To keep this valuable info from forever being lost here are parts of a few tip from
Treasuredlocks. com (thanks SillyGurl).
African American Hair Structure
What's different about our hair? Why do we need different products and routines? African hair is made of the same “stuff” as non-African hair. The difference lies in the way those components are put together or the structure of our hair. The structure of our hair can cause it to be more prone to breakage and dryness. Because of this, black hair care needs are is different from those for other types of hair. Our hair can have up to twice the amount of “cuticle” or outer layer. Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair. But, keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types. Especially since most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial people's hair can vary widely. Even within a single head of hair, there are different hair types. So, there is no one solution for the care of all African American hair. However, it is helpful to know, generally, what type of hair you have.....Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian hair and can handle more stress or abuse. After all, it is coarser and thicker. Actually, African hair (especially if treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair. For this reason, we suggest using products made especially for our hair, whenever possible. Today, there is a wide range of excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American or Textured hair.
The parts that make up your hair are:
Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle. This is a thin and colorless layer. Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice the thickness of that of white hair.
Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells which are tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals. As a result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and relaxers.
Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the hair or skin.
Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.
Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff. Thus, the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.
How does a relaxer work?
Time for a really quick science lesson (keep reading, it will be really quick and painless, I promise). There is a scale called a pH scale. It ranges from 0-14. Water is right in the middle with a pH of 7 and is "neutral" (neither acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH are called alkali, caustic or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called acidic. The farther from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the solution will do in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale. What that means is a whole number difference is greater than you might think. A solution that is pH 8 is ten times more basic than a solution that is ph 7. One that is a pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH7. That's as far as we need to go for our purposes. End of lesson. Relaxers, whether lye or no lye, have a very high pH (very near the top of the scale). In other words, they are caustic.
Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid Plumr® that you'd buy to remove hair from your sink or drain. Relaxers break the hair down. Relaxers work because they break the bonds that actually give strength to the hair. This causes the hair to straighten. Therefore, relaxed hair is, by definition, weaker than natural hair. Relaxers also deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp secretes). Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a problem. That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when putting in relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.
Does this mean we are against relaxers? Absolutely not. If a quality relaxer is applied properly and the hair is maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy. However, your hair will be weaker than if it were natural and will be more prone to problems. These problems are not insurmountable as long as you are aware of how to take care of your hair.
What are the hair care basics?
You should picture your hair as a collection of fine fibers. You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse. The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair. If you relax your hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also points where the hair tends to break. The more of these points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage. Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.
Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf (we sell a mesh one specifically for this) before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair. We have a fairly large selection of things to wear while you're sleeping. Sleep caps
Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your your head or with a satin pillow case. This helps avoid split ends caused by the rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.
Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a half. More than that can dry it out.
Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.
Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good natural oil like shea butter. A daily moisturizer is not a bad idea.
Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.
Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote circulation and oil production.
Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum. They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed. If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.
If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair even if you don't wash it. Condition it afterwards with a daily leave-in conditioner.
Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair.
Put as little heat as possible on your hair. Heat, especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.
Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're waiting for your locks to lock).
Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and get plenty- inside and out. If you used to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this. Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea. Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.
Eat a proper diet. Vitamins and protein are essential for proper hair growth.
Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be.
Do not relax your hair until it is bone straight. This is just asking for trouble. Why relax your hair until it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get that curl back?
Some tools you should have in your kit:
A good shampoo: They will be more expensive. But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated. You may find they save you money in the long run. And, your hair will definitely show the difference. We offer several.
A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles. ebene Naturals' Conditioning Herbal Vinegar Rinse is perfect for this purpose.
A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner: We highly recommend the Saniyyah...Naturally Lemongrass Hot Oil Treatment. It is an all natural based shea butter treatment. Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel. Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very important for for dry brittle hair.
A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer: This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to continue to provide oil and moisture.
A comb for your hair type. Don't try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly hair. You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.
A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)
A spray bottle to mist your hair
A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a satin pillow case (well, two)
Which oils should I use (and avoid)?
Oils, pomades, daily moisturizers, leave-in conditioner and creams will make the hair feel more soft and flexible. They are particularly important to be added to permed hair which has been stripped of some of its ability to oil itself. Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized or avoided. These products can tend to clog the pores, are not easily absorbed into the hair and attract dust. If you use products with these oils, try to use the ones that have the least amount. Generally, the further down the ingredient list, the less there will be in a product. So, try to use products where these are listed near the end.
Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil. We have a great selection of oils, pomades and moisturizers for every hair type and style.
Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the moisture already there. Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used on days when you don't wash or wet your hair. The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
How often should I wash my hair?
This will depend on your hair type and how prone your hair is to drying or becoming oily. As we said earlier, not all African Americans have the same type of hair. Generally speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing too often will worsen that. Rinsing your hair with plain water every day and washing once every week to ten days works for most of us. Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more often as it may tend to be more oily. BTW, when you dry your hair, do not rub it. Rubbing your hair can cause breakage. Blot it with a towel.
How do I handle permed hair?
First of all, make sure you have a good stylist. If you do apply your perm at home (which we do not encourage), be sure you follow the directions religiously. Make sure you apply touch ups only to new growth. Do not overlap the the perm on to the already permed hair. Follow the general directions for hair care above.
Now...
Dry your hair slowly and with as little heat as possible. I try to allow a couple of hours to wash my hair. I wash it and towel blot it. I apply a hair and scalp oil. Then, I walk around the house for a couple of hours and let it air dry as much as possible. Finally, I blow it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning and styling routine.
Wet your hair as much as possible (at least twice a week). Spritz it with water daily or rinse it in the shower every day or two.
Use a leave-in conditioner and/or moisturizing pomade. Again, this is especially important for relaxed hair as you've stripped the hair of some of its ability to oil itself and its protection against moisture loss.
Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis (whenever you have a perm applied). If your ends split, this split can travel along the hair shaft causing damage to the hair further up. Don't hang on to damaged hair for the sake of its length. If your hair has been damaged by a bad perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the healthy hair grow out to make up for it. Keeping the damaged hair around can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.
Touch up frequency will vary depending on your hair type and how fast it grows. I need to go pretty often. Two to three months is fairly normal.
How do I handle natural hair?
If you have super curly, kinky or (dare we say it?) nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet. You may find it easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower. Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made for your hair. Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the comb will tend to catch and break the hair. If you need to comb your hair while it's dry, be gentle. Try to spritz with some water or a cream first. You can use an unbraid product like Black Earth's Protective Mist Bodifier or Better Braids Unbraid. If you're unbraiding your hair and get to some tangles, pull them loose with your fingers before you go on combing. Other than this, follow the basic guidelines above.
How do I transition from relaxed to natural hair?
This one is a very frequently asked question. We get calls and e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what they want to hear. The true answer is there is no really quick or easy way. To reiterate (in case you haven't read the other questions). A relaxer is permanent. It cannot be removed. There are no products that will remove a relaxer (other than scissors). If you want to just grow your hair out to a natural state, be prepared for breakage. Baka Beautiful's Natural-Laxer is a great product if you want to maintain your length while transitioning. We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage. But, the Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it. There are three good ways to transition:
Cut off the relaxed hair- depending on how much new growth and your preferences you have a few styling options. You can wear a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists pretty easily with almost any length hair. For other styling ideas, Ourhair.net or Hairweb.com
Braids and/or extensions- you can have your hair braided until it grows to a length where you feel comfortable cutting off the new growth and going with other styling options
SisterlocksTM- SisterLocks can be started with one and one half inches of new growth at the scalp. They are similar to dread locks but with a look more like micro braids or very small twists. They leave you with many styling options. For more information (including pictures) go to sisterlocks.com
Find a transition style- This great tip was given to us by one of our customers. "I just wanted to send you another hair styling option for those who don't know what to do while growing out a perm and going natural. I recently did this and when my roots began growing out, I would wet my hair and add oil to it, then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's Crinkles & Curls Styling Lotion would be perfect for this). After it dried, my hair was left wavy and with lots of texture and this helped to blend the natural roots with the permed ends. It is important to keep your ends clipped regularly during this process so that your split ends do not continue up the hair shaft and damage the natural hair. I was able to wear my hair like this until I was comfortable with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my 'fro.".....