Luscious Healthy Ends Challenge 2023

[Chicoro]

I’m currently in mini-twists. Here’s what led to it and what I learned:

-my hair goes through a growth and thickening phase each quarter
-during the second month of the growth phase, my hair starts tangle more, due to longer hairs forming ssks or just tangling around shorter hairs
-mini-twists keeps my ends from forming ssks
-I need to keep my extra moisturized to minimize shed hair tangling
-I can stretch my wash to 10 days; I redo the mini-twists every two weeks, so far

Here’s a photo of the first install:

Is this style done with natural hair? Or, have you had some hair added to the twists?

 

[keranikki]

Is this style done with natural hair? Or, have you had some hair added to the twists?

My mini-twists are done on natural hair.

 

[snoop]

I’m currently in mini-twists. Here’s what led to it and what I learned:

-my hair goes through a growth and thickening phase each quarter
-during the second month of the growth phase, my hair starts tangle more, due to longer hairs forming ssks or just tangling around shorter hairs
-mini-twists keeps my ends from forming ssks
-I need to keep my extra moisturized to minimize shed hair tangling
-I can stretch my wash to 10 days; I redo the mini-twists every two weeks, so far

Here’s a photo of the first install:

Your twists are so juicy! I love the shine!!!

 

[Chicoro]

My mini-twists are done on natural hair.

Okay, thanks for clarifying. I asked because those twists don't look 'mini' to me. Your twists look super long. They are quite lovely to see, too.

 

[Chicoro]

Not about luscious ends but about luscious hairlines.

Impressive story and photo proof of a man who grew back his hair after experiencing a receding hairline. This pertains to male pattern baldness and this man is caucasian. But, his solution is process based and his results are fabulous. See video below.


Goal: Block DHT and put your hair back into a Growth Stage (For male pattern baldness)

• Minoxodil 5% w/v
• Finistride(chemical)- He prefers natural saw palmetto (500 mg dose per day)- Saw Palmetto naturally blocks DHT blocker internally)
• Biotin 10,000 MCG (DHT blocker internally)
• Magnesium 400 mgs
• Zinc 30 mgs
• Vitamin C 500 to 1,000 mgs per day (Not stated in video but listed in description box of video.)
• Shampoo and Conditioners
  • Hims​
  • Keeps​

Styling product: Keeps Thickening Pomade:



YouTube:

How I Naturally Regrew My Receding Hairline In 12 Months​

by Tomlancepete

 

[GettingKinky]

Once my hair was fully dry my results post Epres are my standard results. It just looked a little off when it was about 80% dry after diffusing

 

[keranikki]

Your twists are so juicy! I love the shine!!!

Thank you!

 

[keranikki]

Okay, thanks for clarifying. I asked because those twists don't look 'mini' to me. Your twists look super long. They are quite lovely to see, too.

Thank you!

 

[Mapleoats]

I'm seeing really great results so far with my clay wash challenge and I've only done two clay washes. adding clay to my regimen has helped reduce my frizz and tangling, improved curl definition and elongation and overall made my hair so much more manageable. I never thought my hair was unmanageable before but now washing and detangling it is like nothing. I can finger detangle now which was not something I could do before. My hair feels softer and absorbs water better too. Clay washes are like magic for my hair and I will never be without them in my regimen now. I also suspect it could replace my monthly chelating treatment but the verdict is still out on that.

June I washed with clay bi weekly (every other wash). For July I am going to up the ante and try washing with clay every week (every wash) to see if my results improve. If not I'll go back to biweekly clay washes.

as a side note. I think I unlocked something in my hair care thought process when I decided to try clay washes. I had a very specific problem in mind (frizz/tangling) and a clear hypothesis (defined curls have less frizz and tangling) which lead me to incorporate clay washes (which are known to improve curl definition). In the past ive tried different methods and trends just because of popularity and it working for other people, without questioning if it's what my hair really needed. What I need to do is assessing what specific issues I have with my hair and what tools and techniques I can try to resolve them.

 

[Chicoro]

I'm seeing really great results so far with my clay wash challenge and I've only done two clay washes. adding clay to my regimen has helped reduce my frizz and tangling, improved curl definition and elongation and overall made my hair so much more manageable. I never thought my hair was unmanageable before but now washing and detangling it is like nothing. I can finger detangle now which was not something I could do before. My hair feels softer and absorbs water better too. Clay washes are like magic for my hair and I will never be without them in my regimen now. I also suspect it could replace my monthly chelating treatment but the verdict is still out on that.

June I washed with clay bi weekly (every other wash). For July I am going to up the ante and try washing with clay every week (every wash) to see if my results improve. If not I'll go back to biweekly clay washes.

as a side note. I think I unlocked something in my hair care thought process when I decided to try clay washes. I had a very specific problem in mind (frizz/tangling) and a clear hypothesis (defined curls have less frizz and tangling) which lead me to incorporate clay washes (which are known to improve curl definition). In the past ive tried different methods and trends just because of popularity and it working for other people, without questioning if it's what my hair really needed. What I need to do is assessing what specific issues I have with my hair and what tools and techniques I can try to resolve them.

Bravo! Congratulations! You have arrived. I always say afro textured hair care is a THINKING game, not a guessing game.
(See bolded information in your original post!)

 

[Mapleoats]

Bravo! Congratulations! You have arrived. I always say afro textured hair care is a THINKING game, not a guessing game.
(See bolded information in your original post!)

Yes I am very excited about this! Learning to listen and assess my hair is the real game changer. The next few things I will be looking to asses

1. what is the major contributor to breakage for ME?
2. what is the major contributor to split ends for ME?

for 1 I personally believe it's mechanical damage from manipulating my hair in a tangled state. Hoping to see reduced breakage as I continue my clay wash journey and that's what I'll be keeping a closer eye on next month with weekly clay washes.

for 2 I need to gather more data but I think it's wise to focus on one thing at a time

 

[Chicoro]

Thought provoking video. She says she 'seals' her ends with protein immediately after a trim. I think her hair is 45 to 50 inches long.

 

[VinDieselsWifey]

Thought provoking video. She says she 'seals' her ends with protein immediately after a trim. I think her hair is 45 to 50 inches long.

I trim my hair after flat ironing so I wonder if using a keratin oil or the Olaplex or K18 hair oils would do the same thing?

 

[Chicoro]

I trim my hair after flat ironing so I wonder if using a keratin oil or the Olaplex or K18 hair oils would do the same thing?

Unfortunately, I don't know at this time.

 

[Lylddlebit]

Thought provoking video. She says she 'seals' her ends with protein immediately after a trim. I think her hair is 45 to 50 inches long.

This makes sene to me. I alway do hair treatments on the wash days before and after I trim because I trim straightened hair. Before my 2020 setback my ends were pretty awesome. I would only have to trim for uniformity not because my hair was in bad condition. That was the case whether I was trimming every 6 months or 2 months. I wasn't necessarily thinking of sealing vulnerable ends, but the concept makes sense.

 

[Chicoro]

Thought provoking video. She says she 'seals' her ends with protein immediately after a trim. I think her hair is 45 to 50 inches long.

@Lylddlebit and @VinDieselsWifey ,

The one thing that I do know to be super important is that the scissors you use to trim the hair need to be super sharp and only used for cutting your hair. That is the first thing that one can absolutely control. If you use dull scissors you may get a cut that tears the hair fiber and leaves the precious inner cortex exposed or jutting out from the hair strand or tear the hair. This is why I would never use a razor on afro hair that you intend to grow to longer lengths. It cuts the hair strand and leaves a jagged edge, exposing a maximum amount of inner cortex on the hair strand. Not good. (See image of rzor cut hair strand at end of my post.)




Regarding treating the 'wound' on the hair due to trimming or cutting the hair, as stated by the lady in the video I posted, I'm not sure. I do know that certain products form bonds and bridges over the hair strand but most are temporary. Albeit temporary, those bridges and bonds are a type of 'seal' as stated by the women in the video.

I know that Olaplex is not a protein and she specifically mentioned amino acids and proteins as the sealants that she uses. For me, I tend to trim after I press my hair. Usually, after I press my hair I too do some kind of protein treatment, usually Aphogee Two Step.

Based upon these two points, detailed in the above first two, aforementioned paragraphs, I have been doing what she suggested after a trim, but my intention or focus was on protecting and sealing the hair due to the intense heat applied during the straightening process. I never thought about sealing the hair due to the trim because of trying to heal a wound. I do think about sealing the hair after a cut to maintain split-free, healthy ends, though.

 

[VinDieselsWifey]

I found some hair serums that have keratin in them. I always do a protein treatment before and after flat ironing but I wear my flat ironed hair for at least a week before I wash & protein treat it. The keratin serum could seal my ends until I wash it again.

 

[Chicoro]

I found some hair serums that have keratin in them. I always do a protein treatment before and after flat ironing but I wear my flat ironed hair for at least a week before I wash & protein treat it. The keratin serum could seal my ends until I wash it again.

Yes, you can!

 

[Lylddlebit]

@Lylddlebit and @VinDieselsWifey ,

The one thing that I do know to be super important is that the scissors you use to trim the hair need to be super sharp and only used for cutting your hair. That is the first thing that one can absolutely control. If you use dull scissors you may get a cut that tears the hair fiber and leaves the precious inner cortex exposed or jutting out from the hair strand or tear the hair. This is why I would never use a razor on afro hair that you intend to grow to longer lengths. It cuts the hair strand and leaves a jagged edge, exposing a maximum amount of inner cortex on the hair strand. Not good. (See image of rzor cut hair strand at end of my post.)




Regarding treating the 'wound' on the hair due to trimming or cutting the hair, as stated by the lady in the video I posted, I'm not sure. I do know that certain products form bonds and bridges over the hair strand but most are temporary. Albeit temporary, those bridges and bonds are a type of 'seal' as stated by the women in the video.

I know that Olaplex is not a protein and she specifically mentioned amino acids and proteins as the sealants that she uses. For me, I tend to trim after I press my hair. Usually, after I press my hair I too do some kind of protein treatment, usually Aphogee Two Step.

Based upon these two points, detailed in the above first two, aforementioned paragraphs, I have been doing what she suggested after a trim, but my intention or focus was on protecting and sealing the hair due to the intense heat applied during the straightening process. I never thought about sealing the hair due to the trim because of trying to heal a wound. I do think about sealing the hair after a cut to maintain split-free, healthy ends, though.

Most definitely. I have been using Tweezerman shears faithfully since '05(I actually still have the pair I bought in '05 lol even though I have grinders at my house now instead of needing to send them in). They are inexpensive, work well and qualify to be resharpened if you send them in. I also have a few pairs of higher end steel shears that I have snagged on clearance. One day I will get the Japanese steel pair...just need the right deal to justify it lol. Anyhoo, I keep my shears sharp and only use them in my hair, so, they work as intended.

It makes sense than any portion of the exposed hair would be vulnerable weather the blunt ends or the outer cuticle is in question, so I don't mind giving it that extra TLC during my wash days. I only use protein intermittently once ever 2-6 months but regular treatments(of mostly of moisture or builders) work well on the strands and ends. Like you, my method is to counteract the heat and environmental damage, post press or to prepare my hair prestyle. That said, I accept all the benefits those steps yield lol.

 

[Chicoro]

Most definitely. I have been using Tweezerman shears faithfully since '05(I actually still have the pair I bought in '05 lol even though I have grinders at my house now instead of needing to send them in). They are inexpensive, work well and qualify to be resharpened if you send them in. I also have a few pairs of higher end steel shears that I have snagged on clearance. One day I will get the Japanese steel pair...just need the right deal to justify it lol. Anyhoo, I keep my shears sharp and only use them in my hair, so, they work as intended.

It makes sense than any portion of the exposed hair would be vulnerable weather the blunt ends or the outer cuticle is in question, so I don't mind giving it that extra TLC during my wash days. I only use protein intermittently once ever 2-6 months but regular treatments(of mostly of moisture or builders) work well on the strands and ends. Like you, my method is to counteract the heat and environmental damage, post press or to prepare my hair prestyle. That said, I accept all the benefits those steps yield lol.

Girl, yes!

 

[MzSwift]

OMG, I love this thread!!

I saw success when I used ayurvedic pastes and oils infused w ayurvedic powders after trimming. I have no idea why I never thought to use protein!! Thank you so much for sharing that vid, @Chicoro !

I usually do an amino acid tx after my relaxers and when I used to flat iron during my stretches. I've also been using these 10 sec water tx products, which I believe are amino acid based, when I can remember/every few weeks or so and my ends feel smoother and more "sealed" after I rinse them out. I wonder if I should try using it after my next trim.

 

[Chicoro]

OMG, I love this thread!!

I saw success when I used ayurvedic pastes and oils infused w ayurvedic powders after trimming. I have no idea why I never thought to use protein!! Thank you so much for sharing that vid, @Chicoro !

I usually do an amino acid tx after my relaxers and when I used to flat iron during my stretches. I've also been using these 10 sec water tx products, which I believe are amino acid based, when I can remember/every few weeks or so and my ends feel smoother and more "sealed" after I rinse them out. I wonder if I should try using it after my next trim.

You are welcome! And that lady in the video is a genius [my opinion- as she has never stated this herself]. I believe she is a PhD in a scientific field and a former university professor.

What is an "amino acid tx", please? What are the ingredients and measurements that you use, please? What are "10 sec water tx products", please?

Yes, try using the products after your next trim to see if it does make an immediate, noticeable difference. Do your duty and report back after, from the field, soldier.

 

[snoop]

I'm seeing really great results so far with my clay wash challenge and I've only done two clay washes. adding clay to my regimen has helped reduce my frizz and tangling, improved curl definition and elongation and overall made my hair so much more manageable. I never thought my hair was unmanageable before but now washing and detangling it is like nothing. I can finger detangle now which was not something I could do before. My hair feels softer and absorbs water better too. Clay washes are like magic for my hair and I will never be without them in my regimen now. I also suspect it could replace my monthly chelating treatment but the verdict is still out on that.

June I washed with clay bi weekly (every other wash). For July I am going to up the ante and try washing with clay every week (every wash) to see if my results improve. If not I'll go back to biweekly clay washes.

as a side note. I think I unlocked something in my hair care thought process when I decided to try clay washes. I had a very specific problem in mind (frizz/tangling) and a clear hypothesis (defined curls have less frizz and tangling) which lead me to incorporate clay washes (which are known to improve curl definition). In the past ive tried different methods and trends just because of popularity and it working for other people, without questioning if it's what my hair really needed. What I need to do is assessing what specific issues I have with my hair and what tools and techniques I can try to resolve them.

What kind of clay are you using?

 

[snoop]

I haven't watched the video yet, but I'll comment further when I get a chance.

For a while I was adding raw proteins to my (weekly) clay washes. There was one particular combo that made my hair feel stronger, but I was never able to duplicate that feeling even though I'd used the same measurements.

Lately, I've been using a version of Mlle. @Chicoro 's amino acid treatment and I find that my hair feels smoother/silkier and stronger. The strength isn't the same as it would feel like when I used to use Komaza's protein strengthener, but it feels healthy. I add the amino acids to my weekly clay washes.

In saying that, it just occurred to me that I may have been chasing something that I'll never be able to replicate on my own. The raw proteins that I use are those that were found in Komaza's hair treatment. I loved their product and used it regularly. The only other one that I'd tried was the Aubrey Organics and my hair didn't feel the same... as in I didn't notice any change to how my hair felt after using it. It seemed like I was using a regular conditioner.

In terms of my raw proteins, the only one on the Komaza ingredient list that I didn't buy was the hydrolyzed wheat protein. I think I'll buy that now and see what happens.

All of this to say is that after using Komaza my hair would be body builder strong, but that's not the only kind of strong body type out there. My hair now, is more of an everyday Joe who likes to exercise on a regular basis kind of strong. I believe the strength and health is there but because I've been trying to chase this other feeling/strength type I've taken for granted something that is working well for my hair.

 

[snoop]

I haven't been giving my hair the TLC that it needs and I've been wearing my hair out. I hope that my ends still love me.

I have a micro trim coming up in on the long weekend (July first).

 

[Chicoro]

I haven't watched the video yet, but I'll comment further when I get a chance.

For a while I was adding raw proteins to my (weekly) clay washes. There was one particular combo that made my hair feel stronger, but I was never able to duplicate that feeling even though I'd used the same measurements.

Lately, I've been using a version of Mlle. @Chicoro 's amino acid treatment and I find that my hair feels smoother/silkier and stronger. The strength isn't the same as it would feel like when I used to use Komaza's protein strengthener, but it feels healthy. I add the amino acids to my weekly clay washes.

In saying that, it just occurred to me that I may have been chasing something that I'll never be able to replicate on my own. The raw proteins that I use are those that were found in Komaza's hair treatment. I loved their product and used it regularly. The only other one that I'd tried was the Aubrey Organics and my hair didn't feel the same... as in I didn't notice any change to how my hair felt after using it. It seemed like I was using a regular conditioner.

In terms of my raw proteins, the only one on the Komaza ingredient list that I didn't buy was the hydrolyzed wheat protein. I think I'll buy that now and see what happens.

All of this to say is that after using Komaza my hair would be body builder strong, but that's not the only kind of strong body type out there. My hair now, is more of an everyday Joe who likes to exercise on a regular basis kind of strong. I believe the strength and health is there but because I've been trying to chase this other feeling/strength type I've taken for granted something that is working well for my hair.

Is Komaza no longer being manufactured?


Komaza ingredients:
Ingredients: Distilled water, aloe vera, behentrimonium methosulfate, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed silk protein, hydrolyzed collagen, jojoba protein, wheat protein, gluconolactone and sodium benzoate (natural preservative).

Regarding the ingredients, the hard part is knowing what the exact ratios are to get a similar formulation. I think I have most of these ingredients stashed. I may need to start back doctoring up my conditioner to change it into a protein conditioner.

 

[snoop]

Is Komaza no longer being manufactured?


Komaza ingredients:
Ingredients: Distilled water, aloe vera, behentrimonium methosulfate, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed silk protein, hydrolyzed collagen, jojoba protein, wheat protein, gluconolactone and sodium benzoate (natural preservative).

Regarding the ingredients, the hard part is knowing what the exact ratios are to get a similar formulation. I think I have most of these ingredients stashed. I may need to start back doctoring up my conditioner to change it into a protein conditioner.

I think that it is, but a few years ago a found their product offerings inconstant and shipping from the US for these products is pricey. They were a big catalyst in my going purely DIY with my hair.

wheat protein, gluconolactone

These are the two that I'm missing -- sodicum benzoate I'd skip altogether. To come up with a recipe from this wouldn't be too hard, because you'd start with the suggested usage rate via the manufacturer. The assumption, is also that they are listing their ingredients by usage rates like they're supposed to. Then you can tweak it to what your hair prefers. I think off the top of my head, hydrolyzed proteins have a usage rate of 1-2%. Let's assume that they're using aloe vera juice and not the powder... and I've never used BTMS without oils (also, they don't say which kind, so let's guess -225 since I don't remember it feeling particularly creamy) , so I'm going to take a stab at what it would be like without them...

Distilled water	55%​
Aloe vera	25%​
BTMS-225	6%​
hydrolyzed keratin	2%​
hydrolyzed silk	2%​
hydrolyzed collagen	2%​
hydrolyzed jojoba protein	2%​
hydrolyzed wheat protein	2%​
gluconolactone (0.5% to 5%)	3%​
sodium benzoate (0.5%– 1.5%)	1%​
TOTAL PERCENTAGE	100%​

If I were to try and dupe, I'd start with something like this and adjust to remove the last two ingredients. If this didn't feel strong enough, I'd probably increase the proteins and adjust the top three ingredients accordingly.

I have a few other hydrolyzed proteins based on another one of their products. I'm not sure if I'm using the proteins incorrectly or not (I think Naturally Nica mentioned that the formula should be acidic in one of her videos), but I'm not sure that was an issue for me in the first place, but my hair just feels like hair afterward. This is why I'm wondering if maybe the wheat protein is what was contributing to that obvious feeling of strength.

 

[Chicoro]

I think that it is, but a few years ago a found their product offerings inconstant and shipping from the US for these products is pricey. They were a big catalyst in my going purely DIY with my hair.

wheat protein, gluconolactone

These are the two that I'm missing -- sodicum benzoate I'd skip altogether. To come up with a recipe from this wouldn't be too hard, because you'd start with the suggested usage rate via the manufacturer. The assumption, is also that they are listing their ingredients by usage rates like they're supposed to. Then you can tweak it to what your hair prefers. I think off the top of my head, hydrolyzed proteins have a usage rate of 1-2%. Let's assume that they're using aloe vera juice and not the powder... and I've never used BTMS without oils (also, they don't say which kind, so let's guess -225 since I don't remember it feeling particularly creamy) , so I'm going to take a stab at what it would be like without them...

Distilled water	55%​
Aloe vera	25%​
BTMS-225	6%​
hydrolyzed keratin	2%​
hydrolyzed silk	2%​
hydrolyzed collagen	2%​
hydrolyzed jojoba protein	2%​
hydrolyzed wheat protein	2%​
gluconolactone (0.5% to 5%)	3%​
sodium benzoate (0.5%– 1.5%)	1%​
TOTAL PERCENTAGE	100%​

If I were to try and dupe, I'd start with something like this and adjust to remove the last two ingredients. If this didn't feel strong enough, I'd probably increase the proteins and adjust the top three ingredients accordingly.

I have a few other hydrolyzed proteins based on another one of their products. I'm not sure if I'm using the proteins incorrectly or not (I think Naturally Nica mentioned that the formula should be acidic in one of her videos), but I'm not sure that was an issue for me in the first place, but my hair just feels like hair afterward. This is why I'm wondering if maybe the wheat protein is what was contributing to that obvious feeling of strength.

Ooo! Thanks for the formulation breakdown. Lots of folks will benefit from this, including me!


(I think Naturally Nica mentioned that the formula should be acidic in one of her videos)
I've not heard her say that, but it would make sense to me. That is because an acidic solution on the hair fiber would cause the cuticles to tighten, contract or de-swell. This would make hair feel smoother even if the ingredients in the product were not coating.

So, when are you going to formulate this and dip on in it? Cause you know, when you dip, we dip, they dip.

 

[MzSwift]

@snoop

Talking about acidic products/mixes makes me think of back in the day when Kimmaytube started to blow up. She promoted using AVJ daily on her hair and then made videos breaking down the scientific reasons for her success. Ultimately, what we all took away from that was that the hair products should be slightly acidic to benefit hair (unless, of course, you're trying to open your cuticles to impart nutrients). Having a pH around 4.5 was supposed to be a sweet spot for the hair, since the hair's natural pH is said to be around 4.5-5.5.

And I love the "average Joe" strong analogy! That's exactly how I prefer my hair to be too! I think that's why I never delve into the really strong protein txs because 1) I'm terrified of protein overload and 2) I was content with my hair being a good balance of strength and softness.

And, wait, @Chicoro has an Amino Acid TX???

 

[Chicoro]

@snoop

Talking about acidic products/mixes makes me think of back in the day when Kimmaytube started to blow up. She promoted using AVJ daily on her hair and then made videos breaking down the scientific reasons for her success. Ultimately, what we all took away from that was that the hair products should be slightly acidic to benefit hair (unless, of course, you're trying to open your cuticles to impart nutrients). Having a pH around 4.5 was supposed to be a sweet spot for the hair, since the hair's natural pH is said to be around 4.5-5.5.

And I love the "average Joe" strong analogy! That's exactly how I prefer my hair to be too! I think that's why I never delve into the really strong protein txs because 1) I'm terrified of protein overload and 2) I was content with my hair being a good balance of strength and softness.

And, wait, @Chicoro has an Amino Acid TX???

What it TX????