How do we make our hair more elastic?

ebonylocs

New Member
I saw the articles below in a link Artemis posted in another thread. They just confirm what most of us already know - that our hair is already the most fragile, i.e. the least elastic / most easily broken when pressure is applied. And that relaxing it makes this even worse.

So how do we make our hair more elastic? Apart from those go-to answers of DCing and moisturising, what techniques, products, supplements, etc help? And how do they work? Get tech-y and chemist-y to your heart's content.

"Strong as a hair
Modification of the structure of keratin in an elongated hair before its breaks.

While it is not obvious when handling a single hair, you only need to try to break a small lock to be convinced: hair is extremely strong.
The organisation of keratin within its cortex allows it to resist a strain of up to about a hundred grams. A lock of 100 hairs can thus withstand a weight of 10 kilograms. As to the average head of hair, it could withstand 12 tons, if the scalp were strong enough!

Before breaking, a hair undergoes changes. For example, by delicately handling a reasonably long hair it can easily be shown that it behaves like a piece of elastic; after extending slightly, it returns to its original length.

The use of the extensiometer which progressively stretches a hair at the rate of 1 cm per minute allows precise study of the modifications hair undergoes before it breaks.
Thus, for lengthening of up to 5%, hair is elastic. This is due to the structure of the keratin molecule. Called keratin a in its natural state, stretching arranges it into keratin b. When the stretching stops it returns to its initial form like a spring. Then the hair enters a condition known as flowing where, almost without effort, it can elongate by 25%: keratin a unwinds as keratin b.
Beyond that, keratin b begins to resist. However, in this phase before breaking, the hair can still be elongated and it often breaks only after its length has actually doubled!

Beyond the elastic phase, the hair has another property: at least for a while, it keeps the shape it has been given. Thus, if a hair is wound around a pen and after several hours the pen is removed, the hair retains its curled shape. This is known as the plasticity of hair. In combination with water and heat, this property allows temporary modification of the hair's shaper by using, for example, the technique of blow-drying.

These properties vary greatly depending on the shape of the hair.
Breaking under a strain of 60 grams after an elongation of 40%, African hair seems to be the most fragile. At the other end of the scale, Asian hair is the strongest, withstanding a weight of 100 grams and an elongation of 55%. For either of these features Caucasian hair occupies an intermediate position.
However, by extrapolating these various measurements to equal shapes and surface areas, scientists can show that hair from these three ethnic groups behaves in an intrinsically comparable fashion and can thus confirm a common structure for all the world's hair.

http://www.hair-science.com/_int/_en/topic/topic_sousrub.aspx?tc=ROOT-HAIR-SCIENCE^SO-STURDY-SO-FRAGILE^PROPERTIES-OF-HAIR&cur=PROPERTIES-OF-HAIR

Uncurling:
This technique of reduction and oxidation is also used to uncurl curled or frizzy hair. However, in this case the reducing agent is incorporated into a thick medium, making it easier to hold the hair straight during the period necessary for the reduction process to take place.
As for tightly curled or frizzy hair, they require the use of highly alkaline products such as sodium or potassium hydroxide. In order to protect the scalp, they are formulated in highly greasy creams. However, in contrast with other reduction agents, they will leave the hair weakened, with its elastic properties definitively lost.

http://www.hair-science.com/_int/_en/topic/topic_sousrub.aspx?tc=ROOT-HAIR-SCIENCE%5EINFINITE-TRANSFORMATIONS%5EPLAYING-SHAPES&cur=PLAYING-SHAPES
 
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Ceramides. Ceramides. Ceramides.

Little lipid buddies that are stripped during the relaxing process that can help post-relaxer. I reviewed Matrix's ceramide treatment (one of them) in my salon album. Great for natural hair too. Makes your curls better defined and more apt to bend rather than just break. HTH.
 
Thank you for posting this info.:grin: I'd like to also boost my elasticity. I've applied molasses to my deep conditioners in the past. That has also worked for me but it's good to have various options.:yep:
 
This is very interesting. I'd like to know more about the ceramides. How do I incorporate this with my normal regimen? How does one know when their hair needs a ceramide treatment or a protein one instead?
 
This IMO is why everyone should do a mid protein step if they relax their hair.
I do this. I haven't really had problems with major breakage. However, I still have to be sooo careful with handling my hair (especially the parts that were double processed by a stylist). I would like to be able to not have to be so careful all the time.

Also, how do we increase elasticity in general, relaxed hair aside, because of course, our natural hair has a similar issue, just to a lesser degree.

.. really...
Do you doubt any aspects of the info on the loreal site? Your comment was a bit cryptic.
 
Nonie, Thanks for the link re acidifying.

I cut and paste the relevant portion:

pH's (see H-Bonds)
Let's start with pH. Firstly, dry hair has no pH. Only aqueous solutions have pH's. When hair is in an aqueous solution it normally has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 the skin does too. One of the most beneficial treatments hair can have is to be acidified. pH's of 3.0 to 3.5 will not only close the cuticle but more importantly compact it. This:
1) Adds natural shine - (light reflects off a smooth surface)
2) Detangles - Cuticle layer can not "grab" each other.
3) Adds elasticity - The lower the pH, it higher the positive charge. This in turn brings hydrogen bonds from a beta state (weak) to and alpha state (strong). Hydrogen bonds account for nearly 100% of the hair's elasticity.
4) Locks in moisture and protein - A compacted cuticle will not allow evaporation or dissociation as much as an open cuticle.

Contrary to belief, most shampoos has a pH lower than 7.0 (neutral). The key is to bring the pH down much lower. pH's lower than 3.0 can have adverse effects during prolonged use. Example) lemon juice has a pH of ~2.5.


This interesting. I wonder though, how does this reconcile with the fact that when some people do acidifying treatments, e.g. ACV rinses, they experience brittle hair? Or is that because of a separate drying effect?
 
This interesting. I wonder though, how does this reconcile with the fact that when some people do acidifying treatments, e.g. ACV rinses, they experience brittle hair? Or is that because of a separate drying effect?

The hair gets brittle because they probably use a very strong acidic solution (ie they don't dilute ACV enough). A strong acid breaks down protein in hair.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Hair responds to changes in pH. If a hair is placed in an alkaline solution it swells, and the scales of the cuticle lift. In a slightly acid solution, the scales lie smoothly and the hair is soft. In a strongly acid or alkaline solution, however, the keratin protein starts to break down.

Source: http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_83.htm
[/FONT]
 
Ceramides. Ceramides. Ceramides.

Little lipid buddies that are stripped during the relaxing process that can help post-relaxer. I reviewed Matrix's ceramide treatment (one of them) in my salon album. Great for natural hair too. Makes your curls better defined and more apt to bend rather than just break. HTH.

I agree so much! Im constantly doing elasticity tests on my hair when i deep condition/co wash and ive noticed that ever since ive incorporated ceramide products into my regimen(biolage cera repair, redken, mizani....) my hair has been able to stretch like a rubber band when wet and can withstand tension while its dry so for my hair personally it was the ceramides:yep:
 
So so far we have:

  • protein step before neutralising relaxer (for relaxed heads)
  • Protein + moisture treatments.
  • Acidifying
  • Ceramides
  • Collagen protein (from another thread)
  • molasses
 
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Do you doubt any aspects of the info on the loreal site? Your comment was a bit cryptic.

Was it from the loreal site? I didn't notice. It's just that I have extremely brittle hair. As soon as it dries, I try not to manipulate it at all because it's crumbly. Maybe i'm exagerrating but every year I have to get a SERIOUS trim.

I'm suprised because this is yet another avenue I have to research to help me with my dry/brittle/porous hair. I'm researching other avenues to this solution. I have never tried ceramide technology, but it keeps popping up, so perhaps I should look into it..

Question- is a silk amino acid a ceramide?

ETA:I realize there are diff ways to gain elasticity, I've also tried acidifying my hair but that wasn't very helpful to me which is another reason why this thread is interesting to me
 
Nonie, Thanks for the link re acidifying.

I cut and paste the relevant portion:

pH's (see H-Bonds)
Let's start with pH. Firstly, dry hair has no pH. Only aqueous solutions have pH's. When hair is in an aqueous solution it normally has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 the skin does too. One of the most beneficial treatments hair can have is to be acidified. pH's of 3.0 to 3.5 will not only close the cuticle but more importantly compact it. This:
1) Adds natural shine - (light reflects off a smooth surface)
2) Detangles - Cuticle layer can not "grab" each other.
3) Adds elasticity - The lower the pH, it higher the positive charge. This in turn brings hydrogen bonds from a beta state (weak) to and alpha state (strong). Hydrogen bonds account for nearly 100% of the hair's elasticity.
4) Locks in moisture and protein - A compacted cuticle will not allow evaporation or dissociation as much as an open cuticle.

Contrary to belief, most shampoos has a pH lower than 7.0 (neutral). The key is to bring the pH down much lower. pH's lower than 3.0 can have adverse effects during prolonged use. Example) lemon juice has a pH of ~2.5.


This interesting. I wonder though, how does this reconcile with the fact that when some people do acidifying treatments, e.g. ACV rinses, they experience brittle hair? Or is that because of a separate drying effect?

This is one reason why I appreciate brands like joico, elasta qp and lanza. They put the pH right on the label.

As a fine haired relaxed and color treated head, it is imperative for me to keep my cuticle as intact as possible. Joico did that for me if for nothing else the low pH levels.
 
This is one reason why I appreciate brands like joico, elasta qp and lanza. They put the pH right on the label.

As a fine haired relaxed and color treated head, it is imperative for me to keep my cuticle as intact as possible. Joico did that for me if for nothing else the low pH levels.

I agree. It takes the hassle out slash easier for me to make a decision slash buy more prods.. ::vicious cycle:::grin:
 
I agree. It takes the hassle out slash easier for me to make a decision slash buy more prods.. ::vicious cycle:::grin:

:lachen: You too huh? I actually find myself going back and forth to the joico and lanza website because I won't have to play guessing games with the pH.
 
This is one reason why I appreciate brands like joico, elasta qp and lanza. They put the pH right on the label.

As a fine haired relaxed and color treated head, it is imperative for me to keep my cuticle as intact as possible. Joico did that for me if for nothing else the low pH levels.

Aw MAN! now I gotta read up on PH?

Can we use those little ph test strips from the drugstore?

I'm at product saturation. If I have to buy one more thing, I will vomit!
 
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