Calling Mixologist

[amwcah]

I want to make my own UBH Moisturizer since the prices have increased and the formula changed. What I really liked about it is that it was fragrance free and non-greasy. It is hard to find a moisturizer that is fragrance free. All the other store bought moisturizers I have used have some type of fragance and I have just been tolerating it. However, they haven't been helping my eczema one bit.

I found the old formula by doing a search. Here they are:

Purified Water, Olive Oil, 1-Octadecano, Cetrimonium Bromide, di-Panthenol, Allantoin, Lecithin, Dimethicon Copolyol, Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylparaben, Retinol and Tocopherol.

How would I go about making this? Water, olive oil, check...what is this other stuff and how relevant is it?

 

[amwcah]

Now, I know you'll are mixing up things! Please share or point me in the right direction.

 

[SummerSolstice]

I want to make my own UBH Moisturizer since the prices have increased and the formula changed. What I really liked about it is that it was fragrance free and non-greasy. It is hard to find a moisturizer that is fragrance free. All the other store bought moisturizers I have used have some type of fragance and I have just been tolerating it. However, they haven't been helping my eczema one bit.

I found the old formula by doing a search. Here they are:

Purified Water, Olive Oil, 1-Octadecano, Cetrimonium Bromide, di-Panthenol, Allantoin, Lecithin, Dimethicon Copolyol, Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylparaben, Retinol and Tocopherol.

How would I go about making this? Water, olive oil, check...what is this other stuff and how relevant is it?

Not a fan of the parabens.
Cetrimonium Bromide is an antiseptic...
thats all i got.
Tocopherol is good. lots of vit. e

 

[amwcah]

Not a fan of the parabens.
Cetrimonium Bromide is an antiseptic...
thats all i got.
Tocopherol is good. lots of vit. e

SummerSolstice

Thank you for responding! So, I can just add some vitamin e to my mix.(?)

 

[SummerSolstice]

@SummerSolstice

Thank you for responding! So, I can just add some vitamin e to my mix.(?)

actually if you google tocopherol you can purchase some.
as far as a natural antiseptic, i would go with grapefruit seed oil, but its obviously not as potent as synthetic ones.
did you want this to be a cream? that will be hard to accomplish without an emulsifier... water and oil need an emulsifier to mix.

 

[Seamonster]

I want to make my own UBH Moisturizer since the prices have increased and the formula changed. What I really liked about it is that it was fragrance free and non-greasy. It is hard to find a moisturizer that is fragrance free. All the other store bought moisturizers I have used have some type of fragance and I have just been tolerating it. However, they haven't been helping my eczema one bit.

I found the old formula by doing a search. Here they are:

Purified Water, Olive Oil, 1-Octadecano, Cetrimonium Bromide, di-Panthenol, Allantoin, Lecithin, Dimethicon Copolyol, Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylparaben, Retinol and Tocopherol.

How would I go about making this? Water, olive oil, check...what is this other stuff and how relevant is it?

I like the ingredients I bolded in green because they are herb and vitamin based. Think Dimethicon is a cone, so that would give it a good slip. The parabens are used as your preservative. Hope someone chimes in on how to mix it, I would try it myself.

 

[amwcah]

actually if you google tocopherol you can purchase some.
as far as a natural antiseptic, i would go with grapefruit seed oil, but its obviously not as potent as synthetic ones.
did you want this to be a cream? that will be hard to accomplish without an emulsifier... water and oil need an emulsifier to mix.

Ok, I will research that.

 

[amwcah]

SummerSolstice


Can I use this emulsifier?

http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/chefn-salad-dressing-emulsifier/

 

[SummerSolstice]

sorry i can't see that link at work. I will have to check it out when i get home.

 

[Tiye]

@SummerSolstice


Can I use this emulsifier?

http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/chefn-salad-dressing-emulsifier/

That's something to shake your salad dressing in. It won't hold your product in solution. You need an emusifying ingredient. The easiest one to use is beeswax but there are others. You can find them on e.g. from nature with love or camden grey.

To short cut it I would take a little basic, lightweight conditioner plus some aloe gel (you can get the kind with allantoin in it in a health food store), then add a little olive oil, i.e. just a teaspoon or two. Add the water slowly until you get the consistency that matches the product you have now. The emulsifying ingredients in your conditioner should hold your product together. If you have to shake it sometimes that's okay for a homemade/home use product.

Forgot to add this ingredient is also an emulsifier - Lecithin

 

[southerncitygirl]

amwcah

i would recommend the following preservatives:

optiphen
Cosmocil CQ
Leucidal
potassium sorbate
geoguard ultra

you can get liquid lecithin from the healthfood store, its the emulsifier in this conditioner. contrary to popular belief waxes are not needed to emulsify oil and water, there are multiple options. you can't just blend things together without binding them cause they will separate which is why the lecithin is being used.

gardenofwisdom (.com) has a free forum and the owner is great she has a section to make your own products and understands the importance of ph when creating products. she will also explain the percentages of preservatives and such you should add and why. tell her you want to make a more natural knockoff of this recipe and give her the ingredients,

 

[JeterCrazed]

Purified Water, Olive Oil, 1-Octadecano, Cetrimonium Bromide, di-Panthenol, Allantoin, Lecithin, Dimethicon Copolyol, Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylparaben, Retinol and Tocopherol.

How would I go about making this? Water, olive oil, check...what is this other stuff and how relevant is it?

Lecithin (emulsifier) you can get at Vitamin Shoppe, Whole Foods, or any other health food store. Bob's Red Mill brand. Costs about $8/ lb

Retinol (Vitamin A)

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Allantoin (Skin protectant and healer) You can get this online from The Personal Formulator. I have extra if you want some. Their shipping costs are ridiculous.

Parabens (preservatives) I would substitute.

Panthenol (Vitamin B)

Dimethicon Copolyol (Dimethicone, a Silicone) Not really that important. I'd skip it.

Octadecano (octadecanoic acid) They're just tryna be cute. It's stearic acid- a fatty acid. You can sub with Shea and coconut oils if you want to shortcut.

Centrimonium bromide (antifungal) no idea where to get this.

Diazolidinyl Urea (preservative) I don't like this one. It releases formaldehyde.

I would find a preservative that is not a paraben and does not release formaldehyde. You're not gonna have this concoction sitting around for 3 years- the cosmetic industry standard. Like SummerSolstice said, grapefruit seed extract aught to do.

Water, Olive Oil, Lecithin, Shea, Coconut Oil, Allantoin, Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin E, Dimethicone, Grapefruit Seed Extract.

Done.

Sent from my Inspire HD using LHCF

 

[Pompous Blue]

actually if you google tocopherol you can purchase some.
as far as a natural antiseptic, i would go with grapefruit seed oil, but its obviously not as potent as synthetic ones.
did you want this to be a cream? that will be hard to accomplish without an emulsifier... water and oil need an emulsifier to mix.

Ok, I will research that.

amwcah
I bought some liquid lecithin from mountainroseherbs.com. It is a good emulsifier. Here's what the site says about it.

A revolutionary process which does not utilize solvent or alcohol extraction has now awarded us with certified organic liquid lecithin. A special medium for both dietary and cosmetic purposes, this lecithin acts as an emulsifier and thickening agent for body care products and improves a products shelf life by acting as a mild preservative. Because of its liquid nature, it may be seamlessly blended into cosmetic creations, thus removing blending barriers commonly found in both granules and powder.

Also, there's powdered lecithin:

Cosmetic Use

Lecithin powder is an emollient, which is a softening and soothing agent. In addition, it has magnificent moisturizing properties, and helps to hydrate the skin. The phospholipids naturally present in lecithin are able to attract water from the air, and in doing so, increase hydration. This makes it an excellent additive for restorative creams, or for products designed for mature, dry, or overworked skin. It also has the unique ability to deeply penetrate the skin, and carry substances directly to the cells and the bloodstream. Because of this, it may assist the body in absorbing other properties as well. If a product is created with natural and healing ingredients, then the addition of lecithin would actually bring those beneficial properties to the cellular level. Lecithin also has emulsifying, stabilizing, thickening, and suspending qualities. With these amazing and varied capabilities, the addition of lecithin could assist in the therapeutic and medicinal properties of your body care products. Lecithin powder may be easily added to your products by first dissolving it into the oil portion of your recipe. To do this, heat the mixture while stirring, until the granules have been fully dissolved. The amount of lecithin used depends upon the recipe type and size, and on the product thickness desired. However, a general rule is 1/2-1 Tablespoon for a 19 oz batch of cream. We recommend experimenting with the amount in small batches.

 

[Pompous Blue]

Also, @amwcah while you're at the health food store, pick up some slippery elm bark to add to your formula. It will help soothe your scalp from the eczema.

And, like you, I try to steer away from highly scented products. They've been know to tear up my scalp since I suffer from eczema, too.

 

[amwcah]

Thank you ladies for your replies! I wasn't pleasantly surprised to see that there were more post.

I went to the health food store before seeing all the new post. It was my intention to purchase some items, but I left undecided. After reading through this thread later this evening, I realized I actually had some lecithin in my kitchen cabinet. So here is what I did.

I took a Carrot Oil container I was storing bobby pins in and filled it with 1/4c of EVOO and 1 tbsp of lecithin. I used one beater in my handheld mixer and began mixing the ingredients. I slowly added 3/8c of water. I ended up with a nice pale, yellow tinted creamy moisturizer. I immediately applied it to my hair, and it left my hair feeling moisturized without a greasy feel.

For my next batch, I will be adding the Vitamins A, B, and E after I purchase them. This will save me so much money in the long run. Thank you once again!

 

[amwcah]

Also, @amwcah while you're at the health food store, pick up some slippery elm bark to add to your formula. It will help soothe your scalp from the eczema.

And, like you, I try to steer away from highly scented products. They've been know to tear up my scalp since I suffer from eczema, too.

Pompous Blue

Thank God that I don't have eczema in my scalp. My hands get irritated when I apply products to my hair.

 

[JeterCrazed]

Note, OP:
When working with hard fats, you must heat them to a liquid before emulsifying. Here are the steps:

Heat water
Heat fats
Add emulsifyer to fats
Add water to emulsion
Add non-temperature sensitive additives

Cool to room temp

Add temperate sensitive additives

Sent from my Inspire HD using LHCF

 

[amwcah]

JeterCrazed

How much of the liquid vitamins should I add? 1 drop? 2 drops?... Also, at what stage do I add those? No heating for the vits, correct?

 

[JeterCrazed]

JeterCrazed

How much of the liquid vitamins should I add? 1 drop? 2 drops?... Also, at what stage do I add those? No heating for the vits, correct?

Correct.

I would add 5% of each. It's your concoction. No reason to skimp. Take advantage of making your own.
ETA: I would do 1% for Vitamin A. More is not more.

Sent from my Inspire HD using LHCF

 

[My Friend]

I think you need some glycerin.

 

[blackindia07]

JeterCrazed since you seem to be the resident mixologist I have a question for you. (Sorry OP Im jackin yo thread! LOL I couldnt find the highjack smiley)

I would like to step up my prepoo which right now consists of avocado, coconut milk, honey, eevo, jojoba, coconut, sweet almond and castor oil.

I researched Lecithin and found a lot of moisturizing recipes online that called for it. But frIm what I just read it really has no moisturizing properties to it...it just pretty much a base... Is that correct?

 

[DarkJoy]

bump...

I'm fascinated and learning lots! Adding lecithin to my next WF run...

 

[JeterCrazed]

@JeterCrazed since you seem to be the resident mixologist I have a question for you. (Sorry OP Im jackin yo thread! LOL I couldnt find the highjack smiley)

I would like to step up my prepoo which right now consists of avocado, coconut milk, honey, eevo, jojoba, coconut, sweet almond and castor oil.

I researched Lecithin and found a lot of moisturizing recipes online that called for it. But frIm what I just read it really has no moisturizing properties to it...it just pretty much a base... Is that correct?

It has a miniscule amount of protein, no moisture. It's an emulsifier, not a base.