
> 
> If someone says their hair is dry, I would always take that to mean that they are lacking moisture.


 
No, I read another post and someone said that your hair can have moisture and still be dry. I took "dry" in that context as not having shine. But then I thought, "wouldn't that still mean that the hair lacks moisture?" That's were I got confused. But, I thought it was you that wrote the post, that's why I asked you. And I can't find where it is now. So, sorry to confuse you as much as I was confused!!!


----------



## Sistaslick (Jul 20, 2006)

Don't worry Ms Twana, you'll know it when you see it, trust me.  Its just alot less common than the "snapping" type of breakage we usually see.

I think I know which thread you are talking about-- lemme see if I can find that one for ya . . . eta: in that thread, it seemed like it was saying dry hair is not always moisture deficient-- it is only lacking in oils.  I agree with this, but w/ a slight modification.  I believe that dry hair IS always moisture deficient,and that dry hair needs moisture AND oil together.  Dryness is the absence of water/moisture,  and things become dry by the evaporation of water.  Oil acts as a barrier for the hair preventing moisture loss.  When this barrier is gone, moisture escapes and is lost from the hair shaft.  Not having oil on your hair does not in and of itself contribute to dryness, it is the fact that moisture is able to escape without the presence of some type of barrier there, that leads to dryness.  I see the two as working together.  That is why I like moisturizing and sealing so much.  You get your moisture and your oil helps keep it there.


----------



## Ms_Twana (Jul 20, 2006)

Aaaahhh!!! Now I get it. That makes a lot more sense now. Thanks Sista!!!


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## amara11 (Jul 22, 2006)

Thanks Sista- im in search of a new line and a really good moisturizer and I should be bc'ing soon so we'll see how washing 2x per week will help. Thanks again!


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## Iamnotmyhair (Aug 8, 2006)

Hi Sistaslick,

 I am new on the forum so I want to say HELLO! to everyone. I have only been lurking a couple of days and had to join. I've read this thread a couple of times and I have a question for you sista. You said you use moisturizers like ORS olive oil and carrot oil. I looked at the ingredients of each and the olive oil has mineral oil and lanolin. Which I think you said earlier in this thread would deposit onto your hair and dry it out??? I'm confused about this. I have Mizani rose H20 cream and I've heard great things but it also has mineral oil in it so now I'm a bit apprehensive. The ORS carrot oil had none of these things in it. What's your take on this?
As well, I have extra virgin olive oil to seal the ends is this a good option??

Thanxs in advance!!!!


----------



## Sistaslick (Aug 8, 2006)

Iamnotmyhair said:
			
		

> Hi Sistaslick,
> 
> I am new on the forum so I want to say HELLO! to everyone. I have only been lurking a couple of days and had to join. I've read this thread a couple of times and I have a question for you sista. You said you use moisturizers like ORS olive oil and carrot oil. I looked at the ingredients of each and the olive oil has mineral oil and lanolin. Which I think you said earlier in this thread would deposit onto your hair and dry it out??? I'm confused about this. I have Mizani rose H20 cream and I've heard great things but it also has mineral oil in it so now I'm a bit apprehensive. The ORS carrot oil had none of these things in it. What's your take on this?
> As well, I have extra virgin olive oil to seal the ends is this a good option??
> ...



Welcome to the forum!

Most moisturizers contain some bit of oil to stabilize them and improve their consistency.   Heavier oils like lanolin and mineral oil should be "okay" as long as they are not right behind the water in the ingredient list- otherwise, they may get in the way of your moisturizing.  Heavier oils can sit on the hair and hinder your moisturizing efforts. 

At the beginning of my hair journey, I was pretty firm about no mineral oil whatsoever-- but even then, I always made an exception for ORS olive oil.  Nothing really could compare to it for the price in my eyes.  I'm guessing the concentration of mineral oil was low to begin with.  The best thing is that within the last year or so, the ORS company created another version of the olive oil that substituted the mineral oil for a much more hair-friendly, coconut oil.  No mineral oil!  This is the one I use now, but it is very difficult to find.   It works just as well as the old ORS olive oil, and is cheaper too.  

I've experimented with other mineral oil type products, but my hair does not do well with them as a whole.  That is why I didn't stay on the Kera Care bandwagon for long.  Some people can thrive on mineral oil, and like I said, I even did okay with the old ORS formula, but my hair generally does not respond well to MO.  

Its totally okay to experiment with your products though, because nothing here is sound gospel.  If you are using something with MO without incident, and it's making your hair feel wonderful-- dont trash it because of what someone else says.  (Especially not that Mizani H20 stuff-- thats expensive! )   Give it a fair shot and see if it meets your standards.  Now, if you use mineral oil heavy products and feel your hair getting stiff/hard, drier, or never really feeling moisturized (you have to keep going back to moisturize over and over)- you may have a low tolerance for mineral oil.  I do recommend clarifying regularly if you have a petrolatum/mineral oil heavy regimen.   This will help fight any possible buildup or moisturizing problems.  And if the Mizani doesn't work out for you, you can use it as lotion or something  

and sure!  EvOO is great for sealing the ends


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## karerolynn (Aug 10, 2006)

Sistaslick, thank you soooooooooooooo much for your help!!  I tried to PM yesterday, to say thanks, but your box was full.


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## rosie (Aug 15, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> Most moisturizers contain some bit of oil to stabilize them and improve their consistency. Heavier oils like lanolin and mineral oil should be "okay" as long as they are not right behind the water in the ingredient list- otherwise, they may get in the way of your moisturizing. Heavier oils can sit on the hair and hinder your moisturizing efforts.
> 
> At the beginning of my hair journey, I was pretty firm about no mineral oil whatsoever-- but even then, I always made an exception for ORS olive oil. Nothing really could compare to it for the price in my eyes. I'm guessing the concentration of mineral oil was low to begin with. *The best thing is that within the last year or so, the ORS company created another version of the olive oil that substituted the mineral oil for a much more hair-friendly, coconut oil. No mineral oil!* This is the one I use now, but it is very difficult to find.  It works just as well as the old ORS olive oil, and is cheaper too.


 


That explains the two different jars of this stuff that I found at the BSS lately.

I was gonna post a question about this very different formulations when I ran across this post, quite by accident.

I noticed that they have different ingredients and was wondering why.  I even went as far as to ask the owner.  All he could do for me was look up the price.   

The BSS seems to have a good supply of both in the store.  Should I stock up on the older version with Mineral Oil, or should I buy the newer version.  I love what the older version does for me and my dd's head.  But if the newer version does the same (with different ingredients) then I can use that, too.


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## Sistaslick (Aug 15, 2006)

rosie said:
			
		

> That explains the two different jars of this stuff that I found at the BSS lately.
> 
> I was gonna post a question about this very different formulations when I ran across this post, quite by accident.
> 
> ...



You know, I cannot tell the difference between the two.  At all!  Those product chemists get an A+ in my book, because the change was seamless.  

I have only seen the older one at every BSS and drugstore I've been to in Houston.  The Walmart down the street is the only place I've ever seen the new one, and it is hardly ever in stock.  I figured ORS must just be testing the response to the new one, because they do not appear to have stopped making the older version or increased the visibility of the new one.  At least not over here yet.    I don't have a problem still buying the older version, and since Walmart can't seem to keep a steady supply of the new version, I usually do end up using it until they resupply.  I do feel a little better (it's all in the head, trust me) using the MO free one, though. 

They've changed a few of the other ingredients as well (taking out  some of the other good stuff like the horsetail, nettle, etc.)-- but I wouldn't have known the difference just using it. I always add my own EO's to it anyway, so I'm still a happy camper.   Try the new one and see if you like it.  I'm guessing you more than likely will since it looks and smells just like the old one.   It's cheaper too, so thats a good thing.


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## BÃ©linda (Aug 20, 2006)

Sistaslick said:
			
		

> *As we all know, breakage, growth and hair health go hand in hand-- because with breakage, health and  growth potential are greatly reduced.
> 
> I've shared this info on the Ezboard site I frequent (and some others), and I've decided to share a bit of what I've been writing with you all too. Some of you will recognize alot of this because I've been saving many of the posts I've done on various boards.   Please excuse the millions of typos as well-- I haven't had the chance to go through and truncate the repetition or correct for spelling. Forgive me ahead of time, it is still a work in progress and this is only an excerpt.
> 
> ...


wouah what amazing hair u hav. i'm french i live in paris and overhere we don't have as good product ass in the US but i was wandering what kind of product do u use on your hair to grow as quick my own hair is very damaged and dry and so i really need your advice. thanks for answering.


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## Sistaslick (Aug 20, 2006)

Thanks! and Welcome to the forum Belinda!

I have my regimen and products listed in the Welcome and About me sections of my hair album on the left hand side menu: www.fotki.com/sistaslick

Check your messages, I'll send you the pw.


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## BÃ©linda (Aug 20, 2006)

thanks a lot sistaslick. i'll tell u if it will work with my type of hair. that's very nice of u. kiss


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## Ladyhenri (Sep 8, 2006)

Great post...Thanks ever so much.
over the last week, i've used Aphogee Treatment for Damaged hair and Fantasia protein reconstructor...My hair has been breaking since (about 1-2inch long babies are all over the house!!). After reading this, i realised i may have given my hair a protein over-load. Currently have  le kair cholesterol Plus for Dry hair, Packed into my hair, under a plastic cap and a towel.

xx


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## Treasure2k6 (Oct 4, 2006)

BOY OH BOY! Did you just answer TONS of my questions in 1 tip o what!!! OMG....Bless you sistaslick!!! (WE'RE NOT WORTHY!!)


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## carmella25 (Oct 5, 2006)

Great post it was very helpful.

Thank you


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## paradiseblossom (Oct 10, 2006)

Thank you for your post sistaslick !!! 

I'm new to this great forum and your help made me learn to listen to my hair. I had constant growth recently but my hair was also shredding. So I realized I was using too much protein.... Thanks again !


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## asummertyme (Oct 14, 2006)

great info..puts me back o n track!


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## Proudpiscean (Oct 15, 2006)

God bless you for taking the time to put together this info for us! It has really been a life saver (or should I say hair saver) for me......especially since I am now transitioning!


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## Sistaslick (Oct 15, 2006)

awww! no problemo ladies!!!


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## shaydufblu (Oct 15, 2006)

Thanks for such wonderful information.  I'm sure I'll be referring to this thread countless times!!!!


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## EricaUk (Nov 4, 2006)

thanks so much Sistaslick, that information was extremely helpful


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## Amylee (Nov 14, 2006)

Thank you very much Sistaslick !!!
This is very helpful and I'm forever grateful to you    

Would you allow me to use this information and translate it into french in order to help some relaxed and desperate ladies on a french forum?
I will quote the original text and send a link, but some of them cannot understand english.

I will wait for your authorization before doing anything, it wouldn't honest of me othewise.

Thanks in advance


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## Sistaslick (Nov 14, 2006)

Amylee said:
			
		

> Thank you very much Sistaslick !!!
> This is very helpful and I'm forever grateful to you
> 
> Would you allow me to use this information and translate it into french in order to help some relaxed and desperate ladies on a french forum?
> ...





*Bien sÃ»r!*  And thanks for your kind words! .


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## Amylee (Nov 14, 2006)

Ooooh you speak french Sista !!!!
Je suis contente !!!


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## Sistaslick (Nov 14, 2006)

Amylee said:
			
		

> Ooooh you speak french Sista???
> Je suis contente !!!



un peu!  (I'm going to butcher this but) J'ai comprendre seulement s'il est parlÃ© lentement . . .?  :scratchch  

I tried. 

I can read and write it much better than I speak it.  I'm from Louisiana, so I've been around a Cajun French influence a bit here and there.   Most of us had to learn french in school, but I'm starting to think we learned the wrong language!  America is looking more and more Spanish everyday. So now, I don't have anyone to use my limited French speaking skills on.


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## Amylee (Nov 14, 2006)

Well, you're doing great, really!!!  I'm so happy, now I feel like home.
You can practise your french with me if you want, LOL.

I will tell you how these ladies appreciated your advices. In France, we do not have such knowledge, since all products are for caucasian hair. No one can tell us what we have to do, because no one knows how to take care of black women's hair.

By the way, it's my father's dream to go to Louisiana. We are from French West Indies, so we fell much closer to America than to France sometimes...


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## DozenRoses99 (Nov 19, 2006)

This is a GREAT thread!  This information about protein and moisture fully explains why I have had breakage problems on and off for many, many years.  I feel that with this information and the LHCF, in general,  I will be able to maintain may length (even with transitioning).


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## LaRobinWolfe76 (Nov 20, 2006)

Hello Sistaslick,

I was experiencing hair shedding to the degree of 100-200 strands per day.I couldn't see any broken strands because I was too mortified by the long strands coming from my scalp. I just went to an excellent stylist in Atlanta who stopped my shedding in its tracks with a protein and moisturizing conditoning treatment.She said that I experienced some hair thinning around my temples.Also, she said that my hair in its wet stage was very healthy.I now notice only 5-10 strands of hairs that have the bulbs on the end but now I see about 15-20 small broken strands.The stylist said that I would need at least 2 more moisturizing treatments in order for my hair to normalize and stop breaking altogether.I just would like to know if I should be worried about breakage now that my shedding is under control.


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## godsflowerrr (Nov 21, 2006)

great info....thanks so much for posting!


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## Frustrated (Nov 21, 2006)

I am fairly new to the site and need help! My hair has been breaking constantly for the last 6 months. I've tried using the info on your thread and like another one of the ladies I was not sure if my hair needs moisture or protein.
 I did figure out with the help of another member that my hair is overprocessed. My last relaxer was 8 weeks ago and I don't know how long I need to stretch.erplexed  I have a long list of products that I have been using in my hair. Here is what I have been using and how. I use EvOO to pre poo, NTM shampoo to wash my hair, deep con w/ ORS replenish pak, (the remaining NTM leave-in products). I pull my hair in a ponytail and let airdry, I have only been doing this for a week am I on the right track 
 If not please give me some suggestions


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## *Happily Me* (Jan 6, 2007)

*i just re-read this 

my hair is super elastic and getting mushy.  i did a 5 in 1 reconstructor while in the shower the other day.  that did nothing but made my hair a bit dry... i only used it in the shower so i did not deep condition with it.   my hair is still very elastic while wet.  

i am deep conditioning with ORS hair mayonaisse right now.

will this help?

i should do  a moisturing conditioner afterwards, right?*


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## brazenxvirtue (Jan 6, 2007)

DSylla said:
			
		

> *i just re-read this
> 
> my hair is super elastic and getting mushy.  i did a 5 in 1 reconstructor while in the shower the other day.  that did nothing but made my hair a bit dry... i only used it in the shower so i did not deep condition with it.   my hair is still very elastic while wet.
> 
> ...



Mushy hair sounds like it needs protein. Maybe you need to deep condition with a reconstructor.


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## Edie (Jan 9, 2007)

DSylla said:
			
		

> *i just re-read this
> 
> my hair is super elastic and getting mushy.  i did a 5 in 1 reconstructor while in the shower the other day.  that did nothing but made my hair a bit dry... i only used it in the shower so i did not deep condition with it.   my hair is still very elastic while wet.
> 
> ...




You need to do a heavy duty protein treatment, followed by a moisturizing conditioning treatment.  Or you can do what I do.  I always mix 1 part protein conditioner to 3-4 parts moisturizing conditioner when I wash my hair.  I never have a problem with mushy hair or hair that is brittle or breaks. I will let this mixture sit on my head for 20-30 minutes.


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## *Happily Me* (Jan 9, 2007)

Thanks Edie and Brazen.

My hair is a little better - i've been co-washing with ORS and Praital. I'm going to do another deep conditioner with my 5-1 this weekend.

and i'm going to limit the use of heat during this process (i kinda have too... my Maxiglide is broken )


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## Miss*Tress (Feb 25, 2007)

Amylee said:
			
		

> Thank you very much Sistaslick !!!
> This is very helpful and I'm forever grateful to you
> 
> Would you allow me to use this information and translate it into french in order to help some relaxed and desperate ladies on a french forum?
> ...


Hi Amylee. Which French forum are you on?


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## healthyhairin07 (Mar 12, 2007)

bump for those who didn't read this one


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## dabashmentlady (Mar 12, 2007)

Thank you so much for this info.  

I have had serious breakage problems for almost a year and never knew why.  After reading this three weeks ago I realized my hair lacked protein. I have since then did done an Aphogee treatment and a hair mayo mixed with egg treatment.

Amazingly the breakage the breakage is almost no more.

I am so grateful.


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## Empress Yahudah (Apr 16, 2007)

This is a great thread I wanted to BUMP this for the newbies


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## guesswho (Apr 17, 2007)

what a great thread thanks


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## csmoot (Apr 17, 2007)

Wow that was awesome. I just learned a lot.


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## Mocha5 (Apr 17, 2007)

You're a doll!  Thanks sooo much.  I think my shedding may be caused by too much protein.


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## Flamingnubian (May 13, 2007)

I am kinda new... well I just paid my dues! This is  just great... I have a lot of hope after reading this.. Education is real power! For real.. great stuff


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## baby42 (May 13, 2007)

*Bre~Bre* said:
			
		

> When is the next installment????!!!!????? Not trying to be greedy or anything  buuuuuuutttttt, when is it?????[ yes good read  thank you i will be waiting


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## ajoyfuljoy (May 13, 2007)

that was so helpful. thank you so much for posting that. i've been reading up on hair a lot lately but that made me feel like i'd really learned something.


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## MzWill (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Sista!!!!!
You're a bad mamajama for this one!!!!
Now I know what I've been doing wrong for so long.


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## The Girl (Oct 26, 2007)

bump for Classisme


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## silverlotus (Nov 2, 2007)

..............


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## CarLiTa (Dec 9, 2007)

bump;

for myself and others who may need it.


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## shaniqua (Dec 11, 2007)

Hey,

I live in London. Can anyone tell me a good moisturizer that I can use?

That protein/moisturizer forum was REALLY good and now I realize that I've been needing moisture all along!


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## Evalina1 (Jan 11, 2008)

Thank You so much for this information very very helpful


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## chicacanella (Jan 11, 2008)

shaniqua said:


> Hey,
> 
> I live in London. Can anyone tell me a good moisturizer that I can use?
> 
> That protein/moisturizer forum was REALLY good and now I realize that I've been needing moisture all along!


 

S-curl is a good moisturizer. Maker sure your hair is brushed out and shake it up first.


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## lovegan (Jan 11, 2008)

thank you for this, i've actually printed this out!


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## QT (Jun 13, 2008)

bump... to help a fellow member out.


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## TexturedTresses (Jul 14, 2008)

Thank you very much, reading this article before actually joined helped me to begin to come back from protein overload.  I'm still working on it.  Thanks to you I actually know what caused the breakage and what to actually do about it.


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## Hot40 (Aug 28, 2008)

Just joined today and this was great.
Still attempting to get my head around moisture and sealing.
Any good moisture products out there?


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## Sunshine0801 (Aug 28, 2008)

Hot40 said:


> Just joined today and this was great.
> Still attempting to get my head around moisture and sealing.
> Any good moisture products out there?


 
I love plain ol' water and glycerin.


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## clarity2008 (Aug 28, 2008)

Ok, so i don't have the time to read all of the replies...so...how much breakage is normal? should a healthy head have ANY breakage? please help me out!


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## Tamrin (Aug 28, 2008)

lovelaughlive218 said:


> Ok, so i don't have the time to read all of the replies...so...how much breakage is normal? should a healthy head have ANY breakage? please help me out!


 
Its normal to shed (little  white bulbs on end of hair coming from scalp). Breakage (little pieces of hair with no bulb) is not normal.

You should be shedding about 100 hairs a day or less.


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## tiara76 (Aug 28, 2008)

appreciate this thread...learned so much on this alone than i have in the past year of natural hair care....thanx


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## Shalilac (Aug 29, 2008)

Sunshine0801 said:


> I love plain ol' water and glycerin.



Where can I get glycerin? Have heard alot of good things about it


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## Eclass215 (Aug 29, 2008)

Wow - you don't even know how I was reading this all wide eyed like a little kid watching cartoons!  Lol.  Thank you so much!  I am going to pay more attention and try to see if I can make a difference with my hair.


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## Sunshine0801 (Aug 29, 2008)

Shalilac said:


> Where can I get glycerin? Have heard alot of good things about it


 
You can find it at most health food stores. Whole Foods probably sells it.


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## jerseygurl (Aug 29, 2008)

Some BSS carry them. Look for 100% glycerin. HTH


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## TANBRIA (Sep 1, 2008)

You have provided a wealth of information.  Thank you for sharing.  Can you recommend products for protein treatments, moisturizers and oils or what key ingrediants each of these items should contain in order to get the best end result?


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## lavenderchic (Oct 18, 2008)

Bumping
http://www.mysmiley.net/free-war-smileys.php


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## trenise (Oct 26, 2008)

I just saw this today. I was doing a search on stretchy hair because mine has gotton really elastic like. I saw this and it was very helpful. The weird thing is that my hair is now stretchy after doing OCT protein treatments. Isn't OCT protein?


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## BrooklynSouth (Nov 2, 2008)

*Bumping because this thread needs a bump once in a while.*


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## anniev2 (Dec 29, 2008)

giving it the dec 08 bump


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## LisaLisa1908 (Jan 15, 2009)

Thank you so much sistaslick for this post.  I'm positive that my constant shedding/breakage is because I need more moisture.  Thanks a million!


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## lovleelilie (Jan 15, 2009)

Sistaslick you are off the chart!  I started my hair journey off reading your articles.  And I'm ALWAYS recommending that ppl google you.  Thx!!!!!


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## LaidBak (Jul 26, 2009)

Bumping...... for the newbies!


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## varaneka (Aug 21, 2009)

I think aloe-based moisturizers are better than when a product has the first ingredient as water. That way, the moisture doesn't evaporate.


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## LaidBak (Aug 21, 2009)

creolesugarface said:


> I think aloe-based moisturizers are better than when a product has the first ingredient as water. That way, the moisture doesn't evaporate.



ITA!  I have recently fallen in love with Aloe based moisturizers.  They seem to be the best thing for my fine hair.


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## varaneka (Aug 21, 2009)

LaidBak said:


> ITA!  I have recently fallen in love with Aloe based moisturizers.  They seem to be the best thing for my fine hair.



even with lotions...it just lasts for days even after washing with soap over and over!


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## Growing My Glory (Sep 1, 2009)

Thanks Sista. Very helpful and very informative. 

I do  have one question. I started co-washing after joining this board. My hair is extremely dry and breaking inspite of co-washing and conditioning. Is it possible that I'm locking out moisture by co-washing?  

Glory


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## isabella09 (Sep 1, 2009)

Absolutely awesome post. Very informative. Thank you very much


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## LaidBak (Sep 1, 2009)

Growing My Glory said:


> Thanks Sista. Very helpful and very informative.
> 
> I do  have one question. I started co-washing after joining this board. My hair is extremely dry and breaking inspite of co-washing and conditioning. Is it possible that I'm locking out moisture by co-washing?
> 
> Glory



I'm not Sista, but I think you might need to address your hair's porosity.  If its too porous any moisture you put in is going to escape faster than normal.


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## Saffirejuiliet (Sep 1, 2009)

I needed to see this thread again. Thanks for bumping it to the first page ladies.


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## Friggin' Licia (Sep 9, 2009)

This topic is amazing. Thanks for making it, sistaslick 

But I have a dumb question... How do I stop the initial breakage? I did the assesment and figured out what kind of products I'd need for my hair...but even after use my hair still breaks. Do I need to cut it first?


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## Ms_Twana (Mar 31, 2010)

Thought I'd bump this oldie but goodie.


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## Janet' (Mar 31, 2010)

This should be a sticky---yes- WONDERFUL INFO!!!


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## SOserious (Mar 31, 2010)

OMG YOu are amazing for creating this!!!
I just have to start creating a reggie that simple....

This needs to be a sticky!


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## Desarae (Mar 31, 2010)

Classic Thread.


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## My Friend (Mar 31, 2010)

Great info on breakage. Thank you for sharing.


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## BonBon (Apr 18, 2010)

Thank you. I just did an Aphogee treatment for damaged hair. I hadn't realised I hadn't done it in a while and loads of my ends have snapped off (RIP). Hopefully I will be back to normal soon


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## Aggie (Apr 18, 2010)

tickledpinkies09 said:


> Thank you. I just did an Aphogee treatment for damaged hair. I hadn't realised I hadn't done it in a while and loads of my ends have snapped off (RIP). Hopefully I will be back to normal soon


 
Whoa, I'm sorry to hear this TP. Did you follow it up with a moisturizing deep conditioner? That may have restored the elasticity in your strands.


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## MadamCJCPA (May 26, 2010)

I'm new to the board, and all I can say is that this thread has been immensely helpful.  Thank you to Sistaslick for the wealth of information.


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## tHENATuRALhAiRpRoJEcT (Jul 9, 2010)

thank you very much OP


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## chiconya (Aug 11, 2010)

Bumping for newbies great thread by sistaslick on the importance of moisture/protein balance.


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## Nix08 (Aug 12, 2010)

chiconya said:


> Bumping for newbies great thread by sistaslick on the importance of moisture/protein balance.


 
Thank you  I've printed this and added it to my journal


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## LaidBak (Oct 3, 2010)

Bumping


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## Krystle~Hime (Oct 3, 2010)

clear and great !!


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## Carisa (Feb 24, 2011)

Bumping.......


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## Misseyl (Feb 24, 2011)

Co-signing


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## nobreakage (Feb 27, 2011)

Wow - this article just saved my hair....  Breakage is the reason I joined the forum in the first place.  Thank you so much!


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## blackmaven (Aug 13, 2011)

Bump For Newbies


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## 05girl (Jan 4, 2012)

Sistaslick


> (Wet or Dry) Stretches slighty/returns to original length /no breaking= you are balanced just stick with maintaining!



no matter how far you stretch, wouldn't hair break?  I suppose you are just supposed to give it a lil stretch?


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## Nix08 (Jan 4, 2012)

05girl Yes I think it's just a little stretch.  I think what you are looking for is that it 'bounces'....like when you stretch a rubber band it returns to it's original state unlike a chewed gum which stays in the stretched state.


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## thenewsatchell (Feb 22, 2012)

Thank you so much for this information...it's about time I take control of my hair and stop finding excuses as to why my hair is breaking soo much...very informative...


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## janeemat (May 21, 2012)

Bumping again.....Is Sistaslick still in this neck of woods.  She had a beautiful head of relaxed hair and now her natural hair is gorgeous......


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## The Princess (May 21, 2012)

janeemat said:
			
		

> Bumping again.....Is Sistaslick still in this neck of woods.  She had a beautiful head of relaxed hair and now her natural hair is gorgeous......



OMGosh I saw her hair it's so pretty. She truly understands the science of hair. She accomplish having healthy hair; relaxed and now natural.


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## Voicediva (May 25, 2012)

Thanks!  I'm so happy I found you ladies.  This information is an answer to prayer!!


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## marla (May 25, 2012)

Very helpful! Thank you so much!


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## caliscurls (Aug 21, 2012)

Bumping for recent newbies. Go to the first page, this is a great thread!


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## sunnieb (May 23, 2013)

pinkness27 - check out this thread...


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## lamaria211 (May 23, 2013)

I no im late but Sistaslick = The science of black hair?


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## EnExitStageLeft (May 23, 2013)

lamaria211

......


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## Monaleezza (Aug 15, 2013)

What I experience is this; 

I'm plaiting my hair and as I get to the ends I end up with tangled strands around my fingers. In some kind of knotted mess.

I just need to work out if my relaxed hair needs moisture or protein, I'm clearly struggling to learn what my hair is telling me.


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## curtainbluff (Aug 31, 2013)

Wealth of good information for all times


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## Aggie (Apr 11, 2018)

Bump bump bump...


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## lorr1e1 (Dec 9, 2020)

Bump


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