Some helpful (hopefully) information ... hard water, conditioning, and relaxers

LiLi

Well-Known Member
First off this information is not just for relaxed heads. I feel that it's useful for natural and relaxed hair.

After much confusion with the hard water issue I decided to call in the big dogs; so I e-mailed Redken about this issue. I use a product of theirs called Hair Cleansing Cream and have been for a couple of years now. My question to them was if it was safe to use the Hair Cleansing Cream daily . I also asked them if it's a chelating cleanser then how is if effective if you are still rinsing with hard water. (For some it's common sense but for other's, like myself, it's a valid question). Well they e-mailed me back and asked that I call them for more information. So I called and spoke to an extremely helpful Redken technician named Judy. I asked her the first question.
She said that she doesn't advise the use of the Cleansing Cream daily for relaxed or naturally curly hair because it may dry out the hair. She also advised against using it every other day but said that it was possible to do so; I'll take her advice though and continue to use it once a week.

She explained the second question (rinsing with hard water). She said hard water is not a bad thing. But the buildup from the hard water is. She said that what chelating cleansers like the Redken Hair Cleansing Cream do is allow penetration of the conditioner.

Then a big light finally went on in my head ... that is why the same conditioner will work well one time (I always use the Cleansing Cream when it's my first time using a conditioner) and doesn't do anything later on. Everytime I use the Cleansing Cream I always get excellent results from any conditioner that I use. However, when I use a different shampoo (even if it's a clarifier) with the same conditioner (over a period of time) I don't get the same results. I hope that makes sense??
Over the years I have noticed so many people on here say that they use clarifying shampoos and that the conditioners they used to love still don't work anymore even after clarifying. I, too, was stumped as to why this happens - other than a change in the formula. So I have been doing research and found that in order to remove all of the mineral and calcium deposits you have to use a chelating shampoo.

Clarifying shampoos only remove surface buildup ... chelating shampoos cleanse the hair from the inside. Now some are harsh but there are others that are very gentle. Like I said, I absolutely love the Redken Cleansing Cream and my hair doesn't feel stripped or anything after using it.

She also said that using a chelating shampoo (of course she said the Cleansing Cream but I say chelating since Redken isn't the only brand that has a chelating cleanser) 48-72 hours before a relaxer will allow the relaxer to yield better results.

So I decided to ask her more and asked her what ingredients should a person avoid before applying a relaxer. She said anything that is made mostly of petroleum. She said it doesn't matter if it's used on the previously relaxed hair since you aren't supposed to put relaxer on those sections anyway; but make sure to avoid products with those ingredients on the new growth.

I also think that conditioners stop working due to buildup from switching to different conditioners. For instance:

Say you use Elucence with wonderful results and then switch to a different conditioner for a little while. When you switch back to your beloved Elucence you say, "Hey what happened ... this used to work and now it's crap".

If, before you start using the Elucence again, you cleansed your hair with a chelating shampoo, then Elucence might work just as well as it did before since you got rid of the buildup from the other conditioner.

I hope this all makes sense to my LHCF sisters and hopefully it will help you in your hair care journey.
 
WOW! I think you've just solved an age-old hair mystery.... This is some very very helpful info. i'm not in the market for a new product but when i do...i definitely will invest in purchasing a chelating poo and use it wisely.

Thanks so very much for sharing.
 
Wow, thanks. Very articulate.

How do I know if I have a chelating shampoo? Is there a particular ingredient I should look for? Mine says it removes mineral deposits. :look:
 
Yes thank you for sharing this! I will be adding this to my favorites, maybe this will help me and others cut down on the PJism.:)
 
LiLi said:
So I decided to ask her more and asked her what ingredients should a person avoid before applying a relaxer. She said anything that is made mostly of petroleum.

But isn't petroleum what we use to base our scalp before applying a relaxer? And I know some like to even base their scalp hours or the night b4 a relaxer. I know it's only your scalp, but I'm sure some also gets on your hair and the newgrowth.
 
sareca said:
Wow, thanks. Very articulate.

How do I know if I have a chelating shampoo? Is there a particular ingredient I should look for? Mine says it removes mineral deposits. :look:

You are very welcome. :)

If it says it removes mineral deposits then I would say yes. But to be sure give me the name of the shampoo and I will find out. As far as what ingredient to look for ... well I think there are several. However, EDTAs are supposed to be chelating agents -- such as Disodium Ethylene-diaminetetraacetic Acid (Disodium EDTA) or Tetrasodium EDTA. Also, I believe the ones that don't dry out your hair contain Citric Acids in them to balance the PH? (Please someone correct me if I'm wrong)
 
_lovelyness said:
Do you have a list of shampoo which contains chelatin (besides redken) ? Thanks !

Sure (but I'm sure there are more than what I am going to list)...

Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo
Nexxus Aloe Rid
Nexxus - Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo
Paul Mitchell Shampoo Three
Joico Resolve Chelating Shampoo
Ouidad Water Works
Artec Texturline Daily Clarifying Shampoo

Hopefully you will find one that you really like. I'm certain you will notice a difference if you have had or are having problems with conditioners not performing well. I'm telling you, everytime I use the Cleansing Cream, it's like I fall in love with whatever conditioner I followed it with. I use that conditioner for a little while but then I switch to another conditioner for a while and go back to the old one without using the chelating shampoo and then I'm like "my beloved conditioner no longer works". I'm glad that I spoke to the technician today because it would have never clicked.
 
secretdiamond said:
But isn't petroleum what we use to base our scalp before applying a relaxer? And I know some like to even base their scalp hours or the night b4 a relaxer. I know it's only your scalp, but I'm sure some also gets on your hair and the newgrowth.


Yes we do use petroleum to base our scalp but, remember, you are supposed to apply the relaxer 1/4" from the scalp so as long as you put the base ONLY on the scalp then you won't have a problem. My scalp protector has a tip applicator so it doesn't go past a quarter-inch from my scalp.

I've been on this board for several years and a lot of people have complained about their relaxer not working as well as it did previously; and I started thinking that it must be what they are using prior to the chemical service. I actually e-mailed Motions about it several weeks ago and they gave me no helpful information. They basically said that you can use anything except for heavy sprays -- like hairsprays. I had a feeling that it wasn't true.
 
Thanks for the info... I never knew we were suppose to apply it 1/4 inch away from the scalp. That makes so much sense since we have to do that when applying permanent color. :think:
 
Alli77 said:
Sorry to digress...but your hair looks gorgeous!

Awww !! Thank :) :)
And lili, thanks alot for the info !
Do you think I can forget clarifying shampoo, and use chelatin shampoo instead ?
How often do you use chelatin shampoo ? Do you use it before any conditioner wash/treatment ?
 
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Very interesting. I'm touching-up next week so I'll definitely be looking to purchase a chelating poo over the weekend. Thanks for sharing LiLi!
 
_lovelyness said:
Do you have a list of shampoo which contains chelatin (besides redken) ? Thanks !

I second the comment on your hair style, Lovelyness. I love, love, love it! I tried to add a comment to your album, but could not figure out how. I love this style from all angles. It looks beautiful on you. I hope you don't mind, but I want to copy it. ;)
 
Any chelating shampoos without SLS???
Also, won't a vinegar rinse do the same thing as the chelating shampoo???
 
I don't think that vinegar will do it for chelating. It does well for clarifying removing product build up.
 
_lovelyness said:
Awww !! Thank :) :)
And lili, thanks alot for the info !
Do you think I can forget clarifying shampoo, and use chelatin shampoo instead ?
How often do you use chelatin shampoo ? Do you use it before any conditioner wash/treatment ?

Oh yes ... your braids looks sooo pretty.

That's funny that you ask because I've only ever used Redken Cleansing Cream because I love it so much and I never knew about chelating shampoos until I started looking into hard water and shower filters. That's why all of this has clicked so much for me because I have always gotten great results after conditioning when I use the cleansing cream; but it wasn't until yesterday when I spoke with the Redken tech that I found out that the Cleansing Cream is actually a chelating cleanser. So, yes, that is all I use even though previously I thought I was only clarifying. I have always used mine once a week but now I will make sure that when I know I am going to use a different conditioner, that I use the chelator first.

I use conditioner everyday so I don't use a chelator daily but from now on when I switch to a different conditioner I will use the Cleansing Cream first since I know that the conditioner I use will be able to yield the best results.

Also just a note. Some chelating shampoos are harsh while others are gentle. I would suggest that if you try one and it makes your hair feel too stripped try a different one -- until you find the one that you like. I would be interested in seeing if my theory works for everyone that tries it so if you try it please let me know you results.
 
BeautifulWideEyes said:
Thanks for the info,:D , this will be something I add to my regimen, you sound just like a hair scientist, very well put. :cool:


ITA..I am glad that you followed up with such an important topic. I would have liked for you to elaborate a little more about how hard water is not "bad". If you are continuously using it for daily or weekly shampooing, conditioning, etc.. build up is inevitable. Please advise.

Thanks in advance.
 
aaaaaawww !!!!!! I'm blushing !!! Thanks alot ! you made my day :D
Of course you're free to copy it ! I really really don't mind !!!

Lili, I think the best bet is to try redken first !! I hope I can find it in london. I'll let ya know what the results are !
Thanks again !

xippy said:
I second the comment on your hair style, Lovelyness. I love, love, love it! I tried to add a comment to your album, but could not figure out how. I love this style from all angles. It looks beautiful on you. I hope you don't mind, but I want to copy it. ;)
 
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Wow, thanks for the info! that makes a lot of sense.
My only question is, I have (I think hard water), whenever I wash my hair at home it's dryish and brittle feeling, but if it's not the hard water so much the buildup then why if I go to a salon the next day even if I haven't used a chelating shampoo or deep cleanser the conditioner seems to work.

I'm definitely going to check out the redken or joico chelating shampoo.
 
vickid said:
Any chelating shampoos without SLS???
Also, won't a vinegar rinse do the same thing as the chelating shampoo???

Vicki vinegar rinses help with product buildup on the hair's surface as well as balancing the PH of the scalp and hair but chelating shampoos actually break up any minerals that have built up.
 
MzTami said:
ITA..I am glad that you followed up with such an important topic. I would have liked for you to elaborate a little more about how hard water is not "bad". If you are continuously using it for daily or weekly shampooing, conditioning, etc.. build up is inevitable. Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

You are welcome Tami. After finding out that shower filters can not remove hard water and a whole house filter was out of the question for me (since I rent) I just HAD to find some type of resolution to the problem. Remember, in my initial post, I said that hard water is not a bad thing (according to the Redken technician) but over time it causes mineral buildup.

It's kind of like the chrome around the faucet. Once you clean it with a calcium/limescale remover then it's all nice and shiney ... right? ... But then, depending on how hard your water is, the scale deposits start to show up again. Using a regular cleaner everyday cleans the regular dirt on your faucet but if it doesn't contain the ingredients in it to break up the scale deposits then you will start to see the buildup again in 1-4 weeks depending on how hard your water is.

So a week's worth of buildup may not pose a problem with your hair; but if you have, say, 4 weeks worth that's when you may have a problem. So the regular use of a chelating shampoo will ensure that your products will work effectively all of the time.

I hope this is helpful for you and everyone else.
 
secretdiamond said:
Thanks for the info... I never knew we were suppose to apply it 1/4 inch away from the scalp. That makes so much sense since we have to do that when applying permanent color. :think:

YES!!! ... I'm glad a lightbulb went on for you too. I've been at this whole hair care thing for many many years and this will help me put all of my knowledge together to optimize the condition of my hair.
 
SleekandBouncy said:
Wow, thanks for the info! that makes a lot of sense.
My only question is, I have (I think hard water), whenever I wash my hair at home it's dryish and brittle feeling, but if it's not the hard water so much the buildup then why if I go to a salon the next day even if I haven't used a chelating shampoo or deep cleanser the conditioner seems to work.

I'm definitely going to check out the redken or joico chelating shampoo.

Could it be that your salon is using a chelating shampoo? Most salons automatically do this before conditioning treatments. Or some salons will sit clients under the dryer for longer periods of time because that allows the conditioner to penetrate through all of the minerals (if they are too lazy to just use a chelating shampoo).

But I can almost bet that if they use a chelating shampoo then they would only need to sit you under the dryer for 10 minutes with the same or even better results.
 
Wow, thanks for listing the shampoos that you know of. I actually use the Nexxus Aloe Rid as my clarifying poo. I didn't know it was chelating but i'm glad to find out that it is! I use it probably about once every 2months. It does work really well and my hair isn't left hard or brittle.

Its weird cause this thought came to me out of the blue, in the middle of the night so i had to remember to post it (Yes, i'm crazy about haircare) Well if any of you browsed the Kenra website (and Nexxus) you will see a statement about their ultra moisturizing shampoo(s) stating that the cleansing ingredients in their poos are too large to penetrate the hair, they only clean the surface dirt, therefore not drying out the hair. Which means they are safe to use daily. So and by you stating that the chelating poo penetrates the hair and cleans it from the inside out, then this means that it is or can be drying and should only be done on a 'not-so-often' basis. do you all follow me? Basically i just want you all to be aware that it is not wise to use this type of 'inside cleansing' poo often because it has drying effects on the hair. How often is up to you and your hair, of course.

good luck!!! :)
 
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