Re: hairTips- Relaxed hair tips
Here are some hair tips for relaxed hair from Ourhair.net.
Relaxed Hair Tips
The structure and chemical make-up of highly textured hair is unique, resulting in special conditioning and styling needs. In particular, highly textured hair has fewer cuticle layers, making it somewhat less dense than other hair types. If not properly cared for, it will be prone to dryness and breakage. Add regular styling, relaxers, colors or other chemical processes and it quickly becomes damaged, unmanageable, and loses it natural shine.
Types of Relaxers
Sodium hydroxide alkali relaxers are thick creams containing 1.5-2.5% active and have a very high ph range of 12-14. Because of their aggressive nature, these relaxers require scalp protectors, such as petrolatum, to protect the skin and hairline. The relaxer is followed by a neutralization process, which oxidizes and restores the hair's ph because high ph can cause the hair to swell and break.
Guanidine hydroxide relaxers tend to be less damaging than sodium hydroxide relaxers. These products, however, still damage the hair and de-fat the scalp and therefore require conditioning treatments before and after. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are formed in situ by mixing calcium hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate "activator" solution.
Thioglycolates work on the same formulation principles as thioglycolate permanent waves. With a ph of 9-9.5, these are also considered to be less damaging, yet still require a neutralization step. Thioglycolate relaxers are usually in cream or gel form and can be preceded by a pre-softener.
Choosing Your Stylist
How do you find reputable stylist to relax your hair? I have found that the easiest thing to do is to ask the sister with the head of hair you have been admiring. If her hair looks healthy and feels good (ask before touching) then she probably has a good stylist. Word of mouth is golden. However, if you see relaxed head that looks "jacked up", meaning, thinning or nonexistent hairline, broken, short (not from a hair cut) with relaxer burns on the scalp ask who she goes to so that you know who to avoid. A reputable salon will allow you to sit in on a session with one of their clients or give you a consultation BEFORE beginning work on your hair.
To prepare yourself before your salon visit, keep these things in mind about your stylist:
Before beginning any chemical process, they should check scalp for any abrasions. The lye and other chemicals used in relaxers could be dangerous to your body if leeched through open skin.
The stylist should check the condition of your hair and refuse to do the relaxer if the hair is damaged or weak.
Your stylist should ALWAYS do a STRAND TEST and an allergic reaction test. Many things can alter your hair texture, such as certain medications as well as the age which can alter your relaxer results. These tests should be done before each relaxing treatment even if you have used the same relaxer brand and stylist before.
Not all relaxers are the same. Some are stronger and some are milder. The right type of relaxer should be chosen for your hair type (prior relaxed, virgin, colored, fine, etc.)
You should be draped with a towel, or cape to protect the skin and clothing
Your scalp (and previously relaxed hair) should be protected with a petroleum jelly or thick conditioner.
Your hair should be parted in sections and the stylist should work quickly to avoid burning and over processing.
Your stylist should use a back of a comb or a wooden spatula for application and smoothing of the relaxer.
On virgin hair, the relaxer should be applied to the ends last as they are the oldest part of the hair.
Retouches should be done only on the hair's new growth.
Your stylist should use a timer (preferably with a bell) and only leave the relaxer on for the time as set by your strand test but never longer than the recommended time on the relaxer instructions. It is always better to slightly under process than over. Hair should be checked continuously.
After processing the hair it should be very well rinsed for at least 15 minutes with warm water.
Your hair should be shampooed with a neutralizing shampoo not just regular shampoo. A neutralizing shampoo stops the lye's reaction with your hair and helps the hair to set in it's new straight shape. Some stylists will use regular shampoo to save money, but at your hair's expense. Watch them as they work.
Your hair should be rinsed very well again to remove all traces of the relaxer from your hair.
Before drying your hair, your hair should be deep conditioned to add moisture and help restore it's elasticity.
Your hair should be handled gently as it is dried and styled. if at all possible, the stylist should use a low heat setting to avoid frying the hair.
You should be taught how to care for your relaxed hair and they should suggest products for you to use. Also, they should inform you of what to do should you see breakage, thinning or hairline loss.
Relaxer Do's and Don'ts
While many women relax their hair at home, you'll get the best results by consulting a stylist who is professionally licensed and has experience doing relaxers. Before you get your hair relaxed, make sure the stylist understands the needs of your specific hair type and length. Incorrect use includes application of these products too frequently, and leaving the solutions on the hair or scalp too long. Getting a good relaxer is only one part of the process. Follow-up care is essential to make sure that your weakened hair shafts do not become irrevocably damaged, resulting in hair breakage and loss.
Relaxed hair should be handled with extreme care and gentleness. Extreme heat, bending (as with curlers) and blow-drying should be avoided. Never blow-dry the hair while it is dripping wet. Unless a professional is using them, you risk drying out and breaking your hair.
Hair should not be relaxed bone straight or two within an inch of it's life. That is a sure fire way of ending up with NO hair.
Wash your hair at least twice a week. Water adds moisture. Moisture assures vitality and helps to maintain your hair's strength.
When you get a touchup, either your stylist or you should apply a pre-conditioner onto the already processed hair. It will help to prevent over processing which can aggravate dryness and lead to breakage. Use the mildest product available. Bone straight relaxed hair will mean no body, hard to curl hair that will get thinner and thinner over time.
Be sure to apply the relaxer at least one-eighth of an inch from the scalp down to the ends of the hair or during a touchup where the new growth meets the relaxed hair. Avoid overlapping! Some relaxers are activated by heat, so the hair closest to your scalp will straighten the fastest.
The use of conditioners and moisturizing pomades are advised. Because the natural protection against moisture loss is removed when you relax your hair, you need to add moisture and use protects that help to hold moisture in so that the hair remains flexible and less likely to break.
If you find that your hair is already damaged for misuse of relaxers or styling appliances, the only true route is to trim it. Hanging on to it for the sake of added length is not a good idea and can actually contribute to added breakage.
Have your hair trimmed regularly. Ideally, you should have your hair trimmed each time you get a relaxer. Your ends are the most fragile part of your hair and a regular trim helps to maintain the look and health of your hair.
Although many products property to "mend damaged hair", once a hair shaft has been shredded and torn, nothing save a pair of scissors is going to get rid of the damage. Your hair will look better and you will feel better about it.
At night, re-moisturize your hair ends with a cream hair dress. Style your hair into a protective style, like braids or a tucked bun and wear a scarf or sleep on a satin pillowcase. This will aid in reducing hair breakage, maintaining moisture balance and protecting your hairstyle.
When you condition your hair, you should always use a "leave-in" conditioner for at least five to ten minutes. At least once a month, you should do deep conditioning treatments. Some of women do it every time they wash their hair.
Opinion varies on touch up frequency. Some experts feel that touch-ups of relaxer should be every two-to-three months faithfully. Still others advocate touching up only once or twice a year. The length of time between touchups will vary based on hair texture, hair length and hair health. If the hair is only mildly relaxed, you can touch up less frequently than someone who opted for a bone straight look. Consult with your stylist to find out how often you should touch up.
Unless you are having a virgin application (first time relaxing) of a relaxer done, never have relaxer cream to the ends of your hair. You will fry your hair, damage it beyond repair, or break it off completely.
If you must color your hair, only use semi-permanent hair color. All permanent hair color contains some level of peroxide that can damage your hair.