Hey DC, I went to three consults last year for underprocessed hair. My underprocess was like this: ~~~~------~~~~~~-----------
The first set of ~~~ was my ng...I wanted the second set of ~~~~ to get straight. So the stylists said the following:
Stylists 1 & 2: Apply relaxer to the underprocessed hair that is down the hair shaft
first since it is further away from the scalp, it will take longer to process. Versus applying the relaxer to the ng closer to the scalp first, the body heat will process the ng faster and not allow enough time to go thru and make sure the underprocessed hair has enough time to process...if not cuz the client starts to burn, then the stylist has to rinse out the relaxer leaving the underprocess hair still wavy. They believe you correct this type of underprocessing similar to how you relax virgin hair. But I'm not quite sure if your underprocessing is similar to this pattern.
Here is a YT video of someone explaining the same concept but she is not underprocessed. She just had a really long stretch and was focusing on the strands away from the scalp first.
Stylist 3 wanted to apply relaxer to the new growth
first and pull the relaxer thru at the end for five minutes.
Well, I should have went with Stylist 1 or 2 cuz I burned with Stylist 3 since she applied at the scalp first. I burned quickly too because she was flying trying to pull it thru...it just did not work...
nothing was straight or even texlaxed.
I thought I was playing it safe by going with the "scalp" first method because I was afraid Stylist 1 & 2 didn't know what they were talking about (and I didn't want my length to be
overprocessed)
Now, please don't take my word on which route to go..it seemed like a trial and error. But hindsight, in the mouth of two or more witnesses...I should have listened to Stylist 1 and 2 and went with the corrective relaxer on my hair strands first.
HTH!