Correcting underprocessed hair... tips??

[Sweetyb]

I'm re-doing a relaxer job I did 2 mo.'s ago on my sis's 50% natural head. The first time I relaxed it (which was my first time relaxing hair period), her hair was underprocessed; when her hair dried, her hair was very coarse and dry at the back, and the majority of her curls came back . I believe it was the thick (Affirm) scalp base and the (Affirm) Protecto that I had slathered all over her hair. I don't think the relaxer penetrated. I also used the (Affirm) 5-n-1 Reconstructor; I have since purchased their Positive Link which is a thicker neutralizing conditioner.

Are there any tips or pointers you could give me in correcting her last relaxer job?

• I plan on taking a risk and lightly running a flat iron through her hair before I relax. I have reason to believe that her hair being in a coarse and unkempt state did not allow the relaxer to work as well (her hair today looks the same as it did b4 I ever relaxed it ). I had a really hard time separating her tangled hair.
• I'm going to get some sort of toothbrush, or something larger with soft bristles, to apply the relaxer.
• I plan to base her scalp a little lighter, and rub Olive oil over her hair instead of the Protecto.

[size=+1]Any tips, or critique, are welcome!![/size]​

 

[Nanyanika]

The protecto is only to be used on previously relaxed hair not virgin, that would probably explain why ther hair became underprocessed.

Here's how i corrected my textuzier.

you will need to time how long the relaxer must remain on newgrowth first and prevoiusly texturized hair, by perfoming strand tests, these are very easy to do.

this is how I do corrective!!!
please note i don't relax hair all at once as it is tricky and could cause overprocessing/underprocessed areas.

practise with applying the conditioner first to help speed up application tim and to professonalise smoothing technique.


* Part hair into 6-8 sections.
* Thinly part each section/base scalp area with castor oil using an applicator bottle with nozzle.
* Cover hairline, ears and nape areas with Vaseline to protect from burns.
* Add clips to each section/cover the ones not being processed with shower/plastic caps.
* secure shower caps with clips/slides
* place towel over my shoulders and put on latex gloves to prevent skin burns.
* Place ample amount of Affirm Mild Strength Lye relaxer into a plastic container.
* Set timer for processing time.
* Apply relaxer to newgrowth first one section at a time by taking small partings (apply crème downwards from the crown w/ tint brush.
* before the newgrowth is completely processed take the relaxer through to ends and smooth relaxer through.
* When timer is up, rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of relaxer.
* Apply a Affirm 5 in 1/positive link for 5 minutes only.
* Rinse out with warm water
* Shampoo at least twice with Affirm normalising poo.
* Towel blot hair and coat the texturized section with Affirm protecto/conditioner to protect hair before covering w/ a shower cap.
* move onto the next section for processing.
* When all sections are relaxed (neutralise again).
* Hair is conditioned with keracare humecto/Joico intensive moisturizer combo for 30-60 min.
* style hair

NOTE:
*For virgin relaxer do not apply protecto or cover hair with oils.
*Virgin relaxer/apply creme 1 inch away from scalp first, work your way up towards roots lastly. REASON: the natural body heat from scalp will process roots to quickly and could melt hair.
*I mention using shower caps, this helps to prevent water seeping through into other sections, even if you get a little water on the other sections it doesn't matter too much, i just towel blot dry and continue, without a problem.

 Performing Strand Tests
* Part hair in two sections/front half is mainly 4a, back is 3c.
* I comb each section to remove shedded hairs and them into two groups.
* Group 4a strands from (front sections) and Group 3c strands from (back section)
* Separate at least 10 strands from each hair group, to test on.
* Tape the hair to cardboard and label the area from which they came from and set/ timer.
* Put on latex gloves/apply Affirm Mild Strength Lye formula, using light strokes w/ my fingertips.
* When timing is up I Rinse the strands with warm water and
* Condition with affirm 5 in1/postive link conditioner.
* Neutralise with Affirm normalising shampoo.
* Air-dry the strands.
* Study curl pattern/ to see if it’s loose enough.
* If unsatisfied with the results repeat the process using virgin strands and follow same steps.

NOTE:
*You can either increase or decrease timing to get the correct result.
*Test the strands with and without smoothing.

HTHs

 

[MSee]

Please don't use the flat iron on her hair before relaxing, that could lead to damage.

 

[plainj]

Great instructions Den1!! Thanks.

 

[sky_blu]

Please don't use the flat iron on her hair before relaxing, that could lead to damage.

I was about to say the same thing. Your sister will be walking around with a baldie I repeat a baldie if you do that.

 

[beloved1]

Is there a hair stylist you guys trust, or a family member with a lot of relaxer knowledge? I think correctives are tricky, and I've been relaxing my own since I was 15 or so.

 

[Sweetyb]

Wow, thanks so much for all this advise! Den1, I'm gonna have to print yours out to read and make sure I get it down right. You gave me a lot of useful advice. I was trying to follow Affirm's instructions to the "T" and her hair came out all wrong; I also did not have any technique. The techniques that you mentioned are amazing. I would have never thought of separating the hair in 6 parts and applying the relaxer to thin layers. I was having a real hard time trying to beat the clock so I ended up slathering the relaxer in thick globs--please ladies, don't laugh at me!! I'm just tryina be honest. Now I know I can do her hair in 3 sets... oh lord I hope she can be patient with me.

Beloved1, we had a stylist we took her to, but I didn't agree with her slathering the relaxer over her whole head. I took her to someone new who is no longer available and was actually too expensive. Between not finding good people and being broke, I took it upon myself to learn to relax. With these tips, I should be a pro in no time .

I will also stay away from pressing her hair before the treatment :Blush2:.

[size="+1"]Q: How long should I wait after applying the relaxer to her already-processed hair? Immediately after, or do I wait a few minutes?
[/size]

 

[Nanyanika]

Hi Sweetyb, its best to practice with a thick conditioner on your friends hair first to ensure timing guides. it is vital to perform the strand tests so you can get the correct results, this willl also determine how long to leave it on the hair, also as a safety precaution i wouldn't leave a corrctive relaxer on the head for no longer than five minutes, as the hair has been previously processed, is dryer and more prone to damage. You don't have to use 6 parts you could opt for four sections but just make sure you practice first, you will be fine...Good-luck!!!!!!

Wow, thanks so much for all this advise! Den1, I'm gonna have to print yours out to read and make sure I get it down right. You gave me a lot of useful advice. I was trying to follow Affirm's instructions to the "T" and her hair came out all wrong; I also did not have any technique. The techniques that you mentioned are amazing. I would have never thought of separating the hair in 6 parts and applying the relaxer to thin layers. I was having a real hard time trying to beat the clock so I ended up slathering the relaxer in thick globs--please ladies, don't laugh at me!! I'm just tryina be honest. Now I know I can do her hair in 3 sets... oh lord I hope she can be patient with me.

Beloved1, we had a stylist we took her to, but I didn't agree with her slathering the relaxer over her whole head. I took her to someone new who is no longer available and was actually too expensive. Between not finding good people and being broke, I took it upon myself to learn to relax. With these tips, I should be a pro in no time .

I will also stay away from pressing her hair before the treatment :Blush2:.

[size="+1"]Q: How long should I wait after applying the relaxer to her already-processed hair? Immediately after, or do I wait a few minutes?
[/size]