Those Seeking Healthier Hair Trade Chemicals For Curls, Kinks

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Five years ago, Scharon Burgher stepped into the bathroom with straight hair and a pair of scissors.

“I cut it all off, came out and showed my husband,” the 31-year-old said. “It was a teeny-weeny little afro, and I loved it.”

Soon after giving birth to their son, Burgher decided that she was finished with “relaxers” — products used to smooth textured hair — and would return to her natural roots.

Now chin length, Burgher’s red-streaked curls have since inspired her move beyond healthy hair into a healthy lifestyle. Confident and chemical-free, she started walking, running and doing yoga — often visiting Highbanks Metro Park to exercise with her family.

Her tale of transformation was a familiar one at the recent International Natural Hair Meetup Day, which drew about 120 central Ohio women to the Rosedale International Center on the Near East Side to celebrate their kinks and coils.

Despite the differing definitions of natural hair — some proponents spurn color; others can’t live without it — many agree that increased versatility is a major appeal.

With the Willow Smith song Whip My Hair blaring in the background, the ladies — modeling natural hairstyles ranging from purple-tinged afros and twists to dreadlocks — settled in to hear Columbus holistic health advocate Gerri Prince-Rivers explain that “Our hair is not a stand-alone part of our body” and that textured hair should be protected from toxins.

Although any health risks associated with using relaxers are unconfirmed on a wider scale — a 2012 Boston University study linking relaxers to noncancerous tumors called uterine fibroids is incomplete — 34-year-old Shanta “Star” Anderson nonetheless saw a marked change in her health after she went natural.

Anderson — founder of the Columbus Naturalistas, sponsor of the event — learned six years ago that she has hair folliculitis. The disease, which her dermatologist attributed to her use of relaxers, gave her headaches and major breakouts on her scalp; it disappeared after she ditched relaxing chemicals.

The Dayton resident started the Naturalistas in 2011 to connect with other natural hair wearers in the region. The group, which has more than doubled in size since January, is approaching 600 members on its Facebook page.

“It’s good to see people actually wear their hair and not feel like they have to perform to a European standard,” Anderson said.

Learning to love her hair was a more gradual process for Tasha Branham, who cut ties with relaxers in 2007.

“The goal was to grow it out and then cut it, (but) I had absolutely no patience,” said Branham, 34. “One Friday night, I was in front of the mirror and I just started cutting. And, before I knew it, I was like, ‘Oh my gosh, I cut all of it off.’  ”

Not even an emergency trip to the barber and a wig could temper Branham’s angst over her cropped head. She tried to compensate for the loss with big earrings and “anything else to try to feel feminine and pretty.”

As Branham’s locks grew back, so did her self-esteem, leading her to create a line of natural hair products in 2009.

“The first time I made it, I had no idea what I was doing, so I had to use my kids to test out the products,” Branham said. “They were covered in this beeswaxy stuff.”

What began as a kitchen experiment turned into Naturally Smitten, a brand that in May reached select Walmart shelves.

The growth regionally in the natural hair scene mirrors a national trend that Tonya Roberts, multicultural analyst at global marketing research firm Mintel, calls a “movement".

A 2014 Mintel study on African-American consumers and hair care showed that hair-care products for African-Americans accounted for $774 million in retail sales, up 2.5 percent from the previous year.

The figure, Roberts said, doesn’t include mainstream beauty brands, online sales or sales at independent beauty-supply stores — meaning that the increase is likely higher.

“I think it’s incredible,” said Roberts, who wears her natural hair with pride. “As an African-American female, I’m really happy to see we’re changing the story and sharing our true self.”

As natural hair has become more acceptable in the past 15 to 20 years, Roberts said, the larger world has taken notice.

Celebrities and CEOs, including Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o and Xerox president Ursula Burns, eschew relaxers. In 2007, Cincinnati-based Procter & Gamble started “My Black Is Beautiful,” a program that has since promoted conversations about true beauty through videos, blog posts and awards shows.

Black people are becoming more comfortable in their skin,” Roberts said.

Burgher, who once fretted over frizz, reached a new level of self-confidence after regularly receiving compliments on her kinky do.

“Everyone says my hair looks beautiful, so obviously when people ask what you’re doing, you’re like, ‘Oh, there’s something to it; of course I look good,’  ” she said.

Her waves are even weatherproof.

“It rained today and I said, ‘It’s OK — it can just get bigger, and I’ll love that.'"
 
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