Hair Breakage 101-- just wanted to share!

Thanks Sista- im in search of a new line and a really good moisturizer and I should be bc'ing soon so we'll see how washing 2x per week will help. Thanks again!
 
Hi Sistaslick,

I am new on the forum so I want to say HELLO! to everyone. I have only been lurking a couple of days and had to join. I've read this thread a couple of times and I have a question for you sista. You said you use moisturizers like ORS olive oil and carrot oil. I looked at the ingredients of each and the olive oil has mineral oil and lanolin. Which I think you said earlier in this thread would deposit onto your hair and dry it out??? I'm confused about this. I have Mizani rose H20 cream and I've heard great things but it also has mineral oil in it so now I'm a bit apprehensive. The ORS carrot oil had none of these things in it. What's your take on this?
As well, I have extra virgin olive oil to seal the ends is this a good option??

Thanxs in advance!!!!:) :)
 
Iamnotmyhair said:
Hi Sistaslick,

I am new on the forum so I want to say HELLO! to everyone. I have only been lurking a couple of days and had to join. I've read this thread a couple of times and I have a question for you sista. You said you use moisturizers like ORS olive oil and carrot oil. I looked at the ingredients of each and the olive oil has mineral oil and lanolin. Which I think you said earlier in this thread would deposit onto your hair and dry it out??? I'm confused about this. I have Mizani rose H20 cream and I've heard great things but it also has mineral oil in it so now I'm a bit apprehensive. The ORS carrot oil had none of these things in it. What's your take on this?
As well, I have extra virgin olive oil to seal the ends is this a good option??

Thanxs in advance!!!!:) :)
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum!

Most moisturizers contain some bit of oil to stabilize them and improve their consistency. Heavier oils like lanolin and mineral oil should be "okay" as long as they are not right behind the water in the ingredient list- otherwise, they may get in the way of your moisturizing. Heavier oils can sit on the hair and hinder your moisturizing efforts.

At the beginning of my hair journey, I was pretty firm about no mineral oil whatsoever-- but even then, I always made an exception for ORS olive oil. Nothing really could compare to it for the price in my eyes. I'm guessing the concentration of mineral oil was low to begin with. The best thing is that within the last year or so, the ORS company created another version of the olive oil that substituted the mineral oil for a much more hair-friendly, coconut oil. No mineral oil! This is the one I use now, but it is very difficult to find. :ohwell: It works just as well as the old ORS olive oil, and is cheaper too. :up:

I've experimented with other mineral oil type products, but my hair does not do well with them as a whole. That is why I didn't stay on the Kera Care bandwagon for long. :ohwell: Some people can thrive on mineral oil, and like I said, I even did okay with the old ORS formula, but my hair generally does not respond well to MO.

Its totally okay to experiment with your products though, because nothing here is sound gospel. If you are using something with MO without incident, and it's making your hair feel wonderful-- dont trash it because of what someone else says.:lol: (Especially not that Mizani H20 stuff-- thats expensive!:lachen: ) Give it a fair shot and see if it meets your standards. Now, if you use mineral oil heavy products and feel your hair getting stiff/hard, drier, or never really feeling moisturized (you have to keep going back to moisturize over and over)- you may have a low tolerance for mineral oil. I do recommend clarifying regularly if you have a petrolatum/mineral oil heavy regimen. :yep: This will help fight any possible buildup or moisturizing problems. And if the Mizani doesn't work out for you, you can use it as lotion or something :lol:

and sure! EvOO is great for sealing the ends :up:
 
Sistaslick said:
Welcome to the forum!

Most moisturizers contain some bit of oil to stabilize them and improve their consistency. Heavier oils like lanolin and mineral oil should be "okay" as long as they are not right behind the water in the ingredient list- otherwise, they may get in the way of your moisturizing. Heavier oils can sit on the hair and hinder your moisturizing efforts.

At the beginning of my hair journey, I was pretty firm about no mineral oil whatsoever-- but even then, I always made an exception for ORS olive oil. Nothing really could compare to it for the price in my eyes. I'm guessing the concentration of mineral oil was low to begin with. The best thing is that within the last year or so, the ORS company created another version of the olive oil that substituted the mineral oil for a much more hair-friendly, coconut oil. No mineral oil! This is the one I use now, but it is very difficult to find. :ohwell: It works just as well as the old ORS olive oil, and is cheaper too. :up:


:up:
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That explains the two different jars of this stuff that I found at the BSS lately.

I was gonna post a question about this very different formulations when I ran across this post, quite by accident.

I noticed that they have different ingredients and was wondering why. I even went as far as to ask the owner. All he could do for me was look up the price. :ohwell:

The BSS seems to have a good supply of both in the store. Should I stock up on the older version with Mineral Oil, or should I buy the newer version. I love what the older version does for me and my dd's head. But if the newer version does the same (with different ingredients) then I can use that, too.
 
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rosie said:
That explains the two different jars of this stuff that I found at the BSS lately.

I was gonna post a question about this very different formulations when I ran across this post, quite by accident.

I noticed that they have different ingredients and was wondering why. I even went as far as to ask the owner. All he could do for me was look up the price. :ohwell:

The BSS seems to have a good supply of both in the store. Should I stock up on the older version with Mineral Oil, or should I buy the newer version. I love what the older version does for me and my dd's head. But if the newer version does the same (with different ingredients) then I can use that, too.
Click to expand...

You know, I cannot tell the difference between the two. At all! Those product chemists get an A+ in my book, because the change was seamless. :lol:

I have only seen the older one at every BSS and drugstore I've been to in Houston. The Walmart down the street is the only place I've ever seen the new one, and it is hardly ever in stock. I figured ORS must just be testing the response to the new one, because they do not appear to have stopped making the older version or increased the visibility of the new one. At least not over here yet. :ohwell: I don't have a problem still buying the older version, and since Walmart can't seem to keep a steady supply of the new version, I usually do end up using it until they resupply. I do feel a little better (it's all in the head, trust me) using the MO free one, though.:lol:

They've changed a few of the other ingredients as well (taking out some of the other good stuff like the horsetail, nettle, etc.)-- but I wouldn't have known the difference just using it. I always add my own EO's to it anyway, so I'm still a happy camper. :grin: Try the new one and see if you like it. I'm guessing you more than likely will since it looks and smells just like the old one. :lol: It's cheaper too, so thats a good thing.:lol:
 
Sistaslick said:
As we all know, breakage, growth and hair health go hand in hand-- because with breakage, health and growth potential are greatly reduced.

I've shared this info on the Ezboard site I frequent (and some others), and I've decided to share a bit of what I've been writing with you all too. Some of you will recognize alot of this because I've been saving many of the posts I've done on various boards. Please excuse the millions of typos as well-- I haven't had the chance to go through and truncate the repetition or correct for spelling. Forgive me ahead of time, it is still a work in progress and this is only an excerpt.

I believe this information will help the newbies, and the vets sort out their breakage issues and give them some useful background information so that they can get a better sense of the direction they should aiming product and technique wise. Ladies, feel free to add to this thread. We want to share and provide each other with as much information as possible.

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Breakage and Shedding​

Understanding the difference between breakage and shedding is an important part of any healthy hair regimen. Many people use these terms interchangeably to refer to any hair that falls from the head. In its truest sense, shed hair is hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle and naturally falls from the scalp along with its root attached. The root is a tiny white bulb on the scalp originating end. If a hair does not possess this white bulb, then it is not a naturally shed hair, rather, a broken one. Shed hair tends to be longer in length than broken hairs which are generally short pieces of varying lengths. If you have stretched your relaxer for a great number of weeks, your shed hair will have the curly new growth present on the area next to the bulb, and you will be able to see where the relaxed hair begins. Some find that garlic shampoos or products with garlic extracts help curb shedding. But remember, shedding is a natural, internal process and may not respond to topical, external treatments. So don't be alarmed if nothing works for you. Changes in diet, hormone imbalances, birth control pills, and pregnancy can also affect the rate at which hair is shed.

Breakage on the other hand is not natural, and is an indication of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand. Broken hairs do not fall naturally from the head, but are typically a sign of mishandling or abuse. The proper treatments, will help stop breakage in its tracks.


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Protein and Moisture
​


Scenario 1: Kim's hair is breaking like crazy and feels like a brillo pad. Every time she touches it, pieces seem to just pop right off. Snap, crackle, pop. Combing is impossible without tons of little hairs covering her sink and back. Her hair feels hard and rough even when wet. She's given it protein treatments because the product says its supposed to stop breakage in its tracks and rebuild the hair, but so far nothing is working and her problem is getting worse.

Scenario 2: Trina's hair is breaking like crazy as well. Her hair feels dry, looks dull, and is very weak. Her hair is too weak to withstand simple combing. It feels extra stretchy when wet and almost follows the comb as she pulls through to detangle. She has deep conditioned and done hot oil treatments on her hair once a week. Since her breakage began, she?s stepped up the conditioning but her problem has gotten worse.

Both of these women have issues with breakage, but the solutions to their individual problems require two very different approaches. Before you go shopping for your hair care product arsenal, you must understand the difference between protein and moisture and what they mean for your hair. Protein and moisture are the key cornerstones of great hair care. Maintaining a proper balance between these two entities is critical for the healthiest hair growth possible. The two scenarios above perfectly illustrate what happens when the balance between protein and moisture is tipped too far in either direction. This section will teach you to effectively recognize the difference between protein based and moisture based problems and help you can organize your hair regimen to effectively combat these issues as the arise.


Protein

Protein is what gives the hair its strength and structure. Hair is about 70% keratin protein by nature. Protein is found most prevalently in products like instant conditioners (bargain brands like Suave and V05), leave in conditioners, protein conditioner treatments, and even some moisturizers.


Moisturizers

Moisturizers are products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Water is the ultimate moisturizer so waterbased products are best for really getting the best moisture benefit. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be your conditioners and other water-based products. Moisturizers may also be protein-based, but these protein based moisturizers do not have the moisturizing benefit that moisture-based moisturizers have. Good moisturizers will not contain ingredients like petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. These are cheap product fillers. Be wary of products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants and have the potential to suffocate the hair and scalp and seal out the moisture it needs.

Sealing in your Moisturizers:
Our hair naturally contains moisture, but because our hair is also naturally porous, keeping the moisture inside is a difficult task. Sources of outside moisture, or external moisture supplementation, are a must for black hair. Water molecules and moisture from these supplemental moisturizing products easily pass into the hair shaft, but they pass out just as easily. The moisture you apply needs to held in by something. Oil.
A light coating of oil on top will help seal the moisture inside. Oils are made of large molecules. These molecules are too large to absorbed by the hair strand. Applying oils to the hair and scalp will coat them and trap moisture that is inside on the inside and moisture that is outside on the outside. The key is to lock in the moisture within the strands with your oil. If you use oils without a moisturizer or before one, the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to eventual dryness. This technique of moisturizing and sealing has really been helpful to me and is a resonating hallmark of my regimen. Moisturizing success is all in the order in which you apply your products.

REMEMBER! Oils DO NOT Moisturize.
Perhaps a words like "nourish" would be better than moisturize. If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me to recommend a good oil that moisturizes, I would be rich! Oil alone will not and cannot moisturize within the hair shaft. An oil can only coat the outside of the strand, and give it shine- the illusion of moisture. Again, the molecules that make oil are much too large to penetrate through all of the cuticle layers. The cuticle layers can be as few as 6 layers or many as 15 or more layers thick. Oil molecules are hydro-phobic which means they repel and do not readily mix with water. Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturizing product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate.

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When the Balance Tips, You Must Wet Assess​

Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. Hair is not exempt from this old adage. Growing out your hair is a constant battle between maintaining an even protein and moisture balance. Breakage is the result of the hair chemistry being thrown off balance. Remember Kim and Trina from the beginning of the section? Hair that is shifted too far on either side of the balance (too much protein or too much moisture) will break.



The Importance of Wet Assessment​

Though health assessments can be performed on dry hair, determining your cause of breakage is often easiest on wet hair. Hair in its wet state exudes the basic properties of hair---elasticity and strength, excellently. In fact, these qualities are often exaggerated on wet hair. Thorough and frequent wet assessments will help you maintain your hair's health and condition.

Hair in its optimal condition will not break when wet unless undue stress is placed upon it through aggressive combing or detangling. A balanced and healthy hair strand will stretch and break only under undue, or unusual types of pulling stress. Balanced hair will feel soft and supple, yet strong while wet. When you comb through it when wet, it should resist excess stretching and will hardly break if you are careful. Over time, and with trial and error, you will be able to tell what is normal stress for your hair.
If your hair does indeed break when wet, the way the hair breaks under these conditions will give you a sure indication of whether more moisture or protein is required to regain the proper balance. --continues--
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wouah what amazing hair u hav. i'm french i live in paris and overhere we don't have as good product ass in the US but i was wandering what kind of product do u use on your hair to grow as quick my own hair is very damaged and dry and so i really need your advice. thanks for answering.
 
Thanks! and Welcome to the forum Belinda!

I have my regimen and products listed in the Welcome and About me sections of my hair album on the left hand side menu: www.fotki.com/sistaslick

Check your messages, I'll send you the pw.
 
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Great post...Thanks ever so much.:clapping:
over the last week, i've used Aphogee Treatment for Damaged hair and Fantasia protein reconstructor...My hair has been breaking since (about 1-2inch long babies are all over the house!!). After reading this, i realised i may have given my hair a protein over-load. Currently have le kair cholesterol Plus for Dry hair, Packed into my hair, under a plastic cap and a towel.

:fan:xx
 
BOY OH BOY! Did you just answer TONS of my questions in 1 tip o what!!! OMG....Bless you sistaslick!!! (WE'RE NOT WORTHY!!)
 
Thank you for your post sistaslick !!!

I'm new to this great forum and your help made me learn to listen to my hair. I had constant growth recently but my hair was also shredding. So I realized I was using too much protein.... Thanks again !
 
:rosebud: God bless you for taking the time to put together this info for us! It has really been a life saver (or should I say hair saver) for me......especially since I am now transitioning! :) ;)
 
Thank you very much Sistaslick !!!
This is very helpful and I'm forever grateful to you :) :) :)

Would you allow me to use this information and translate it into french in order to help some relaxed and desperate ladies on a french forum?
I will quote the original text and send a link, but some of them cannot understand english.

I will wait for your authorization before doing anything, it wouldn't honest of me othewise.

Thanks in advance :)
 
Amylee said:
Thank you very much Sistaslick !!!
This is very helpful and I'm forever grateful to you :) :) :)

Would you allow me to use this information and translate it into french in order to help some relaxed and desperate ladies on a french forum?
I will quote the original text and send a link, but some of them cannot understand english.

I will wait for your authorization before doing anything, it wouldn't honest of me othewise.

Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...



Bien sûr! :yep: And thanks for your kind words! . :kiss:
 
Amylee said:
Ooooh you speak french Sista???
Je suis contente !!!
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un peu! :lol: (I'm going to butcher this but) J'ai comprendre seulement s'il est parlé lentement . . .? :scratchch :lachen:

I tried.:lol:

I can read and write it much better than I speak it. I'm from Louisiana, so I've been around a Cajun French influence a bit here and there.:lol: Most of us had to learn french in school, but I'm starting to think we learned the wrong language! America is looking more and more Spanish everyday.:lol: So now, I don't have anyone to use my limited French speaking skills on.:lol:
 
Well, you're doing great, really!!! I'm so happy, now I feel like home.
You can practise your french with me if you want, LOL.

I will tell you how these ladies appreciated your advices. In France, we do not have such knowledge, since all products are for caucasian hair. No one can tell us what we have to do, because no one knows how to take care of black women's hair.

By the way, it's my father's dream to go to Louisiana. We are from French West Indies, so we fell much closer to America than to France sometimes...
 
This is a GREAT thread! This information about protein and moisture fully explains why I have had breakage problems on and off for many, many years. I feel that with this information and the LHCF, in general, I will be able to maintain may length (even with transitioning). :)
 
Hello Sistaslick,

I was experiencing hair shedding to the degree of 100-200 strands per day.I couldn't see any broken strands because I was too mortified by the long strands coming from my scalp. I just went to an excellent stylist in Atlanta who stopped my shedding in its tracks with a protein and moisturizing conditoning treatment.She said that I experienced some hair thinning around my temples.Also, she said that my hair in its wet stage was very healthy.I now notice only 5-10 strands of hairs that have the bulbs on the end but now I see about 15-20 small broken strands.The stylist said that I would need at least 2 more moisturizing treatments in order for my hair to normalize and stop breaking altogether.I just would like to know if I should be worried about breakage now that my shedding is under control.
 
I am fairly new to the site and need help! My hair has been breaking constantly for the last 6 months. I've tried using the info on your thread and like another one of the ladies I was not sure if my hair needs moisture or protein.
I did figure out with the help of another member that my hair is overprocessed. My last relaxer was 8 weeks ago and I don't know how long I need to stretch.:perplexed I have a long list of products that I have been using in my hair. Here is what I have been using and how. I use EvOO to pre poo, NTM shampoo to wash my hair, deep con w/ ORS replenish pak, (the remaining NTM leave-in products). I pull my hair in a ponytail and let airdry, I have only been doing this for a week am I on the right track :confused:
If not please give me some suggestions
 
i just re-read this

my hair is super elastic and getting mushy. i did a 5 in 1 reconstructor while in the shower the other day. that did nothing but made my hair a bit dry... i only used it in the shower so i did not deep condition with it. my hair is still very elastic while wet.

i am deep conditioning with ORS hair mayonaisse right now.

will this help?

i should do a moisturing conditioner afterwards, right?
 
DSylla said:
i just re-read this

my hair is super elastic and getting mushy. i did a 5 in 1 reconstructor while in the shower the other day. that did nothing but made my hair a bit dry... i only used it in the shower so i did not deep condition with it. my hair is still very elastic while wet.

i am deep conditioning with ORS hair mayonaisse right now.

will this help?

i should do a moisturing conditioner afterwards, right?
Click to expand...

Mushy hair sounds like it needs protein. Maybe you need to deep condition with a reconstructor.
 
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