I have compiled my Self-Relaxing Steps for those that may need a little help to started relaxing your own hair. I have done my own for 11 years (a stylist did it when my hair was virgin, and I did my own every time thereafter)!
***Note***
I am not a licensed cosmetologist, nor am I officially qualified to give instructions on how best to relax one's hair. The instructions listed below are the steps I've been using for years on my own hair, and they work for me!
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What You'll Need (feel free to substitute the relaxer for your personal favorite):
-Vitale Lye Relaxer (Regular)
-Vitale Postive Conditioner
-Vitale Neutralizing Conditioner
-Relaxer Applicator
-Vaseline
-Timer/Clock
-Your Favorite Shampoo/Conditioner
-Leave-in Conditioner
-(4)Hair clips
*Before starting, make sure your scalp hasn't been irritated (sores, scratching, washing, etc).
1) Apply Vaseline along entire hairline (front & back)
2) Section hair into 4 parts (2 front, 2 back)
3) Secure 3 sections with clips
4) Start either in the front or the back, depending on where you see the most new growth
5) If starting in back, make a part a couple of inches above nape area if this area is thinning or if hair is really fine like mine. You can also start at the top of the section near the center of your head if you have more new growth in that area
6) Take a comb and make a part with about a 1/2" or less of hair
7) With applicator brush (or fingers if wearing gloves), apply relaxer to new growth, avoiding scalp and relaxed hair, as not to overlap
8) Make another part and do the same thing.
9) Complete these steps until the entire section is done, then take down the other section in back and repeat steps #6-8. Remember, don't apply relaxer to nape unless your hair is really coarse here. This area will have had the relaxer on for the longest time so be careful!!
10) Once the two back sections are complete, do the same thing for the front two sections, saving the hairline for last (unless your hair is very coarse here). Leaving the relaxer on in this area for too long can lead to thinning edges and breakage so be careful!!! I like to start at the center of the head for all 4 sections because that's where my coarsest new growth appears
11) Once you have completed the last 2 sections, go back and add relaxer to the nape area, then the rest of the hairline in front
12) It is not necessary to smooth the hair if you don't want to, unless you have areas that are really coarse. You'll want to avoid overlapping as much as possible and smoothing can lead to this
13) The application of the relaxer should be very quick. Do this like you're in a race because you don't want to over or under-process. Just be sure to be cautious even though you're moving fast
14) Since the area you started will be ready to rinse out first due to longer processing time, you might want to secure the other two sections with clips for now
15) I do my rinse-outs either w/the kitchen sink, or standing over the tub only because my shower water pressure is too low, and it's easier to focus on certain sections of my hair. You'll want to have MAXIMUM water pressure to rinse out the relaxer because not rinsing well leads to breakage over time!!!
16) Rinse out the relaxer in the back very well. Make sure it is comepletley out. This is tough, but try not to let the water touch the two sections that are pinned up
17) Once the back is rinsed out, if you need to wait a couple more minutes before rinsing out the front, do so. Both sections need the entire 15 or 20 minute MAX processing time
18) Rinse the last two sections in the order in which the relaxer was applied
19) Once the hair is thoroghly rinsed, saturate hair w/Vital Positive Conditioner, cover w/plastic cap, and wait 5 minutes
20) After 5 minutes, remove the cap, and notice how silky your hair is
You may decide to detangle a bit here, but it's optional. Don't worry, if you're using the tub or sink, you won't have issues detangling later. Your hair will be left silky smooth after using this stuff.
21) Rinse all of conditioner out of hair
22) Next Shampoo w/Vitale Neutralizing shampoo, rinse, and repeat to make sure all of the relaxer is out. I generally walk around during the second shampoo just to be double sure it's all gone!
23) Next, use your favorite shampoo and conditioner as you normally would for the final washing.
24) You may also want to use a deep conditioner since you just performed a chemical service. I use LeKair Cholesterol conditioner w/a plastic cap but no heat for 45 minutes, then rinse.
25) After shampooing/conditioning, blot with towel (I never twist a towel around my head) for a few seconds
26) Now you're ready to comb out!!
27) Apply a leave-in conditioner
28) Gently comb out w/a wide-toothed comb. Remember- ALWAYS treat your hair like silk when you're combing, especially when wet and tangled. I part my hair down the middle, section off again, then comb each of the four section (like when applying the relaxer).
29) If you can, just let it air-dry. This is the best time to air-dry because your hair is straight. It's also the best time to trim/dust.
30) Now you're ready for those cute pin curls, or just pull back into a loose bun!!!
I hope the steps above will help you do your own relaxers. Here are a few final important points to remember:
-Try to stretch out your relaxer as long as possible. 3 months or more is great if you can handle it without excessive breakage/shedding
-Avoid putting relaxer directly onto the scalp
-It's okay to use your fingers to apply relaxer, just be sure to wear tight-fitting gloves or you will stain your fingers and nails
-Make sure you have enough relaxer for the whole head! I use 1/2 a jar each time. Vitale comes pre-mixed so you can save the rest till next time!
-NEVER run relaxer through the entire length of your hair! I'll be honest, I have done this to correct an underprocessed area once, and it was fine b/c I left it on for 5 minutes, but this is an absolute no no!! Doing it right when you relax everytime will alleviate underprocessed parts.
-All these product are found at Sally and most Beauty Supply Stores
-Be sure to set your timer or have a clock nearby
-Once each section of the relaxer is applied, you may want to look at the back w/a hand mirror to make sure you didn't miss any spots. You'll be an expert in no time!
-Be sure to rinse all of the relaxer out before you put on the Positive Conditioner
-Finally, have fun! I'm convinced that NO ONE will give your hair as much TLC as you will so become an expert
Good luck, and feel free to write if you have questions. let me know how it goes!!
SG