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Q&A With Diane Da Costa
Softening and Curl Reform
By: Diane Lym-Tai Da Costa, Master Curly Textured Expert
Welcome back to another month of how to's and the quest to provide informative and instructional techniques to achieve healthy, glamorous smooth and curly textured styles. Since last month, I've been gearing up to bring you a great beauty experience on the Diane Da Costa's American Beauty Tour and for this months article, I've decided to tackle the issue of relaxers, answering some of your chemical and non-chemical styling questions.
A BTC viewer recently sent an email and asked, “Is there a method to create a softer frizz-free curl without the Jerri Curl look?
The answer is yes. The actual methods and relaxing systems have definitely evolved and are much more advanced since the Jerri Curl was invented. The Jerri Curl was the first method developed to create a desired curl pattern using Thio-glycolate. It works the same way a permanent wave method is achieved, but the main difference is that chemists believed textured curl patterns had to be deconstructed and flatten before it could be reformed into a desired curl pattern. This was a three-method process which was very unnecessary, mainly because you don't have to straighten curly hair to achieve a curly look that is already curly. You would only do this if you want a specific curl pattern that only a rod set could achieve.
Get Diane Da Costa's New TEXTURED TRESSES in the BTC Bookstore!
What does it mean to soften or to reform a curl pattern?
Softening, also referred to as texturizing, is the technique trained chemical-stylists execute to release a particular curl pattern in order to achieve a softer, frizz-free look while retaining a curl pattern. The outcome or result of each curl depends upon the curl pattern you begin with.
One thing you want to ask yourself - Is the texture a loose curl, spiral curl, cock screw curl, coily curl or does the curl have a zig-zag pattern? Your initial analysis will determine how long you will leave the relaxer crème or lotion on the hair or if you will use a brush, a wide tooth comb or a textured comb to achieve the desired look.
Technique is the key here! You should be familiar with the relaxing process and how fast the sodium, calcium, Thio or non-chemical relaxing system works for each type of curl pattern. Also, the entire head does not contain the same curl pattern all over, therefore the application is also a defining point.
How do you apply and where should you start the process?
If the curl is loose, on the edges or on the hair line, those areas should be applied last. On the other hand, if the hair is coarse or tight, the relaxer crème should be applied there first. Also, applying the relaxer in sections (working through or not), then rinsing per section will achieve better results. If you relax the hair straight, removing all the elasticity of the curl pattern by using a fine tooth comb to achieve the textured look, you will not achieve a soft, smooth, frizz-less curl patten. What you will achieve is over-processed hair. Textured hair should never be relaxed bone straight, only softened with varied degrees of waviness or straightness.
Softening and Curl Reforming can be achieved with non-chemical relaxer systems, low or mild sodium-hydroxide, mild calcium-hydroxide relaxer systems and Thio-glycolate smoothing lotions. The product that I have had the best result with thus far in achieving smooth and frizz-free curly textures is PhytoSpecific Beauty Relaxer. This all botanical, organic formula is made with active egg and soy extract ingredients and mushroom crystals without odor or scalp irritation. Some of your favorite celebrities have softened their tresses with this relaxing process such as Oprah Winfrey and Vanessa Williams. While quite expensive, I think it is worth every dollar and will absolutely triple your revenues in the salon. Other relaxing systems that can achieve the softening and curl reforming look is Design Essential Low Sodium Relaxer and Mizani Butter Blend, mild formula.
Curl Reform Step-by-Step from Diane Da Costa
Before: Model Asia Michaels wears her natural virgin textured hair
Step 1: Diane applies a beauty relaxer with her signature Softener Technique™
a. Apply the relaxer straightening complex in sections
b. Rinse out relaxer
c. Shampoo with a neutralizing emulsion and a nutrient-rich shampoo
d. Condition and steam hair (you can try the Milky restructurer and Intense Nutrition Mask from PhytoSpecific) for extra hydration
e. Comb and separate with a wide-tooth comb, leaving the conditioner on for 5-10 minutes
f. Apply a leave-in conditioner
g. Style and finish with a shine wax for hold
Step 2: For a smooth, sexy look, roller set or lightly blow dry with an ionic dryer and straighten with a ceramic flat iron.
Step 3: Finish with a shine spray
Have questions or problems you need help with? Please forward them to [email protected] and I'll make sure to include questions in the topic of the month.
View more before and after images of my Softening & Curl Reforming Technique on www.dianedacosta.com under the Textured Tresses (How to Achieve) menu button.
Softening and Curl Reform
By: Diane Lym-Tai Da Costa, Master Curly Textured Expert
Welcome back to another month of how to's and the quest to provide informative and instructional techniques to achieve healthy, glamorous smooth and curly textured styles. Since last month, I've been gearing up to bring you a great beauty experience on the Diane Da Costa's American Beauty Tour and for this months article, I've decided to tackle the issue of relaxers, answering some of your chemical and non-chemical styling questions.
A BTC viewer recently sent an email and asked, “Is there a method to create a softer frizz-free curl without the Jerri Curl look?
The answer is yes. The actual methods and relaxing systems have definitely evolved and are much more advanced since the Jerri Curl was invented. The Jerri Curl was the first method developed to create a desired curl pattern using Thio-glycolate. It works the same way a permanent wave method is achieved, but the main difference is that chemists believed textured curl patterns had to be deconstructed and flatten before it could be reformed into a desired curl pattern. This was a three-method process which was very unnecessary, mainly because you don't have to straighten curly hair to achieve a curly look that is already curly. You would only do this if you want a specific curl pattern that only a rod set could achieve.
Get Diane Da Costa's New TEXTURED TRESSES in the BTC Bookstore!
What does it mean to soften or to reform a curl pattern?
Softening, also referred to as texturizing, is the technique trained chemical-stylists execute to release a particular curl pattern in order to achieve a softer, frizz-free look while retaining a curl pattern. The outcome or result of each curl depends upon the curl pattern you begin with.
One thing you want to ask yourself - Is the texture a loose curl, spiral curl, cock screw curl, coily curl or does the curl have a zig-zag pattern? Your initial analysis will determine how long you will leave the relaxer crème or lotion on the hair or if you will use a brush, a wide tooth comb or a textured comb to achieve the desired look.
Technique is the key here! You should be familiar with the relaxing process and how fast the sodium, calcium, Thio or non-chemical relaxing system works for each type of curl pattern. Also, the entire head does not contain the same curl pattern all over, therefore the application is also a defining point.
How do you apply and where should you start the process?
If the curl is loose, on the edges or on the hair line, those areas should be applied last. On the other hand, if the hair is coarse or tight, the relaxer crème should be applied there first. Also, applying the relaxer in sections (working through or not), then rinsing per section will achieve better results. If you relax the hair straight, removing all the elasticity of the curl pattern by using a fine tooth comb to achieve the textured look, you will not achieve a soft, smooth, frizz-less curl patten. What you will achieve is over-processed hair. Textured hair should never be relaxed bone straight, only softened with varied degrees of waviness or straightness.
Softening and Curl Reforming can be achieved with non-chemical relaxer systems, low or mild sodium-hydroxide, mild calcium-hydroxide relaxer systems and Thio-glycolate smoothing lotions. The product that I have had the best result with thus far in achieving smooth and frizz-free curly textures is PhytoSpecific Beauty Relaxer. This all botanical, organic formula is made with active egg and soy extract ingredients and mushroom crystals without odor or scalp irritation. Some of your favorite celebrities have softened their tresses with this relaxing process such as Oprah Winfrey and Vanessa Williams. While quite expensive, I think it is worth every dollar and will absolutely triple your revenues in the salon. Other relaxing systems that can achieve the softening and curl reforming look is Design Essential Low Sodium Relaxer and Mizani Butter Blend, mild formula.
Curl Reform Step-by-Step from Diane Da Costa
Before: Model Asia Michaels wears her natural virgin textured hair
Step 1: Diane applies a beauty relaxer with her signature Softener Technique™
a. Apply the relaxer straightening complex in sections
b. Rinse out relaxer
c. Shampoo with a neutralizing emulsion and a nutrient-rich shampoo
d. Condition and steam hair (you can try the Milky restructurer and Intense Nutrition Mask from PhytoSpecific) for extra hydration
e. Comb and separate with a wide-tooth comb, leaving the conditioner on for 5-10 minutes
f. Apply a leave-in conditioner
g. Style and finish with a shine wax for hold
Step 2: For a smooth, sexy look, roller set or lightly blow dry with an ionic dryer and straighten with a ceramic flat iron.
Step 3: Finish with a shine spray
Have questions or problems you need help with? Please forward them to [email protected] and I'll make sure to include questions in the topic of the month.
View more before and after images of my Softening & Curl Reforming Technique on www.dianedacosta.com under the Textured Tresses (How to Achieve) menu button.
