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Relaxed Hair Thread

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Can we talk about relaxing processes?

I know we recommend ladies to use twists to make application easier but after watching some YT videos where ladies did twists,including the young lady from last night, I realized that they do a lot smaller twists than I do. I probably have 12 twists AT MOST when applying my relaxer. So when someone would ask me about when I take them down and how long it takes, I would get confused. lol. But the ladies in a few of the videos I watched last night had to stop and take out their twists bc they had so many and they were so small. Mine don't take any time to take out and I do it as I'm applying my 2nd round of neutralizing wash.

Because I texlax, I part my hair based on my need to keep the relaxer on as short a time as possible. So I'd rather spend more time smoothing than applying the relaxer. What I found was that I actually prefer to part my hair based on the different textures I have on my head, instead of even and straight parts, which results in less twists.

March 2019 was when I really started doing it, I only used 7 sections: My nape up to the top of my ears is a very silky and fine texture. Then my coarsest, most resistant parts are my crown, so I split that into 3 sections. The top/front of my head and temple areas are the most fragile parts and have a tendency to appear thin so I do one twist for each section. Of course, I started my application with the most resistant crown area and then my nape and finally my top, temples and the all around edges.

It only takes me 2 minutes to apply the relaxer (I pull out a twist and slather the relaxer on with my hands, don't beat me up, like the photo below). And that allows me to spend 5 minutes squeezing it in and smoothing it to my liking in the various areas. And then I immediately go rinse in the backwards order that I relaxed. Overall about 8-10 minutes from start to rinse.

My sections

See how big I make my back section. Even when I part down the middle, my back section is still big. For my winter relaxers, I part down the middle. For my spring relaxers, I don't prefer to part down the middle bc it seems to make my results too straight. I'm not sure why.
1672449711656.png1672445253249.png 1672448019672.png1672445533984.png

Applied and smoothed


1672446244204.png1672448168388.png

My results

1672445613118.png1672446112125.png1672447854097.png


For the ladies who twist, about how many twists do you use to apply? And how long does it take you to relax from start to rinse? Also, how long does it take you to take out the twists?
 
MzSwift said:
Definitely depends on your strands. I have fine, cottony strands, mostly 4b (no real curl pattern, some zig zags, some "s" and some "5" patterns) looks like a poof or a cloud if I left it undisturbed, medium density.
Click to expand...
I have enough new growth that I'd probably have a 1-inch TWA if I cut it off. I fought off an intrusive thought about grabbing the scissors and going for it the other night when I was detangling/moisturizing lol

The NG at my neck is zig zags if I pull.
 
I messed around and saw a YT vid on growth and Fenugreek.
So my Fenugreek oil arrived yesterday :look: and I immediately added 20 drops to my herbal braid spray tea.
Instant tingles.
That's usually a good sign for me.

I'm gonna be really mad at myself and all of my "Ayurvedaness" if I've been sleeping on Fenugreek.
But, in my defense, I usually stick with what works for me so I'm not usually on the hunt for new products.

It all started with this video...

 
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secretdiamond said:
@MzSwift, I usually have a lot of twists. I'm thinking, about 2-2.5 times the number you have in your pic? Not sure why. One reason may be that my hair hasn't been as long as yours in some time, so it would be harder to do the larger twists?
Click to expand...

Hmm, good point! I guess I'll find out when I do my touchup next year since my hair is much shorter than before (I'm starting over after cutting out locs). I was just planning to do what I've always done but maybe I'll have to adjust.
 
ny-278.gif
 
So I've only got one conditioner in my herbal tea braid spray mix and it's a watery/liquid condish (Infusium 23), not a creamy one. I only have drops of EO's mixed in, no carrier oils. I spray it on twice a day (before styling in the morning and before bonnet at night) and I'm loving the way my hair feels! I try to ease up on the oils and conditioners when I'm in extensions to prevent build up at the roots.

I'm thinking of just using this combination even in cornrows and minibraids. I prefer non-greasy hair but a lot of our HHJ processes call for incorporating carrier oils (LOC/LCO moisturizing, DCing). Instead of oil, I used to seal in my condish with a heavier condish in the summer when I didn't want to be oily. I'm trying to figure out when and how to incorporate oils bc I do know my hair loves my EVOO/Grapeseed/Safflower oil mix. I just don't wanna mess up pillowcases. lol
 
Plushottie said:
For those who do long ps do you wash your hair in them like straight back for under a wig? If so do you have issues w matting?
Click to expand...

Yes, always! Even more so when I'm under a wig. I found that my hair grew and retained more the more I wet my hair. I may not always wash it but I wet it in the shower daily no matter what. A water scrub to the scalp and then slather on condish to leave in. I use my cleanser (which is an herbal mix of cleaning agents+condish) at least every other day. And then once a week or so I use a straight shampoo. No matter what, I slather on that condish after wetting it and then put on my wig cap. When I get home, I take off my wig and cap to make sure my hair dries before the next day. I wash and DC once a week in the cornrows too.

I also found that if I'm using a scalp oil for growth or something, it seems to work better after the shower than any other time.

ETA: About matting, I refresh my cornrows every 1-2 weeks the day after the wash and DC. I've seen so many hair journeys derailed from matting so I don't take any chances by keeping them in too long. I still consider it long term PSing bc I refresh them one by one, I don't take down my whole head and redo them all at once.
 
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MzSwift said:
Yes, always! Even more so when I'm under a wig. I found that my hair grew and retained more the more I wet my hair. I may not always wash it but I wet it in the shower daily no matter what. A water scrub to the scalp and then slather on condish to leave in. I use my cleanser (which is an herbal mix of cleaning agents+condish) at least every other day. And then once a week or so I use a straight shampoo. No matter what, I slather on that condish after wetting it and then put on my wig cap. When I get home, I take off my wig and cap to make sure my hair dries before the next day. I wash and DC once a week in the cornrows too.

I also found that if I'm using a scalp oil for growth or something, it seems to work better after the shower than any other time.

ETA: About matting, I refresh my cornrows every 1-2 weeks the day after the wash and DC. I've seen so many hair journeys derailed from matting so I don't take any chances by keeping them in too long. I still consider it long term PSing bc I refresh them one by one, I don't take down my whole head and redo them all at once.
Click to expand...
Ok this makes sense. I’m trying to max my retention and will be 2 weeks post Sunday and will start to go back under wigs but feel like hmm maybe I stop with loose wash days and wash in braids. Your always so helpful!
 
And as I'm looking at all these week-long work trips coming up, I'm back on the possible hunt for some kind of wig.

I've made traveling work by cowashing my way through, but I don't know. Maybe stay in a bun the whole week??? :scratchchin:
 
This was a good article. I like the different opinions and I didn't feel like it was another relaxer bashing piece. The stylist that kept saying she will keep trying to "educate" the clients who wanted a relaxer did get on my nerves just a 'lil bit. :look:

***Posting the entire article in case the link breaks in the future***

4 Black Hairstylists Share How They Really Feel About the Use of Relaxers in Black Haircare​

Whether you’ve got it done in the salon or applied it a home via a kit, relaxers—or “creamy crack” as it’s sometimes know in the Black community—have long been a staple for those wanting to alter their hair texture into what’s seen as a more “manageable” texture, as least by Eurocentric beauty standards. But, as much as some of us welcome having the ability to straighten out our kinks, curls, and coils, the sad and bitter truth is that the use of relaxers can be extremely detrimental to our health. A recent study by the National Institutes of Health found that the use of chemical hair straighteners, such as relaxers, has been linked to an increased risk for uterine cancer, particularly amongst Black women. And, while this information was news to some, much has already been said about relaxers being linked to an increased risk of fibroids, which Black women are two to three times more likely to suffer from than white women.

To fully grasp how this news impacts Black women and their hair choices, it’s important to understand that there is an impossible beauty standard placed on Black women that is heavily influenced by Eurocentrentic ideals. To meet this standard, Black women take it upon themselves to use products, like relaxers, that are often not ever designed with us in mind and more importantly, could be putting our health at risk, as we have now come to find out. This, of course, leaves many Black women in a hard place and forces them to make a very difficult decision: go natural and potentially face racial discrimination or straighten your hair and risk your health, and possibly, even your life. It’s a damned-if-you-do, damned-if-you-don’t situation.

In the world of Black haircare, the likelihood of finding a hair product more controversial or polarizing than chemical hair relaxers is about slim to none. As far as I know, no other product on the market has been able to create as much of a divide in the Black community between those who choose to embrace their natural hair texture and those who wish to transform it. And yet, at some point, the use of this cream-based product to straighten curly or coily hair has managed to become so ingrained in our culture that the hair process has turned into somewhat of a rite of passage for many Black girls—myself included.

As conversations surrounding relaxers continue to evolve and as we continue to see chemical hair straighteners have a renaissance in the Black community, The Tease felt it was necessary to hear from Black hairstylists about how they feel about the use of relaxers in the salon and the health risks associated with them. Ahead, four Black hair pros talk about their reaction to the news that relaxers have been linked to uterine cancer, why they do or do not offer relaxers as a service, and where they see the need for change when it comes to the use of relaxers in the Black community.

Taylor Augustus, (@healthyslaysbytay)
Founder of Healthy Slays by Tay, LLC

On Her Reaction to Relaxers Being Linked To a Higher Risk of Uterine Cancer in Black Women: “When it comes to the beauty industry, there are so many risks many of us take to achieve a certain look, or for convenience. There are harmful chemicals in a MAJORITY of the services women partake in—gel, acrylic nails, hair bleach, UV lights, lash extensions. The list goes on. Therefore, my initial reaction was… why the focus on relaxers? Aside from acrylics, gel nails, lash extensions, microblading, and things of that sort, relaxers in particular have been a pivotal part of the Black women experience and how they conform to Eurocentric standards—most times for essential reasons (jobs, promotions, etc.). With that said, in my opinion, take your health seriously. We’re all being exposed to cancerous and toxic chemicals on the daily from house cleaners to the chemicals we use on our heads. So, maybe we should focus on living a healthy life, eating healthy foods, and eliminating stress and then we can tackle the rest.”

On Whether Relaxers Are Still a Frequent Request Amongst Her Clientele: “Relaxers are still a frequent request amongst my clients—on average, 10 relaxers a month.”

On How She’s Seen the Demand for Relaxers Change Working in the Salon Industry: “I noticed a big shift away from relaxers after Chris Rock’s documentary on Black hair [called Good Hair]. However, within the last 2-3 years, especially since the pandemic, I’ve noticed the need increasing more.”

On Why She Thinks Black Women Keep Returning to Relaxers: “The same reason fast food is still in business: convenience. Relaxers provide convenience despite obvious health concerns that may be associated with them. Black women are busy and don’t have the time or patience to do 5 hour wash days and twist-outs or braid-outs and such. They don’t have time to keep trying to lay their edges on vacation. They want to relax or tex-lax their edges to relieve the hassle. It’s just like we know getting a Big Mac, fries, and a Diet Coke is wrong, but we’re tired and don’t feel like cooking. That same feeling applies.”

On Her Biggest Concern As a Stylist Who Offers Relaxers as a Service: “My concern is my clients’ overall lifestyle choices. When my clients come in with a problem associated with their hair (dryness, brittleness, shedding, etc.), we troubleshoot and try to find the root of the issue. Some clients have a Vitamin D deficiency, which is very common amongst Black women. My biggest concern is the overall health of their hair, not a specific concentration on relaxers. As I mentioned, if I focus on relaxers being linked to uterine cancer then I would also have to have that same due diligence for any chemical that’s in my salon—from bleach to hair color, everything.”

On Whether She Believes Relaxers Will Continue to Be an Option for Black Women: “I certainly do. I did have one client that opted out of getting a relaxer following the news and 100 percent respected her decision and we just did a silk press. I’ve been doing hair for nine years. My mother owned a salon and did hair for 31 years. I’ve seen A LOT. Usually different articles, documentaries, and news reports come out with “new” studies and people adhere or jump to it for a period, but some of them come back once the hype calms down and settle for a more convenient lifestyle, after realizing that natural hair wasn’t something they could deal with.”

On What It Will Take for the Black Hair Community to Stop Using Relaxers: “Relaxers have their place and I believe there is always going to be a consumer for them. I advocate for healthy hair and truly believe with proper haircare and a healthy lifestyle, you can achieve healthy hair, natural or relaxed.”

On The Changes She Would Like to See Happen With Relaxers in the Black Hair Community: “Personally, I like the idea of texturizers more. With a texturizer, you get the best of both worlds (natural and relaxed) and I’ve noticed more length retention and fullness with texturizers. Maybe that can be a happy medium until creators can create chemical hair straighteners without the risks.”

Tonya Thompson and Sharie Wilson, (@hairbytonya and @iamshariewilson)
Co-Founders of DreamGirls Hair and Salon Brand

On Their Reaction to Relaxers Being Linked To a Higher Risk of Uterine Cancer in Black Women: “It doesn’t surprise us because information about this topic came out in the past. The chemicals they use in relaxers are very harsh and can potentially seep into our pores. What we put on our bodies can affect us just as much as what we put in.”

On Whether Relaxers Are Still a Frequent Request Amongst Their Clientele: “We get a few requests here and there, but we do not offer that service because we feel it’s not beneficial for overall hair health.”

On How They’ve Seen the Demand for Relaxers Change Working in the Salon Industry: “A lot of people are becoming more educated and mindful of what they are putting in and on their bodies. Because of that, we have actually seen a huge decrease in this service over the years. Some people come into our salon with bald spots from thinning or damaged hair over time. Even their scalps are damaged. Through our Healthy Hair Program, we have helped a lot of people grow out their hair that was previously damaged by relaxers.”

On Why They Think Black Women Keep Returning to Relaxers: “There currently is a movement of Black women going back to relaxers. We’re not sure why but we have seen women on social media explaining that relaxers have grown back their hair. We’ve learned that if people train their hair they can achieve the same results without the use of a relaxer. There is no judgment on our end and we understand women choose options that they feel are best for them.”

On How They Approach Working With Clients Who Request Relaxers: “We no longer offer this service because we did not feel right. We chose to remove relaxers from our services and focus on healthy alternatives to help our clients achieve their hair goals. So, first, we inform them we don’t offer this service, and then we share with them the risks before denying services so that we can inform them of what can potentially take place with the consistent use of relaxers. We then present the option of them joining our Healthy Hair Care Program to help restore the overall health of their hair without use of harsh chemicals.”

On Whether They Believe Relaxers Will Continue to Be an Option for Black Women: “Yes, because some people believe the results they receive from relaxers outweigh the risks, or they just flat-out believe that something like that can’t happen to them.”

On What It Will Take for the Black Hair Community to Stop Using Relaxers: “More education and women coming forward who have been directly affected by using relaxers.”
On The Changes She Would Like to See Happen With Relaxers in the Black Hair Community: “We think we need to share more education about the risks on social media platforms from actual professionals. People that push things out on social media more often than not are just regular people that are not truly informed of the health risks of relaxers and therefore can spread false information. It’s important for people to make an educated decision about anything that can lead to potential health risks.”

Mark Anthony, (@markanthonystyles )
Owner of Mark Anthony’s Hair Studio and Suites Atlanta

On His Reaction to Relaxers Being Linked To a Higher Risk of Uterine Cancer in Black Women: “I found that quite odd, because our older generations used relaxers and they were fine. I feel like the use of relaxers without the proper education is the problem.”

On Whether Relaxers Are Still a Frequent Request Amongst His Clientele: “Relaxers are still a frequent request. Actually, I have experienced more women going back to relaxers, for many personal reasons such as manageability and convenience. On a regular basis, I do about 15 relaxers per month.”

On How He’s Seen the Demand for Relaxers Change Working in the Salon Industry: “I saw a decline in relaxers between 2013-2020. Since then, they have been slowly increasing.”

On Why He Thinks Black Women Keep Returning to Relaxers: “There are a lot of things going on in the world, like inflation and the change in families. I feel that women just want their time and money back. There is also much more education about relaxers and when done right, like with anything else, you can cut down on the side effects. Being natural can be very costly when finding the correct products for your hair texture.”

On His Biggest Concern As a Stylist Who Offers Relaxers as a Service: “Educating my clients on the correct technique to apply relaxers and also continuing my education and being in the know of different studies.”

On How He Approaches Working With Clients Who Request Relaxers: “My approach on social [media] about relaxers speaks for itself. So, I feel like when clients do request relaxers, I have already gained their trust.”

On Whether He Believes Relaxers Will Continue to Be an Option for Black Women: “Yes, because natural hair is not for everybody. We can’t dodge what’s destined to happen.”

On What It Will Take for the Black Hair Community to Stop Using Relaxers: “Doing your own research and making your own decisions.”

On The Changes He Would Like to See Happen With Relaxers in the Black Hair Community: “Remove relaxers from retail shelves for at home use.”

Final Thoughts
Regardless of how you feel about relaxers, there’s no denying that there is an increasing body of research confirming that Black women are being put at risk by chemical hair straightening products. Yes, frequent use of relaxers have been linked to a higher risk of uterine cancer in women, particularly Black women, but even researchers have said that more work is needed to verify this association. And there’s still so much that we don’t know—namely which ingredients are safe, which are most relevant to the risk of uterine cancer, and what specific relaxer brands are most harmful.

Let’s face it, relaxers will continue to be a part of the Black experience as long as Black women continue to express a demand for it—that will never change. However, what does need to change is the amount of attention paid to Black women’s health with regards to these types of hair products. Relaxers have been aggressively marketed to Black women for years and yet, little has actually been said from the government or the companies that formulate these products about the safety of these formulations and the potential dangers they pose for a person’s health. This lack of information and education makes it difficult for Black women to make safe decisions about the products they use and how often they use them, leaving many of them at a risk.

It should be noted that one in 12 beauty and personal care products marketed to Black women in the U.S. are found to contain highly hazardous ingredients such as lye, parabens, and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, according to research by the Environmental Working Group. In the case of relaxers, which we already know contain harmful chemicals such as lye, they are not required to be tested or approved by the Food and Drug Administration before they are sold.

Concerns about the safety of chemical relaxers will not be going away anytime soon, so it’s time for the beauty giants who make and market many of the popular relaxer brands, such as Revlon and L’Oreal, to step up and play a more active role in keeping Black female consumers safe. Toxic ingredients that are detrimental to our health need to be removed from hair relaxers that they manufacture and or supply. And, there needs to be more funding into textured hair research and more of a focus on making safer and better formulated products for Black women. Failure to do so might just lead Black women to take matters into their own hands and create the healthy hair relaxers that deserve, but for so long have been denied.
 
@MzSwift bwahahaha!!!

@demlew I honestly think that if you are a person so dedicated to your hair that you're on this site, you can successfully self relax. It takes a special commitment to be hair "crazy" like we are! :D

I only tried to self relax after a ton of research and encouragement from the ladies here. Now i can't even imagine going back to a salon. If you're not comfortable yet, that's totally understandable. But, it's not impossible! :)

I think that the horror stories we hear about self relaxers are because they didn't do their research first. They just bought the kit and slapped it on their weak, brittle hair hoping to get it like the salon. I read and researched for over 2 years before I took the plunge.
 
sunnieb said:
@MzSwift bwahahaha!!!

@demlew I honestly think that if you are a person so dedicated to your hair that you're on this site, you can successfully self relax. It takes a special commitment to be hair "crazy" like we are! :D

I only tried to self relax after a ton of research and encouragement from the ladies here. Now i can't even imagine going back to a salon. If you're not comfortable yet, that's totally understandable. But, it's not impossible! :)

I think that the horror stories we hear about self relaxers are because they didn't do their research first. They just bought the kit and slapped it on their weak, brittle hair hoping to get it like the salon. I read and researched for over 2 years before I took the plunge.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the vote of confidence and you're right, I've been on the board for nearly 16 yrs - surely I've picked up a hint or two! Plus, the lady who does my relaxer is retired from her full-time job and does hair on the side (fully-licensed). Who knows how much longer she'll keep doing it? I should start practicing my application technique with deep conditioner.

Question for everybody: my hair is so matted after being in bed for 5 days. How do I de-mat it? If I have to postpone Thursday's appt in order to fully manipulate my scalp/hair, that would be ok.
 
@demlew

Poor thing! :bighug:

I combed out my locs last year so I know it can be done. Work slowly and work in sections. Take breaks when you need to.

My first advice from years of being on the board is DO NOT WET YOUR HAIR!!

Grab a towel, oils, a rattail comb (preferable one with a skinny metal tip) and lastly, a very slippery condish.

Start with your fingers and part the hair using your fingers. I know ppl like to do quadrants but even that's not enough sections for me when my hair is especially needy. You might need to break those quadrants into quadrants. I prefer to work in rows. Pin or bun the rest of the hair far away from the section I'm working on.

Then in each section you're working on, drench the hair in a heavy slippery oil like EVOO (don't do castor oil, it's too sticky) or Safflower oil, both of which are high in ceramides. Squeeze it into the hair and then rub the section between your fingers from root to tip. Starting at the ends, begin to lightly separate the hair using both hands. If you run into a knot just move up above it and continue to lightly separate. Then go back to the knot and try again to pull apart. I prefer to stick with my hands but this would be the point where you'd break out the tail of the comb to help you work through a difficult knot. With one hand feel for the knot and then hold on to it. With the comb in the other hand, point the metal tail through until it pokes your finger holding the knot. Starting at the very bottom of the knot, stick the tail through it and then wiggle the tail/comb downward toward your ends. Once you get down to the end, go back up and put the tail in again at the bottom of the knot and wiggle it down. Do that over and over again until there is no knot.

Sometimes that will break one big knot into smaller knots and you just have to repeat that process on each smaller one until isn't one left.

Once you're done with that section, drench it in conditioner and then comb through it. Then braid it up and move to the next section.

I hope this is what you meant! GL to you! You can do it!
 
@demlew do everything @MzSwift said to deal with matted hair. I learned the hard way years ago NOT to wet matted hair to detangle.

And I'm with you with the worry about the retiring stylist. In all the years and stylists I had, I remember being lost when the best one moved out of state. I found a lady after her who was pretty good, but she kept moving to different shops.

I love self relaxing because I can depend on me to do my hair the right way and on my schedule. I don't miss my stylist at all.

I will say that I do wish there was a salon that I could go to for a rollerset every once in a while.
 
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