Wanakee's practical guide to haircare, this is a keeper!

Lucia

Well-Known Member
Since I listened to Wanakee Pugh web interview on black hair talk I thought I'd look her up and here's what I found CLICK, PASTE, SAVE -Enjoy

Interview
http://blog.blackhairtalklive.net/

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Wanakee's Practical Guide to Haircare 18:46Edit Delete
source: http://web.archive.org/web/20001026131053/wanakee.com/practica.htm

INTRODUCTION
If your hair has been damaged, take heart. Your hair is growing while you’re reading this. It was growing yesterday while you were having dinner, and it will be growing during your coffee break. If you’ve ever had a relaxer or hair color in your hair you know how fast it grows; seems like you need your roots touched up every time you blink! Yet women constantly say, "My hair just won’t grow. Why doesn’t it ever get any longer?"

In order for your hair to grow, it has to have what I call a ‘healthy growth pattern’. Here’s what a healthy growth pattern looks like: Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Notice, there’s three times more growing going on here than trimming.


An ‘unhealthy growth pattern’ looks like this: Grow, break, grow, break. Grow, break, grow, break. There’s as much breakage going on here, as there is growth. You can see clearly that the hair is growing. But it’s breaking just as fast as it grows; the breakage is NEUTRALIZING the growth, making it appear as if it’s not growing at all! So what’s causing all the breakage? Dry, brittle hair.



THE MAIN REASON FOR DRY HAIR
You’ll notice that after you trim your hair, the ends seem dry again almost immediately! You’d think it was because of too much heat or blow-drying or maybe a bad perm. Although these treatments can sometimes dry out your hair, they only happen occasionally. The process that happens everyday, drying out your hair is...exposure to the air!

Yes, something that simple can be sapping your hair of life. Think for a moment; air dries your laundry, it cracks your house paint, it chaps your lips, it ashes your skin; it’s a serious drying agent. And when you wear you hair down regularly, air dries out your hair too. The movement of your hair against your clothing can dry your ends even more; and when ends get dry, they break off.

Picture an ear of corn with the husk on it. Did you ever notice how awful the silk looks that’s hanging on the outside of husk? But if you peel the husk down, the silk is soft, shiny and in excellent condition. The only difference is that the top silk has been exposed to the air, while the silk inside the husk has not. Air can cause damage to your hair. WANAKEE Oil for the Hair is a light daily application of protection against dryness that adds a gorgeous shine and allows the hair to remain clean feeling. It’s nice.



DEVELOPING A HEALTHY GROWTH PATTERN
Since the ends are the oldest part of your hair, they suffer the most from this constant exposure to air. You can end the breakage cycle and experience a healthy growth pattern by following these simple rules. They may not seem very significant at a glance, but they are the steps that restored my damaged strands to a full, healthy head of hair. Remember that you want to preserve the ends while the roots grow. Being consistent and patient every day is the key to your success.

1. KEEP YOU HAIR CLEAN AND CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT!

Wash you hair once a week with WANAKEE Beneficial Phase Shampoo or WANAKEE Moisture Emphasis Shampoo and make sure you condition it well. WANAKEE Advanced Conditioning Treatment and WANAKEE Moisture Emphasis Conditioners are made to target dry hair with deep conditioning and extraordinary moisture. Each formula is especially designed with more conditioning action than normal, because you absolutely need it (click onto "product information" for more details).

If you wash your hair less frequently than 7 days or so, the scalp may get irritated and begin to itch. And when dirt begins to build up on the strand, it slows down the brush or comb, creating a pulling affect, which can snap hairs. You’ll find that WANAKEE products make the hair easy to comb through when the hair is wet and when it’s dry. Each product in the line is customized to fit every special need you have throughout your hair regime.

2. WEAR YOUR HAIR IN PROTECTIVE HAIR STYLES AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN

This means wearing your hair ‘up’ in a style that tucks the ends safely underneath the hair so the ends are not seen. Remember the ear of corn with the husk again: protective styling is like taking the dry tip of the silk, and tucking it safely underneath the husk, out of the air. But if your ends go up dry, they’ll come down dry. WANAKEE Constant Care for Ends is the perfect treatment to soften and moisten and guard the ends from becoming brittle. WANAKEE Hairline Essential Creme is made to smooth the hairline in place and while it takes away dryness completely, it holds those shorter hairs in place. It gives the hair a look of sophistication.

My favorite protective styles are the French twist and the chignon (or bun). You should not be able to see the ends at all. A ponytail, for example, wouldn't be considered a protective style because the ends are moving and still exposed to the air. You can really have fun creating these styles, using all types of accessories and enhancing your look with simple things like earrings or a newly tweezed set of eyebrows! You can make your look clean or really do yourself up. Have fun with it.

If your hair is short, you’re going to protect your hair from the air and from too much movement while you sleep.

3. SLEEP WITH YOUR HAIR PROTECTED AT NIGHT.

I know, I know! This is where I lose a lot of you ladies who have spouses; but hear me out. It's important at night, again, to take your hair out of the air and especially to eliminate all of the rubbing that takes place while you sleep. This rubbing can be bad news in the morning when your ends are frayed beyond recognition. A good thing about wrapping (or tying up) your hair at night is that it requires less styling the next day (sometimes you’re actually ready to go with just a quick stroke of the brush).

If you’ve read my brochure, you've heard me say that wrapping your head at night need not be grounds for divorce. You can use a fine meshed hair net over your bun or over your hair if it’s short, and then apply a wide cotton spandex headband around the hairline. It looks similar to a regular daytime look. If you’re still not loving the idea, my next best advice is to put it on late and take it off early! By the way, just sleeping on a silk pillowcase won’t help if your hair is still moving around and exposed to the air.

If your wrap comes off, and at some point it probably will (especially if your hair is short), half a night’s protection is better than none. But this simple, traditional routine of tying the hair up at night is still a very helpful method in maintaining your hair.

4. GET YOUR HAIR TRIMMED EVERY 6 TO 8 WEEKS.

If you’re trying to grow your hair out, this is where protective styles really pay off. Your hair grows ¼ to ½ inch per month, so in 8 weeks it could have grown 1 inch. Let’s say you started your routine with a real good trim. And now, 8 weeks later it’s time for another trim. If you’ve been conditioning, using your Constant Care for Ends and wearing your protective styles everyday, your ends shouldn’t even be split. So now you’re going to trim your hair before it splits. You only have to trim ¼ inch or so because it’s not split. That means you have ¾ of an inch of new length. You put those brand-new, freshly trimmed ends right back up into your protective styles and next month you’ll accumulate another ¾ of an inch - that’s 1 and ½ inches of real length in four months!

Now let’s look at what happens if you don’t wear protective styles. You wear your hair down, it rubs all day against your shoulders and the air makes it dry - but it looks good, I understand.

But here’s what happens: you go to get your trim in 8 weeks and you really only want the hairdresser to take ¼ of an inch off. But she sees damage and split ends as far up as an 1 and ½ inches. She cuts the damage off and, even though your hair has grown an inch, you just lost ½ inch in length because the constant damage caused by your ends being exposed DICTATED TO YOU how much hair had to be cut. With protective styling, you trim before your hair splits and you determine how much you trim off. Every little quarter of an inch is a victory.

Some women have asked me, "What is the point of having long hair if you have to wear it up?" The point of wearing it up is to have long hair. Once a young lady asked, "About how long would it take for me to grow my hair really long?" I told her it would take about 4 years with regular trimmings. She said "Four years? I’ll be 34 years old in four years, that’s too much time!" I had to remind her that she was going to be 34 years old in four years anyway; might as well get there having fabulous hair.

If you have short hair, don’t let all this talk of protective styles disturb you. If you keep your hair cut short and trimmed on a regular basis, it’s automatically healthier by being trimmed more often. It's when hair becomes long that the protective styles become necessary. If you’re not growing your hair long, but are keeping it trimmed and styled at a fixed length, then you can get away with wearing it down more often than the person who is on a mission to grow long hair.
 
5. SLOW DOWN AND TAKE YOUR TIME WITH YOUR HAIR

This is so important. You must train yourself to be as gentle with your hair as you can. And while you’re at it, treat yourself to the luxury of not being in a hurry. Deliberately set aside a block of time for yourself to do your hair. Get yourself some grapes or a plate of orange slices, a fragrant candle or two. Transform this time into something nice for yourself; you know you deserve it! It’s important because you can take much better care of your hair this way. When you have more time to detangle, you’ll pull out less hairs. When you’re not supposed to be somewhere in half an hour, you’ll place the blow dryer on a slightly lower setting, which is healthier for the hair. Everything works to your advantage when you take your sweet time.

6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD WORKING TOOLS

Use a brush that feels good going through your hair, without pulling or ripping. There are different strengths of brushes; for instance, some natural bristle brushes can be gentler on wet hair than other brushes. Before washing your hair, you want to give your hair a real good brushing to get all the loose hairs out. For this you’ll want to use a brush that really grips; nicely messaging the scalp as well. Shop around for the brushes best suited for you (there are hundreds of good ones to choose from).

Make sure you always have a good detangling comb available; the longer the teeth, the better it can penetrate through thick hair. Don’t comb or brush your hair to detangle it; but detangle it before you comb or brush it. You’ll find out more about how to detangle in my Styling Guide. It’s free with your purchase of WANAKEE products.

When you have bobby pins with a tip that has lifted or come off, stop right there and throw it away! I call those ‘hair killers’; they go into the hair just fine, but when you pull them out, they always pull out hair. Also, when you buy hairpins, make sure the tip is rounded and not blunt. Rounded tips go in smoothly without getting stuck to the strands.

Check the inside of your curling iron to make sure there is no build-up underneath the top section. If there is burnt residue, clean it off. Hairs can drag against this residue and break.



CONCLUSION

With these six steps, you can get started with a good routine. Don't expect not to ever see any hair in your brush. You will always have breakage and shedding. But you should be able to reduce unnecessary breakage to an all-time low with the WANAKEE formulas. It is normal to shed up to 200 hairs per day. If you wear braids, for example, and you let them down after a month, the daily-accumulated hairs that loosened but never fell out can overwhelm you. They’re long and healthy, which really upsets you. But that’s normal. Remember you and are a mammal and mammals shed. Isn’t it funny how we never panic and feel like our cat is going bald when it’s shedding all over the sofa?
 
good points - but I don't think u need to trim every 8 weeks
ITA you can stretch that out a bit, but I guess if it's damaged or you're maintaining but not to grow it out.
Actually I think I'll try the more frequent trimming once I reach goal since I want a thicker hemline and I'll just be maintaining
 
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Thanks for sharing. There's lots of good info in there, and I liked how she said it's normal to see shedding and some breakage.
 
Thanks for posting the actual interview. I really enjoyed listening to that too. I like how she has a balanced perspective on haircare.
 
I'm feeling point number 5:

5. SLOW DOWN AND TAKE YOUR TIME WITH YOUR HAIR

This is so important. You must train yourself to be as gentle with your hair as you can. And while you’re at it, treat yourself to the luxury of not being in a hurry. Deliberately set aside a block of time for yourself to do your hair. Get yourself some grapes or a plate of orange slices, a fragrant candle or two. Transform this time into something nice for yourself; you know you deserve it! It’s important because you can take much better care of your hair this way. When you have more time to detangle, you’ll pull out less hairs. When you’re not supposed to be somewhere in half an hour, you’ll place the blow dryer on a slightly lower setting, which is healthier for the hair. Everything works to your advantage when you take your sweet time.

This is something I've still not yet mastered, but I will :) Thanks for the post!
 
It is normal to shed up to 200 hairs per day. If you wear braids, for example, and you let them down after a month, the daily-accumulated hairs that loosened but never fell out can overwhelm you. They’re long and healthy, which really upsets you. But that’s normal. Remember you and are a mammal and mammals shed. Isn’t it funny how we never panic and feel like our cat is going bald when it’s shedding all over the sofa?

I wish more board members would/could take the time to read this before posting an OMG HELP thread. If they did, we'd have a lot less panic. :grin:
 
I've always taken her trimming advice as being more for relaxed heads than natural ones.

It's actually a great tip for both naturals and relaxed cause it's keeping the splits to a minimum or none at all. She says trimming but it's more like dusting or S&D by her description the max she takes off is 1/4" that's not alot. Sometimes being natural you get little knots on the ends as they curl back up on themselves.
EVen though I don't take off much length I faithfully S&D my ends every 3-4 months, no knots, no splits, no rough ends and my hair stays manageable, also I retain more length when I S&D.
 
It's actually a great tip for both naturals and relaxed cause it's keeping the splits to a minimum or none at all. She says trimming but it's more like dusting or S&D by her description the max she takes off is 1/4" that's not alot. Sometimes being natural you get little knots on the ends as they curl back up on themselves.
EVen though I don't take off much length I faithfully S&D my ends every 3-4 months, no knots, no splits, no rough ends and my hair stays manageable, also I retain more length when I S&D.

You can just cut off the little knots :grin:. How do you get your dusting...do you do it on your hair as is or is it straightened 1st?
 
Allandra thank you for posting this as a sticky. Hopefully more people will read it. Wanakee's officially back in style, eh? ;)
 
You can just cut off the little knots :grin:. How do you get your dusting...do you do it on your hair as is or is it straightened 1st?

I usually do my S&D's when my hair needs it whether it's curly or straight, os as is at that time. Since I don't straighten my hair much I'm usually trimming when it's curly. I use the same method I think it's Feye's self trimming she has a site somewhere.
 
I still have the paper version of this that the company used to mail out - long before the web was so popular. Wanakee changed my whole hair life!
 
Wanakee's my official Relaxed Hair Inspiration. :yep:

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