Part II of article:
The ABCs of Application
Whether you wear a perm, locks, braids, or an Afro, the same simple steps apply for a thorough hot-oil treatment:
1. Place oil in heat-resistant plastic container, then place container in large bowl of hot water (think nice-warm-shower hot, not just-boiled-on-the-stove temperatures).
2. Part dry hair into four sections and secure with hair bands.
3. Starting with one section, further divide into quarters. With fingers, apply oil to scalp.
4. Distribute oil through hair.
5. Move on to next section.
6. Cover hair with old shower cap (remember, it will be covered in oil) and then wrap towel around your head.
7. Leave on for minimum of 15 minutes and no longer than 1 hour, depending on how dry or damaged your hair is. Women with locks should keep oil in for full hour to allow oil to penetrate completely.
8. To rinse, put shampoo directly onto hair and work into lather (do not wet hair first). Rinse and continue your normal routine.
The Perfect Formula
As any walk down the aisle of a drugstore or beauty-supply store will confirm, there are an overwhelming number of hot-oil treatments from which to choose. If you buy commercially available hot-oil treatments, "always read the ingredients," advises Smalls. Perfumes and alcohol, as well as harsh ingredients that can irritate the scalp, may do more harm than good. Because of this potential damage, many women make their own formulas.
Whether you decide to buy off the shelf or whip up your own concoction, look for these ingredients:
1. Base (carrier) oils that can be used alone or in combination with others:
* Jojoba: A great conditioner for Black textured hair, jojoba is also good for a dry scalp.
* Sweet almond: This easily absorbed balm for itchy scalps contains vitamin E and fatty acids.
* Avocado: The oil of this fatty fruit is rich in vitamins A, D, and E; potassium; and scalp-soothing sulfur.
2. Essential oils that should be added to the base oil:
* Sage: An astringent that stimulates growth and kills bacteria.
* Rosemary: Stimulates growth and gives hair shine; also helpful with dandruff.
* Evening primrose: Moisturizes and conditions hair.
* Calendula: Excellent for soothing and nourishing the scalp.
* Tea tree: In very small amounts, very useful for stimulating the scalp and alleviating dandruff.
Our Favorites
Here are three hot-oil treatments that we especially love:
* Phytotherathrie Huile d'Ales Revitalizing Botanical Oil is 100 percent natural with essential oils of rosemary, sage, and juniper (Sephora stores nationwide; $24).
* Weleda Rosemary Oil contains clover blossoms and burdock root (Sephora stores nationwide; $8.75).
* Paul Labrecque Lemongrass Oil with coconut and jojoba oils is also great for scalp massages (set of five 1-ounce bottles, $45).
Do you have your own favorite hot-oil-treatment recipe? Share it with us.
Our Expert's Favorite Hot-Oil Treatment
Philadelphia hairstylist Yvette Smalls shared with us her favorite recipe for healthy, shiny hair:
Mix equal parts jojoba, olive, grape-seed, avocado, and walnut oils. Add a small amount of aloe vera gel, a natural humectant (if you are allergic to aloe vera, substitute glycerin).
Finally, if desired, put in a few drops of scented essential oil for fragrance. Smalls recommends adding castor oil if hair is thinning.
To apply, follow the directions provided in the main article. Enjoy!