vivadiva85 said:Great! I learned another hair lesson.
Too bad this cooler water wont really work in the shower. I can't take a lukewarm shower, so I know cool is out of the question.
CAPlush said:After I am already wet with warm water, turning the temp down a bit is not as shocking
MissMadaam said:from reading ive learned its best to wash with warm water then rinse conditioner off with cool water to close the cuticles back down
CO only wash in luke water for the last final rinse use cold water
http://thenaturalhaven.blogspot.com/2009/07/part-2-of-2-porosity-can-you-fix-it.htmlPart 2 of 2: Porosity - Can you fix it?
See part 1 of 2: Porosity- Definitions and Causes
Now that we know how porosity occurs I can now take on your burning questions
Q: Can all porosity be fixed
No, when the cuticle sustains damage, this simply cannot be fixed. The cuticle does naturally thin down as hair length increases due to normal weathering (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists pg155-175, 1977). Broken, chipped or missing cuticles and cracks in the hair cannot be permanently fixed. Using hydrolysed protein can temporarily improve the hair but ultimately this is temporary.
Q: Can you open and close the cuticles of the hair?
This is NOT (I repeat NOT) the way the hair cuticle works. It does seem to imply that the cuticle is hinged like a door and can be raised without damage and then ‘closed’ back down. However this is not how it works.
The cuticle can be raised slightly (it takes very sensitive instruments to detect this – the distance can be as little as one millionth of a meter). Running your fingers down a strand to feel for a raised cuticle is simply not possible unless you have severely damaged hair.
Q: Can you stop the cuticle from being raised?
Not really because you have to wet your hair and handle it on occasion. You can however take steps to keep it to a minimum
1. Coconut oil as a pre-wash treatment to prevent the hair shaft from swelling. This in turn may help the cuticle from being raised (search this blog for coconut oil posts)
2. Using a conditioning shampoo. This in research terms means the dreaded term silicones which although loathed by many curly heads really actually are good for minimizing protein loss from hair (meaning chipping/breaking cuticles) (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, pg 39-52, 1995). If you are anti-silicone, pick a conditioning shampoo (key word conditioning)
3. Hair conditioner use after shampooing has been shown to restore the hair fibre appearance (meaning smooth down the cuticle after shampooing) (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, pg 347-371,1993). It also helps with combing and reducing damage to the cuticle during this process (see this post)
Q: Does apple cider vinegar help to ‘close’ the cuticle?
There is no evidence to support that pH (i.e low pH of ACV) can affect the hair cuticle in this way. High pH (9 and over) found during relaxing can raise the cuticle and even destroy the hair completely (J Invest Dermatol 105: 96-99, 1995). This study did also show that hair did not show any real change, meaning the cuticle was not raised or smoothened by exposure to a large range of pH values (about pH 4 to 8).
Q: Does cold water help to ‘close’ the cuticle?
Again there is no evidence to indicate this happens. Heat, even low heat with a blow dryer (70 degrees Celsius for 30 seconds) does raise the cuticle. You can see it for yourself in this paper which has a rather excellent image –see figure 4.
There is no evidence that I could find that running cool/cold water over the hair impacts the cuticle in any way.
(Source)pH and hair
The key to the perming process lies in the fact that perming solution is alkaline. What exactly does this mean in relation to hair?
When scientists talk to each other about alkaline solutions and acid solutions, they need a way of measuring alkalinity and acidity. The scale they use for their measurements is called the pH scale.
The pH scale ranges from pH 1 to pH 14. All you need to remember is that acids have pH numbers less than 7. Alkalis have pH numbers greater than 7. The more acid the solution, the lower is the pH number; the more alkaline the solution, the greater the pH number.
pH is measured using special indicator papers which change color when the pH changes.
Hair responds to changes in pH. If a hair is placed in an alkaline solution it swells, and the scales of the cuticle lift. In a slightly acid solution, the scales lie smoothly and the hair is soft. In a strongly acid or alkaline solution, however, the keratin protein starts to break down.
(Source)pH || Protein Weights
An understanding of hair products chemistry will greatly enhance your credibility with your clients as well as make your finished style picture perfect. We welcome any input you make offer to make this site the top professional site in the world.
pH's (see H-Bonds)
Let's start with pH. Firstly, dry hair has no pH. Only aqueous solutions have pH's. When hair is in an aqueous solution it normally has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 the skin does too. One of the most beneficial treatments hair can have is to be acidified. pH's of 3.0 to 3.5 will not only close the cuticle but more importantly compact it. This:
1) Adds natural shine - (light reflects off a smooth surface)
2) Detangles - Cuticle layer can not "grab" each other.
3) Adds elasticity - The lower the pH, it higher the positive charge. This in turn brings hydrogen bonds from a beta state (weak) to and alpha state (strong). Hydrogen bonds account for nearly 100% of the hair's elasticity.
4) Locks in moisture and protein - A compacted cuticle will not allow evaporation or dissociation as much as an open cuticle.
Contrary to belief, most shampoos has a pH lower than 7.0 (neutral). The key is to bring the pH down much lower. pH's lower than 3.0 can have adverse effects during prolonged use. Example) lemon juice has a pH of ~2.5.
SourceWhat is the pH scale? This is the basis that helps determine how acidic or basic a chemical solution is. If the pH is measured at 7, such as in distilled water, you can expect it to be neutral. If it goes above 7, like for bleaches and detergents, it is considered basic or alkaline. If the pH is measured below 7, like for vinegar and lemon juice, it is now acidic.
Normally, most areas of the body like the scalp, skin surface, and the stomach contains acidic substances. The pH on the hair and scalp, to be more specific, is about 5. as said before, pH affects the health of the hair, which is why the pH of products used on hair can also have significant effects on your tresses.
Speaking of hair care, the most common product people can’t do without is shampoo. This has a slightly acidic pH, but more close to neutral for gentle shampoos. Shampoo has to have a lower pH to be able to clear off the scum and excess oils on the scalp and hair. A neutral shampoo is often used for babies or people with sensitive scalp and hair, to prevent irritation. Conditioners are also acidic, so that they can cause the surface of hair strands to flatten out and be smooth instead of bristly like roof shingles, as how hair strand surfaces would normally look when you have a bad hair day.
(Source)[...]saturating hair samples with acid and alkaline products that have both high and low pH levels. After the products have been on the hair the desired amount of time, rinse the solutions. Observe the effects on the hair. Students will note the difference of hair structure when using a mild and strong acid or mild and strong alkaline. Students may feel the hair and conclude the effects of different pH on hair. If available, use a microscope to observe the state of the cuticle layer. A product that is alkaline will swell the cuticle layer of the hair, leaving it standing straight out and feeling rough. Whereas, an acid contracts or closes the cuticle leaving the hair feeling softer and looking shiner.
(Source)Part II: Treating Hair Samples in Solutions of Varying pH
This part of the lesson involves testing hair samples in solutions of different pH. Distribute a hair sample to each group (20 strands of the same type of hair; they will eventually divide the sample into 4 groups of 5 strands each) and have students complete the activity by following the procedure on the student sheet.
Note: The test is subtle but shows expected results if done correctly. Observations of hair in each pH sample should include:
* pH 2.0: hard; smooth; not resilient; breaks easily
* pH 6.0: not as hard; smooth; very resilient; resists breaking
* pH 10.0: rough; not very resilient; tends to break easily
* pH 12.0: very rough; not resilient; tends to break very easily
When all students are finished with the activity, discuss the questions they answered on their student sheets (refer to Effect of pH on Hair Resilience: Answer Key for the questions from the student worksheet with suggested responses).
I'm gonna break in a second to say... remember the other day we mentioned an alkaline shampoo is needed to clarify or remove buildup from scalp/hair? the hair cosmetology quote says "a Shampoo has to have a lower pH to be able to clear off the scum and excess oils on the scalp and hair."
wat-up-with-that?
(Source)[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+2]Many clarifying shampoos use alkaline ingredients to swell the hair shaft and allow the surfactants to penetrate more deeply. Most hair relaxers use a strong alkali to soften the hair, break the side bonds of the hair and remove curl. In addition, many conditioners and moisturizing shampoos use acidic compounds to contract the hair shaft, smoothing it and locking in moisture. [/SIZE][/SIZE]