Hair Biology - Ethnic Differences 101

OnlyChild

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Ethnic differences

Each individual is unique and hair production rate, size, and shape differs for everyone but in general there are some differences in the nature of hair fiber for people of different ethnic backgrounds.

Asian hair is on average the thickest and most coarse hair compared to Caucasian and African American hair. It is almost always straight and circular in cross section. The density of Asian hair on the scalp (follicles per unit area of skin) is less than that typically observed in Caucasians The density of hair follicles in African Americans is also lower than for Caucasians on average. At the lowest end of the spectrum the density of Asian may be just 90,000 scalp follicles and rarely gets above 120,000 scalp follicles.

Caucasian hair can be quite variable in its presentation with straight, wavy or curly hair. The fiber can be circular or oval in cross section and is on average thinner than Asian hair. Hair follicle density varies and density can be approximately related to hair color. Red haired people have the least dense scalp hair growth of Caucasians, blonds the most dense and brown haired people somewhere in the middle. Denstiy can range from 100,000-150,000 scalp hair follicles

African American hair is frequently tightly coiled, or spiral hair. In cross section it is elliptical or almost flat and ribbon-like in some cases. This means that there is more strength and rigidity to the fiber across the area of greatest cross section but the hair is much more pliable across the narrow section. This results in the curls of hair all naturally flexing and coiling along the ribbon. There is little or no coiling from side to side. The sclap hair density is pretty much the same as that seen in Caucasians.

Different hair fiber types are produced by different hair follicles. Large straight hair follicles with a circular cross section produce thick straight hair. Curly flat hair follicles make curly elliptical or ribbon shaped cross section hair. Most African Americans have very curly, flattened hair follicles in their skin that produce the highly coiled hair. Some research suggests that the hair follicles are actually spiral/spring shaped if you were able to look down the length of these hair follicles.

The shape of the hair follicle acts as a mold for the creation of the hair fiber. Deep in the hair follicle, where cells are added to the fiber at the root, the hair is soft and pliable. The cells of the fiber take the shape of the surrounding hair follicle sheath. As the cells are squashed together and keratinized, the chemical bonds form and hold the hair fiber into the shape of the hair follicle. Hence curly hair follicles make curly hair fibers. Don't ask what makes curly hair follicles because we don't know. There might also be racial differences in the chemical composition of the fiber. African American hair has a greater amount of low sulfur protein compared to high sulfur protein than observed in Asian or Caucasian individuals.

If anything, African American hair follicles produce more oils and sebum than follicles in other races, but the oils are not evenly distributed along the length of the hair fiber because of its coiled shape. The hair fiber is typically very dry and it seems to weather more rapidly with cuticle flaking and deterioration. Consequently African Americans are more likely to need hair oils to supplement their natural oil production and help keep the hair fiber flexible. In addition, tight spiral hair is difficult to brush and comb. Using oils helps reduce the friction and static from combing and make the hair more manageable. African Americans often find they need to use specially formulated oils and shampoos. African American hair responds differently than Caucasian hair and preferred grooming products contain humectants and mild cleansing agents while avoiding harsh plant oils or harsh detergents such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

Here's the link to the article if anyone is interested in checking out the rest of the site:
http://www.keratin.com/aa/aa002.shtml
 
This is an interesting article. With me being Korean/African American, I guess that's why my hair grows in really thick. I have more of a AA hair texture though...
 
Very interesting
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Zanna
 
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The hair fiber is typically very dry and it seems to weather more rapidly with cuticle flaking and deterioration.

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Thanks for the info OnlyChild. Now I'm wondering. I've read plenty where relaxers are supposed to corrode the hairfibers. Now I'm reading in regards to natural hair, that weather deteriorates the fibers because of the unique pattern of Afro-textured hair, and the sebum oil not reaching the entirety of the strands length. It appears no matter what we do, whether we relax or go natural, this phenomena is going to take place unless we moisture on a continual basis. I think as long as we keep our hair moisturized as the article suggests, we will be alright.
 
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