No Lye vs. Lye Debate..Give me your opinions

FashionistaNY

New Member
Okay, I'm a chemistry student in school, however, I'm still learning, but this is my hypothesis on the No Lye (CaOH-Calcium Hydroxide) vs. Lye (NaOH-Sodium Hydroxide) debate.

Chemically speaking, NaOH (Lye) is a stronger salt than CaOH (No-Lye) because it dissociates much more readily and completely in aqueous solutions. Lye relaxers have a pH of 10-14 and no-lye relaxers have a pH of 9.0-9.5, therefore deeming Lye Relaxers the stronger alkali agents.

Note* the pH scale is 1-14, 1 being most acidic and 14 being most basic. pH 7 is neutral.

Hair is slightly acidic, having a pH between 4.5-5.5. With this said, chemically speaking, NaOH relaxers have more "potential" of damaging.

The purpose of the relaxer is to apply an alkali substance which breaks down the disulfide bonds which hold hair together (disulfide bonds are the bonds linking the amino acids together into a protein---hair). Once the disulfide bonds are broken, the hair can be reshaped. When rinsing, we feel relief because the chemical has broken down into it's cation and anion components (Ca+ and OH- or NA+ and OH-) which dissolves in aqueous solutions).

Here is the reaction:
NaOH + H20 -----> Na+ + OH-
CaOH + H20 -----> Ca+ + OH-

This is why I take rinsing is an important process in relaxing.

The purpose of neutralizing is to bring the pH of the hair back to it's acidic state --reforming the disulfide bonds into it's new structure. This is why you have to make sure your hair is properly neutralized or the bonds will not reform completely or correctly --hence damaged hair.

With this said, as far as I know Ca+ ions can leave deposits. Maybe this is why people who relax with No-Lye experience dullness/dryness because the hair still contains some of the Ca+ ions that was not completely rinsed away (or can it attach to the hair??!?!?). However, I would think, chemically speaking, intense rinsing should correct this or a clarifying shampoo.

It does not make sense that hair absorbs Ca+ into the cortex because of the presence of water. If this was true we all would have no hair on our head because hair fibers would be absorbing the chemical and the chemical would continuously relax the hair.

With this said, do I believe the hype of Lye is better than No-Lye and vice versa. I really don't know.

What are your opinions? Feel free to critique and add.
 
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I BELIEVE LYE IS BETTER THAN NO-LYE...

Lye vs. No-lye


relative strength:
Lye: 3
No-lye: 1

alkaline active:
Lye: NaOH or KOH
No-lye: guanidine hydroxide or lithium hydroxide

chemical agent:
Lye: OH-
No-lye: OH-

pH:
Lye: 12.5 - 14
No-lye: 12.5 - 13.5

penetration and spreading:
Lye: faster
No-lye: slower

relaxer processing time:
Lye: shorter
No-lye: longer

irritation potential:
Lye: higher due to lower safety margin
No-lye: lower due to a higher safety margin

drying potential:
Lye: less drying to hair and scalp
No-lye: more drying to hair and scalp
 
Why do you think Lye is better. The only theory I can come up with Ca(OH)2 forms a precipitate (deposit), but that should be able to be washed away. So, I cannot totally understand how overall, No Lye could be more drying if the proper steps are taken to remove the precipitate. It's not as if it's embedded and bound there for life. I'm just soo skeptic these days lol

FYI - I've used both Lye and No Lye and had fantastic results with both, just wasn't a fan of Affirm.
 
FashionistaNY said:
Why do you think Lye is better. The only theory I can come up with Ca(OH)2 forms a precipitate (deposit), but that should be able to be washed away. So, I cannot totally understand how overall, No Lye could be more drying if the proper steps are taken to remove the precipitate. It's not as if it's embedded and bound there for life. I'm just soo skeptic these days lol

FYI - I've used both Lye and No Lye and had fantastic results with both, just wasn't a fan of Affirm.
...mainly because of the drying potential. I think it all depends on how you use each one (whether you use it the right way) to have an opinion on whether which one is better.
 
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