I may be over thinking this but... (sorry, long rant)

AwesomelyNappy

Well-Known Member
In the April issue of Cosmopolitan, there was a response about African American hair that made me cringe. In the Beauty Q&A section (page128) one of the questions was "What helps minimize breakage on African-American hair?" Their answer was

"Don’t apply chemical straighteners more than once every six weeks, and give your hair a one-week break from extensions, says Pantene stylist Tippi Shorter. Also, shampoo only once every 10 to 14 days, then do a deep conditioning treatment. Pantene Pro-V Relaxed and Natural Breakage defense mask, is packed with protective proteins."

First of all, in the first sentence, they basically made a statement that assumes that all black women do is get relaxers and weaves. To me, it was a stereotypical answer about hair given to a race of people, misinforming the rest of the people, and adding weight to the stereotypes of black hair. Although it is best to wait at least 6 weeks between chemical treatments (as most people know already as it says to do so on the box!!!) and to take breaks from weaves, the focus of this answer just seems a little degrading to me. (I know I might sound crazy) I know that we do use both tools for our own hair needs, but it came off (to me anyway) as if all black women have short nappy hair and usually go out to get perms and extensions to look acceptable. I know (and most here know) that most people inside and outside our race already assumes that a "black woman can’t possibly have long hair without the use of a weave" or that "black hair only looks good when straightened". Or since we don’t have “good” hair, we HAVE to have perms. This is why most times when black girls have long hair, people want to question its realness or challenge you on it as if "it can’t be true". OR, if you do prove to them that your long hair is really home grown, they assume that it’s because you’re mixed somewhere in your lineage or something. Anyway, that first sentence irked the heck out of me!

Second, haven’t it been proven here and elsewhere that washing more frequently than once every 2-4 weeks is MORE beneficial to our hair? I know that most people outside these hair boards might not warm up to co washing since its kinda unconventional, but with that right conditioner after a bi-(or more)-weekly wash, adding vitamins, protective styles, leave in conditioners and low heat and manilipulation... our hair can become more stronger and resilient than ever. (I know. I used to wash maybe once or twice a month, unless it had buildup or sweat, because I used to believe that since our hair didn't produce natural oils as much as others, that it didn't get dirty as quick and thus didn’t need to wash it. Now that I’m cowashing-amung other things- I’ve finally been introduced to my real hair-strong, soft, moisturized, and growing hair... I even believe that I’ll be at brastrap sometime in 08 at my rate...) I remember last semester in a nursing class, I had a teacher ( older white lady with real thin see thru and short white hair) who was giving instructions about hygiene care of the elderly tell the class that we should not wash African American hair more than twice a week as opposed to every other day as in non-blacks because... and then she looked at me for an answer, and I raised my eyebrows and shook my head and told her I didn't follow... and she told me that we (blacks) don’t do it because basically black hair is more brittle and weaker than other peoples... (she was a major culprit of using blanket statements about different types of people – once there was a tightly coiled hair inside a lunch cooler left in the break room, and she assumed it was mine because she thought it was a “blacks” hair… the cooler turned out to have belonged to a straight hair Indian lady’s) I then told her, and the class that that info wasn’t true and unfounded and that I washed every other day with no breakage or other problems, and then the class got turned into a hair discussion.

Not only are we as a whole mostly misinformed about our hair, but "they" are as well. To give vague, blanket, misinformed, stereotypical advice about black hair in a mass magazine like that is sad in my opinion. Why couldn't they just said that to stop breakage, take biotin or a b-complex vit and eat a healthy diet, or recommend a strengthening shampoo and conditioner and a leave in. Why couldn't they said use minimum heat and chemical exposure and protect against the sun and wind and sleep on satin or silk pillows? I don’t know, maybe I’m overanalyzing it. Sorry for my long rant… thanks for reading this far….
 
Not surprised. Cosmo is geared toward upper middle class white women. I doubt they'd be very informed about anything dealing with ethnicity.

However, I doubt they meant any harm. When reading stuff like this, I try and take it with a grain of salt. It's a slightly uninformed, generic, and vague answer, but they aren't LHCF. They aren't us.

A lot of black women may use that regimen, and their hair will be better off for it because it's an improvement from what they've been doing. We have to start somewhere.
 
awesomely_nappy said:
First of all, in the first sentence, they basically made a statement that assumes that all black women do is get relaxers and weaves. .

In real life i think that this statement is true for the majority of black women. Relaxers and extensions ( weaves/braids/twists) are embedded deeply in our culture. How many women can honestly say they've never gotten any of the two in their whole lives?

Secondly i never really take seriously things written in white ( i don't even take seriously what's in black) publications about our hair.
 
I read that when it came out. I thought it was relatively good advice, considering where it was coming from.

I wonder more who was the knucklehead that had to ask Cosmopolitan about how to stop their hair from breakage. I wonder that about the questions in Sophisticate's and Hype too. I think they're made up.
 
Pantene. That's the best they could offer. They can fudge off. Hell I don't even pay attention to black hair advice in BLACK magazines let alone Cosmo.
 
LondonDiva said:
Pantene. That's the best they could offer. They can fudge off. Hell I don't even pay attention to black hair advice in BLACK magazines let alone Cosmo.

Ya took the words right outta my mouth!
 
I worked in Magazine publishing for years from YM, BET Weekend, Marie Claire just to name a few and I have to say I'm actually surprised that they actually had a black woman (Tippi Shorter is black) answer the question. That's a step up, LOL. I used to get so pissed off and voice my opinion when they gave beauty advice and lumped ALL black women into the "Dark" category. I told them that if you all want to gain any black readers you have got to realize we all are NOT the same. Same thing with the hair, they'd have either a girl with natural hair (she would usually be brown to dark skinned) or a girl who was obviously bi-racial or multi-racial and have it in the "Black hair" category.

I say all that to say that unfortunately magazines not geared towards women of color don't invest the time or energy to research or find out about us as we are not considered their target audience. You should see some of the outdated demographics/psychographics info alot of these mags put into their media-kits to potential advertisers. It's SO clear they ain't thinking bout us.

Moni
 
I do think you are over-analyzing the article.

I don't think they were implying that most black women wear weaves and relaxers at all. Atleast I didn't read that. Magazines like this mainly print issues what the readers want or ask about. The journalists don't just pull stories from their rears. They were just catering to the demographics of the black women who read them magazine. So maybe they thought that printing that was a good fit?

Like SweetWhisper said, it is true, most black women do have weaves or relaxers. Whether we like it or not, it's true. Doesn't mean we are less than or a bad race of women at all. The information was incorrect, but hell they give incorrect information to white women as well. I think it is safe to say that on both sides of the fence, lots of misinformation is provided.
 
When I first read the question I immediately wanted to know what protein treatment the person was giving to their hair and what their moisturizing routine was like?? Does anyone else try to solve others hair problems!?!?!?!

Anyway, I do believe that the answer was sort of right and wrong. Most Black American women do get extensions/weaves and relaxers. However, getting on every 6 weeks can be damaging to some, and washing every 2 weeks can be damaging to some. Hair is an individual thing and something like this would require more knowledge of what the person is doing to give an educated answer to best suit this situation. A generic answer simply won't do.
 
LocksOfLuV said:
I don't think they were implying that most black women wear weaves and relaxers at all. Atleast I didn't read that. Magazines like this mainly print issues what the readers want or ask about. The journalists don't just pull stories from their rears. They were just catering to the demographics of the black women who read them magazine. So maybe they thought that printing that was a good fit?
Actually they do just pull questions out of the rears and THAT is what is so frustrating. Not all the time but many times and the times when they do it's usually to appeal to an audience. In this case an attempt to appeal to black women. I know a lot of black women who read Cosmo and although some wear weaves or relax occassionally it isn't a regular occurence that would warrant this type of blanket answer. Again, it's the nature of the industry (magazine publishing). I sat in a meeting at one of the magazines I mentioned (won't say which one) about 5 years ago and if I had not been there I KNOW they would have come right out and said we don't put black women on the cover cause it doesn't sell. They went around it by saying which months they had certain celebrities on it where sales were low and they ALL happened to be black. But, according to the numbers that wasn't even true. Some months were lower some weren't and there were low months where white women were on the cover but we didn't discuss those. These magazines are VERY calculated in what they do and in my opinion when they put such misinformed info into the magazine they are "throwing us a bone" to make us happy.
 
I don't think they meant any harm but to be honest, advice in black magazines sometimes isn't any better. For the most part, I have heard okay advice for black hair in magazines like allure, cosmo, and glamour. Glamour had an article about rollers and they did advise that ladies with relaxed hair refrain from using velcro rollers and they offered a subsitute, they have also advised twice weekly deep conditioning treatments for AA hair types, whether relaxed or natural. In cosmo once, they had hair advice for 4 types of hair and in the AA hair section, they advised using heat protectants on hair before styling and to refrain from using heat more than once a week. They also mentioned that those who use heat need to do more deep conditioning treatments. The advice was not perfect compared to our standards but it is usually more than what most non LHCFS do on a regular basis.
 
awesomely_nappy said:
In the April issue of Cosmopolitan, there was a response about African American hair that made me cringe. In the Beauty Q&A section (page128) one of the questions was "What helps minimize breakage on African-American hair?" Their answer was

"Don’t apply chemical straighteners more than once every six weeks, and give your hair a one-week break from extensions, says Pantene stylist Tippi Shorter. Also, shampoo only once every 10 to 14 days, then do a deep conditioning treatment. Pantene Pro-V Relaxed and Natural Breakage defense mask, is packed with protective proteins."

I really don't think it's that serious. I saw this this morning when I was reading on the subway but I didn't think the advice was all that bad. I've seen worse advice in BLACK mags. It falls in line with what most black women in the US do. Most black women in the US are still relaxed. Period. A lot of black women wear weaves. Many women have a standing hair appt every week or every 2 weeks and do not wash or do anything to their hair in between. So thats what 10 to 14 days? And this advice isn't far off from what I did when I was relaxed and getting my hair done at the salon every two weeks. For some people less is more. I don't wash my hair more than once every 7-10 days myself even though I'm natural now. And I certainly didn't when I was relaxed. Yes there are exceptions to all of these things, and we all know that because we are here on this board. What works for one person may not work for others. But the majority of people are not privy to the knowledge on this board and Cosmo is just catering to it's readers.
 
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After seeing and working with so much hair that has been damaged and weakened due to relaxers, weaves and braids, I have to agree with some of the advice given. The best heads of relaxed hair I see are usually those that rarely or never had weaves/braids.
 
Let's just keep in mind that Pantene is one of Cosmo's biggest sponsors and supporters. Yes, I agree with parts of the response given-- they were just trying to help.
 
Well, there are a lot of stylists recommending that their clients relax every 4 weeks, so hopefully some one will read that and realize that isn't necessarily the "standard." People also abuse at-home relaxers, young girls touching up their edges every 2-3 weeks:eek: , leaving the relaxer on for 40 min or more. Some people would rather have no edges than nappy edges. While every 6 weeks is frequent by LHCF standards, it is a stretch for some, I think it would have been more appropriate to give a range, but saying not more often than 6 weeks is the most frequent relaxing any head of hair should be subjected to is solid advice.

As for washing, I don't know why they act as if it would be the end of the world to say "Black woman can wash/condition as often as needed, it's up to her to determine that time period, but for the sake of hygiene and hair health 2 weeks is the longest Black woman should go."

Deep conditioning advice was good.

So let's see, 2 pieces of good advice, 1 shaky suggestion, I think Cosmo doesn't suck that bad. I've seen worse advice , like "trim every 2 weeks."
 
LocksOfLuV said:
I do think you are over-analyzing the article.

I don't think they were implying that most black women wear weaves and relaxers at all. Atleast I didn't read that. Magazines like this mainly print issues what the readers want or ask about. The journalists don't just pull stories from their rears. They were just catering to the demographics of the black women who read them magazine. So maybe they thought that printing that was a good fit?

Like SweetWhisper said, it is true, most black women do have weaves or relaxers. Whether we like it or not, it's true. Doesn't mean we are less than or a bad race of women at all. The information was incorrect, but hell they give incorrect information to white women as well. I think it is safe to say that on both sides of the fence, lots of misinformation is provided.
ITA, that advice is pretty good, and if a black woman reads it and takes it to heart, she may be able to save her hair. And let's face it, the woman who asked the question was most likely relaxed.

It's what most of us are doing anyway(who are relaxed), right? Stretching relaxers, minimizing the use of extensions, not using shampoo, and DC-ing religiously? We can't get mad when someone puts us on blast for it. It's a good thing. And most black women are relaxed and do wear weaves. How many of us on this board do it? Why get mad when someone says it? The answers wasn't, since all you nappy headed negros put chemicals in your hair and wear weaves.... Exactly what should the woman have said? Not answered the question? I'm not understanding the sensitivity over this. If a black magazine would have printed the same thing, would it have been better or worse? Same "generalizations," right? I'm just not seeing this "blanket statment" stuff that folks are talking about. It's not even that serious. She shouldn't have had to give a 5 paragraph answer just as not to offend us.

Now the Pantene...well the woman worked for Pantene, can't do much about that.
 
I honestly would have been more confused if the magazine has said :
To minimize shrinkage, make sure to put your hair in big braids after washing so it can dry without tangles OR

Don't wear your hair an afro or phony puff everyday or your ends will dry out.

BUT I'm not surprised b/c most Black women ARE relaxed.

ETA: I think it was really good advice considering teh context ::shrugs::
 
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Thanks for all of your honest replies!:) I really dont take it too seriously when i read stuff like that. I usually avoid reading their advice for AA unless i feel its really reliable. Its one of the reasons why i stopped reading some black hair mags, but i still like cosmo despite my rant. Anyways, after taking it with a grain of salt, i see it could be viewed as good advice. I dont think that Cosmo is that deep where they would mean any harm to anybody. I still think that some of the suggestions i wrote were good tho.

I think that when i read that comment and wrote my rant, that i was still just in a bad place about other peoples hair opionions about black hair because of the negative comments i've heard this past weekend about black hair from some coworkers and i just took my frustraition out on that poor article. I know i over thought the whole thing and probably saw things that werent there. Next time, i'lll try to be more clear minded before i rant!:look:

besides, i'm thinking about looking into that pantene protein mask... i wonder if its any good...
 
Monilove122 said:
I worked in Magazine publishing for years from YM, BET Weekend, Marie Claire just to name a few and I have to say I'm actually surprised that they actually had a black woman (Tippi Shorter is black) answer the question. That's a step up, LOL. I used to get so pissed off and voice my opinion when they gave beauty advice and lumped ALL black women into the "Dark" category. I told them that if you all want to gain any black readers you have got to realize we all are NOT the same. Same thing with the hair, they'd have either a girl with natural hair (she would usually be brown to dark skinned) or a girl who was obviously bi-racial or multi-racial and have it in the "Black hair" category.

I say all that to say that unfortunately magazines not geared towards women of color don't invest the time or energy to research or find out about us as we are not considered their target audience. You should see some of the outdated demographics/psychographics info alot of these mags put into their media-kits to potential advertisers. It's SO clear they ain't thinking bout us.

Moni

Thanks for being our voice and enlightening them on the truth!:)
 
I think you are overthinking the first portion - she did not speak to anyone not wearing a relaxer, but to those who were. To my there is an implied "If you use relaxer" then..."don't apply every 6 weeks".

And with the washing, many ladies refuse to let water near their hair let alone wash it every 10 days.
 
Well, considering that a few years ago Cosmo didn't even have a section for AA hair or lumped it in with super curly white hair, I think it's a small step in the right direction. At least they got a person who probably actually works with a multitude of black people's hair.
 
StrawberryQueen said:
ITA, that advice is pretty good, and if a black woman reads it and takes it to heart, she may be able to save her hair. And let's face it, the woman who asked the question was most likely relaxed.

It's what most of us are doing anyway(who are relaxed), right? Stretching relaxers, minimizing the use of extensions, not using shampoo, and DC-ing religiously? We can't get mad when someone puts us on blast for it. It's a good thing. And most black women are relaxed and do wear weaves. How many of us on this board do it? Why get mad when someone says it? The answers wasn't, since all you nappy headed negros put chemicals in your hair and wear weaves.... Exactly what should the woman have said? Not answered the question? I'm not understanding the sensitivity over this. If a black magazine would have printed the same thing, would it have been better or worse? Same "generalizations," right? I'm just not seeing this "blanket statment" stuff that folks are talking about. It's not even that serious. She shouldn't have had to give a 5 paragraph answer just as not to offend us.

Now the Pantene...well the woman worked for Pantene, can't do much about that.

Very well put.
I guess it is like the family analogy. Family can talk about family (black people) but it's wrong when an outsider does it (white people). People seem to be upset that white people are acknowledging stuff that black people already know. I think it hurts more to hear it from a white person...
 
Wow, I didn't think it was that serious. :look:

I mean, aren't most black women relaxed? I personally don't know any who aren't. I also personally don't know any black women who never had extensions or a weave. It's not like the article lied or anything....
 
The main problem (to me) is the assumtion that the black reader relaxes and wears extensions.

Had the response read:

"If you use chemical straighteners, don't apply them more than once every six weeks, and if you wear extensions, give your hair a one-week break from them, says Pantene stylist Tippi Shorter. Also, shampoo only once every 10 to 14 days, then do a deep conditioning treatment. Pantene Pro-V Relaxed and Natural Breakage defense mask, is packed with protective proteins."

Rather than:

"Don’t apply chemical straighteners more than once every six weeks, and give your hair a one-week break from extensions, says Pantene stylist Tippi Shorter. Also, shampoo only once every 10 to 14 days, then do a deep conditioning treatment. Pantene Pro-V Relaxed and Natural Breakage defense mask, is packed with protective proteins."

I wouldn't be bothered. This response still contains the same semi-valid advice given the practices of most black women, but does not generalise or imply.

Their response, as it stands, implies that relaxing and extensions are 'the way of life' for black women. Which, for many, it is. But it doesn't make it right.
It would be ok if these black women had relaxers and extensions purely as a styling option but I think most have them because they believe their own natural hair is 'unacceptable' (I know I thought this before I learned the truth :().

Mainstream media ackowledging relaxers and extensions but not natural hair too, that is the problem.
 
It's funny but outside of LHCF if that magazine would have stated to deep condition hair, use a leave in conditioner, wash regularly...most black women (outside of LHCF remember) would have been offended and felt like they were being lumped in with white women and that Cosmo does not understand black hair. Why do I say this? Because everytime I give that kind of advice to any black woman that happens to ask about hair care, they turn and say..do you think I have white hair?

So I would say they were trying to give an answer that was specific to who they felt their black readers are. Furthermore, questions are usually adjusted/ changed to cover an array of questions so that it is generalized. For all we know there may have been tons of questions specific to weaves and braids and so they worded the one question generically in a way to capture an answer to many.

Oh well
 
LondonDiva said:
Pantene. That's the best they could offer. They can fudge off. Hell I don't even pay attention to black hair advice in BLACK magazines let alone Cosmo.

I know dat's right!! Me neeva!!!

& LondonD, I am LUVIN" your hair !!!!!
 
awesomely_nappy said:
In the April issue of Cosmopolitan, there was a response about African American hair that made me cringe. In the Beauty Q&A section (page128) one of the questions was "What helps minimize breakage on African-American hair?" Their answer was

"Don’t apply chemical straighteners more than once every six weeks, and give your hair a one-week break from extensions, says Pantene stylist Tippi Shorter. Also, shampoo only once every 10 to 14 days, then do a deep conditioning treatment. Pantene Pro-V Relaxed and Natural Breakage defense mask, is packed with protective proteins."

First of all, in the first sentence, they basically made a statement that assumes that all black women do is get relaxers and weaves. To me, it was a stereotypical answer about hair given to a race of people, misinforming the rest of the people, and adding weight to the stereotypes of black hair. Although it is best to wait at least 6 weeks between chemical treatments (as most people know already as it says to do so on the box!!!) and to take breaks from weaves, the focus of this answer just seems a little degrading to me. (I know I might sound crazy) I know that we do use both tools for our own hair needs, but it came off (to me anyway) as if all black women have short nappy hair and usually go out to get perms and extensions to look acceptable. I know (and most here know) that most people inside and outside our race already assumes that a "black woman can’t possibly have long hair without the use of a weave" or that "black hair only looks good when straightened". Or since we don’t have “good” hair, we HAVE to have perms. This is why most times when black girls have long hair, people want to question its realness or challenge you on it as if "it can’t be true". OR, if you do prove to them that your long hair is really home grown, they assume that it’s because you’re mixed somewhere in your lineage or something. Anyway, that first sentence irked the heck out of me!

Second, haven’t it been proven here and elsewhere that washing more frequently than once every 2-4 weeks is MORE beneficial to our hair? I know that most people outside these hair boards might not warm up to co washing since its kinda unconventional, but with that right conditioner after a bi-(or more)-weekly wash, adding vitamins, protective styles, leave in conditioners and low heat and manilipulation... our hair can become more stronger and resilient than ever. (I know. I used to wash maybe once or twice a month, unless it had buildup or sweat, because I used to believe that since our hair didn't produce natural oils as much as others, that it didn't get dirty as quick and thus didn’t need to wash it. Now that I’m cowashing-amung other things- I’ve finally been introduced to my real hair-strong, soft, moisturized, and growing hair... I even believe that I’ll be at brastrap sometime in 08 at my rate...) I remember last semester in a nursing class, I had a teacher ( older white lady with real thin see thru and short white hair) who was giving instructions about hygiene care of the elderly tell the class that we should not wash African American hair more than twice a week as opposed to every other day as in non-blacks because... and then she looked at me for an answer, and I raised my eyebrows and shook my head and told her I didn't follow... and she told me that we (blacks) don’t do it because basically black hair is more brittle and weaker than other peoples... (she was a major culprit of using blanket statements about different types of people – once there was a tightly coiled hair inside a lunch cooler left in the break room, and she assumed it was mine because she thought it was a “blacks” hair… the cooler turned out to have belonged to a straight hair Indian lady’s) I then told her, and the class that that info wasn’t true and unfounded and that I washed every other day with no breakage or other problems, and then the class got turned into a hair discussion.

Not only are we as a whole mostly misinformed about our hair, but "they" are as well. To give vague, blanket, misinformed, stereotypical advice about black hair in a mass magazine like that is sad in my opinion. Why couldn't they just said that to stop breakage, take biotin or a b-complex vit and eat a healthy diet, or recommend a strengthening shampoo and conditioner and a leave in. Why couldn't they said use minimum heat and chemical exposure and protect against the sun and wind and sleep on satin or silk pillows? I don’t know, maybe I’m overanalyzing it. Sorry for my long rant… thanks for reading this far….

Dang you did have a long post but I totally agree with you, they gave a stereotypical answer. I really hate they way the gave a shout out to Pantene. That stuff is garbage.
 
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