hairTips

[Spagirl]

As always, take and modify that which is useful to you and discard the rest.

In lieu of "Damaged Hair Treatment Instructions":

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Laginappe said:
I found this on another site. Its long but informative.
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Here are my Conditioning recs for fixing Dehydrated, Chemically and/or Heat Damaged Hair, and/or Dry hair (lacking Oils):

These products (Aphogee Treatment, PM Supercharged, Nexxus Emergencee, and Porosity Control) will work on ALL damaged hair types, with the EXCEPTION of curly permed hair. Using the Porosity Control on Chemically Curly Permed Hair, MAY loosen the curl.

Alternative shampoos have been listed below for those unable to use the Sebastian Laminates...which is BEST for VERY thick, wavy/curly or coarse hair. Can be used on Straight hair...if the hair is VERY thick in abundance, and at least a med coarseness.


1 - Do an Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair, and then RINSE OUT.
2 - then do the PM Supercharged (for 15 min), and RINSE OUT.
3 - then use the Porosity Control (for 15 min), and RINSE OUT.

If your hair is ALSO "dry" (lacking in oils), you will need to incorporate a Hot Oil Treatment once per week. I rec Queen Helene's Cholesterol Hot Oil. It is avail at Sallys, and is color safe!

If your hair IS damaged due to heat or chemicals, then Dryness is the first damage stage (oils have been stripped away). This can also occur from HARSH SHAMPOOS! Avoid shampoos containing Ammonium Laurel Sulfate...which is very DRYING to hair. Look for Sodium Laurel Sulfate, or Sodium Laureth Sulfate. While also somewhat drying, using a shampoo that does not contain them, may not be "cleansing enough" to remove dirt and styling product buildup. If your hair is REALLY fried...just skip shampooing all together for a while! Or, dillute your shampoo with water. Put in a tint bottle, and apply the shampoo sparingly JUST TO the scalp. Massage in...and RINSE OUT! Do not apply shampoo to your hair strands.

Hair that is Dehydrated (lacking in moisture), is usally ALWAYS also DRY (lacking in oils). But Dry hair is NOT always Dehydrated. It depends on how DEEP the damage has gone into your hairshaft.


Hair Damage has 3 stages:#1 = Dry (oil has been stripped) You need a Hot Oil Treatment once per week.

#2 = Dehydrated (moisture has been stripped...which means hair is also POROUS). You need PM Supercharged Moisturizer + Porosity Control.

#3= VERY DAMAGED STAGE! Protein Bonds have been broken (hair breaking)--Use Aphogee Treatment ....or Protein Bonds have been STRIPPED (hair is spongy when wet...melts off!) --use BOTH Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair, and use Nexxus Emergencee.

The following TREATMENT is written for those with a #3 STAGE OF DAMAGE. If you have less damage (Stage 2 or 1), then use those products appropriate for you. However, following the below treatments will NOT hurt your hair, even if you do not have a level 3 stage of damage. Neglecting to do them, however, if you DO have a level 3 damage, IS bad.



Aphogee Treatment (for level 2's AND 3)
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Repeat once every 5 weeks and BEFORE (24-48 hours BEFORE coloring) AND AFTER any FULL BLEACH or TINT or COLOR REMOVER process. Not necessary for just "root touchups".

Day 1 - Light shampoo with Sebastian's Laminates Shampoo. (if your scalp is OILY, use a gentle shampoo for Normal hair, on scalp only. Do not pour shampoo directly on length of hair strands). If your hair is VERY thin....use Nexxus Diametress Shampoo.

Aphogee Treatment - ALWAYS wear a Salon Cape [Sallys], or drape a towel around your neck and shoulders WHEN EVER you use a PROFESSIONAL product. These are VERY strong. The Aphogee can cause an irritation on your skin (burning sensation...redness...welting) IF it is allowed to remain on your skin for LONG periods of time (as in you did not rinse it all off!). Drying time in Aphogee can vary according to how damaged your hair is ...or how long or how thick it is. It takes me between 25-45 min to get it HARD! You must let it get HARD and Stiff before rinsing. I use a blow dryer on high heat, high air flow setting. Just keep drying until your hair is REALLY HARD.

Rinse this product off in the SHOWER, for 2 reasons:
1)you do NOT want to manipulate your hair while it is in the HARD stage. It could SNAP off. Do not touch it as you BLOW DRY or sit under a hooded dryer. Do not bend your head over a sink.
2) RINSE off all the Aphogee from your neck and shoulder area. This does NOT irritate the scalp but it does irritate the other skin if left on for a few hours.

If your hair is not damaged enough to warrant their use...nothing will happen. You just won't notice a dramatic change. BUT, if your hair IS damaged...you will LOVE the results!

Follow any Aphogee Treatment with an application of PM Supercharged.
* Leave the PM on for about 15 min. - Rinse
Follow up with Porosity Control IF hair is porous.
* Leave the PC on for about 15 min. - Rinse

Day 2-8 - Light Shampoo with Laminates Shampoo.
Nexxus Emergencee Treatment (for level 3 Damage) + follow up with PM Supercharged, and then Porosity Control..if needed. Repeat this for a total of 7 consecutive times, every time you wash your hair. Days 2-8.

Day 9+ - use Nexxus Emergencee ONCE a week...until hair regains normal strength. Always follow with PM Supercharged.

During this time, continue to use the Porosity Control as needed. Keep the Porosity Control on for 15 min...not the 30 sec as per directions.

YOU must ALWAYS use the PM Supercharged after the Aphogee or Nexxus. Or your hair will feel BRITTLE and ROUGH.
Porosity Control helps to make hair LESS porous. And it restores hair to the proper pH levels.....it is an "acidifier". It will make your hair more sleek and shiny and conditioned.

Use the PM Gloss Drops before and after blow drying.

For ADDED protection from heat...or if hair is VERY chemically stressed...use the Wellatex "Liquid Hair Leave-In Protein Reconstructor". You must spray on damp hair, comb through, and do not use any other products. Blow dry with AIR HEAT only (not brush) until hair is 80% dry. Then add Gloss Drops, gel, whatever...and style/blow dry with brush, etc. Because the Liquid Hair contains Protein, it is DRYING, and you must use the Gloss Drops on your hair BEFORE blowdrying.

If you want to do a "Gloss Treatment" without adding COLOR....use the Radiance ClearShine alone...with just the Infuser.
Use 2 oz. Clear Gloss mixed in an applicator bottle with 2 oz. Infuser

*NOTE: If you have an OILY Scalp/Damaged Hair...just use the conditioning products from your midlengths to your ends. NOT on scalp or hair roots! That includes GLoss Drops! Only apply gloss drops to the LENGTH of your hair.

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I feel compelled to modify this "Build up" post:

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Spagirl said:
#63

Product Buildup

Most people have heard the old wives tale "that you should change your shampoo from time to time as it "builds up". This is not entirely untrue as some cheaper products do leave a film on the surface that can build up over time. Your hair and scalp also change constantly and so your shampoo and conditioner needs to change to deal with different concerns.
If your hair looks or feels lifeless, or when you comb or brush it you get a flaky powder along the hair shaft (this is not dandruff!) you may have a product buildup problem.

Buildup occurs when:

Certain products like non-water soluble waxes are used to style the hair.( <font color="blue">Spagirl note: as well as any non-water soluble product including some <font color="red"> "cones"</font>. ) </font>
2 in 1 shampoos are used continuously.
Certain nonprofessional shampoos cause buildup due to the type of cheaper ingredients they use to give instant combability. These can form a film on the hair or you may have to use a large amount to make your hair feel clean also resulting in buildup.
Hair sprays applied too close and in too strong a concentration to one area e.g. the fringe, leave a flaking powder on the hair after brushing.
If gel is applied in a blob it cannot spread through the rest of the hair causing build-up on that spot. We sometimes find that wetting your hands before getting the gel out of the pot and mixing it can solve this problem.
<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: conditioners can cause build up. Especially the ones made to coat the hair that contain "cones".) </font>


To cure a build-up problem:

Use a special purifying shampoo to remove previous products. <font color="blue">(Spagirl note: Use clarifying shampoos or ACV rinses as needed)</font>
Change your habits; apply spray further away from the hair approx. 15cm or 6", work gel around your wet hands before putting it through your hair.
Try a water-soluble wax.
Separate your 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner by getting a good old fashioned 2-step process.
Use professional products, as the ingredient quality is where the money is spent not on expensive TV ad campaigns.
As a general rule, use less than you think, resulting only in a shape that won't last as long. Too much will leave the hair sticky or heavy and hard to work with.
When applying any product to hair always pop it onto your hands first then work it around them. This will spread the product so that as you put it into the hair you won't get patches of too much.

<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: When left unchecked build up can lead to brittle hair followed by breakage.) </font>

Edited to add:
Brittle hair followed by breakage is referencing build up due to non-water soluble build-up.

Tips from Virtualhaircare.com.au.

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When finding a way to rid the hair of build up I think it is important to be mindful of some of these previously posted tips (see previous posts pages):

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7. If you're using a strong, clarifying shampoo, it could be stripping your hair of essential oils.

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The use of strong-action shampoo is prohibited for dry hair. Often a generous oil application and massage is recommended before washing the hair. Frequent shampooing is harmful for dry hair.

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Some curly girls shampoo, and others choose to skip shampooing and opt for conditioning rinses only. Shampooing weekly isn't a necessity, curly girls can use a conditioner to effectively rinse away excess dirt and oil. However, it is recommended that you shampoo at least once a month, 2-3x is optimal. Avoid using shampoos that strip your hair of essential elements <font color="blue">(spagirl note: That is, stripping more than the build up you want to get rid of) </font> , leaving your hair feeling dry and unmanageable.

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6. For oily hair, use a gentle shampoo but leave it on your hair for a longer period of time rather than using a harsh clarifying shampoo.

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If you choose to use a "Clarifying" type shampoo you might want to consider:

- Apply some form of protection in the form of a pretreatment be it oil, conditioner, etc.. This could be benefical due to the harshness of some of these type of shanmpoos (all clarifying shampoos are not created equal).

-Dilute your shampoo with water, put in a tint bottle, and apply the shampoo sparingly JUST TO the scalp. Massage in...and RINSE OUT! Do not apply shampoo directly to your hair strands. Allow the shampoo rinse water to cleans your hair (modification of tip taken from "Damaged Hair Treatment Instructions" post)

-Avoid shampoos containing Ammonium Laurel Sulfate...which is very DRYING to hair. Look for Sodium Laurel Sulfate, or Sodium Laureth Sulfate. (tip taken from "Damaged Hair Treatment Instructions" post)

-Apple Cider Vinegar Rinses (diluted with water) have been used successfully by many to keep build up at bay instead of use a clarifying shampoo.

-Depending on the product used and the degree of stripping done to you hair be prepared to help your hair recover.

Recovery

-Many have found by immediately following up the clarifying shampoo with a lather from a good moisturizing shampoo (one that gives you slip) helps to restore some of the moisture loss because of its moisturizing ingredients/properties (thanks Supergirl

). I've tried this (KeraCare Hydrating Shampoo) and my hair has felt better immediately.

-fixing Dehydrated, Chemically and/or Heat Damaged Hair, and/or Dry hair (lacking Oils)


In closing I leave this quote to ponder in the formulation of your own regime. Though it caters to regular shampooing I leave you to decide its possible significance:

A Buyer's Guide to Choosing the Right Shampoo
From August 2001 InStyle

Coarse, Kinky Hair: This is the driest hair type, so an ultramoisturizing shampoo is essential, says Edward Morrison or West Hollywood's EDM Salon. Look for ingredients like shea butter and heavy oils such as coconut or macadamia nut, which help to coat the shaft, trapping water. Apply a deep conditioner from roots to ends before and after shampooing.

Thick, Wavy or Curly Hair: This hair type tends to be dry, so you want a rich, creamy shampoo formulated with gentle detergetns such as sodium laureth sulfate and water-binding humectants like propylene glycol. Wait an extra day between washings to allow your scalp's natural oils to condition hair and prevent drying, suggests Mark Garrison of the Mark Garrison Salon in New York City. Apply a deep conditioner with cuticle-smoothing proteins both before and after shampooing.

Dry, damaged hair: Choose creamier shampoos formulated with a mild detergent such as sodium laureth sulfate, plus rich conditioning agents such as shea butter or lanolin, which smooth the hair shaft, defuse static electricity, and improve combability. After shampooing, apply a sizable dollop of an ultramoisturizing conditioner (look for shea butter, natural oils and proteins) from roots to ends. Leave it on for five to 20 minutes before rinsing.

HTH!

 

[deeshortesthair]

Hey this guy is one block away from my office, I did see this girl with the straightest , sharp cut ever and I asked her where she went and she told me about the salon .. so I walked down the block and there it was... I didn't have the budget to get my hair cut by him, so mabey next year/the end of the year when my hair is at least 10 inches long.

 

[Spagirl]

This information blew me away so I had to share. Talk about hair 101+....this is it. Enjoy!

Hair Upclose

A closer look at hair: It all begins here!
“Let’s talk science…” A closer look at hair will make you see beyond what you normally see and touch. See what the naked eye cannot see. After all, this is where the process of permanent wave, permanent hair straightening, Thermal Reconditioning, color, bleach and highlights begins; in the cortex (disulfide/cystine bond). It is here where the chemicals transform and rearrange the natural curl pattern of the hair from curly to straight, and vice versa.

What is keratinization, what in fact is hair! Chemical analysis of the hair reveals that each strand is composed of 70-85% protein. The strongest bond and most important when it comes to hair straightening is the cystine or disulfide bond. Any chemical service that alters the cortex may cause protein loss. Hair that is lacking protein will break easily. Natural color will look dull and lifeless and appear lighter in spots. Protein loss almost never occurs without moisture loss.

Hair, the way nature intended it to be. Beneath the scalp and under each and every hair fiber there is a living bulb. This bulb is composed of rapidly dividing cells that are genetically and biologically destined to become the principle components of the hair fiber. As these cells divide in the hair follicle, they are pushed upwards the scalp and change their shape, lose moisture, and become “cemented together” (cross-linked by the cystine/disulfide bonds) to form the hair fiber. This process of hardening is called Keratinization.

Keratinization. The hair fiber itself is primarily comprised of hardened cells (having produced in the bulb). These hardened cells are primarily comprised of proteins often called keratin (typically 93%). Thus the hair can be viewed as a “protein fiber”. In addition to the protein structure, there are traces of cellular material in the fiber including minerals, carbohydrates, and lipids (oils) in various forms, but by and large, the structural competency of the fiber depends on its protein (keratin) structure.

Moisture plays a part as well, since water can bind to this protein structure and the hair fiber may hold up to 16% of its weight in moisture in normal, healthy hair. The amount of course depends on the relative humidity. The higher the relative humidity, the more water the hair is able to hold. With these things in mind, it is therefore easy to see that much of the behaviour of the hair is determined by the relative amounts of protein and moisture—thus, partially explaining why the hair may sometimes appear either dried out and brittle or soft and limp.

A closer look at the cuticle, cortex and medulla. Each individual strand is composed of three distinct layers which have different functions. The cuticle or the outermost layer of the hair is a hard, shingle-like layer of over-lapping cells some 5 to 12 deep. It acts as a protective barrier for the softer inner structure and is said to be hydrophobic or water resistant. The cuticle is the first line of defence against all forms of damage.

When the cuticle is damaged, the hair appears dull, tangles easily, and has a rough texture. The more dehydrated and heat damaged the hair cuticle, the duller and frizzier your hair looks. Hair with cuticle damage will wet easily, which means that it absorbs liquids very fast— humidity and moisture cause the hair to frizz. This characteristic, “high porosity” can lead to further damage of the interior layers of the hair.

Moreover, as the hair gets older and longer, the cuticle layers wear away leaving hair susceptible to damage. The cuticle is extremely important to the cosmetic condition of hair not only because of its protective functions, but because it determines how the hair reflects light—its sheen or lustre. It is also the only layer that we normally see or touch.

Cuticle damage can be caused by mechanical abuse during styling, and by chemical services. Bobby pins, barrettes, etc. may cause pinch marks, rubbing the hair and causing damage to the cuticle. Excess heat from blow dryers, hot irons, and hot rollers can weaken the cuticle layers, leading to split ends, and a dry, dull appearance of the hair. Moderately hot water and high water pressure will cause the cuticle to peel. Mechanical abuse such as brushing hair while wet, can cause extreme damage to the hair that is nearly impossible to repair.

The cuticle is the most resistant part of the hair. Cuticle proteins do not stretch and are more brittle than the cortical proteins. In fact, as the hair is stretched the cuticle will actually crack before the cortex breaks. It is important to teach “at-home maintenance” to prevent this damage from occurring.

If you stack some paper drinking cups inside one another, the top edges of the cup would represent the cuticle layers as they overlap. This type of overlapping arrangement is called imbrications, and they normally lie flat. The cuticle layers point toward the end of the hair shaft. They cannot be seen by the naked eye but they can be felt. If you slide your fingers along a dry hair from the end towards the scalp, the hair will feel sticky or rough—you are sliding your fingers against the cuticle and are lifting the imbrications/cuticle scales.

The cortex or centre portion of the hair strand lies beneath the cuticle. It looks like the spiral on the back of a notebook. One tiny fiber, a micro fibril and macro fibril will coil around other fibers to make a larger micro fibril. These fibers coil around each other to create the cortex. This spiral structure, much like a rope or yarn, makes the hair extremely strong and gives it elasticity.

The cortex is the main section of the hair, and it is here that we find the pigment granules that give hair its color. The cortex also contains the structure that gives hair its shape. This is the part of hair that we affect when we style it. When the hair is too curly or too straight, we chemically change the structure within the cortex (disulfide bonds) to add or remove curl “permanently”. The cortex also holds the hair’s water content. Because of this relationship, we might think of the cortex as springs arranged in a very thick protein/water “cement”.

The medullary canal is a hollow or partially hollow shaft which appears in some hair strands. It seems to have no effect with regard to the strength of the hair, but its presence or absence can alter the way in which the hair interacts with light. The exact function or purpose of the medulla has not yet been determined by scientists.

It is essential to have a competent hair structure. For example, if the cuticle is raised or abraded, chemical services may not respond satisfactorily, and the effects of humidity may compromise the longevity of the result on straightened/TRd hair. The structural competency or compactness of the cortex is important as well. If the cortex is disordered, the hair may not be able to withstand chemical services and it will cause the hair to become more disordered and/or break apart at various places in and along the fiber.

In describing hair, we usually speak of its texture, porosity, elasticity and density. The Texture of hair may be coarse, medium or fine, this is usually determined by the diameter of the hair—coarse hair has a large diameter. Another way of saying this is that coarse hairs are thick and fine hairs are thin. The texture and porosity are judged together in determining the processing time during a chemical service. Although porosity is the most important of the two, texture does have a part in judging processing time.

Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb moisture. The processing time for any chemical service depends much more on hair porosity than on any other factor. Coarse hair that is porous will process faster than fine hair that is not porous. The more porous the hair, the less processing time it takes, and a milder solution is required. Hair porosity is affected by excessive exposure to mechanical abuse such as blow-dryers, hot irons, sun, chlorine and continued use of harsh shampoos, colors, highlights and straighteners/relaxers. Hair that’s over-porous should not receive a chemical straightening/TR treatment until the hair has been reconditioned, or removed by cutting.

Elasticity refers to the ability of the hair to stretch beyond its normal length and then spring back. Normal hair when wet can be stretched to about 40 to 50% of its normal length and return. Dry hair is not so elastic, it will stretch about 20 percent of its length and return to its normal position. When elasticity damage occurs, the cortex have been seriously disrupted or even destroyed.



The Proto-fibrils are connected to a single multi-strand cable known as the "Micro-fibril”. Hundreds of Micro-Fibrils form an irregular bundle of fibers, the "Macro-fibril". The "cable strand" (fiber strand) is made up of many macro-fibrils. The "hair shaft" in turn is made up of these cable strands. The "medullar channel" containing the "medulla" is located at the centre of the hair shaft. Its structure has not been fully identified as yet. What is known is that the medullar channel is partially filled with a spongy hornlike substance displaying sizeable cavities in places. The space in between the fibrils (cable strands) and the scale layer (cuticula) is filled with "matrix" (filler substance). This filler substance consists of proteins, not in the form of helical spirals in this case, but in the form of amorphous (shapeless) substance. The hair shaft is surrounded by the "cuticula" (scale layer). This consists of numerous scale layers (up to 10), positioned on top of each other with their edges always pointing towards the end of the hair. Filler substance is located even between the scale layers, holding the individual scale layers together. The proportion of filler material has been enlarged in the diagram.

 

[Spagirl]

Hair 101+ continued.

Know Your Hair &amp; Products

Hair treatment and care: The hair in order to be reconditioned properly needs to have the vital elements that have been eliminated by daily abuse. A protein-based formula of the correct molecular weight and size range builds strength into hair to improve the way it responds to chemical services. A moisturizing-based formula softens and adds flexibility.

Hair, when it looses many of its protein parts through combing, brushing, heat styling and chemical services becomes “tired” (loose protein) and must be fed with protein and moisturizers to replenish the supply. If this “food” (protein) is not present, the hair becomes badly damaged “sick”, no bounce, brittle and dry. Grooming products such as shampoos and conditioners used on the hair are an important indicator as to whether you are using properly formulated products of a proper pH value. Certain types of formulations or products of highly alkaline pH may cause chemical damage to the hair when used over a period of time.

Healthy hair should have a moisture content of nine to eleven percent. This gives the hair pliability that it needs to hold a style and lubricates the interior layers of the hair so it has bounce and body. Moisture imbalance happens when the cuticle is damaged. The hair can have too much or too little moisture, that of too little is more common. The most common cause of moisture damage is thermal styling. Dryness is also a side effect of chemical services. Chemical service that alters the cortex may cause protein loss, protein loss almost never occurs without moisture loss.

Curly hair has an abundance of strength (protein) but lack in moisture (less elastic). This interrelationship causes naturally curly hair to be disproportioned, making the hair feel dry and brittle. Therefore, the shampoo must put moisture into the hair, and it should be followed-up with a detangling conditioner, and a moisturizing protein treatment.

When the hair is found to be in a structurally incompetent condition, it must be “reconditioned” to take the hair from an undesirable state to a more cosmetically pleasing one. With proper reconditioning you can virtually alter the properties of the hair cortex by altering its compactness—thus making it stronger and more flexible. I always feel that we treat the damage first and moisturize or "seal" second.

 

[Spagirl]

Hair 101+ continued

Structural Test

Determine the condition of your hair!

Select a strand of hair - without stretching it - from the side of your head above the ears (make sure it represents the general condition of your hair).


Hold it between your thumb and forefinger. With your thumbnail and index finger of the other hand, run the distance of hair rapidly as you would curl a ribbon with scissors.


This will create a series of small curls.


Then gently hold the hair straight for 10 seconds and release.


If the hair completely, or almost completely returns to the curl pattern, it is in good condition. If it returns only 50% or less, the hair is structurally weak and will require reconditioning. —Under NO circumstances should any major salon services (permanent wave, color or TR) be given when the hair is in this range. It needs proper hair care and a network of protein to build strength and flexibility into hair to give it substance and resilience.


Understanding the structure and composition of hair contributes to an overall appreciation of reconditioning. Hair is a fibrous structure that consists of:


The Cortex, a spiral of proteins that forms the inner structure of hair.

The Cuticle, flat, hardened keratin protein that surrounds the cortex.

Besides protein, water makes up most of the rest of hair's composition. A balance between protein and moisture is essential to healthy hair. When that balance is damaged by external elements, heat styling or excessive chemical services, hair needs reconditioning.

Healthy Hair: The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.


Split End: Inner cortex is frayed due to loss of cuticle. Brushing, heat styling, chemical processing and environmental factors can cause cuticle damage and split ends.

Knotted Hair: Hair breaks more easily at points where it is knotted or twisted. Knots and twists are caused by excessive brushing, playing with hair, heat styling or wind exposure.

Healthy Hair: The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.

Did you know hair grows approximately 1/2 inch per month? There are about 130,000 hairs on the average scalp.

Q. If all hair is made up primarily of protein, why is everyone's hair so different?

The answer to this question lies in three factors which affect hair:


Heredity - The genes each person inherits determine many things about the makeup of hair, such as its color, shape and diameter.


Environment - If it's rainy or humid, hair will absorb moisture from the air. This extra moisture will alter some of the chemical bonds that give hair its shape. Fine hair may become limp or curly hair may become frizzy. Other conditions, such as sun and wind may dry and damage hair. These conditions necessitate products that shield hair from elements of the environment.


Products - Shampoos, conditioners, hair dryers, straightening and curling irons, hair color and texture services all affect the structural composition of the hair.

 

[Spagirl]

Hair 101+ continues...

Porosity Test


Test the porosity of your hair. In order to test accurately for porosity, use three different areas: front hairline, in front of ears, and near the crown. Grasp small strands of dry hair and comb smoothly. Hold the ends firmly with the thumb and index finger of one hand and slide the fingers of the other hand from the ends towards the scalp. If the fingers do not slide easily, or if the hair ruffles up as your fingers slide down the stand, the hair is porous.

The more ruffles formed, the more porous is the hair. The less ruffles formed, the less porous is the hair. If the fingers slide easily and no ruffles are formed, the cuticle layer lays close to the hair shaft. This type of hair is least porous, is most resistant and will require a longer processing time.

Elasticity Test


Test the elasticity of your hair. Hair elasticity is a very important factor to consider when giving a hair straightening/Thermal Reconditioning treatment. All hair is elastic, but its elasticity ranges from very good to poor. Hair with very good elasticity will produce resilient straightness. Hair with fairly good elasticity will produce slightly less than average resilient straightness. Hair with poor elasticity, also known as limp hair, will result in a very small amount of resiliency of straightness. If the keratin molecular make up exhibits above average percent elongation or elasticity (allowing the fibers to stretch too much) the hair will not be resilient. Under No circumstances should chemical services be given when the hair is in this range.

Hair will change its elasticity from time to time. Usually, porous hair loses its elasticity faster than non-porous hair. This change may be temporary due to humidity and temperature, the type of shampoo used, the amount of hair spray/gels used, and drying action of wind and sun.

Signs of poor elasticity: When the hair is wet, it feels spongy, limp, tangles easily and stretches excessively without returning to its normal position. The most common cause of this serious condition is chemical services such as color, highlight, permanent straightener/TR either given improperly or too often, or both. Elasticity damage can also be caused by brushing wet hair—stretching the hair beyond its limit. The elasticity qualities of hair will determine the rate of success in permanent hair straightening/TR.

Take a single dry hair and hold it between your thumb and forefinger of the other hand. Slowly stretch it between them. The further it can be stretched without breaking, the more elastic is the hair. If elasticity is good, the hair slowly contracts after stretching. Hair with poor elasticity will break quickly and easily when stretched. The hair must be acclimatized for 12 hours before running the test.

 

[Spagirl]

Hair 101+ continues...Last but not least:

pH And Your Hair

pH, what does it mean to you?

pH refers to whether a product is alkaline or acidic and is as important to a hairstylist as Rx is to a doctor or pharmacist. The scale ranges from 0.0 having the highest concentration of acid, to 14.0 having the least. Pure water is at the middle of the pH scale and has equal parts of acidity and alkalinity. So it is neutral. The hair itself has no pH since it is solid, but the protective mantle of the hair has a pH that ranges from 4.5 to 5.5 on the scale.

Anything that you apply to the hair that is below 4.5 will act as an acid; it will harden, constrict and shrink the hair. Anything that you apply to the hair above 5.5 will act as an alkali; soften, swell and expand the hair and change the interior. Therefore, always ensure that the protective pH 4.5 to 5.5 has been returned.

The measurement of pH is very important because the largest external organs on the human body, the skin, hair and nails are mildly acidic. Human hair is at its greatest strength, lustre and flexibility when the average acid mantle is between pH 4.5 to 5.5. Likewise, our skin is softer and more resilient when it falls within a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5.

Scientifically formulated shampoos, conditioners and treatments, can give hair the beautiful shine, body and resilience of healthy hair, and dramatically improve its outer appearance. Look for hair care products that are acid balanced. Redken hair care products are formulated with a mildly acidic pH of 4.5 to 5.5 to be compatible with the acid mantle of hair and skin. Your knowledge of pH will enable you to select products that will leave your hair and skin in as natural and healthy environment as possible.

The term alkaline refers to the ammonium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide (lye) present in a product. Its purpose is to raise the pH of a product so the chemical reaction will process rapidly. Because of its alkalinity it tends to strip the hair and scalp from its natural oils, this could be drying or even irritating to your hair and skin. Alkali is found in soaps, most shampoos, and in general household cleaners.

It is important to remember that pH is logarithmic; each number multiplies itself by ten (x10). Example: pH 8 is ten (10x) times more alkali than pH 7. pH 14 is ten million (x10,000,000) times more alkali than pH 7. On the acidic side of the scale, pH 6 is ten (x10) times more acidic than pH 7.

Your own pH test result lab! Litmus paper (an absorbent pH test paper), is an indicator for acid and alkalis. It is used to test the pH level of water soluble products, such as shampoos etc. About a 2 inch strip of paper is torn off and dipped into the product and read immediately. The color of the paper that matches the test color chart is the pH. Litmus papers are generally sold in drug stores.

These Hair 101+ and much more can be found at verticalsinhair.com....Get them while you can!
Many thanks to SoulChild.

 

[Spagirl]

While viewing a site give by Iris (thanks!) a link to another site was give. I thought those who have an "interest in ph" would also find this interesting:

Shampoos and Conditioners for dry and oily hair

Excessive shampooing is the main cause of damage to the hair shafts. The best shampoos for hair should be at a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 or at the pH of the scalp and hair which has a natural pH between 4.5 and 5.5 or slightly acid. This natural acid environment of the hair and scalp helps keep the hair proteins hard and prevents the growth of foreign bacteria. The natural hair and skin oils also help maintain scalp health.

Shampoos of higher pH (more alkaline) work better to clean the hair and scalp but more alkaline shampoos strip away too many natural scalp oils and extract the "glues" that help hold the hair shafts together. Experts say that these high pH alkaline shampoos make your hair look great for a few weeks but then cause the hair to become dry and brittle which and increases breakage of your hair. Also, avoid baby shampoos which are formulated for gentleness if they get in to the eyes but dry out the hair.

Be careful of "clarifying shampoos". They are rather harsh and intended to remove materials that build up on hair such as mousses and sprays but they also can remove color and perms. Some hair experts recommend avoiding such shampoos and instead just mix, in your hand, plain baking soda from your kitchen with your normal shampoo and apply this to your hair to remove build up.

The foaming of shampoos is often enhanced by "flash-foamers" but foaming means that too much shampoo was used and/or the shampoo is filled with foaming chemicals. Likewise, fragrances have no positive effect on shampoos. The test of a shampoo is what your hair looks like after using the shampoo for a week or two. Examine your hair's condition after this time. Does is seem healthy and easy to comb or is it hard to comb and limp looking? Also check to see if the hair becomes dry and if your scalp become itchy. If a shampoo doesn't work for you, try another brand. The cost of a shampoo is not generally related to quality but to advertising.

Dry hair lacks enough natural oils. To shampoo, use a minimum amount of a mild and slightly acid shampoo. Do not over shampoo and do not repeat the shampoo application regardless of instructions. Cosmetic companies try to increase your use of their product. If your hair is very dry, only shampoo every two to three days. Our ancestors went months between hair washing and had healthy hair.

Oily hair is more difficult to manage and shampoo. Oily hair looks moist, dull and is often difficult to comb. The fatty substance that covers oily hair called sebum is over produced by the sebaceous glands of the hair follicle. Sebum is rapidly is restored after washing the hair. More frequent washing with stronger, more soapy shampoos helps remove oil but damages the hair. Retinoic acid may be used to reduce oil production. Retinoic acid also stimulates hair growth and increases follicle health. But do not overuse the retinoic acid since this can result in scalp irritation.

When finished, the shampoo should be completely rinsed from the hair to help bring the pH back down to its natural level. Also, the detergents in shampoos are very irritating to the scalp and must be completely removed. Most experts recommend using a shower for the most complete removal of the shampoo.

Some shampoo manufacturers recommend that you comb through your wet hair to distribute the shampoo evenly into the hair. But wet hair is more easily broken way and you will only end up with worse hair.

 

[Spagirl]

Interest in ph continues:

Conditioners to re-glue hair cuticles

The outer layer of hair forms cuticles somewhat like fish scales and is shown in the picture to the left. A healthy strand of hair has an outer layer of scales that are laying close above each other. If scales are laying flat, the hair will look shiny, and a comb or brush will glide smoothly. The cuticles are glued down by mixtures of polypeptides - similar to the yellow liquid collagen glues used by schoolchildren such as LePage's Glue. Shampoos and soaps remove the glue-polypeptides and loosen the cuticle. High quality conditioners add small peptides back into the cuticle to glue it into place again. A small amount of pantothenic acid (vitamin B-5) is also used which helps with the glue process. If the cuticle stays open it can start a tear (see second photo at the left) in the hair shaft that ultimately leads to breakage of the hair shaft (see third photo at the left). High quality conditioners also help glue together split hair ends. The longer you leave the conditioner on the hair, the better it smoothes out the hair cuticle. Some manufacturers say only to condition for a few seconds, but longer is better.


Many conditioners today contain botanicals and herbal extracts such as extracts of juniper berries and buckhorn leaves and so forth. These herbal extracts interfere with the glue process and reduce the protective effects of the hair conditioners. Combs with unpolished teeth, sharp hair clamps and tight elastic bands can also disrupt the hair scales and produce damage. With such a damage, the strand will rip more easily, the opened scales do not allow other strands to glide over as smooth as before, which can result in tangles.

Conditioners should be at a low pH of 4.0 to 4.5. The hair proteins remain very strong at a low pH and shampoos - with their higher pH - should be completely rinsed out of hair. Higher pH's start unraveling the protein strands and loosen and break the hair. A small amount of fat is added to give the hair a better shine.

Hot oil treatment conditioners are the latest marketing ploy from the cosmetic companies. The idea dates back to the 1950's when hot oil treatments were first marketed by Alberto Culver. The basic idea is that the application of heat drives the conditioners - oils, peptides, etc. - deeper into the hair shaft and the hair looks better for a short time. However, the high heat - about 250 degree F. from a hot air dryer - will ultimately damage the hair follicles - which cannot take heat much about 120 degrees F. - and the follicles will produce less hair and thinner hair. <font color="blue"> Spagirl note: Scalp/hair follicles temps hmmmm.

Something possibly to consider. </font>

This info and more can be found at folligen.com/relaxers.html

 

[Cinnabuns]

Adding to my favorites. Spagirl you rock!

 

[oglorious1]

Great tips, bumpity, bump, bump

 

[VelvetRain]

Spagirl something is wrong with the links.

 

[AtlantaJJ]

Bumpin this for US Newbies

Good stuff in here. I'm looking for the smooth edges trick. I know there is one... dog gone it!

 

[SpiritJunkie]

wow! this was a very good thread. gotta print and read carefully later