I know it doesn't answer all of your questions but I hope this helps. /images/graemlins/smile.gif
Acidifier
Acidifiers are conditioners with a pH of 3.0. They take out tangles, add body and promote shine in hair.
Acid Perm
A permanent wave with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0. A milder perm than an alkaline perm, it produces softer curls.
Alkaline Perm
A permanent wave with a pH from 7.5 to 9.5. Produces a tight curl.
Aromatherapy
Use of essential oils fragrance for therapeutic benefits.
Balm
Balm is a thicker gel used to manage and control difficult hair.
Beeswax
Wax obtained from honeycombs or resin from bark. Thickener, emulsifier, and stiffing agent in ointments, cold creams, lotions, lipsticks, etc. Sometimes used as a hair removing wax.
Clarifier
Clarifiers are shampoos that can be used about once a week to rid hair of any spray, gel or grease build-up. They are also good for prepping hair when you are going to color it. Slightly more alkaline (higher pH) than ordinary shampoo,
Chelating
A deep cleansing process which strips the hair lightly before a chemical service. Also known as clarifying.
Conditioner
A moisturizing product to use after you have cleaned your hair. Conditioners generally make hair less tangled, smoother and shinier. As with shampoos, there are conditioner varieties for every type of hair.
Conditioning Shampoo
Conditioning Shampoo contains a unique blend of conditioners, moisturizers and protein, which help to revitalize hair, leading to added structure and body. A small amount of this concentrated formula produces a rich lather. A second shampoo leaves hair with extra shine and manageability.
Cortex - Middle layer of the hair that is made up of protein fibers that contain the hair's color and moisture. This layer gives hair its body. When damaged, these protein fibers can unravel, causing lost moisture, splits and breaks.
Cuticle - Outer layer of the hair that is made up of hard, overlapping, transparent cells that lie flat. This layer reflects light and makes hair shine. When damaged, these cells peel up and make hair look dull.
Depilatory
Product used to remove hair from the follicle.
Detangler
A spray-on or rub-in conditioner that takes snarls out of the hair, leaving it easier to comb.
Detoxifier
A cleanser that removes chlorine and buildup caused by conditioners, styling aids and shampoos.
Elixir
A leave-on conditioner that protects hair from styling damage and helps to restore body to chemically treated hair. Made with natural emollients to prevent tangles and static to leave hair soft and silky.
Emollient
Emollients moisturize and protect by trapping water in the hair. This glossy product makes hair easy to comb, softer and smoother. This especially benefits coarse or chemically treated hair.
Emulsion
A suspension of small globules of one liquid in a second liquid.
Finishing Spray
A hairspray with medium hold used on a finished style to maintain its shape and hold.
Freezing Spray
A hairspray with the firmest hold used to maintain style of hard to hold hair.
Gel
Gels are best for fine to medium textured hair and can be used when your hair is wet or dry. On wet hair, gel will help to form it into a certain shape or provide lift. On dry hair, gel can be used to slick back for the wet look or add volume to selected areas. Gels are available in tubes or in spray-on versions. Most are lightweight and can contain sunscreen.
Glosser
Similar to pomade, a glosser is available in both liquid and spray-on version to add shine to hair and smooth frizzies.
Glycerin
Glycerin is a neutral, sweet-tasting, colorless, thick liquid which freezes to a gummy paste and which has a high boiling point. Glycerin can be dissolved into water or alcohol, but not oils. On the other hand, many things will dissolve into glycerin easier than they do into water or alcohol. So it is a good solvent. Glycerin is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs and retains water from the air. If you left a bottle of pure glycerin exposed to air, it would take moisture from the air and eventually, it would become 80 per glycerin and 20 percent water.
Hair Color
A product that changes the tone or color of your hair. Coloring products are available in a variety of formats: Permanent color lets you change your hair to any color you choose and lasts until you cut it off. With permanent hair color, new growth is visible. Intermediate hair color is a permanent dye that stays on your hair until you cut it off. The color is subtle, so you wont notice new growth as much as you do with permanent color. Semi-permanent color stays for 10 to 12 washings and is used to perk up color and give hair a shinier appearance. Temporary hair color comes in the form of shampoo or dyes and generally lasts just a few shampoos.
Hair Follicle - A tube-like opening in the epidermis where the hair shaft develops and into which the sebaceous glands open.
Hair Shaft - When the hair leaves the surface of the scalp, it is known as the hair shaft. This consists mainly of keratin - a hard protein similar to that of our nails. Keratin is very strong, and supple, at the same time. Its great resistance comes from its high content of sulphurated amino acids.
Hair Types - Hair grows out of hair follicles. Each hair follicle is next to an oil gland. The difference in texture is determined by the way hair grows from its follicle and the shape hair takes as it's formed. Coarse hair has thick strands and lots of body. If it's dry, however, it can be wiry and hard to control. Fine hair has thin strands and is soft, but lacks body. It may have a hard time holding a style. Curly hair may be porous and tend towards split ends because of the spiral structure in which it grows. Straight hair's follicle is almost round and is positioned nearly perpendicular to the scalp. Wavy hair's follicle is oval-shaped and is positioned at a slight angle to the scalp. Very Curly hair's follicle is an elongated oval and is positioned at a sharp angle to the scalp.
Hair Spray
Use on dry hair to secure curl and hold style in place. There are hundreds of hair sprays available to cover a variety of hair types and consumer wants. Molding spray makes hair stiff and holds it firmly in place. Medium strength spray holds hair without a lot of stiffness, and mild strength sprays hold hair but allows it move and look natural. In addition to keeping your hair in place, some hair sprays offer other benefits like added shine and SPF protection.
Henna
Derived from the henna plant, a vegetable dye made from its leaves and stems into a powder. Traditionally, it imparts a reddish cast to the hair by coating it. Clear henna enhances shine. Henna cannot be dyed over since it coats the outer hair shaft, affecting the penetration of the chemical colorant.
Humectant
A high-shine product that draws moisture from the air to moisturize the hair, humectant is especially effective in dry climates and on naturally curly or permed hair.
Medulla - Inner layer of the hair (missing from fine hair) that hair is thought to be the supporting structure of the hair
Molding Mud
Molding mud is a thick and heavy product that can be used to control or define small areas like curls or spikes.
Mousse
Mousse can be used on wet or dry hair to enhance texture, volume and movement without looking stiff. Like most products, mousse comes in a variety of formulas from soft to firm hold. It is a good choice for curly hair.
Permanents
A chemical treatment that, when used with rods (rollers), will leave your hair curly or wavy. Permanents relax over time.
Pomade
Pomades add shine, texture and control to hair especially if it is thick and curly. Will smooth out frizzies and provide extra hold. Use too much, however, and your hair may look limp and greasy.
Propylene Glycol
A clear, colorless, viscous, slightly bitter-tasting solvent, wetting agent and Humectant, it is the most common moisture-carrying vehicle used in cosmetics aside from water. It is also found in food as a confectionery, chocolate products, ice cream emulsifiers, shredded coconut, beverages, baked goods, toppings, icings, and meat products to prevent discoloring during storage. Propylene Glycol also promotes the retention of moisture and has the same moisture drawing properties as glycerin. When a sample of pure Propylene Glycol is set out in air, it will absorb up to 60 percent of its weight in water. On a safety note: Propylene Glycol is NOT antifreeze as some of the internet literature would have you believe (many "natural product" companies hawking their wares claim this erroneously). Ethylene Glycol, on the other hand is antifreeze. Propylene Glycol is approved by the FDA and can be found in everything from toothpaste to coating fruits and vegetables in your local grocery store. There is no evidence that this ingredient has been found to be a toxin and most often becomes confused with Ethylene Glycol which is found in Radiator Fluid and is in fact a toxin. Because Ethylene Glycol is so dangerous to humans and the environment, an Earth friendly, nontoxic coolant has been created from Propylene Glycol in recent years. Again this is not the same as the toxic Ethylene Glycol. Propylene Glycol is a very efficient co-solvent, humectant and water-soluble skin moisturizer. It is a superior lightweight ingredient that has water-binding capacity and can help other ingredients penetrate the skin.
Protein Treatment
A treatment used on the hair. Designed to add strength and elasticity to the hair by adding protein to the cortex.
Relaxer
Also called a straightener, this is the opposite of a permanent. Hair is straightened by combing a chemical solution through it.
Revitalizer
An intensive, deep-conditioning product that restores moisture and strengthens hair. It is especially good for hair that has been damaged by chemicals.
Seasonal Coloring
A principal of coordinating certain groups of colors that are flattering to particular kinds of coloring. Broken into four categories: Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter.
Sculpting Spray
Styling tool used on wet hair with a blow dryer or other heating device. It helps to curl and style hair.
Sebum - the oily secretion of the sebaceous glands; with perspiration it moistens and protects the skin. It is especially important for keeping the hair healthy, and moisturized. African textured hair tends to have less sebum distributed along it's shaft due to the curls.
Setting Lotion
Used on damp hair, it helps to add volume and hold curl longer.
Shampoo
A soap or soap-like product used to cleanse your hair and scalp. There are many types of shampoo available for all types of hair. From oily to dry to flyaway; you can buy shampoo to address any of your hair needs.
Shiner
Similar to a pomade or glosser, a shiner adds shine and smoothness to hair. Spray-in shiners aren't as thick as pomades and are best for straight hair.
Silicone-Based Oil
A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics. Silicone-based oils are like emollients in that they seal in moisture, but they are synthetic.
Strand Test - a strand test times how long it will take a relaxer to relax the hair to the desired straightness without risking doing the entire head of hair and damaging it. A small lock of hair is clipped to test with. The timer is set for the maximum length of time recommended by the relaxer manufacturer and the relaxer solution is applied. Once the strand reaches the desired level of straightness, the timer is stopped and the time noted. This will then be the length of time the relaxer will be left on to achieve the desired result. The hair should never be processed for more than the time recommended by the relaxer manufacturer.
Styling Polymer
Styling polymers contain chains of organic molecules that wrap around the hair to increase support and hold hair in place.
Texturizer
A variety of products that are used to add texture and volume to hair.
Thermal Styling Lotion
Used in conjunction with a heat-producing appliance like a blow dryer, curling iron or electric roller, thermal styling lotions protect hair against heat damage and help to hold curl.
Thickener
For fine or bodiless hair, thickeners can provide a much-needed boost. This heat-activated product is applied to wet hair and wont work unless you blow-dry your hair after applying it.
Volumizer
Volumizers are used to add body and volume to hair when you are styling it with a heat appliance. With a lighter hold than gel and mousse, volumizers add body to thin, fine and straight hair.
courtesy of
Our Black Hair