Hey, Lilamae!
I have always heard that you rinse with cold water to seal/close the cuticle of your hair. Anyone else know something different?
Yup... cold water helps to close the cuticle.
Cold water does the opposite for me . Makes my hair hard. I always rinse with warm...cold water never gave me any extra shine either.I like using cold water on my hair. It, for some reason makes my hair less tangled. It also is more easier to manage.
Cold water does the opposite for me . Makes my hair hard. I always rinse with warm...cold water never gave me any extra shine either.
Sealing the cuticle with cold water looks like an excellent idea, but for me it would require ending my shower with a cold blast of water. I personally think I'd hate it unless I did it during the summer months.
I'm still not decided on this issue of cold water closing cuticles. I was challenged to do an experiment and haven't gotten round to it yet, so until I do, I can't comment. For now, I'm not convinced. What I'm SURE about is that the pH of the hair determines whether cuticles stay opened or closed. What I think cold water does is not rinse out the conditioner completely so that some coating is left on the hair to protect the strands. That's my 2 cents--until I do my experiment when I might sing a different tune.
Why is it important to have closed cuticles? Because closed cuticles mean smooth hair strands which means less tangling and less likelihood for damage to occur. Here are diagrams to explain.
The top layer of your hair strands is the cuticle which looks like overlapping scales not unlike what you see on fish:
That's kinda how your hair looks towards the base of the hair strands, where the hair is fairly new and so hasn't endured much wear and tear.
Further up along the hair strands, towards the ends, the scales are slightly lifted, due to normal manipulation that causes friction between strands:
The more open the cuticle, the more easily it is for the scales to be ripped off as in the pic below of a cuticle damaged by backcombing heavily sprayed hair:
You can imagine if you have strands that are in that shape, they'll hook onto each other and tangle like no one's business. Also any manipulation to hair that looks like that leads to the scales being yanked off exposing the cortex.
In the pic below, some of the cuticle has ripped off and the protein strands of the cortex (the central part of hair strands) can be seen:
Continued damage leads to:
And then the cortex starts to split apart (split ends):
So you see, a closed cuticle is a safeguard against hair damage. Hard water whose pH is high opens hair cuticles and makes the strands rough so that they exert more friction on each other (damage) and also tangle more easily. What's more, raised scales make the hair dull as it doesn't reflect light properly so it doesn't appear to shine. So it's worthwhile investing in a shower filter, an acidic shampoo and good conditioners to coat your hair and further ensure that strands glide smoothly against each other. Did I mention an apple cider vinegar rinse is a good way to ensure that your cuticles close?
The one time it is necessary to open the cuticles is when relaxing our hair. It is necessary to open the scales for the relaxer to go inide the strands and break bonds to get the hair straight. That's why relaxers (eg lye) are alkaline. But after the processing, a neutralizer is used to close the cuticles again and bring the pH back down to it's normal acidic one.
(The pics are courtesy of the P&G Beauty Science website. You can read more about cuticles and how they get damaged in this chapter on the site.)
Those pics are scary. I was like, my poor hair!
I've been scared straight into rinsing with cold water.
Sweetgal, I never use cold water. I use lukewarm. I honestly think that the only thing we're to avoid is stripping the hair which would happen with very hot water. I honestly don't think cold water does anymore good than lukewarm. Both will not remove the conditioning coat. On the other hand, rinsing with cold hard water does your hair no good whatsoever! The hard water has a high pH which is conducive for opening cuticles so instead of worrying to much about using cold water, I think people should focus on using neutral water or an acid solution as a final rinse because I know--and there's enough scientific info out there--that it is the pH and not the temperature that closes cuticles. If anyone can point me to some scientific info on cuticles closing due to cold water--not forum discussions that echo this hypothesis, but actual info from scientists--I will stand corrected. The only thing I can say against using hot water is that it will strip off the coating left behind by conditioner and thus remove the extra slip you got from conditioning. But lukewarm or cold water will not. But that's JMHO.
I understand what you're saying. To help retain this information, I'm just going to paraphrase. Please tell me if I'm correct.
It really has nothing to do with the temperature of the water. Smooth cuticles are achieved by a neutral pH level. Cold water and hot water will BOTH have a high pH levels if they are in an area with hard water. It is actually important to get a water filter and/or acidic conditioner if you're attemping to hamper overly porous hair. Cold water strips your hair much less, thus maintaining the pH level and "slip" of the product that was previously rinsed, but its pH level is no different from hot water.
I understand what you're saying. To help retain this information, I'm just going to paraphrase. Please tell me if I'm correct.
It really has nothing to do with the temperature of the water. Smooth cuticles are achieved by a neutral pH level. Cold water and hot water will BOTH have a high pH levels if they are in an area with hard water. It is actually important to get a water filter and/or acidic conditioner if you're attemping to hamper overly porous hair. Cold water strips your hair much less, thus maintaining the pH level and "slip" of the product that was previously rinsed, but its pH level is no different from hot water.
Sweetgal, I never use cold water. I use lukewarm. I honestly think that the only thing we're to avoid is stripping the hair which would happen with very hot water. I honestly don't think cold water does anymore good than lukewarm. Both will not remove the conditioning coat. On the other hand, rinsing with cold hard water does your hair no good whatsoever! The hard water has a high pH which is conducive for opening cuticles so instead of worrying to much about using cold water, I think people should focus on using neutral water or an acid solution as a final rinse because I know--and there's enough scientific info out there--that it is the pH and not the temperature that closes cuticles. If anyone can point me to some scientific info on cuticles closing due to cold water--not forum discussions that echo this hypothesis, but actual info from scientists--I will stand corrected. The only thing I can say against using hot water is that it will strip off the coating left behind by conditioner and thus remove the extra slip you got from conditioning. But lukewarm or cold water will not. But that's JMHO.
So is the ACV the last rinse after DC conditioner, but before the leave in?
Also, I generally see the discussion of ACV mostly during naturals questions...does this rule still apply to us 'permies?'
Thank you
what can be used a acid solution for the final rinse?
ITA, I've done my homework on the subject and I believe that cold water rinse won't make any difference. I was happy when I heard that cold water doesn't make a difference because running cold water over my head is so uncomfortable- unless it's summertimeSweetgal, I never use cold water. I use lukewarm. I honestly think that the only thing we're to avoid is stripping the hair which would happen with very hot water. I honestly don't think cold water does anymore good than lukewarm. Both will not remove the conditioning coat. On the other hand, rinsing with cold hard water does your hair no good whatsoever! The hard water has a high pH which is conducive for opening cuticles so instead of worrying to much about using cold water, I think people should focus on using neutral water or an acid solution as a final rinse because I know--and there's enough scientific info out there--that it is the pH and not the temperature that closes cuticles. If anyone can point me to some scientific info on cuticles closing due to cold water--not forum discussions that echo this hypothesis, but actual info from scientists--I will stand corrected. The only thing I can say against using hot water is that it will strip off the coating left behind by conditioner and thus remove the extra slip you got from conditioning. But lukewarm or cold water will not. But that's JMHO.
Cold water does the opposite for me . Makes my hair hard. I always rinse with warm...cold water never gave me any extra shine either.