How is coconut oil different from palm oil?

[MileHighDiva]

LZ says…I was wondering if you could explain the difference between coconut, palm and palm kernel oils. Are they exactly the same thing? Does coconut oil penetrate the hair shaft because it’s made up of “medium chain fatty acids?” and are there any other oils with similar properties? What about oils like argan, olive, avocado, jojoba? And what about shea butter? Do they offer any meaningful benefits?

The Beauty Brains respond:

We’ve blogged before about coconut oil. Here’s how it’s different from palm oil:

Coconut and palm oil come from different kinds of palm trees
Coconut oil and palm oil are very closely related. Coconut oil comes from the coconut palm tree (Cocos nucifera) while Palm oil comes from the oil palm tree (elaeis guineensis). Both types of trees belong to the general class known as “palm.” The oil expressed from the respective nuts of these trees (actually they’re considered to be fruits) are similar but with some important differences. Coconut oil is composed primarily of lauric acid with some capric and caprylic acids. The carbon chain lengths of these acids are 12, 10, and 8, respectively. Palm oil, on the other hand, is composed primarily of a mixture of palmitic acid (42%) and oleic acid (38%). Carbon chain lengths for Palmitic acid and Oleic acid are 16 and 18 respectively. What does all this mean? The shorter carbon chain length of coconut oil helps explain why it penetrates hair. (See next question.)Palm kernel oil also comes from the palm tree but is a different fraction. Its chemical composition is sort of half-way between coconut oil and palm oil.

Coconut oil is the right size and shape to penetrate, palm is not

Researchers believe that coconut oil is able to penetrate hair because of the size and shape of the molecule. As discussed above, it has a “medium chain” of 12 carbon atoms but the size of the molecule is only part of the puzzle. The shape of the molecule is also important. Coconut oil is highly saturated which means the carbon atoms are “filled up” with hydrogen atoms. In addition, the molecule is a straight chain with no branching. Palm oil is unsaturated (not all the carbons are “filled up” and the molecule is branched.) This difference in configuration allows the coconut oil molecules to slip in between the intercellular spaces in the hair’s cuticle layer so it can penetrate into the cortex. Palm oil (and most other oils) do not have this ability. While we’ve never seen the research, if we had to guess we’d say that palm kernel oil stands the best chance of penetrating like coconut oil does.

Other oils work well on the surface of hair

None of the other oils you asked about penetrate like coconut oil but all of them can help lubricate hair. However since they do not penetrate they need to be used in a leave on product like a hairdressing. When delivered from a conditioner or other rinse off product they will simply go down the drain.

References:

http://www.dutchplantin.com/en/news/coconut-palm-trees-versus-oil-palm-trees/

Brazilian oils and butters: The effect of different fatty acid chain composition on human hair physiochemical properties J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 273–280 (March/April 2009)

Source

I thought that aragan, avocado, and olive oil penetrated the hair strand, also.
Just not as well as EVCO. I wonder if they know they're creating confusion with this particular post?

 

[MilkChocolateOne]

Palm performs better on my hair. It leaves my hair soft, shiney and pliable. I love palm oil as a prepoo, sealant and lubricant. I love palm oil. Coconut oil makes my hair hard and stiff. I can use coconut oil mixed with other oils or in a product but never by itself.

 

[overtherainbow]

I have a love/hate relationship with palm oil. It's in a lot of my staples, but the harvesting of palm oil is too unethical and too detrimental to our eco system for me to support . But on the other hand, its unavoidable as its in virtually every mass produced hair product. My hair also loves it :/

 

[Amarilles]

I don't think EVOO and avocado oil have ever been tested for this purpose like coconut oil has. The Natural Haven has cited an article saying that the two do penetrate, but then in other articles she says that it was suggested that EVOO penetrates, never actually proven, similarly to how Beauty Brains here are suggesting that palm kernel oil also penetrates (but it's not been researched). The only one that has been researched for this purpose is coconut oil I believe.

 

[Holla]

I have a love/hate relationship with palm oil. It's in a lot of my staples, but the harvesting of palm oil is too unethical and too detrimental to our eco system for me to support . But on the other hand, its unavoidable as its in virtually every mass produced hair product. My hair also loves it :/

Really??? It is a staple in West African diet so I am surprised that millions have used it for years without a thought to what you said. It's sold in African stores near me in different size bottles and cheap too. I thought about buying it just for my hair. The bottles don't come small enough though.

 

[Ogoma]

^^^ how would you use those on your hair? If it gets on your clothes, it will leave a permanent stain. I have always assumed the ones sold for hair are extracted differently to remove the color. Now, I am curious to know which version is being used on hair.

 

[beingofserenity]

I used to used the red palm oil (unrefined) on my hair.

 

[Holla]

^^^ how would you use those on your hair? If it gets on your clothes, it will leave a permanent stain. I have always assumed the ones sold for hair are extracted differently to remove the color. Now, I am curious to know which version is being used on hair.

I would mix it with my conditioner. Yes, No? I didn't plan to seal with it or anything like that. It's too greasy and runny.

I didn't think two different versions were used for hair and cooking.

ETA: The ones I see on the African shelves look very homemade-ish. Like someone bottled it in their kitchen using recycled plastic bottles.

 

[Ogoma]

I have always wondered about using the cooking version on hair. If it gets on clothes, it is hard to get out.

I found this link and it seems the ones for hair/body/product have been refined, bleached, and deodorized.

http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=OILPALM

 

[overtherainbow]

Holla Its okay to harvest it locally in small amounts, but because its used in so many foods/products worldwide, high demand has caused harvesters to turn to unethical practices (child labor, unfair wages, destroying entire ecosystems/rain forests) just to meet the need.

 

[krissyhair]

Here is more about how the unethical practices in the production of palm oil are bad for the environment. These are the effects on one animal alone.

http://www.orangutan.org.au/palm-oil

 

[bhndbrwneyes]

I've read that coconut, olive and avocado are the only oils to penetrate the hair shaft. Cannot recall source so don't quote me.

 

[yaya24]

I used to used the red palm oil (unrefined) on my hair.

I still use red palm oil oil in my DC mix

 

[NaiyaAi]

Palm oil and palm kernel oil are from different parts of the same plant. One is made from the fruit, and one is made from the seed.

Has anyone used both? How do they compare?

 

[Saludable84]

Palm oil and palm kernel oil are from different parts of the same plant. One is made from the fruit, and one is made from the seed. Has anyone used both? How do they compare?

I've used both. I have LP hair and my hair is very funny with coconut oil (who am I kidding, it doesn't like it) but my hair loves anything with palm oil because its super moisturizing. Palm oil is fattier and thicker in texture so it is excellent for anyone with dry hair.