Elle Magazine UK Feature: The Expert Guide to Afro Hair

[SequinsAndAbsinthe]

Hi LHCFers

Thought i'd post you a little Elle feature that has been penned by some leading UK hairdressers. The full article can be found here.


http://www.elleuk.com/beauty/hair/hair-features/(section)/the-expert-guide-to-afro-hair

It made me smile because for reasons you can guess, it did not teach me anything new. All the concepts discussed have already been divulged, experimented with and honed by this site...and dare I add, at cheaper cost.

However, I'm still happy that this info is going out into the wider market dispelling some myths being perpetuated by some UK/Euro afro-hairdressing magazines (Black Hair & Beauty UK Magazine, anyone?) which I stopped reading years ago when the untruths became, oh too much to bear.

Anyway (cope, paste, clickety-click)

AFRO HAIR CHARACTERISTICS
If you’re blessed with afro hair, you’ll know that it varies as much as Caucasian locks. “Afro-Caribbean hair is lightest in texture; Brazilian hair is drier and denser; next Arabic hair is extremely thick, course and curly, and ultimately, African hair is the biggest – the most thick and curly” explains Errol Douglas, celebrity hairstylist and three times winner of the Best Afro Hairdresser of the Year award.
However, regardless of where you come from, as Subrina Kidd, Artistic Director and Afro Specialist at Toni & Guy says “most types of afro hair have a tendency to be more vulnerable, dry and porous than Caucasian types”.
The key to the perfect afro is to add moisture and lock it in to your hair. Here’s how…

CHOOSING A SHAMPOO
When choosing a shampoo and conditioner it is worth investing a bit of money. - erm, product plug alert moment lol “Every time you wash your hair you strip out moisture, so you have to add it in with the products you use” explains Amir Delijani, Daniel Hersheson's pro when it comes to styling and managing afro hair.
Anna Kalli, a stylist specialising in afro hair at Hob Salons recommends “investing in Caviar Moisture Shampoo, £25.55 and Conditioner, £26.35 by Alterna at Lookfantastic.com as the quality ingredients are perfect for depositing moisture back in to the hair and replenishing afro curls”. Amir recommends Keracare’s Hydrating and detangling shampoo, £6.90 and the Humecto Conditioner, £7.10 both at HQ Hair.com, which he describes as “superb on dry, afro hair”.
If you want to go for something with a more purse friendly price tag, look for products that promise to inject moisture back in to the hair. A good ingredient for dry hair is natural oil. Try Olive Oil’s Organic Root Stimulator Shampoo, £3.40 followed by its Lotion, £2.84, both from Boots.com. Which can be used on natural and relaxed hair (it has had rave reviews, fyi).

HOW TO WASH
How many times a week you wash your hair depends on its density. It can vary from as little as once every four days, to as long as every ten. “Afro hair needs its natural oils to perform” says Errol, “washing it too regularly means it just gets too dry” he adds.
There is a technique to washing afro hair that is worth adopting to get optimum results. “Shampoo twice with a moisturising or detangling shampoo, massage into the scalp, roots, middle and then end. When you condition, towel dry first, then apply conditioner to the hair concentrating on the ends” explains Errol.
If your hair is incredibly dry, eliminate the shampoo phase every so often :2cool:and just massage a conditioner into your hair, rinsing thoroughly. This will rid your hair of dirt and prevent any of you hair’s natural oils being stripped.

XTRA CONDITIONING
If conditioning your hair in the shower doesn’t offer enough moisture, layer-up and apply a leave-in conditioner to towel dried hair. Mizani’s Moisturising Silkening Liquid Gel, £12.25 at lookfantastic.com, is just like a moisturiser for your hair containing chamomile and natural oils; it will soften the hair and prevent breakage at the ends. Amir recommends “Silky Locks K2H 365 leave-in conditioner", £5.99 at rootsandsculpture.co.uk, "it’s brilliant and can be used on natural or relaxed hair”.
Another way to target dry hair is from the roots down. Using scalp oil will boost your own production and keep hair healthy. Mizani sell a great scalp oil called Comfiderm, £12.25 at lookfantastic.com, while Suki Skincare’s Hair Scalp Conditioning Oil, £29 from Harvey Nichols, containing fruit oils, is another good choice.
Top tip: make sure you always use a wide tooth comb to gently detangle wet or damp hair.

RELAXED HAIR
Having your hair professionally relaxed will make it easier to style straight and into neat curls. “Relaxing is great; it creates styling versatility” says Ursula Stephen, Rihanna’s hairstylist. However make sure you don’t book in for the treatment too much as it can cause damage to the hair. Amir recommends having your hair relaxed every 8-10 weeks, rather than every time you notice root re-growth. 
“Straightened hair needs a good smoothing agent” explains Errol; “any of the Moroccan Oil products” adds Errol. Silken Seal Liquid Sheen, £10.95 by Keracare at loveafrocosmetics.com is also a good pick.
Relaxing, from £120 at Daniel Hersheson, Conduit Street, London

WEEKLY TREATS
You may think a conditioner layered with a leave-in product would be enough, but to keep your hair in optimum condition you should be applying a mask at least once every week. 
“Always use a deep conditioning treatment once a week, especially if you have chemically-treated hair to keep it strong, and avoid breakage or thinning” explains hair expert Frederic Fekkai. 
Fekkai’s Shea Butter Hair Mask, £18 at johnlewis.com, will help restore moisture into the hair in just one treatment. Alternatively, Ojon’s Hair Restorative Treatment, £39 at johnlewis.com, is a brilliant product, it not only smells delicious but can be left on for as little as 20 minutes to improve your hairs condition by 52%. If you apply the product, use a hairdryer for five minutes and leave it on over night, you’ll get even better results with a 64% improvement. 
“Masks are definitely a must. If you don’t use them you will have a dry looking afro with no shine at all. They help condition, and keep hair moisturised - you MUST feed your hair, in order for it to be healthy” adds Ursula.

 

[SequinsAndAbsinthe]

GET INGREDIENT SAVVY
If they aren’t already, make oils your hair’s new best friend. “Anything with mango oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil, coconut oil are all really moisturising and give the hair sheen” says Errol, “mango seed oil is the most revolutionary smoothing and moisturising ingredient out at the moment” he adds. Errol recommends Thermo-Active Repair Ceram, £12.75 by Matrix Biolage (enq: 0800 387 608) , which contains mango seed oil.
Frederic Fekkai also agrees that oils are needed to keep afro hair in tip-top condition, “apply various natural oils like Vitamin E or Carrot Oil at home to nourish relaxed hair and to treat the scalp”.
Afro Love’s Coconut Collection contains pure coconut oil, olive oil, vegetable oils, Vitamin E and pure lanolin. Its products are also well priced starting at £2.29 for the Leave-in Cream Conditioner (loveafrocosmetics.com). A bit more expensive is Seven Wonder Miracle Oil, £13.95, by Century Systems at victoriahealth.com which includes seven oils; olive oil, canola oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, sesame seed oil, castor oil, safflower oil. You can use it on your skin and in the bath making it a versatile choice which makes up for the price.

DRYING YOUR HAIR
It is always best to leave your hair to dry naturally as it is far less damaging than heat styling. However, in the real world this isn’t a practical option, especially if your hair is thick and dry. Very dry hair will try to hold on to the moisture meaning your hair will take a long time to dry by itself. 
When looking for a hairdryer it is worth investing in an ionic version. These frizz-reducing products work by blasting out ions which attach the water molecules to the hair helping to break them down. So the water can be absorbed by the hair and also evaporated faster meaning the drying time is quicker and the overall process is kinder to your hair. Toni & Guy who sell an Ionic Moisture Lock Dryer, £39.99 have taken things one step further by creating an ionic straightener, £59.99 (both available from argos.co.uk) that uses ions to retain moisture in the hair while it’s being straightened. Nice, but not a necessity - so long as you invest in an ionic hairdryer and plenty of nourishing hair products.
Toni & Guy’s Afro Ionic Moisture Lock Dryer, comes with a pik. “A pik attachment is great for raking out hair” explains Errol. It also works to detangle and smooth as you can be more precise with your heat distribution.
Remington’s Pro Ionic Ultra Hairdryer, £24.99 (stocked at boots.com) doesn’t have a pik, but does include a diffuser attachment which spreads the hot air outwards to dry more of your hair faster. It also prevents hot air being channelled in one direction for too long, which can be damaging.
Oh and remember, never heat-style your hair without a good heat protecting spray. GHD’s Thermal Pretector Spray for dry and course hair, £9.95 from ghdhair.com, will protect hair from heats up to 200 degrees, offers light hold and protects from UV rays too.

HIGH SHINE
If your hair isn’t dry (and if you followed the tips in the rest of this feature, it shouldn’t be) but still doesn’t shine, that’s probably due to the curl. Curly hair just isn’t as shiny as straight hair, fact. It’s to do with how the light hits and bounces off - straight hair is better at reflecting light and that equals shine. If you want to fake shiny hair you need to invest in two products – serum and shine spray. “Serums such as Sassoon Diamond Polish, £15.95, help to smooth away frizz and add instant shine," says Mark Hayes, International Creative Director for Sassoon Salon. Another good serum is John Frieda Frizz-Ease Extra Strength Hair Serum, £5.79 (from boots.com) which works hard to transform very coarse, thick hair.
When it comes to shine sprays, Label.m Shine Mist, £11.50 (lookfantastic.com) is a good pick. ““If there was one type of product that is an absolute must for Afro hair types in the Spring and Summer especially, it is something shine based. This can be used daily and helps to moisturize whilst giving a nice glossy finish” says Subrina Kidd. Or as Errol mentioned earlier, olive oil is a great ingredient for taming coarse and frizzy hair. Try APH’s Olive Oil Sheen Spray, £2.59 (sallyexpress.com) and keep it in your handbag for high-shine top-ups whenever your hair needs a boost.

SUN PROTECTION
Just like your skin, hair needs protection from the sun and pollution. It is really important for all hair to be protected during summer months, but even more imperative for hair that is really dry or damaged. Just as you would add a layer of sun protection into your skincare regime in the summer (although you should be doing it all year round), you need to add this layer into your hair care routine too.
Look for products that protect the hair from UV rays, as well as environmental damage like pollution. Schwarzkopf’s new BC Bonacure Sun Protect Spray, £9.85 (enq: 01296 314 000) protects from UV and pollution as well as damage caused by the sea and sand, ideal if you’re lucky enough to be jetting off somewhere this summer.
Mark Hill also offer a sun protecting spray for a purse friendly £3.42 (at boots.com). It claims to contain spf 6 and protect the hair and scalp from UV rays.


IN YOUR KIT-BAG
There are a few tools and products that you should always have, stocked up, in your bathroom. 
A wide tooth comb is a must. 
“These are ideal for afro hair. A small tooth comb will just rip your hair out” explains Ursula. Make sure you comb your hair once its towel dried to ensure it doesn’t dry tangled, also keep a comb with you in your bag for touch-ups on-the-go.
Wide Tooth Comb, £1.50 by Boots Essentials (boots.com)
Get yourself a silk pillowcase. 
“As is commonly known, women with Afro hair should be wearing a scarf around their hair when in bed, but I have a lot of clients who complain about feeling unattractive to their partner, so the fantastic alternative is to invest in silk or satin sheets and pillow cases, they help to lock in the moisture and combat breakage,” says Subrina. 
We love Silkskin's version, £35 at houseoffraser.co.uk.
Forget dry shampoo.
Dry shampoo sits on afro hair, “if you spray it in, it hits afro hair which is oilier and goes flaky”, according to Errol Douglas. “I use talcum powder on the hair to suck up excess product between washes. Give your hair a good rub with the talc and it goes translucent, then brush it out” says Errol. erplexed
His other trick is greaseproof paper, which you can use like blotting paper on the hair to take out any oily deposits. Genius! 
Choose your hairspray carefully.
When looking for a hairspray you want something that will hold your curly hair in place but that won’t send hair sticky or crispy. Also, Amir warns “if your hair is styled straight you want to avoid a hairspray with high levels of alcohol that can break down the style”. He swears by L’Oreal’s Elnett hairspray.:endworld:
Hooks not bands.
Forget elastic hairbands on afro hair, they will just get tangled up in your hair. Errol recommends using hooks (also known as bungees) to secure your hairstyle in place instead “to prevent breakage”.
Try Bungee Bands by Blax, £3.55 for three (from hqhair.com).

Interesting read all in all. I’m glad mainstream mags are getting savvy about their wider market. I commend Marrie-Claire on being very afro-friendly since pre-2005 when I was in high school. My afro hair thrivved from their tips - until I visited a salon for the first time in my adult life and they fried my hair :-( Lessons learned and thanks to this site I learnt all the above at cheaper cost and speedier pace than I would ever have wished. Thanks guys. :waytogo:

 

[lizzyb168]

Im suprised and happy that they are putting this information out there. Some of the things they said, i was like but the majority of it was spot on. Hopefully alot of young/old women will learn from this.

 

[Curly Lee]

I'm surprised at how much they got right! Wow that's impressive especially considering that Essence a magazine FOR people of African descent gets so much WRONG when it comes to natural hair.
Go head Elle UK!

 

[Sade]

I am going to Errol Douglas's salon to get my hair done on Saturday! So excited. Since I moved to the UK back in March of 2012 I have been looking for someone to do my hair. My hair is in a serious need of a trim.