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Natural Gel Option

1/4 cup of oil
1/8 cup whole leaf aloe vera
1 teaspoon of guar gum

Mix with stick blender

( used hazelnut because peanut oil was unavailable)
(Can use gum Arabic or xanthum
Gum instead)

Make sure hair is moistened with water or water based leave-in. Apply gel lightly. Put on scarf to lay down and set hair.

Flax seed gel does nothing for my hair. This oil/aloe Vera/ guar gum works for my hair.
 
I remember Wanakee used to be talked about a lot here. Here’s her guide to haircare. It’s long but good. I don’t believe in the trimming every 6-8 weeks though, maybe just dusting.


Wanakee's Practical Guide to Haircare

INTRODUCTION

If your hair has been damaged, take heart. Your hair is growing while you’re reading this. It was growing yesterday while you were having dinner, and it will be growing during your coffee break. If you’ve ever had a relaxer or hair color in your hair you know how fast it grows; seems like you need your roots touched up every time you blink! Yet women constantly say, "My hair just won’t grow. Why doesn’t it ever get any longer?"



In order for your hair to grow, it has to have what I call a ‘healthy growth pattern’. Here’s what a healthy growth pattern looks like: Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Notice, there’s three times more growing going on here than trimming.



An ‘unhealthy growth pattern’ looks like this: Grow, break, grow, break. Grow, break, grow, break. There’s as much breakage going on here, as there is growth. You can see clearly that the hair is growing. But it’s breaking just as fast as it grows; the breakage is NEUTRALIZING the growth, making it appear as if it’s not growing at all! So what’s causing all the breakage? Dry, brittle hair.



THE MAIN REASON FOR DRY HAIR

You’ll notice that after you trim your hair, the ends seem dry again almost immediately! You’d think it was because of too much heat or blow-drying or maybe a bad perm. Although these treatments can sometimes dry out your hair, they only happen occasionally. The process that happens everyday, drying out your hair is...exposure to the air!



Yes, something that simple can be sapping your hair of life. Think for a moment; air dries your laundry, it cracks your house paint, it chaps your lips, it ashes your skin; it’s a serious drying agent. And when you wear you hair down regularly, air dries out your hair too. The movement of your hair against your clothing can dry your ends even more; and when ends get dry, they break off.



Picture an ear of corn with the husk on it. Did you ever notice how awful the silk looks that’s hanging on the outside of husk? But if you peel the husk down, the silk is soft, shiny and in excellent condition. The only difference is that the top silk has been exposed to the air, while the silk inside the husk has not. Air can cause damage to your hair. WANAKEE Oil for the Hair is a light daily application of protection against dryness that adds a gorgeous shine and allows the hair to remain clean feeling. It’s nice.


DEVELOPING A HEALTHY GROWTH PATTERN

Since the ends are the oldest part of your hair, they suffer the most from this constant exposure to air. You can end the breakage cycle and experience a healthy growth pattern by following these simple rules. They may not seem very significant at a glance, but they are the steps that restored my damaged strands to a full, healthy head of hair. Remember that you want to preserve the ends while the roots grow. Being consistent and patient every day is the key to your success.



1. KEEP YOU HAIR CLEAN AND CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT!



Wash you hair once a week with WANAKEE Beneficial Phase Shampoo or WANAKEE Moisture Emphasis Shampoo and make sure you condition it well. WANAKEE Advanced Conditioning Treatment and WANAKEE Moisture Emphasis Conditioners are made to target dry hair with deep conditioning and extraordinary moisture. Each formula is especially designed with more conditioning action than normal, because you absolutely need it (click onto "product information" for more details).



If you wash your hair less frequently than 7 days or so, the scalp may get irritated and begin to itch. And when dirt begins to build up on the strand, it slows down the brush or comb, creating a pulling affect, which can snap hairs. You’ll find that WANAKEE products make the hair easy to comb through when the hair is wet and when it’s dry. Each product in the line is customized to fit every special need you have throughout your hair regime.



2. WEAR YOUR HAIR IN PROTECTIVE HAIR STYLES AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN



This means wearing your hair ‘up’ in a style that tucks the ends safely underneath the hair so the ends are not seen. Remember the ear of corn with the husk again: protective styling is like taking the dry tip of the silk, and tucking it safely underneath the husk, out of the air. But if your ends go up dry, they’ll come down dry. WANAKEE Constant Care for Ends is the perfect treatment to soften and moisten and guard the ends from becoming brittle. WANAKEE Hairline Essential Creme is made to smooth the hairline in place and while it takes away dryness completely, it holds those shorter hairs in place. It gives the hair a look of sophistication.



My favorite protective styles are the French twist and the chignon (or bun). You should not be able to see the ends at all. A ponytail, for example, wouldn't be considered a protective style because the ends are moving and still exposed to the air. You can really have fun creating these styles, using all types of accessories and enhancing your look with simple things like earrings or a newly tweezed set of eyebrows! You can make your look clean or really do yourself up. Have fun with it.



If your hair is short, you’re going to protect your hair from the air and from too much movement while you sleep.



3. SLEEP WITH YOUR HAIR PROTECTED AT NIGHT.



I know, I know! This is where I lose a lot of you ladies who have spouses; but hear me out. It's important at night, again, to take your hair out of the air and especially to eliminate all of the rubbing that takes place while you sleep. This rubbing can be bad news in the morning when your ends are frayed beyond recognition. A good thing about wrapping (or tying up) your hair at night is that it requires less styling the next day (sometimes you’re actually ready to go with just a quick stroke of the brush).



If you’ve read my brochure, you've heard me say that wrapping your head at night need not be grounds for divorce. You can use a fine meshed hair net over your bun or over your hair if it’s short, and then apply a wide cotton spandex headband around the hairline. It looks similar to a regular daytime look. If you’re still not loving the idea, my next best advice is to put it on late and take it off early! By the way, just sleeping on a silk pillowcase won’t help if your hair is still moving around and exposed to the air.



If your wrap comes off, and at some point it probably will (especially if your hair is short), half a night’s protection is better than none. But this simple, traditional routine of tying the hair up at night is still a very helpful method in maintaining your hair.



4. GET YOUR HAIR TRIMMED EVERY 6 TO 8 WEEKS.



If you’re trying to grow your hair out, this is where protective styles really pay off. Your hair grows ¼ to ½ inch per month, so in 8 weeks it could have grown 1 inch. Let’s say you started your routine with a real good trim. And now, 8 weeks later it’s time for another trim. If you’ve been conditioning, using your Constant Care for Ends and wearing your protective styles everyday, your ends shouldn’t even be split. So now you’re going to trim your hair before it splits. You only have to trim ¼ inch or so because it’s not split. That means you have ¾ of an inch of new length. You put those brand-new, freshly trimmed ends right back up into your protective styles and next month you’ll accumulate another ¾ of an inch - that’s 1 and ½ inches of real length in four months!



Now let’s look at what happens if you don’t wear protective styles. You wear your hair down, it rubs all day against your shoulders and the air makes it dry - but it looks good, I understand.



But here’s what happens: you go to get your trim in 8 weeks and you really only want the hairdresser to take ¼ of an inch off. But she sees damage and split ends as far up as an 1 and ½ inches. She cuts the damage off and, even though your hair has grown an inch, you just lost ½ inch in length because the constant damage caused by your ends being exposed DICTATED TO YOU how much hair had to be cut. With protective styling, you trim before your hair splits and you determine how much you trim off. Every little quarter of an inch is a victory.



Some women have asked me, "What is the point of having long hair if you have to wear it up?" The point of wearing it up is to have long hair. Once a young lady asked, "About how long would it take for me to grow my hair really long?" I told her it would take about 4 years with regular trimmings. She said "Four years? I’ll be 34 years old in four years, that’s too much time!" I had to remind her that she was going to be 34 years old in four years anyway; might as well get there having fabulous hair.



If you have short hair, don’t let all this talk of protective styles disturb you. If you keep your hair cut short and trimmed on a regular basis, it’s automatically healthier by being trimmed more often. It's when hair becomes long that the protective styles become necessary. If you’re not growing your hair long, but are keeping it trimmed and styled at a fixed length, then you can get away with wearing it down more often than the person who is on a mission to grow long hair.



5. SLOW DOWN AND TAKE YOUR TIME WITH YOUR HAIR



This is so important. You must train yourself to be as gentle with your hair as you can. And while you’re at it, treat yourself to the luxury of not being in a hurry. Deliberately set aside a block of time for yourself to do your hair. Get yourself some grapes or a plate of orange slices, a fragrant candle or two. Transform this time into something nice for yourself; you know you deserve it! It’s important because you can take much better care of your hair this way. When you have more time to detangle, you’ll pull out less hairs. When you’re not supposed to be somewhere in half an hour, you’ll place the blow dryer on a slightly lower setting, which is healthier for the hair. Everything works to your advantage when you take your sweet time.



6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD WORKING TOOLS



Use a brush that feels good going through your hair, without pulling or ripping. There are different strengths of brushes; for instance, some natural bristle brushes can be gentler on wet hair than other brushes. Before washing your hair, you want to give your hair a real good brushing to get all the loose hairs out. For this you’ll want to use a brush that really grips; nicely messaging the scalp as well. Shop around for the brushes best suited for you (there are hundreds of good ones to choose from).



Make sure you always have a good detangling comb available; the longer the teeth, the better it can penetrate through thick hair. Don’t comb or brush your hair to detangle it; but detangle it before you comb or brush it. You’ll find out more about how to detangle in my Styling Guide. It’s free with your purchase of WANAKEE products.



When you have bobby pins with a tip that has lifted or come off, stop right there and throw it away! I call those ‘hair killers’; they go into the hair just fine, but when you pull them out, they always pull out hair. Also, when you buy hairpins, make sure the tip is rounded and not blunt. Rounded tips go in smoothly without getting stuck to the strands.



Check the inside of your curling iron to make sure there is no build-up underneath the top section. If there is burnt residue, clean it off. Hairs can drag against this residue and break.


CONCLUSION



With these six steps, you can get started with a good routine. Don't expect not to ever see any hair in your brush. You will always have breakage and shedding. But you should be able to reduce unnecessary breakage to an all-time low with the WANAKEE formulas. It is normal to shed up to 200 hairs per day. If you wear braids, for example, and you let them down after a month, the daily-accumulated hairs that loosened but never fell out can overwhelm you. They’re long and healthy, which really upsets you. But that’s normal. Remember you and are a mammal and mammals shed. Isn’t it funny how we never panic and feel like our cat is going bald when it’s shedding all over the sofa?
 
Natural Gel Option

1/4 cup of oil
1/8 cup whole leaf aloe vera
1 teaspoon of guar gum

Mix with stick blender

( used hazelnut because peanut oil was unavailable)
(Can use gum Arabic or xanthum
Gum instead)

Make sure hair is moistened with water or water based leave-in. Apply gel lightly. Put on scarf to lay down and set hair.

Flax seed gel does nothing for my hair. This oil/aloe Vera/ guar gum works for my hair.
EDIT: Always do a patch test BEFORE putting all over hair. You just never to what you may be allergic. Better to be safe than sorry.
 
I’ve been doing pretty good with keeping my ends moisturized and washing with my Ayurvedic powders weekly. I’ve even mixed up a spray bottle with a little conditioner, oil, and water to spray my ends several times a week for baggying. My hair is in cornrows right now so it’s easy to wash & condition. I’m trying to get on a schedule of braids for 4 weeks, loose hair for 2 weeks.

During the 4 weeks of braids, I plan to wash & condition weekly with Ayurvedic powders, baggy the ends of my braids, and use my growth aids on my scalp.

During the 2 weeks of loose hair, I plan to do a henna treatment one week and use Olaplex or K18 the next week. I will still baggy my ends. I hope I can be consistent with this regimen.
 
I took my braids down after doing the deep moisture method and my hair did not even tangle even after being left alone for 4 weeks. it was glorious!
I bet it was gorgeous! Got photos?
 
I took my braids down after doing the deep moisture method and my hair did not even tangle even after being left alone for 4 weeks. it was glorious!
I'm going to have to join you with this 'glorious' hair result. I pre-pooed, washed my hair and deep conditioned after hair had been slathered with vaseline and placed in a baggy for a week over 3 weeks. My hair was jet black, soft, shiny and moist! It was beautiful tonight.
 
I LOVE the old threads and read them often. So many gems in there.

I recently stumbled upon the oil rinsing thread while doing some research into my old regimens.

 
I LOVE the old threads and read them often. So many gems in there.

I recently stumbled upon the oil rinsing thread while doing some research into my old regimens.


I tried oil rinsing on Monday. I totally forgot about that thread.
 
I woke up to a YouTube video in my feed talking about oil rinsing. I also noted it on my hair routine guide I post in my bathroom. I liked the ‘scritching’ thread by Candi who used oils and Indian powders.
Oh wow. You know, I never saw the scritching thread until you mentioned it. Looked up a video of the guy doing the head massage too. Makes me want to go massage my scalp. Lol.
 
It was ok, but I wasn't entirely sure if what I was doing. If I do it again, I'll be more selective about the oils that I use.
Ahhh okay gotcha.

I'm in the process of reverse engineering my old regimens and for some reason, I really liked castor oil for oil rinsing. It sounds really heavy to me now. I did do it before DC, so maybe a lot of it got rinsed away?

I'm considering trying it out again.
 
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Speaking of oil rinses and oiling the hair...

Another 'hidden gem' from me that I observed: Black women oil hair FIRST, to prepare for putting on Indian powders, teas and powder infused conditioners. It is a very 'black' woman process that was modified. See below. The distinction is very fine, but the distinction is there.




I thought that the ayurvedic hair care we've been doing on LHCF,since 2007 ,was a copy of Indian ayurvedic hair practices. It's not. This is not a criticism. It's an observation and I prefer the way we [via Candy_C] have changed this process to make it fit our hair.

Most Indian woman make an oil infused with Indian powders, or they make a paste with the powders. They oil their hair and then they wash it and their done. I have not seen any videos where Indian women oil their hair first for the purpose of applying powders and then apply powders. I've only seen Black women do this.

What we do is oil our hair with oil that may or may not be infused with Indian powders, followed by application of a tea, or a paste or some powders mixed into our conditioners. Then we deep condition.

LHCF process = Oil hair [dirty] hair+ apply Indian powders [tea/paste/in conditiner]+ Deep Condtion Hair
Indian women process = Oil the hair + wash hair.
Indian women process= Powder infused oil on hair + wash hair
Indian women process = Apply paste of powders + wash hair


Question:

Has anyone seen a video or article where Indian women oil the hair first for the purpose of preparing their hair to receive the powders?
 
Speaking of oil rinses and oiling the hair...

Another 'hidden gem' from me that I observed: Black women oil hair FIRST, to prepare for putting on Indian powders, teas and powder infused conditioners. It is a very 'black' woman process that was modified. See below. The distinction is very fine, but the distinction is there.




I thought that the ayurvedic hair care we've been doing on LHCF,since 2007 ,was a copy of Indian ayurvedic hair practices. It's not. This is not a criticism. It's an observation and I prefer the way we [via Candy_C] have changed this process to make it fit our hair.

Most Indian woman make an oil infused with Indian powders, or they make a paste with the powders. They oil their hair and then they wash it and their done. I have not seen any videos where Indian women oil their hair first for the purpose of applying powders and then apply powders. I've only seen Black women do this.

What we do is oil our hair with oil that may or may not be infused with Indian powders, followed by application of a tea, or a paste or some powders mixed into our conditioners. Then we deep condition.

LHCF process = Oil hair [dirty] hair+ apply Indian powders [tea/paste/in conditiner]+ Deep Condtion Hair
Indian women process = Oil the hair + wash hair.
Indian women process= Powder infused oil on hair + wash hair
Indian women process = Apply paste of powders + wash hair


Question:

Has anyone seen a video or article where Indian women oil the hair first for the purpose of preparing their hair to receive the powders?


I'm pretty sure I saw your original post, but the thread was dead and I think I did find a video where they oiled first. I'll see if I can find it again. The thing about ayurvedic hair practices is that they seem to be regional.
 
Here are some videos:






(Check out the videos of her daughter's hair and routine. Her daughter's hair stays heavily oiled and so she skips the oil pre-treatment.)








She uses a method called "touch up oiling", which is just applying a small amount of oil to the scalp and hair. I don't know if this is her phrase or what it is called in this area.
 
I'm pretty sure I saw your original post, but the thread was dead and I think I did find a video where they oiled first. I'll see if I can find it again. The thing about ayurvedic hair practices is that they seem to be regional.

That is interesting. Another regional consistency I see among women of African descent is the use of chebe powder or other clays with oil, in the hair and on the body, on the African continent.
 
Here are some videos:






(Check out the videos of her daughter's hair and routine. Her daughter's hair stays heavily oiled and so she skips the oil pre-treatment.)








She uses a method called "touch up oiling", which is just applying a small amount of oil to the scalp and hair. I don't know if this is her phrase or what it is called in this area.

I'm looking forward to watching these. Thanks!

Edit: I looked at all of them. One mentioned you can put oil in the hair before. But to me it's still different. With most women with afro-textured hair, there seems to always be some form of purposeful oil used with powders. In these videos, treatments are used with our without oil. But, these videos were interesting to watch.

Most importantly, you are someone who currenty uses ayurverdic processes. You obviously have deep and wide knowledge of it. And your hair is thriving beautifully and magnificently. At the end of the day, It's the results that are the proof in the pudding. Your gorgeous results speak for themselves.
 
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@snoop

Here's a young lady who referenced you and that she follows you on instagram due to your using cloves and other herbs and your having an ayuverdic regimen:
She mentions you starting around 9:43 9 minutes and 43 seconds

 
I'm looking forward to watching these. Thanks!

Edit: I looked at all of them. One mentioned you can put oil in the hair before. But to me it's still different. With most women with afro-textured hair, there seems to always be some form of purposeful oil used with powders. In these videos, treatments are used with our without oil. But, these videos were interesting to watch.

Most importantly, you are someone who currenty uses ayurverdic processes. You obviously have deep and wide knowledge of it. And your hair is thriving beautifully and magnificently. At the end of the day, It's the results that are the proof in the pudding. Your gorgeous results speak for themselves.


The trends have come and gone, so forgive me when I ask what the difference is between why we oil our hair before applying ayurvedic masks vs when South Asians do it? For some of these women, their oil use may be tied into their religious/cultural practices. Others may be chasing long hair and YT dollars like the rest of "us".

I have found, not only with Ayurveda but with many of "our" hair trends, that after a while the way that we do our treatments and the reasons why tend to become somewhat of an echo chamber. People do things because someone in YT/social media/the web said so, but they have no idea what the original purpose was. Or maybe they are things from our own cultural past that we revive without knowing why it was done in the first place. This is not bad, it's just how things are. Doing so has help many Afro heads of hair immensely. Overall, I often find that people just want "long" hair and they will not stop to deconstruct ingredients, processes, and philosophies like we do here.

But why do we oil our hair first? To detangle? To create a buffer? Detangling can be done using other products, like conditioners.

Why do we wet our hair or even shampoo it before applying masks. Most often I hear that it's to provide a clean base for better absorbtion of the herbs. But then why oil it? Perhaps because it makes more sense to shampoo leaves out of your hair after you put them in (in a western sense of shampooing)?

The South Asian ladies in these videos apply to dry hair and their hair looks great, but aside from the idea that our herbs need to be finely milled, how did we come up with the idea that these things won't work for us (at all).

Not that oil is bad, but it's not necessary to use if you are willing to be patient and approach ayurvedic masks slowly and/or develop a combination of ingredients that work well for your hair instead of using what's on trend.


Thank you for the hair compliment. The questions that I ask above are the same ones that I used when developing my regimen. Asking: Why, why, why?
 
@snoop

Here's a young lady who referenced you and that she follows you on instagram due to your using cloves and other herbs and your having an ayuverdic regimen:
She mentions you starting around 9:43 9 minutes and 43 seconds



Thank you for this. I didn't realize that she mentioned me in the video. I follow her as well on Insta. Her hair is so beautiful!
 
Thank you for this. I didn't realize that she mentioned me in the video. I follow her as well on Insta. Her hair is so beautiful!
I hope you have let her know that! I think that would be such a lovely treat for her to hear directly from you. And to tell her this compliment would probably make her entire day!
 
The trends have come and gone, so forgive me when I ask what the difference is between why we oil our hair before applying ayurvedic masks vs when South Asians do it? For some of these women, their oil use may be tied into their religious/cultural practices. Others may be chasing long hair and YT dollars like the rest of "us".

I have found, not only with Ayurveda but with many of "our" hair trends, that after a while the way that we do our treatments and the reasons why tend to become somewhat of an echo chamber. People do things because someone in YT/social media/the web said so, but they have no idea what the original purpose was. Or maybe they are things from our own cultural past that we revive without knowing why it was done in the first place. This is not bad, it's just how things are. Doing so has help many Afro heads of hair immensely. Overall, I often find that people just want "long" hair and they will not stop to deconstruct ingredients, processes, and philosophies like we do here.

But why do we oil our hair first? To detangle? To create a buffer? Detangling can be done using other products, like conditioners.

Why do we wet our hair or even shampoo it before applying masks. Most often I hear that it's to provide a clean base for better absorbtion of the herbs. But then why oil it? Perhaps because it makes more sense to shampoo leaves out of your hair after you put them in (in a western sense of shampooing)?

The South Asian ladies in these videos apply to dry hair and their hair looks great, but aside from the idea that our herbs need to be finely milled, how did we come up with the idea that these things won't work for us (at all).

Not that oil is bad, but it's not necessary to use if you are willing to be patient and approach ayurvedic masks slowly and/or develop a combination of ingredients that work well for your hair instead of using what's on trend.


Thank you for the hair compliment. The questions that I ask above are the same ones that I used when developing my regimen. Asking: Why, why, why?
Your question:
"The trends have come and gone, so forgive me when I ask what the difference is between why we oil our hair before applying ayurvedic masks vs when South Asians do it?"


My response:
At what point the hair is oiled, during the process, is simply an observation about a detail, to be noted, for me. Nothing more. Nothing less.
But, the details may become pertinent if I see a trend of something that is positively, impacting the health and growth of afro-textured hair.
 
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