I do it Dominican style. If you want body, roll under, for tension (straighter roots) roll over. Let me explain. For body, section your hair into five vertical sections. Begin with the middle section and take your first 1 inch section and detangle with a rat tail comb; combing forward and up. Place the roller on your very ends, smooth and roll down; assuring that you roll shorter hairs as you make your way down. Clip with your metal clips on both sides making sure you attach the clips directly to your roots, repeat. I always use the Mohawk method: Do your hair in five sections. Middle section first, outside sections (2), and then inside sections (2). Always be sure to comb your hair up and forward for body (even as you make your way to the back).
For straighter roots, section your hair into five vertical sections. Begin with the middle section and take your first 1-inch section and detangle with a rat tail comb; combing back and up. Place the roller on your very ends, smooth and roll down; assuring that you roll shorter hairs as you make your way down. Clip with your metal clips on both sides making sure you attach the clips directly to your roots, repeat. Continue to follow the Mohawk method.
The difference in the methods is the direction you comb your hair. Combing forward allows you to prepare to roll under for body. Combing back allows you to prepare to roll over for straighter roots and less body. Be sure to comb from root to tip to assure a smooth set and a straighter outcome.
Hope this helps.
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