Yes! It's Porous now Help Me Fix It!
Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability, or inability, to absorb water or chemicals deep into the cortex. Unfortunately, damage to the hair shaft can affect the hair's level of porosity. Too much porosity reduces the hair's ability to retain moisture, move well, and fight breakage. This article will help you understand why you should be concerned about your hair's porosity levels. It will also describe 4 simple ways that you can correct your hair's porosity issues.
Why Should You Correct Your Hair's Porosity?
In Part 1 of the Porosity Series, I explained that the more damage the cuticle has endured, the greater the hair's porosity will be. Moisture absorption and moisture loss are the primary concerns for porous hair.
Moisture Absorption and Loss
Though porous hair often feels dry and parched, it can absorb LOTS and LOTS of water. Normal hair can absorb roughly 30% of its weight in water when washed, while extremely porous hair can absorb up to 40-50% of its weight in water! Generally, the more porous your hair is, the more water or moisture it tends to absorb. Seems great, right? Not quite. There are two downsides to this high level of water absorption in hair with high porosity:
1.) High levels of moisture loss are also experienced over time. Highly porous hair absorbs more water when wet, but also loses even more as it dries. The moisture loss is a result of a shoddy cuticle layer barrier. Water flows in, and flows right on out just as easily. The cuticles are so lifted or damaged that they cannot adequately hold the moisture inside. This is why when porous hair is fully dried, it often feels swollen, puffy, and rough to the touch.
2.) .Hair lengthens as it absorbs water. The more water the hair absorbs, the more the hair will have to stretch to accommodate the water. Once the hair is stretched beyond its comfortable limit of roughly 30%, it grows weaker and weaker. If this process occurs too frequently, damage to the cuticle layer ensues, cortical damage follows, and then the hair eventually breaks under the stress. This is why it is also NOT advisable to keep the hair in a perpetual state of dampness. Moisture is beneficial to the hair, but too much moisture will damage and place stress on it.
Solutions for Correcting Your Porous Hair!
The issues of individual scale damage and raised cuticles are the primary issues associated with porous hair. If you can somehow patch the scale damage and close these cuticles layers, even a little, you will resolve a majority of your hair porosity issues.
Solution 1.) Protein Treatments for Porous Hair
The best , and perhaps easiest, way to patch up damaged cuticle layers is simply through light protein conditioning. Protein fills in gaps, binds to damaged places, and mends individual exterior scales along the cuticle. Regular protein conditioning improves the hair's porosity by reinforcing the cuticle layers and allowing the hair shaft to better hold on to the moisture it is given. You don't want to get too excited with the protein though because this can make the hair even drier. Products with wheat protein, like Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner, are good for shoring up the cuticle without leaving the hair too crunchy. Other more protein intensive treatments for correcting porous hair are Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor, CHI Keratin Mist, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Mayo Treatment, and Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioner. Remember, nothing can PERMANENTLY repair hair that is damaged, but treatments can go a long way for shoring up the weak spots and temporarily managing problems.
Solution 2.)Clear or Colored Rinses for Repairing Scale Damage and Porosity
Temporary clear or colored rinses also contain proteins that bind to and patch up the hair shaft. These rinses also give you the benefit of enhancing your current hair color, or adopting a temporary change. Clear rinses are best if you'd rather keep your current color and just add an enhanced element of shine. Sebastian's Colourshines and Jazzings all make great hair rinses that will help reduce your hair's porosity.
Solution 3.)Acidic Conditioners for Combating Overly Porous Hair
Some porosity problems can be temporarily resolved by applying a low pH solution or product, usually a conditioner. Most good deep conditioners are acidic products that will help restore and temporarily repair the cuticle layers. After treating the hair with a protein source listed in solution #1, your hair should be ready to receive and maintain the moisture you give it from your regular, weekly moisturizing deep conditioner.
When searching for a good acidic shampoo and conditioner brand for your porous hair, check the aisles for formulas for color treated hair. Typically, color treated products the most acidic. These products are extra gentle and help maintain the tightness of the cuticle layers in order to preserve hair colors and keep your vibrant shades from "leaching." Even if your hair is not color-treated, and you suspect that your hair may be porous, keep an eye out for products formulated for damaged or color treated hair.
Solution 4.)Acidic Rinses for Restoring Proper Cuticle Orientation
A weekly acidic rinse with Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is a common home remedy for treating porous hair. Simply combine 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar with 2 cups of cool water. Poor this mixture over the hair as a final rinse after shampooing and conditioning are complete. Rinse thoroughly in cool water. This acidic rinse will temporarily reduce porosity by constricting the cuticle scales. The ACV rinse will also enhance your hair's shine, eliminate tangles, and increase manageability.
ACV rinses should never make your hair feel hard. If the ACV rinse makes your hair feel hard or tangly after rinsing, your mixture needs to be diluted with more water.