Livecurlyfree.com

[Mrs. Verde]

I was searching the web for information on product ingredients. I found this interesting site. Not sure if this is a double post. I tried to search, but we know it's not working that great these days. There have a been a few post lately with people asking about protein and moisture. We need to make sure that we read the ingredients list to understand if a product has silicones, sulfates, or protein. There is other good information on this site.

http://www.livecurlylivefree.com/home.htm

So, how do you actually identify sulfates and "bad" silicones on product labels? The list of formal ingredient names below will help you to stay on track and avoid purchasing products that are not suitable for optimal curly hair health.
Please note that professional salon products especially formulated for curly hair will always give the best results; however, drugstore products containing no sulfates or non-water soluble silicones are always preferable to any product brand containing those ingredients.
My clients will tell you I am not in the least bit concerned about what "brand" you use. I care more that you commit to following the no-sulfate, no non-water soluble silicones guidelines than I do about what brand you buy, so always feel free to experiment and use the products that are best for you and your particular curls. I still experiment with different products myself, as I suspect almost every girl with curls will do for the rest of her life!

Sulfates
A surfactant—sometimes referred to as a detergent—is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces such as the human skin, textiles, and other solids. There are several different types of surfactants, ranging from harsh to mild, with sulfates belonging to the class that is the most harsh.

Common sulfates as found on hair product ingredient bottles include:

• Alkylbenzene Sulfonate
• Ammonium Laureth or Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate
• Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
• Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate
• Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
• Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
• Sodium Laureth, Myreth, or Lauryl Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
• TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate

Some milder surfactants—less drying and recommended in lieu of sulfates—include:

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Coco Betaine
• Cocoamphoacetate
• Cocoamphodipropionate
• Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate or Cocoamphodipropionate
• Lauroamphoacetate
• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Silicones
Silicones generally end in -cone, -conol, -col, or -xane and are found in many hair products. If any silicone name has the abbreviation "PEG" in front of it, however, it is water-soluble and will not build up.

Silicones that are not soluble in water, will consistently build up on the hair and will require a surfactant-based shampoo to remove include:

• Cetearyl Methicone
• Cetyl Dimethicone
• Dimethicone
• Dimethiconol
• Stearyl Dimethicone

Silicones that are not soluble in water, but whose chemical properties allow it to repel further deposit, helping to prevent buildup (although they will still lock moisture out of the hair and require a surfactant to remove):

• Amodimethicone
• Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane
• Trimethylsilylamodimethicone

A note about amodimethicone: if you do an Internet search on amodimethicone, you will find quite a few sites (including mine, until recently) that list amodimethicone as a silicone that is "slightly" soluble in water as long as two additional ingredients are included in the formulation:
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (as a mixture in the bottle)
The assumption has always been that the inclusion of Trideceth-12 (a nonionic surfactant) and cetrimonium chloride (a cationic surfactant) render the amodimethicone, non-water soluble on its own, slightly soluble in water and it could be considered okay to use. Turns out that has been a completely incorrect assumption. What the Trideceth-12 and cetrimonium chloride do is render the amodimethicone dispersible in water. Once the amodimethicone is deposited onto the hair shaft and dries to a film, however, it is not water-soluble, will prevent moisture from getting into the hair shaft and will require a surfactant to remove.
Silicones that are slightly soluble in water, but can possibly build up on some types of curly hair over time, include:

• Behenoxy Dimethicone
• Stearoxy Dimethicone

Silicones that are soluble in water and can generally be considered safe to use (in addition to those listed with "PEG" in front of them) include:

• Dimethicone Copolyol
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
• Lauryl Methicone Copolyol

Proteins
An additional note about proteins: some curly hair types, especially those with a coarse hair texture, are also sensitive to proteins, which can cause some curly hair to become dry and brittle. They are best avoided if any adverse effects are noted.

Common protein ingredients include:

• Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein
• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
• Silk Amino Acids
• Silk Protein
• Soy Protein
• Wheat Amino Acids
• Wheat Protein

 

[Mrs. Verde]

Home Remedies
While there are several fine product lines on the market for the care and maintenance of curly hair, many girls with curls are advocating a move to more natural products, including those made at home. Below are several recipes you can use if you have an adventurous spirit and would like to experiment.



Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

Baking Soda Clarification

Chlorine Buster

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Essential Oil Blend for Hair Growth

Hair Detangler

Honey Hair Conditioner

Lavender Water Hair Spray

Oily Scalp Treatment

Olive Oil Treatment

Protein Pack



Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

There is some debate on whether or not an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse alone can clarify the hair; however, it is helpful to bring the hair back into balance after an alkaline solution has come into contact with the hair and will shut the cuticle back down. Repeated use of ACV rinses can be drying, so limit use to once per month at most:



Combine:



1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 cup warm water



Pour the mixture over the hair after cleansing (do not rinse out), then condition as usual. Any lingering smell will dissipate as the hair dries.



Baking Soda Clarification

With some silicone-based products, clarification must be done to remove the product that builds up over time on the hair shaft. Rather than resort to sulfate-based shampoos to remove this build-up, which can damage and dry the hair, a baking soda cleanse is preferable:



Combine:



1 tablespoon baking soda

3 tablespoons curly-friendly conditioner



Apply mixture to the scalp and massage firmly, then continue to massage the mixture down the hair shaft to the ends. Work into hair well. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and follow immediately with an apple cider vinegar rinse.



Note: you must follow any baking soda cleanse with an apple cider vinegar rinse. Baking soda is alkaline—meaning it will raise your cuticle and open up your hair shaft. The apple cider vinegar is acidic and will close your cuticle back down. If you don't follow the cleanse with an ACV rinse, you'll be leaving your hair shaft open and setting yourself up for more frizz than you'd probably like.



Chlorine Buster

It is always a good idea to rinse your hair with plain water prior to entering any swimming pool to prevent chlorine water from penetrating into your hair shaft; however, this remedy will help reverse any chlorine damage to unprotected hair.



Combine:



1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup pureed, peeled cucumber



Massage well into hair from scalp to ends, then cover with a plastic processing cap. Process for 30 minutes hour at room temperature, then cleanse hair with a non-sulfate based cleanser.



Deep Conditioning Treatment

No time for a deep conditioning treatment? Right before you go to sleep, rake a good deep moisture treatment through your slightly damp curls. Cover your hair completely with a plastic processing cap and/or a satin sleep bonnet and go to sleep (throw a towel over your pillowcase for extra protection). In the morning, rinse out the treatment, then scrunch in your styling products, style and go. Voilà! A deep conditioning treatment that doesn't take hours from your day!



Essential Oil Blend for Hair Growth

Please note there is no guarantee this oil will stimulate hair growth in every individual. However, researchers from the Aberdeen Royal Infirmary in Scotland published a study of 86 individuals who used this oil for seven months and reported 44% of people in the treatment group had new hair growth compared to only 15% in the control group.



Combine:



3 drops cedarwood essential oil

3 drops lavender essential oil

3 drops lemon essential oil

3 drops rosemary essential oil

3 drops thyme essential oil

1/8 cup grapeseed oil

1/8 cup jojoba oil

Apply several drops of the mixture to areas of hair loss each night, massaging gently into the scalp for 3-5 minutes. Store oil tightly covered and keep away from heat and light.

Contraindications: avoid rosemary essential oil when pregnant. Cautions: citrus oils are photosensitive and should not be applied prior to sun exposure.

Hair Detangler

Well-moisturized curly hair is virtually tangle-free, but this recipe can help with the tangles while you are in your re-hydration process. You can keep this in a spray bottle and spray it on in the shower to help detangle your hair while cleansing and conditioning:



Combine:



1 teaspoon aloe vera gel

1/2 teaspoon grapefruit seed extract

2 drops grapefruit essential oil

2 drops glycerin

8 ounces purified water



Mix together in a spray bottle and keep in the shower. Spray lightly to help detangle hair.



Cautions: citrus oils are photosensitive and should not be applied prior to sun exposure.



Honey Hair Conditioner

Honey is a natural humectant that can help restore moisture to dry hair. The antibacterial properties of honey will release low levels of hydrogen peroxide and can lighten the hair, however, so be sure to warm the honey before use—heating it will negate the effects of the peroxide.



Combine:



1/2 cup honey, warmed in the microwave

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil



Massage well into hair from scalp to ends, then cover with a plastic processing cap. Process for 30 minutes at room temperature, then cleanse hair with a non-sulfate cleanser. For added penetration, sit under a warm (not hot) dryer for 20 minutes.



Lavender Water Hair Spray

The benefits of lavender essential oil in hair care are many—it can help to disinfect your scalp and skin and it can be very effective on lice and lice eggs or nits. In addition, the scent of lavender has been shown to help reduce headaches, depression, anxiety and emotional stress.



Combine:



1 cup purified water

1/2 tablespoon curly-friendly conditioner or coconut oil

1-2 drops lavender essential oil



Combine in an 8 oz. spray bottle. Spray lightly on hair to refresh throughout the day. Shake well before each use.



Contraindications: low blood pressure, pregnancy prior to second trimester.



Oily Scalp Treatment

While most curly women suffer from dry scalp, curly men often do battle with oily hair and scalp conditions. Whether you are a girl or a guy with curls, the witch hazel in this remedy will act as an astringent and the mouthwash includes antiseptic properties to help with oil reduction.



Combine:



3 tablespoons witch hazel

3 tablespoons mouthwash



Apply with cotton pads (only to your scalp); do not rinse. Cleanse as usual.



Olive Oil Treatment

Olive oil is one of the healthiest natural ingredients for hair that is extremely dehydrated and brittle. Girls with curls who have coarse hair, who historically have the hardest time keeping moisture in their hair, can greatly benefit from the following deep treatment on a monthly or twice-a-month basis (although this treatment is beneficial for anyone with dry hair):



Warm:



1/4 cup olive oil



Massage well into hair from scalp to ends, then cover with a plastic processing cap. Process for 30 minutes at room temperature, then cleanse hair with a non-sulfate cleanser. For added penetration, sit under a warm (not hot) dryer for 20 minutes.



Tip: you can buy a can of olive oil cooking spray (such as Pam®) and use it to spray lightly on hair for shine and frizz control. Be judicious, as you do not want to make yourself oily from using too much. Keeping the spray can at least 10 inches from your hair while spraying will also help to ensure any propellants will dissipate before reaching your hair.



Protein Pack

Some girls with curls, especially those with fine hair, have a tendency to become too over-moisturized with emollients and need additional protein treatments to restore the health of their hair. This is also helpful for lightened (bleached) hair that has not been properly reconstructed after the chemical service:



Combine:



1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon mayonnaise (the full fat kind, not the reduced fat)

2 teaspoons olive oil



Massage well into hair from scalp to ends, then cover with a plastic processing cap. Process for one hour at room temperature, then cleanse hair with a non-sulfate cleanser. For added penetration, sit under a warm (not hot) dryer for 30 minutes.