PREAMBLE:
I use to be a professional braider who is now an attorney. I am from west africa and learned to braid as a child-- don't even remember "learning" but have been doing my own hair for years and used this skill as a source of income during college and law school. I have 4b hair and for years would grow my hair to past shoulder length by keeping it braided for months at a time and then would relax and watch it slowly break off over time (didn't have this board 20 years ago!) and would go back into braids again, relax, watch it break and repeat the cycle until I found this board couple of years ago. I realize since that I was actually following the "crown and glory" method without knowing it by keeping my hair braided for months at a time, not too small, not too tight, and keeping braids clean and moisturized but would relax and totally destroy my long thick relaxed hair within months because I did't know how to care for my relaxed hair. I recently reached brastrap in the last two years, without braids, by using buns and good haircare tips and products taken from this most excellent forum.
WHEREAS:
I have decided to go for waist length using braids and braided by hair last week and intend to keep them in at least one solid year, without breaks.
THEREFORE:
1. use individual/single braids or cornrows that are not too small (micros are out for me)
2. re-braid entire head every 6 to 8 weeks -- I don't take "breaks" just take down, wash, and rebraid immediately without any problems
3. wash my braids every one to two weeks and rebraid the "perimeter" -- this is what Robin recommends -- that after washing braids, take time to redo the front, sides and nape so that braids look fresh and avoids "dreading" in these sensitive areas. I think those who experience hair loss at the hairline would do well to re-braid those areas every couple of weeks or so. I found that the center/crown areas of my hair can go the entire 6 to 8 weeks without re-braids or dreading up. Also, having individuals really helps here because easy to redo the hair all around the perimeter and the braids immediately looks freshly done and camoflages the looser hair in the middle, whereas, cornrows are harder to camaoflage. If you don't do your own braids, work out a deal with your braider to redo those areas for you every couple of weeks and pay her a much smaller fee. I did this for my clients -- would do a full head of individuals for say, $100 to $150 and then charge $15 to $20 or so to redo their perimeter. It works because would only take about an hour or so to redo (using new of same hair) and customer could actually maintain and keep braids longer that way.
4. I use cream of nature moisturizing 'poo. I put the 'poo on my DRY scalp, working and massaging scalp with the poo, avoiding the bradis, until entire scalp if fully massaged. I then get in shower and let the water pressure rinse poo from scalp, allowing poo to run down the lenght of braids, squeezing and smoothing the poo out gently in a downward motion to avoid "fuzzing" up the braids. There will always be a bit of "fuzz" after washing, no way to avoid. Once all the poo is rinsed out, I immediately towel dry by squeezing braids, again, working in a downward motion in direction of the braids. Then I spray on moisturizer (1/2 distilled water and 1/2 luster's right on curl activator), followed by oils of choice, right now I'm using couple of drops of castor mixed with couple of drops of ylang ylang (my hair smells HEAVENLY!) and do my best to smooth hair down with hands first, then wrap as tight as possble with a silk scarf. In about an hour, my hair is "flat" enough to go out and party if necessary. Usually, I just leave scarf on and go to bed and then redo my perimeter the next day or evening. Thus, I break up the time spent by washing and tying down on the first day and re-doing braids the next day. The redo usually takes me about and hour and a half in one sitting. Sometimes, I redo most of my hair at the office, yes, easy to close door and just undo one single braid and redo while sitting at desk, piece of cake, especially when sitting in on those looooong conference calls with instructions not to be disturbed . . .
5. I use synthetic hair -- human hair simply doesn't last long, slips out more easily because its so soft and is impossible to work with once washed because it tangles too much for me. I simply get better, more lovely, longer lasting results with synthetics because it has a good "hold" onto my hair and doesn't slide out, is easily washed and re-used, and maintians its "shape" in a way human hair does not. I use the "yaki hair" hair, which is curled at the ends so that I don't have to "finished" the ends of each braid, just braid to the lenght of my hair and let the rest hang in a lovely, natural curl (this "curled" look will survive numerous washings and can be re-used over and over again!). My favorite brand is "Twin Pony Braid" which is 100% toyokalon. I use a vinegar/ACV rinse that I spray onto the hair a few hours before using. I don't do the full Robin treatment which is complete immersion of the braids in ACV solution, but think the light spraying of ACV just before adding to my hair is probaly adequate to "acidify" the braids.
6. If using human hair, be prepared for a lot more hassles. Period. I know this from years of first hand experience putting them in for others. I have NEVER used human hair for briads on my own hair, it just ain't worth it, IMO. I'm not saying don't use, just be prepared that its harder to work with, especially if you don't do your own braids AND you want to keep them in a while.
7. If using micros, be pepared for a lot more damage when taking down. Period. Again, I know this from years of first hand experience putting them in for others. I have NEVER put micros in my own hair, it just ain't worth it, IMO. I'm not saying don't use it, just be prepared for more damage and spending more money cause it will cost more to put in and it's highly recommended that you pay a professional to take down to reduce damage.
8. I spray and oil my braids every other day or so and thats it. I have started doing something new this time around that I never thought to do before and that is, when I'm just hanging around at home, I put spray, oil and put on a plastic cap for as along as I can. I don't know the effects, but after years on this board, it's my version of the braids baggie method.
CONCLUSION:
I hope this helps and expands a bit on the crown and glory method. And I'm definitely in on the challenge. Waist length hair, be forthcoming, forthwith . . .