Hair Porosity & pH Levels (Long)

[LaNecia]

All these threads about Porosity Control and hair porosity got me to looking around the net...here's some info I hope is useful to some, it definitely helped me!!

First things first: porous hair = quickly drying hair. This one took me a while to understand but I got it now!!

I had to go check some information before I posted cause I had some questions...now I'm set.

On Jazma's website there is a question posted re: Scalp irritation. In the answer, the subject of neutralizing is brought up...here's what Asha Wrote: With traditional hydroxide based relaxers "neutralization" is brought about by a change of pH in the chemical not through an oxidative re-bonding process as with a thio perm. So when you use a neutralizing shampoo to "neutralize" the relaxer you are not truly "neutralizing" the sodium hydroxide (or any other hydroxide). What you are really doing is using the shampoo, typically a low pH formulated shampoo to help the process along, along with the water to severely dilute - therefore reducing the pH - and remove the relaxer from your hair.

If any small trace amounts of relaxer are left trapped in your hair follicle that are missed in the shampooing process or have just penetrated too deep to have been properly removed, residual chemical action from these trace amounts will now take place. As I just mentioned hydroxides are "neutralized" from a change in pH. So to stop working these trace amounts will continue to break down organic material (i.e.: your root follicle and attending area) until mixed with enough of this dissolved material for a change in pH to occur to it, hence stopping the trace amounts chemical action.

When done repeatedly the risk is run this cellular damage may cause the follicle to produce an inferior hair shaft or may reach a point where it can't produce a viable shaft at all. This in almost all cases takes place over an extended period of time, sometimes many years, what you may end up with is a thinning of the hair for no apparent reason. This process by being very gradual and may be thought as just a part of the aging process by mature women - this may very well be the case in the majority of instances - but for some it was a constant assault on their scalp and follicles by improper relaxing techniques that brought this result about.

Let's examine ph levels...

Water = pH 7.0
Motions Neutralizing Shampoo = pH 4.4 to 5.5
Vitale Neutralizing Shampoo = pH 6.2
Porosity Control = pH 4.5
QP Elasta Stop Action Neutralizing Shampoo = pH 5.5
Affirm Positive Link Conditioner (for use immediately after relaxer): pH of 4.5 - 5.5
Nexxus Emergencee = Acidifies hair, pH 2.5
Nexxus Ensure = Acidifies hair, pH 3.0

And finally, taken from Verticals in Hair

pH, what does it mean to you?

pH refers to whether a product is alkaline or acidic and is as important to a hairstylist as Rx is to a doctor or pharmacist. The scale ranges from 0.0 having the highest concentration of acid, to 14.0 having the least. Pure water is at the middle of the pH scale and has equal parts of acidity and alkalinity. So it is neutral. The hair itself has no pH since it is solid, but the protective mantle of the hair has a pH that ranges from 4.5 to 5.5 on the scale.

Anything that you apply to the hair that is below 4.5 will act as an acid; it will harden, constrict and shrink the hair. Anything that you apply to the hair above 5.5 will act as an alkali; soften, swell and expand the hair and change the interior. Therefore, always ensure that the protective pH 4.5 to 5.5 has been returned.

The measurement of pH is very important because the largest external organs on the human body, the skin, hair and nails are mildly acidic. Human hair is at its greatest strength, lustre and flexibility when the average acid mantle is between pH 4.5 to 5.5. Likewise, our skin is softer and more resilient when it falls within a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5.

Scientifically formulated shampoos, conditioners and treatments, can give hair the beautiful shine, body and resilience of healthy hair, and dramatically improve its outer appearance. Look for hair care products that are acid balanced. Redken hair care products are formulated with a mildly acidic pH of 4.5 to 5.5 to be compatible with the acid mantle of hair and skin. Your knowledge of pH will enable you to select products that will leave your hair and skin in as natural and healthy environment as possible.

The term alkaline refers to the ammonium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide (lye) present in a product. Its purpose is to raise the pH of a product so the chemical reaction will process rapidly. Because of its alkalinity it tends to strip the hair and scalp from its natural oils, this could be drying or even irritating to your hair and skin. Alkali is found in soaps, most shampoos, and in general household cleaners.

It is important to remember that pH is logarithmic; each number multiplies itself by ten (x10). Example: pH 8 is ten (10x) times more alkali than pH 7. pH 14 is ten million (x10,000,000) times more alkali than pH 7. On the acidic side of the scale, pH 6 is ten (x10) times more acidic than pH 7.


Hope that helps someone and isn't redundant info!

LaNecia

 

[Ashee]

Thank you SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH LaNecia!!!!!!! :notworthy

 

[brickhouse]

Thanks for the info Lanecia but I was under the impression that porous hair too longer to dry because it holds in moisture.

 

[A_Christian]

This information has been extremeley useful for me, Thanks for posting it LaNecia!

 

[LaNecia]

Thanks for the info Lanecia but I was under the impression that porous hair too longer to dry because it holds in moisture.

I understand and was of the same impression until I did some research:

Curly Hair Solutions "Fine hair is quite porous (the ability to absorb water) but does not hold it long (it dries fast). This must be taken into account for all chemical processes. "

Everything I've read indicates that porous hair can be frizzy and is most often dry and has a high incidence of split ends. It dries quickly because the cuticle layers are not closed so as easily as water goes in, it goes back out. This hair will also frizz at a moments notice when moisture is introduced in the atmosphere w/out an anti-humectant to act as a 'block' against the external moisture. This is because it's sucking up whatever moisture it can find, wherever it can get it!

Pantene's website PG.comhas some good info about this. Porosity

In a normal, undamaged hair shaft, very little water can get either into or out of the cortex. This is because the cuticle covering the cortex is intact, and is then almost (but not quite) waterproof. Shampoos do not damage the
cuticle. When hair is permed or tinted, however, the chemicals have to penetrate the cortex in order to react with the keratin inside it. Increasing the temperature, or applying an alkaline lotion, separates the scales of the cuticle enough to allow the chemicals to pass through. After the processing is finished the scales gradually close up again.

But if hair is processed too many times the cuticle scales may never return to their original tightness and the protection they once offered is lost. The cuticle can also be damaged in the same way by too much blow drying, curling irons that are too hot, and the effects of wind and sun. The hair becomes increasingly porous, and water can then pass in and out of the cortex.

Over-porous hair is dry, and tends to develop split ends. The damaged cuticle is fragile, and the damage worsens as time goes by. The greater the damage, the more the cortex swells with water whenever the hair is washed, but the more water it loses when it dries. The repeated wetting and drying of the cortex gradually weakens the hair.

Now that I know what the problem is, I know how to fight it!

 

[LaNecia]

Think about it, don't you WANT your hair to hold in water and not release? The more it releases it's internal moisture, the more dry and damaged the hair will become. When it's porous, it's releasing it's internal moisture...that's a bad thing!

It makes sense to me.... maybe I'm missing something and interpreting this backwards....

Anyone?

 

[Ashee]

Think about it, don't you WANT your hair to hold in water and not release? The more it releases it's internal moisture, the more dry and damaged the hair will become. When it's porous, it's releasing it's internal moisture...that's a bad thing!

It makes sense to me.... maybe I'm missing something and interpreting this backwards....

Anyone?

I've read things similar to this and others going in the opposite direction...
But it makes sense that a product would be trying to have the hair behave the way described in this thread... :scratchch

 

[brickhouse]

It makes sense to me as well. That's why I went out and got me some porosity control. Thanks for sharing the info. That is probably why my hair dry frizzy.

 

[LaNecia]

I used the PC immediately following a texturizer correction and it make a WORLD of difference. My hair has stayed very moisturized. Now, I just have to modify my regimen to include regular treatments w/out over doing it....

 

[AngelicRose07]

GREAT ARTICLE!!!!!!!!! thanks

 

[Ashee]

I tried the Moisturizing Con with the Porosity but no heat was added...
It was great... I left the mixture in my hair for about 5 minutes with a plastic cap... My hair felt really soft...
Cool idea!!
I did my second CW and it was MUCH BETTER than the first attempt!! You all are great!!

 

[Poohbear]

Very informative and very helpful!

 

[Belle Du Jour]

Wow, thanks for clearing this up for me. My hair dries frighteningly fast, and in my heart, I didn't think it was normal. . .Now, I know that this property of my hair contributes to why my hair is struggling to retain length.

Not only does my hair grown only .25-.5 inches a month, but I have fine AND porous strands. I will be picking up that porosity control this weekend.

Since porous hair loses moisture easily, are frequent washings problemmatic? Or should you just follow up with an acidifier after each wash to seal the cuticle?

 

[Belle Du Jour]

One more question: if you use the PC to seal the cuticle after you wash, can your moisturizer i.e. shea butter or an oil get in to moisturize your hair? Or does the PC only close the cuticle more than it normally would be to prevent internal moisture loss, but still allow some moisture in?

 

[LaNecia]

Classi,

I'm not an expert in this area but let me tell you what I understood from what I read yesterday:

The pH Level of the PC (pH 4.5) works to take the hairs porosity back to it's ideal range 4.5 - 5.5.

IRT to moisture penetration after using the PC: In hairs natural state, the cuticles lie flat allowing moisture to pass in and out of the hair however, it not nearly as easily done as it is after the hairs structure has been altered. So if you use a moisturizer afterwards, yes, it will still penetrate the cuticle though not necessarily as easily. Because of this, I would use the PC AFTER a good moisturizing treatment, so help seal in the moisture. Also, with moisturizers, it's going to depend on molecular size as to the ease of penetration. The smaller the molecules, the better the penetration. Ever notice that most of the conditioners that are used at a salon are lighter in weight/consistency? :scratchch (I'm thinking the ones that we buy at a local are primarily designed to COAT the hair shafts.) Just a thought

I think frequent washings that leave the hair cuticle OPEN are going to be more damaging because the moisture is still seeping back out. Where as, rinsing with cold water, using an ACV rinses, Porosity Control and similar products (which lower the pH balance of the hair) will work to close the cuticles as closely to normal as possible, trapping moisture inside.

I tend to ramble...sorry but I hope that helps.

I'm sure some of the veterans have something to add...."where you at?!"

 

[Belle Du Jour]

Classi,

I'm not an expert in this area but let me tell you what I understood from what I read yesterday:

The pH Level of the PC (pH 4.5) works to take the hairs porosity back to it's ideal range 4.5 - 5.5.

IRT to moisture penetration after using the PC: In hairs natural state, the cuticles lie flat allowing moisture to pass in and out of the hair however, it not nearly as easily done as it is after the hairs structure has been altered. So if you use a moisturizer afterwards, yes, it will still penetrate the cuticle though not necessarily as easily. Because of this, I would use the PC AFTER a good moisturizing treatment, so help seal in the moisture. Also, with moisturizers, it's going to depend on molecular size as to the ease of penetration. The smaller the molecules, the better the penetration. Ever notice that most of the conditioners that are used at a salon are lighter in weight/consistency? :scratchch (I'm thinking the ones that we buy at a local are primarily designed to COAT the hair shafts.) Just a thought

I think frequent washings that leave the hair cuticle OPEN are going to be more damaging because the moisture is still seeping back out. Where as, rinsing with cold water, using an ACV rinses, Porosity Control and similar products (which lower the pH balance of the hair) will work to close the cuticles as closely to normal as possible, trapping moisture inside.

I tend to ramble...sorry but I hope that helps.

I'm sure some of the veterans have something to add...."where you at?!"

Thanks girl! This thread really just opened my eyes as to why my hair growth has stalled.

I'm going to try using low pH products and see if it makes a difference.
I'll use the PC last on wash days (deep conditioning before), use Emergencee as my heavy protein, and mix lemon juice in all of my conditioner wash conditioners to combat the opening of the cuticles.

Now, what you said about molecular size is something to consider.

 

[Tene]

Thanks for the info.

 

[LaNecia]

You ladies are most welcome!

 

[LadyPBC]

bumping bumping bumping!!!

 

[divachyk]

Mix lemon juice in all of my conditioner wash conditioners to combat the opening of the cuticles.

How much lemon juice and why does this prevent cuticles from opening when cowashing?

How often should a relaxed head used PC? BTW, I get my touch-ups done at the salon if that makes any difference.

 

[cocoagirl]

I understand and was of the same impression until I did some research:

Curly Hair Solutions "Fine hair is quite porous (the ability to absorb water) but does not hold it long (it dries fast). This must be taken into account for all chemical processes. "

Ok so I am confused again. My hair floats during the water test and dries in a snap after washing/condish..the above says that indicates high porosity but I thought that floating was indicative of low porosity?

 

[ReignLocks]

VERY good read!!!!!!!

 

[nymane]

Bumping a great thread for chemically treated heads.....