RELAXER STRETCHERS: What causes relaxers to underprocess?

hillytmj

Well-Known Member
This is a long post about underprocessed/texlaxed difficult to manage hair.

I am so frustrated right now! I have been on my hair journey since Aug. 2008, and I've done everything recommended: stretching relaxers to at least 8 weeks, no combing except wash day, moisture/seal ends, reduce trims, no direct heat, etc. I have had great results; however, my biggest complaint is that I have several textures in my hair due to underprocessed relaxers.

I never, ever used to have this problem until I got a weave. I think the relaxer didn't fully take after I took the weave out (I had about 3-4 inches of new growth) so now that underprocessed hair is on my ends. I've tried everything in my power to avoid doing a corrective, but I'm finding more underprocessed sections throughout my hair. The problem is that my underprocessed hair is tangled and extremely dry. My grandma retouched me last night, and the breakage was awful; not due to the relaxer (she did the new growth only), but due to the comb pulling through these various textures. I seriously lost a lot of hair unneccessarily! (I'm a ride or die rollersetter).

What causes a relaxer to underprocess?
-Is it heavily oiled hair? Prior to LHCF I didn't use a lot of moisture or oil, and I've heard a lot of ladies on the board say they coat their ends prior to relaxing to prevent overprocessing. Could this be what's causing me to repeatedly underprocess?

Prior to my haircare journey, I never had this problem. My grandma wants to do a corrective; however, she insists on pulling the relaxer all the way THROUGH THE ENDS FOR EVERY RETOUCH :blush: :blush::blush:! I haven't let her do that because I read that's bad and can lead to breakage, but she insists it won't be bad because she'll rinse it out quickly. She does this to my aunt with no breakage problems, but my aunt has finer 3b/3c hair, so I don't know if that makes a difference compared to my 4a hair.

I know I'm venting, but I'm frustrated because I feel like I'm doing everything right but I'm still getting this breakage due to the different textures. Washing/detangling my hair is half the battle; daily maintenance consists of weighing my hair down with lots of moisture to get it to lay down and stop frizzing/tangling (since I don't use direct heat regularly). The easiest time i've had with my underprocessed hair is when I wore a flat iron style for two weeks (no frizz, tangles or breakage), but I don't want to risk longterm damage from regular use of direct heat.

I'm starting to think a corrective relaxer may be inevitable, but I want to stop whatever I'm doing that's causing me to repeatedly underprocess. I don't want to get a corrective every touchup.

Help!!!
 
i was in the exact same position 3 months ago (the cause being in a weave and then retouching, ur EXACT position). after weeks of contemplating on if a corrective would/would not cause more damage, i gave in cuz i could NOT deal with the three of four different textures anymore. i have to say a corrective was the best decision ive made in relation to my hair in a LONGGG time. i say go ahead and get the corrective. try a texturizer (thats what my stylist gave me) and my hair came out absolutely PERFECT. even though i got the corrective done a few months ago im still looking in the mirror smiling like i just got it done.
 
i was in the exact same position 3 months ago (the cause being in a weave and then retouching, ur EXACT position). after weeks of contemplating on if a corrective would/would not cause more damage, i gave in cuz i could NOT deal with the three of four different textures anymore. i have to say a corrective was the best decision ive made in relation to my hair in a LONGGG time. i say go ahead and get the corrective. try a texturizer (thats what my stylist gave me) and my hair came out absolutely PERFECT. even though i got the corrective done a few months ago im still looking in the mirror smiling like i just got it done.

Thanks for the encouragement. Just think, I've been avoiding the corrective for at least 9 months, but it's been texlaxed in portions for about two years. I read another thread about this and the lady said her hair was all or nothing, either natural or relaxed. The multiple textures didn't work for her either.
 
I'm sorry, I also HATE being underprocessed! It happens to me a lot when I stretch. I have no advice to offer though...
:bighug:
 
I'm sorry, I also HATE being underprocessed! It happens to me a lot when I stretch. I have no advice to offer though...
:bighug:
That's why I'm wondering if all the moisture, moisture, moisture that is required for stretching hinders the relaxer process. But on the other hand, if you don't do a lot of moisture, you risk dryness and breakage when you relax. Hmmm...:rolleyes:
 
I definitely see what you're saying I also noticed that some people relax with stronger relaxers after a long stretch, like I think slyver2 uses super for bone straight hair after 6 months or 1 year
Maybe that helps too
 
I wash my hair 1 week before a relaxer (including a clarifier followed by a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner) and don't use anything on my hair for an entire week. No oils, no moisturizers, etc. You want as little product as possible on your hair when you relax.
 
not the right strength relaxer
not smoothing newgrowth properly or thoroughly
not leaving in for the correct time, some hair needs less time while other hair needs the relaxer in for a min or 2 longer, sometimes after stretches I notice my hair needs the relaxer left on a lil' longer.

the relaxers need to be smoothed and applied properly at the right strengths for a persons hair type in order to avoid underprocessing or even overprocessing (using too strong a relaxer leaving on too long).

also for the smoothing using the back end of the rat tail comb not the teeth smooths the hair well avoiding pulling and breaking the newgrowth/hair.

hth for future relaxers.
 
It'd love to find out why this is as well. My hair has been underprocessed for the last three relaxers. It looks fine when I leave the salon but the minute I wash it it curls up. It feels like such a waste of time and energy even relaxing it at times.

I think we definately need the moisture. Hair should be in optimum condition before a relaxer. I'd say get a corrective. I haven't because I don't self relax - I'm new to relaxing so a bit scared! My ends are straight and that is because the relaxer strength was stronger and it was left on for longer. I was experiencing some burning though so I asked for a milder relaxer and that's when my hair got underprocessed.
 
I feel you girl. My relaxers (march and june) have been under processed since starting my hhj. I also stretched (for 14wks) and couldn't find out what was the problem. I got fed up with the different textures also so I went to a professional at the end of my stretched (Oct 3rd) and told her about my journey. She told me about the relaxers she had in stock and what results they would give me. Then she suggested that I use designers touch because it will leave my hair silky. I opted to use designers touch and she proceeded to base my scalp and took her time relaxing. She kept asking if it burnt and I told her no along the way. This chick miraculously relaxed my hair and my lawd it felt like silk! She mentioned how strong and healthy my hair was and to keep doing what I'm doing. I ended up paying $90 (because I asked for a dc and trim) but it was so worth it.
Long story short. Seek a professional that is willing to sit down with you and discuss what results you want and who's looking out for the overall health of your hair.
Hope I helped...a little.
 
I agree with getting a corrective relaxer by a professional. I was under relaxed this summer and had to get a corrective. I waited six weeks after the relaxer to go back in for a corrective.

I think my problem with being under-processed was that I had applied Chi Silk Infusion to my hair including the new growth a couple of days before my touch-up. And this caused me to be under-processed. (I read about applying silk protein to your hair before a relaxer in a LHCF thread; One more proof that everything don't work for everybody.)

I think having moisturized hair shouldn't cause under-processeing. I usually don't wash my hair for about 7 days before a relaxer. But I have to keep it well moisturized those 7 days.

HTH some.
 
I wash my hair 1 week before a relaxer (including a clarifier followed by a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner) and don't use anything on my hair for an entire week. No oils, no moisturizers, etc. You want as little product as possible on your hair when you relax.


^^^
I did this as well. Maybe that's why it took. I used the PC shampoo and condish after I took my install out and kept my hair on a pony until my hair appt. I think I put a little coconut oil in my hair. That's something I did different with this relaxer than the others that didn't take. To help with the combing process after the wash I used Mane n Tail's detangler which was heaven sent.
 
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First off I hope you girls dont mean youve been relaxing right AFTER taking out a weave, if so please dont repeat such = major damage for hair. Wait at leats 2 weeks after removing a weave. I usually wait about 4

Also the week before a relaxer, use a strong clarifying shampoo, dc and all. But other than that, dont add much to your during that time else you'll more than likely end up underprocessed
 
Great thread! Im a texlaxer and I underprocessed last touch-up. I will not be adding CHI Silk Infusion to my relaxer mix next time to see the results. Thanks ladies.
 
when I did have a relaxer what helped with underprocessing was during the last wash before I do the relaxer. Iused porosity control and then deep conditioner.

It really seemed to help the relaxer take afterwards.
 
My experience, coz I wear braids quite a bit:
The hair has been physically coiled for months and months, is more resistant, and is in a shrunken state. So what looks like 1" of new growth is really 2", so you apply 1" of creme, and then 5 minutes later the hair stretches to 2" and drinks up all the relaxer, and now you suddenly don't have enough. This happened to me, and I bit the bullet and did a corrective. My hair was fine. I did a swift corrective though, praying as I went.

I generally apply way more relaxer than I think I need because of this stretch factor. I use the same strength (mild). The method, though, is almost like with a virgin relaxer. If you watch one being applied on Youtube, they do it in 2 stages: the hair that's not near the scalp, then they pull and stretch, then they apply it to the hair closest to the scalp (relaxes faster from body heat), then they smooth it. It does take slightly longer.

Basically what I'm saying is that you're getting an uneven job on one strand as it stretches out farther than your anticipation, but the rest of that strand is relaxed. You rinse out, and get that caterpillar look.
 
My experience, coz I wear braids quite a bit:
The hair has been physically coiled for months and months, is more resistant, and is in a shrunken state. So what looks like 1" of new growth is really 2", so you apply 1" of creme, and then 5 minutes later the hair stretches to 2" and drinks up all the relaxer, and now you suddenly don't have enough. This happened to me, and I bit the bullet and did a corrective. My hair was fine. I did a swift corrective though, praying as I went.

I generally apply way more relaxer than I think I need because of this stretch factor. I use the same strength (mild). The method, though, is almost like with a virgin relaxer. If you watch one being applied on Youtube, they do it in 2 stages: the hair that's not near the scalp, then they pull and stretch, then they apply it to the hair closest to the scalp (relaxes faster from body heat), then they smooth it. It does take slightly longer.

Basically what I'm saying is that you're getting an uneven job on one strand as it stretches out farther than your anticipation, but the rest of that strand is relaxed. You rinse out, and get that caterpillar look.

Wow, that is an awesome explanation. It makes total sense to me.
 
This was very helpful as I too am under processed, thank you!! I wanted to add something the Chi silk infusion is not supposed to be added to the relaxer or to the entire length of your hair before the perm it is only to be added to the portion of your hair that is relaxed already to protect it from over processing and damage. I add aphogee 2 step and it works fine I know other ladies buy an expensive type of silk protein and add it in do a search on sistaslick's relaxer thread and you can read more about it. Hope this helps. Trendsetta25 where did you go to get you corrective done because i am thinking about getting one done too and I am looking for a place also what hair type do you have PM me please
 
This was very helpful as I too am under processed, thank you!! I wanted to add something the Chi silk infusion is not supposed to be added to the relaxer or to the entire length of your hair before the perm it is only to be added to the portion of your hair that is relaxed already to protect it from over processing and damage.

Hmm..I think that I will mix some Moist. Conditioner, Porosity control conditioner, and CHI Silk Infusion to the previously relaxed hair only when I decide to relax again...can't decide if I want to stretch again or go completely natural.

Also, when relaxing, be sure to use a enough relaxer to cover all of your new growth. I remember being underprocessed from not using enough relaxer. I saw better results the next time I relaxed with a heavy hand. It was a much smoother result.:yep:
 
I recently found out that the key for ME not being underprocessed it to put alloootttt of creme on the newgrowth. I used to apply sparingly, but now i generously apply my relaxer on my new growth. I wait a bit, and then I go back and smooth with the back of a comb. With this method, I find that I only have to smooth each section once. The extra cream does its work in record time. Works like a charm for me:yep:
 
Hmm..I think that I will mix some Moist. Conditioner, Porosity control conditioner, and CHI Silk Infusion to the previously relaxed hair only when I decide to relax again...can't decide if I want to stretch again or go completely natural.

Also, when relaxing, be sure to use a enough relaxer to cover all of your new growth. I remember being underprocessed from not using enough relaxer. I saw better results the next time I relaxed with a heavy hand. It was a much smoother result.:yep:


Yes Yes and Yes!:yep:
 
Here are the things that usually cause underprocessed relaxers for ME:
-Too much NG and the person applying it doesn't have the patience and/or skill to go all the way through it.
-My hair wasn't properly detangled prior to application.
-The relaxer wasn't applied to my coarser areas first (which tend to be the areas that get underprocessed.)
-Product/-cone build-up


I've also read that having abnormally acidic hair can cause underprocessed relaxers. This usually results from one's diet.
 
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