Interesting Findings on No-Lye Relaxers

[FashionistaNY]

No-Lye Relaxer Products Used in Study (type of neutralizer supplied with product)
A. Dark & Lovely (shampoo neutralizer)
B. Optimum (shampoo neutralizer)
C. Soft & Beautiful (shampoo neutralizer)
D. Precise (shampoo neutralizer)
E. P-Profectiv (neutralizer mousse)

The neutralizer mousse in the Profectiv product has the following formulation:
Part A Water q.s. to 100 Preservative 1.00 Polymer JR30M 0.40 AMAZE 1.00
Part B-Premix Water 1.00 Triethanolamine, 88% 0.56
Part C-Premix Water 1.00 Phenol Red (Indicator) 0.01
Part D-Premix Water 1.00 Citric Acid, anhydrous 0.41
Part E Cocamidopropylbetaine, 30% 6.75 Mackinate EL 2.50
Part F-Premix Polysorbate 20 1.00 Fragrance and natural extracts 0.40

The premix ingredients were mixed together to form a mousse concentrate. The mousse concentrate was charged into a mousse dispenser.

The salon evaluator parted a head of hair into two sections down the middle. The left side of the head was defined and then one of either of the no-lye relaxers denoted A, B, C or D was applied to one side of the half head.

Each other half head had a single no-lye relaxer applied to the head using Profectiv. In the relaxer application and neutralizing process, care was taken to keep products separate on each side of the head. After completion of the relaxing and neutralizing steps, the salon evaluator took care to collect broken hair that had fallen out from each side of head. Broken hair from each side of the head was then placed in a marked container. After broken hair naturally dried inside the marked container, the evaluator counted broken hair from each half head side. The hair count is shown in Table 1.

COMPARISON OF HAIR RELAXED WITH NO LYE RELAXERS AND TREATED WITH SHAMPOO-TYPE NEUTRALIZER AND NEUTRALIZER MOUSSE COMPOSITIONS Number of % Decrease Broken Number of in Number of Hairs:

Broken Hairs Type of relaxer Neutralizer Hairs: with Neutralizer Head per each half of Mousse Shampoo Mousse Number head Composition Neutralizers Composition

1 P/A 39 58 -33%
2 P/B 55 75 -27%
3 P/C 35 47 -26%
4 P/B 60 75 -20%
5 P/A 204 316 -35%
6 P/D 55 70 -21%
7 P/C 40 65 -38%
8 P/B 62 87 -29%
9 P/B 107 130 -18%
10 P/A 67 100 -33%
11 P/D 100 147 -32%
12 P/C 66 79 -16%
13 P/A 125 155 -19%
TOTAL 1015 1404 -28%

From the above data, which are presented in graphic form in FIG. 1, it is apparent that hair relaxed with no-lye relaxer that is neutralized using a neutralizer mousse composition of the present invention exhibits significantly less breakage than hair on the same head that has been relaxed with a no-lye relaxer and neutralized with a shampoo-type neutralizer product. Moreover, the evaluators consistently rated the neutralizer mousse composition treated hair as shinier and softer than hair treated with shampoo-type neutralizers. Further, the evaluators recognized that hair neutralized with the neutralizer mousse compositions of the present invention had increased tensile strength. These results demonstrate that the neutralizer mousse compositions of the present invention provide results that are superior to neutralization with competitive shampoo-type neutralizer compositions.

 

[FashionistaNY]

More Info:

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium hydroxide is the strongest of the three relaxers and will provide the most dramatic results. Sodium hydroxide is a caustic type of chemical that actually softens hair fibers. The chemical also causes the hair to swell at the same time. As the sodium hydroxide solution is applied to the hair, it penetrates into the cortical layer and breaks the cross-bonds.

The cortical layer is actually the middle or inner layer of the hair shaft that provides the strength, elasticity and shape of the curly hair.

Depending on various factors and the condition of the hair to be straightened, the strength of the sodium hydroxide solution may vary anywhere from 5 to 10 percent. The pH faction may vary from 10 to 14. The higher the strength of sodium hydroxide, the higher the pH and the faster the straightening solution will take hold.

Also, the stronger the solution, the more potential damage can occur to the hair. Sodium hydroxide contains a high alkaline content and so special care should always be used when applying this chemical.



Guanidine Hydroxide

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are referred to as the "no-lye" relaxers and they tend to be less damaging than sodium hydroxide relaxers. These products, however, still may do some damage to the hair. It can definitely de-fat the scalp.

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers usually require conditioning treatments before and after. These relaxers are a mixture of calcium hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate "activator" solution.



Ammonium Thioglycolate

Ammonium thioglycolate (nicknamed "thio relaxer") is much less drastic in its action than the sodium hydroxide and even, in some cases, the guanidine hydroxide. It acts a little differently by softening and relaxing overly curly hair through changes to the hair's cystine linkage.

Thio works on the same formulation principles as thioglycolate permanent waves. With a pH of 9-9.5, these are also considered to be less damaging, yet still require a neutralization step. Thioglycolate relaxers are usually in cream or gel form and can be preceded by a pre-softener.

Since thio relaxers are considered much milder, the risk of hair damage is also reduced by comparison to the sodium hydroxide.

 

[missvi]

Thanks for the info!

 

[divinefavor]

Great info!

 

[Mestiza]

Very interesting!

 

[Sweetyb]

This info is really helpful.

So in Affirm's case, their Original, Control, and Fiberguard formulas are "lye", since they contain Sodium Hydroxide, and their Sensitive Scalp line are "no-lye" because they contain Guanidine Hydroxide.

I'm finally getting this!