Curly hair research to eradicate product junkyism

[larry3344]

Thought it was a good video and like the fact that they are expanding on curly hair research.

 

[Lylddlebit]

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This is a good study but it won’t change my hair habit. Hair products are like clothes and shoes to me. I have items from high school that still look good and I wear regularly because they are made well (quality material in clothes paralleled to quality ingredients in products). However, I have a bunch of new stuff that I have tried in the years since then and added to the collection. Similar to clothes and shoes, I can go to hair products that will work well on my hair with little margin of disappointment. In my case, have been finding and using what works for decades in the hair and skincare realm. I just add on what works and keep it in rotation. My product junkism isn’t the result of trying to figure out what works. It is enjoying many the wonderful options that get released. The good thing about my habit though is that when straight garbage is the trend, I can chill for years on end then go back to buying when what I like starts getting released as quality again. Haircare, shoes, clothes, whatever. Learn what your hair likes and you will rarely waste money on incompatible products. Keeping your body right and dressing to your figure instead of trends will build an awesome wardrobe that looks good across decades.

I think their study will help people learn their hair. So it will be good.

 

[faithVA]

For people like myself who bought a lot of products to solve an issue, research will eliminate their "product junkyism". I dont want a lot of stuff and I dont have any desire to try a lot if new things.

But for people who like to buy and try, nah, it wont change a thing.

 

[Lylddlebit]

I also think that when hair changes, a system of better identifying impact is useful. So, overall, good to study.

 

[DVAntDany]

That was an enticing introduction to their study, but where do I go to find out more about it? Also, when will they be publishing their findings? I’m curious if the product suggestions for this new hair typing system are for hair health only (stop damage and grow long) or also includes hair styling.

Right now, I can practically pick up any gel suggested for kinky curly or Coily hair, and it work as expected. I mainly have problems when companies like Kerastase or Living Proof market to Coily hair and provide a product that doesn’t provide enough hold or weight except for the silkies or ultra fine haired people. It comes down to them trying to hit both the twistout girl and the wash n go girl with one stone. We are not the same the people.

Most wavy and curly women either wear their hair in its natural hair texture or straighten it before adding artificial curls. Women with tight curls and coils wear wash n goes, braid/twist outs, comb coils, and rod sets outside of wearing their hair straight or in braids/twists. Each of these styles could benefit from using a different product.

So if the study’s results are not going to have my hair looking beautiful, I’m not sure how impactful it will be. Will it be as easy as turning the bottle to the back and looking at ingredients? Will they provide a database listing exact product suggestions. How do we determine what hair type we have in the first place? Is my hair being examined under a microscope or can I do it myself? I have so many questions.

 

[larry3344]

Good point @DVAntDany there are many curly and coily hair companies on the market now thanks to the natural hair movement. But still most cater to soft textured hair and not kinky/coarser textured hair (although they claim otherwise). My hope with the study is they are studying coily /curly hair at its molecular level and seeing how the hair strands are structured to then advise hair companies on what ingredients will answer the needs of its coily/curly market which has a lot more variability than just curl size. I made a thread on here a few years ago on how the issue with kinky Afro textured hair isn’t growth but retention. Women with kinkier Afro textured hair have the biggest issue with length and moisture retention.

But the way that hair care industry is setup for Afro haired women it assumes that if your hair is curly or coiled that all your hair needs are the same. Even within the same coil or curl category strand textures will differ extensively.

Some women have silkier type 4 hair, some kinkier, others in between, etc…many hair companies aren’t really focusing on these nuances and just slap curl type categories. The latter needs more research and of course money and focuses on solving problems rather than just selling hope in a bottle.

I detest how natural hair companies have devolved into pushing soft textured hair women (includes type 4) as Afro hair representatives for all while once again ignoring kinkier textured hair because it doesn’t shine nor have the jaw dropping silkpress reveal porn that we see all over IG and YT.

The only time kinky hair is showcased is if it is really long (as most people don’t expect kinky coily hair to reach long length).

I want to see someone answer the needs of women with kinky hair rather than have them hopeful that they too can have shiny drop down curls or coils.

 

[DVAntDany]

Good point @DVAntDany there are many curly and coily hair companies on the market now thanks to the natural hair movement. But still most cater to soft textured hair and not kinky/coarser textured hair (although they claim otherwise). My hope with the study is they are studying coily /curly hair at its molecular level and seeing how the hair strands are structured to then advise hair companies on what ingredients will answer the needs of its coily/curly market which has a lot more variability than just curl size. I made a thread on here a few years ago on how the issue with kinky Afro textured hair isn’t growth but retention. Women with kinkier Afro textured hair have the biggest issue with length and moisture retention.

But the way that hair care industry is setup for Afro haired women it assumes that if your hair is curly or coiled that all your hair needs are the same. Even within the same coil or curl category strand textures will differ extensively.

Some women have silkier type 4 hair, some kinkier, others in between, etc…many hair companies aren’t really focusing on these nuances and just slap curl type categories. The latter needs more research and of course money and focuses on solving problems rather than just selling hope in a bottle.

I detest how natural hair companies have devolved into pushing soft textured hair women (includes type 4) as Afro hair representatives for all while once again ignoring kinkier textured hair because it doesn’t shine nor have the jaw dropping silkpress reveal porn that we see all over IG and YT.

The only time kinky hair is showcased is if it is really long (as most people don’t expect kinky coily hair to reach long length).

I want to see someone answer the needs of women with kinky hair rather than have them hopeful that they too can have shiny drop down curls or coils.

That makes way more sense if they let the companies use this information to make products that are truly tailored towards the vast varieties of hairs out there. However, that didn’t seem to be the goal from the perspective of the interview. I understand and applaud them for wanting to give women (especially Black) power back over our hair by making better informed choices. I guess this is a two step process. We need better choices first.

I mean hair care companies are giving us what we ask for and yet are dictating what we want also especially with style. I've been seeing low sheen afro hair, but its undefined after they do the styling. I'm not sure what I'm suppose to do with these type of products based on the companies' models. Are these half hearted attempts to give us the afro textured hair representatives we say we want? Or is this truly the best look they think and we can achieve? I would say that the use of these products on these model hair types are fails, but that is only when it comes to my hair perspective. There are people out their who think this looks great and want to wear it like that too.

Examples




https://www.instagram.com/reel/CofR9x-JqYq/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Then you have the looser or silkier textured curls that can be styled more slick and flat, but want the volume and puffiness. It gives afro, but it doesn't have to be afro. Tabitha Brown comes to mind when I think of this. We all known there are some textures when worn in a wng will only look like an afro no matter how its manipulated. These aren't the ones though.

Examples


https://www.instagram.com/brunopratess/
This is a Brazilian hair stylist. Many of his clients have a silkier surface texture that can be seen during the wet styling and some times dry. He manipulates the hair to get it bigger and puffier.


I wouldn't consider her hair kinky curly, but you can see how that bigger and fluffier look is achieved on hair that could easily be styled flat.

After saying all of this, I'm starting to think this study is not going to be centered around the aesthetic look of styling at all. Not only is hair styling too varied in desires, but the nuances in strand sizes and surface textures are going to be really hard to pin point. I have a plethora of different textures on my one head and each section works very differently. Is the best we can hope for are products that will help us achieve longer lengths with out all the breakage? That's a good start, and I can live with that. I think they should also couple that with the best hair care practices for each specific hair types.

 

[larry3344]

@DVAntDany i found this stylist, she specializes in silk press but I like she showcases a lot of naturals with low sheen/not silky hair and her silkpress are lovely across the textures. I think the issue is method and techniques that haven’t been developed yet to give kinkier hair textures more desirable results. Also skill many stylist who claim to do hair can only achieve results with silky hair that shines without product. It takes real skill to achieve the same with kinkier low luster hair.

 

[larry3344]

Also want to add is that we haven’t determined the barometer of what healthy non-silky Afro hair looks like. Often the characteristics of healthy hair is often associated with silkier hair textures:

1. High shine/sheen
2. Super define coil or curl
3. Hair that slicks easily with product/water

The only thing that I can find that applies to all textures is maybe the elasticity of hair strands. How quickly your coils/curls snap back after being stretched. Even then, there are some hair textures that have a more blow dry quality to them. The sheer variety of Afro textured makes categorization more complex than what the Andre Walker system offered.

Then you have to add strand thickness, hair density, kink level, curl/coil size.

 

[Lylddlebit]

Also want to add is that we haven’t determined the barometer of what healthy non-silky Afro hair looks like. Often the characteristics of healthy hair is often associated with silkier hair textures:

1. High shine/sheen
2. Super define coil or curl
3. Hair that slicks easily with product/water

The only thing that I can find that applies to all textures is maybe the elasticity of hair strands. How quickly your coils/curls snap back after being stretched. Even then, there are some hair textures that have a more blow dry quality to them. The sheer variety of Afro textured makes categorization more complex than what the Andre Walker system offered.

Then you have to add strand thickness, hair density, kink level, curl/coil size.

1. Hair that isn't breaking off when styling
2. Hair that has tensile strength
3. Hair that has elasticity
4. Hair able to retain moisture

Performance tells it better than presentation. It can be discouraging at times, but ignore the false narratives as you focus on learning your hair's strengths

 

[Lylddlebit]

@DVAntDany your hair reminds me of this youtuber.


Not exactly the same, but similar since she stated short and grew out like you are doing. Her channel is dedicated to WnGs

 

[DVAntDany]

@larry3344 You are right. There is no definitive idea of what that looks like.
@Lylddlebit That makes the most sense for determining it.

 

[DVAntDany]

@DVAntDany your hair reminds me of this youtuber.


Not exactly the same, but similar since she stated short and grew out like you are doing. Her channel is dedicated to WnGs

LOL I’m subscribed to her. Our hair looks very similar especially in density and how it hangs. We don’t have lift at the crown at all and that just may not be possible. However, I think her hair is way more cooperative with products than mine. I do see that we have similar wants in results.