@DVAntDany why are BGC against UFD/MD?
I know that is a lot, but their response is often not a one liner statement. Depending on the questions asked will they even go into all the detail. Sorry to bombard you with what should have been a simple answer. Some of this is based off of inference and other blatant statements made by the BGC founders directly.
We can safely assume that the wash and go is the quintessential and foundational hairstyle of BGC. It requires perfect hydration for curls and coils to blossom unlike hairstyles such as twist outs and slick back ponies/buns. Knowing this background I guess will help make it all make sense.
They say that MD does the following 3 things: 1.can weaken the set (reduce the hold), 2.produce buildup and 3.cause dehydration from long term use.
1. Mousse by itself as used for a wash and go does not last that long unless one has very silky hair. Putting mousse as a topper reduces the hold of a gel therefor reducing the length of time one is able to wear a set. So using a product that makes you have to restyle your hair more often goes against their weekly wash hour promotion.
2. They say that MD is a high performance styling foam. Buildup forming ingredients and properties are in its nature of design. This means stronger shampoos will be needed more frequently. This is a questionable subject. BGC pushes using the moisturizing shampoo weekly if you are hydrated. Then using an AP shampoo monthly, and using a clarifying shampoo as needed. Some of the BGC stylists feel that an AP shampoo like AG Balance and clarifying shampoos can be too strong for some to use on a regular basis.
However, some of the stylist are okay with AP shampoos every week. They do the 2 shampoo route of an AP followed by a moisturizing one. They overall say that using too strong of a shampoo too often can lift the cuticles and cause damage.
I agree mousses cause buildup. I can not cowash them out. I need shampoo. Moisturizing shampoo only works for so long. A stronger shampoo would need to be used on a routine basis because of buildup.
3. So how can MD cause dehydration for wash and goes but are the preferred method for twist outs and slick backs? We have to assume wash and goes require a higher hydration level. What they push is that botanical gels draw and hold water to the hair unlike foam. Dehydrate hair needs this extra moisture even more. Foam will not help with that. Also, botanical gels are often water soluble and don't need stronger shampoo to remove it. They also take a longer time to build up.
What gets me is that they are okay with Trepadoras two gel options, ICH and several other mousses but not MD. They literally refer to PS and BG as plastics in more recent times. They say that it is okay to remove these two "plastics" with only moisturizing shampoo. I can only assume that they are more easy to wash out. Im guessing if using moisturizing shampoos are not enough to remove the buildup of MD, then the hair will start experiencing dehydration. Or maybe using stronger shampoos more often causes dryness and reduces hydration. They say to monitor the hair for any signs of poor water or product absorption.
This is the schedule they push for wash and gos when using water soluble base gel with a topper. Use a moisturizing shampoo for 3 weeks. On the 4th week use an all purpose shampoo. This cleansing routine is meant to reduce the need to clarify often. They state that there should be no need to clarify before 6 to 8 weeks.
So to use MD as a topper for a wng, one must decide if she will deal with buildup or potentially over cleanse her hair. How can one decipher if they have buildup vs over cleansed hair? Buildup will feel like there is something always on the hair. Water does not penetrate or takes longer to penetrate. Over cleansed hair will feel roughened up, be harder to hydrate and feel like nothing is on the hair in a bad way. I cant not fully agree with that, but that is a whole other discussion.