Posted by Supergirl previous post in 8-11-2003 7:58pm
All proteins are strengthening proteins to some degree but here are the more specific characteristics of these proteins--
Collagen Protein--known for increasing elasticity in the hair
Silk Protein--known for softening the hair
Wheat Protein--a moisturizing and strengthening protein. known for increasing the hair's ability to maintain & receive moisture also.
Keratin Protein--responsible for keeping the hair strong and pliable. This is the strongest of the(hair product) proteins and is actually the one that hair is made from. This one re-structures hair that has been damaged or broken down by chemicals. It helps to replace the amino acid cysteine which is the main one lost during chemical processing. This is the heavy duty protein. If you see the following as an ingredient
*Keratin protein--this will re-structure and strengthen the hair cuticle (the outer layer only & the most important layer)
*Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein or Keratin Amino Acids--this means that the Keratin molecules have been broken down and are small enough to go beyond the cuticle and penetrate the hair shaft. It will strengthen all 3 layers of the hair. That is why the term "deep conditioning" technically only refers to this kind of treatment using penetrating proteins.
*Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin--This is an exact match for the keratin your hair has (or has lot due to chemical processing). This is the highest quality and most potent keratin that can be used in hair products.
Posted by plzgrow 4-28-2006
Here is a handy guide for understanding the different types of protein products.
All proteins are strengthening proteins to some degree but here are the more specific characteristics of these proteins:
Collagen Protein--known for increasing elasticity in the hair
Silk Protein--known for softening the hair
Wheat Protein--a moisturizing and strengthening protein. known for increasing the hair's ability to maintain & receive moisture also.
Keratin Protein--responsible for keeping the hair strong and pliable. This is the strongest of the(hair product) proteins and is actually the one that hair is made from. This one re-structures hair that has been damaged or broken down by chemicals. It helps to replace the amino acid cysteine which is the main one lost during chemical processing. This is the heavy duty protein. If you see the following as an ingredient
*Vegetable protein -- Vegetable protein absorbs more easily into the hair shaft [than animal protein] and does not create build-up, leaves the hair very shiny, radiant, luxuriant, and healthy.
*Animal protein -- Animal protein breaks down into fatty acids, which coat the hair and create residual build-up.
Silk Amino Acids/Protein--Natural silk is the strongest, natural fiber known to mankind. Discovered in Japan and has been used for centuries in all kinds of products that require durability. Silk has a tiny molecule that can penetrate the entire hair shaft deeper than all other proteins without adding any weight leaving the hair feeling clean and non-greasy
Keratin protein More Indept:
*a) Keratin protein--this will re-structure and strengthen the hair cuticle (the outer layer only & the most important layer)
The keratin in some reconstructors should not leave your hair hard like the Aphogee Treatment for damaged hair (which contains hydrolyzed animal protein). This treatment hardens on your hair for a reason and is used with mild heat. A moisturizing conditioner is a must with this in order to soften like Keracare's humecto.
Reconstructors that contain keratin and other proteins are supposed to have enough moisture to soften the hair therefore leaving your hair with a nice protein/moisture balance."
* Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein or Keratin Amino Acids--this means that the Keratin molecules have been broken down and are small enough to go beyond the cuticle and penetrate the hair shaft. It will strengthen all 3 layers of the hair. That is why the term "deep conditioning" technically only refers to this kind of treatment using penetrating proteins.
*c) Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin--This is an exact match for the keratin your hair has (or has lot due to chemical processing). This is the highest quality and most potent keratin that can be used in hair products.
**All of this information was provided by previous members above
I think some are misunderstanding what a protein treatment is and are incorrectly "labeling" certain conditioners as protein treatments. (example: someone referred to ORS Replenishing as a protein conditioner--it isn't) A protein treatment is usually specifically called such or it may be called a reconstructor. There are a few other terms that are synonymous with "protein treatment."
Many of your moisturizing conditioners will contain protein. This is a GOOD thing. For the hair cannot hold the moisture in without sufficient protein.
I hope this will provide some clarity if anyone has been confused and I hope this will make choosing conditioners an easy and stress free task.
I agree! Just about everything marketed for ethnic/textured hair contains some amount of protein. SG is right. The hair needs protein to accept moisture. Protein shores up the holes and weak spots along the cuticle- so if your hair is properly "proteinated" (is that even a word? ), it will be able to hold onto the moisture you give it much better. Patching up the "holes" is very important for moisture retention. To me, ORS replenishing pak is a light protein-based conditioner, not a treatment.
This is way I've always understood the conditioners vs. treatments/reconstructors thing-
There are conditioners with protein in them, with such low concentrations of proteins relative to moisturizers and humectants, that they give an overall moisturizing effect. Humecto and CON Nourishing conditioner are both conditioners that contain protein, but yield an overall moisturizing benefit. So, though they contain protein-- they are still considered moisturizing conditioners.
The next level would be protein-based or "protein rich" conditioners. These are regular conditioners that contain higher amounts of protein, relative to their moisturizing and humectant-like agents. These conditioners are generally more "surface-acting", contain larger protein molecules, and yield less dramatic results than “reconstructors. †Protein-based conditioners rinse away/wear off easily in a few days/washes because they do not penetrate the cuticle layers deeply. LeKair Cholesterol, ORS Replenishing pak, and Mane N Tail come to mind for examples. Because their formulas do contain moisturizing/conditioning agents, a moisturizing conditioner may not need to be used afterward.
The final level would be the treatments/reconstructors. These contain the highest amounts of protein compared to moisturizing agents, and offer very little actual conditioning. The results of reconstructors are usually more dramatic and longer lasting than protein-based conditioners, because they tend to contain concentrated, smaller hydrolized proteins that can penetrate and bind to the cuticle layers a little more deeply. These also vary in protein concentration compared to one another, but as a whole tend to contain more protein than everyday protein-based conditioners. Aphogee 2 Min Keratin reconstructor is an example of a light end reconstructor, and of course the Treatment for Damaged hair is on the heavy end. Because their sole job is to "repair" and/or "reconstuct" these treatments don't offer much in the way of conditioning, and usually have to be followed by moisturizing conditioner.
The protein concentrations, size, and type are what separate the “treatments/reconstructors†from the regular protein-based conditioners, and other conditioners that contain protein but aren’t necessarily protein conditioners. Thats what I think anyway.
Can you please recommend other good protein reconstructors besides Aphogee? And here I thought I was doing a protein treatment evertime I used my mane n tail and motions cpr.
Thanks for the information ladies!
Where does AO GPB fall into all of these? It contains glycoprotein but it is WAY down on the ingredient list. I have been using it weekly as my protein treatment. I am scared of the hardcore treatments.
INGREDIENTS: Coconut fatty acid cream base, organic aloe vera, wheat germ oil, milk protein, organic rosemary oil, organic sage oil, horsetail extract, coltsfoot extract, nettle extract, glycoprotein, balsam oil, Aubrey's Preservative (citrus seed extract, vitamins A, C and E).
For more clarity:
Is it a protein treatment?
Motions CPR--YES
Motions Moisture Silk Protein--YES
ORS Olive Oil--NO
Kenra Intensive Emollient--NO
Cholesterol Conditioners--NO
Elucence Extended Moisture Repair--YES (though the name says moisture)
Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair--YES*
Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor--YES
Joico K-Pak--YES (not starred, but I'd consider this semi-hardcore)
ORS Mayo--NO
Dudley DRC--YES*
Ultra Sheen Duotex--YES*
Nexxus Keraphix--YES
Nexxus Emergencee--YES*
Dudley Cream Protein--YES
*=hardcore, though there are different levels of hardcority (like my word?) For example, a hardcore with keratin or animal protein is going to be stronger than one with collagen.
Notice that the one with the stars are all products that come in liquid form. They are so potent because they are straight protein (a few stabilizers and preservatives) with no creams and emollients to get in the way. The protein goes straight on your hair strand unobstructed by other ingredients.
Now, let's talk about what's really sad--I've used all of the above except 3!
Can you please recommend other good protein reconstructors besides Aphogee? And here I thought I was doing a protein treatment evertime I used my mane n tail and motions cpr.