Correct neutralizing!

[relaxedhair]

Hi everyone, I don't know if this is common knowlege already but I'll post it anyway cos I didn't know. My hair has never been neutralized this way in the past. I've had anywhere between 2-6 neutralising washes where it was foamed up, scrubbed a bit and then rinsed out. I don't know if doing that is as good at removing all alkali as this recommended method:

"To re-balance the hair to its natural pH level, acidic "normalizing" or "neutralizing" shampoos with a pH 4.5 - 5 are usually used after the creme relaxer is rinsed from the hair. It is important to note that the rinsing time of the relaxer has a very direct bearing on how well these products work. The more the hair is rinsed the more likely cuticle damage will occur. To prevent swelling of the hair, it is recommended that a conditioning neutralizer be used instead of a shampoo. These products are applied generously to the entire head and particularly to the new growth area, scalp, and hairline to completely neutralize the alkalinity from where it is most concentrated (new growth area) to where it is least concentrated (ends): just after the relaxer creme is rinsed out (usually 95 seconds of rinsing or 45-60 seconds for short hair). The low pH of the conditioning neutralizer (pH 3 - 3.5) will handle the excess alkali. The products should be combed through to keep the hair in a straight pattern and allowed to remain on the hair and scalp for at least 5 minutes, then rinsed and re-applied for another 3 minutes before rinsing again.

Does anyone know a conditioning neutralizer?

This seems to be an industry source. I found it here you can read the whole thing: http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/content/haircare/brochure/ethnic.html

To summarize:

1. When rinsing out the relaxer cream in the beginning before the neutraliser only rinse for 95 secs, or 45-60 secs for short hair to prevent damage and hair swelling.

2. A conditioning neutralizer is better is you can find it.

3. However you neutralize your hair, leave it on for 5 mins, rinse, reapply and leave for a further 3 mins to remove all alkali (lye) from your hair.

Just worried cause I really think not rinsing your hair out properly contributes to dryness and breakage.

 

[myco]

Several companies make conditioner's that are supposed to be used right after the relaxer. These are the ones that I can think of off of the top of my head:

Affirm 5n1
Vitale Positive Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse
Optimum Opti Ph Normalizer
Motions Lavish Conditioner
PCJ Nutri-Sheen

After using a normalizing conditioner, I usually follow up with the neutralizing shampoo 2x. Letting it sit for 5 minutes each time.

 

[Sosoothing]

Does this mean a neutralizing conditioner is much better and should ideally be used instead of a neutralizing shampoo?

 

[yokourt]

Does this mean a neutralizing conditioner is much better and should ideally be used instead of a neutralizing shampoo?

bumping

 

[myco]

Does this mean a neutralizing conditioner is much better and should ideally be used instead of a neutralizing shampoo?

All of the conditioners that I mentioned above come with a normalizing conditoner as well as a neutralizing shampoo. The normalizing conditioner is an additional step that preserves and strengthens the hair strand, but it shouldn't replace the neutralizing shampoo completely. They work in tandem, IMO.

 

[relaxedhair]

Hi girls!

I got this link from ISP corp who manufacture all kinds of chemicals. The above ^^ were some of their fiindings about ethnic haircare.

What they are saying is using a conditioning neutralizer and not a shampoo will be less damaging during the step that you are trying to neutralize your hair.
I think they DO mean a conditioner because they then go on to describe 2 examples (i think these are examples of products in development not real ones) of this as:

POST PERM NEUTRALIZING CONDITIONER
Physical characteristics: Clear straw liquid, slightly viscous, pH 3.0-3.5
This formula is a clear, slightly viscous straw-colored conditioner with a low pH. It contains a blend of ingredients that facilitate combing the hair straight, neutralize the alkalinity, and condition the hair effectively without excessive drying of the ends.

AND:

CONDITIONING LOTION AND NEUTRALIZER
Physical characteristics: Soft, thick white cream pH 3.0-3.5
The above formula is a soft thick creme that easily detangles the hair and adds softness. The conditioning complex of CERAPHYL 60, 70 and 85 softens and detangles.


How many neutralizers do you know that are like this?
I was researching and the only conditioners I found that are actually neutralizers are:

Motions Salon Herbals Neutralizing Conditioner
and lots of Affirm conditioners designed to be used right after the relaxer's washed off say they are normalizing (neutralizing). I'm not entirely sure if Vitale Positive conditioner is neutralizing. I hope it is cos that's the relaxer system I wanted to use.

I think what I'll do is use an Affirm right-after-relaxer normalizing conditioner followed by Keracare colour indicator shampoo to make sure, until something more reliable comes along. I think it's only a matter of time!

I really think the most important things to take from this research is to NOT overinse your hair when washing out the relaxer! And to actually leave on your neutralizer for 5 mins, and then 3mins the second time, not rinse it right off, and let it do it's job properly.

Dealing with these chemicals correctly = less overprocessing, damage and dryness.

 

[relaxedhair]

Myco thanks for that list!
I've got more options now when looking for a neutralizing conditioner.
The Optimum looks like a good choice, and the Motions Lavish is a shampoo that says it has high levels of conditioners and moisturizers for anyone who wants to use a shampoo still. I think I might get the Optimum, thanks!!

 

[Porsche19]

Nexus Ensure has a pH of 3 I think.

I don't like the article because it just states things without explanation. WHY does the hair swell more as it's being rinsed? It just says that it does.

 

[relaxedhair]

Oh right.
I think cos it's an industry page they probably didn't feel the need to explain to each other.
It's the chemistry I think.

A-(aq) + H2O(l) ↔ HA(aq) + OH-(aq)


Lye reacts with the water and it isn't good for your hair, and I guess is what causes it to swell.

This maybe rambling a bit but the OH- (lye) acts as strong base to the water, taking a hydrogen ion from it if I can remember.
The end result is the OH- becomes water and the water becomes lye, they kind of swap. However I think this reaction is aggressive and that what does your hair in.

I also know that hair swells and the cuticles lift in alkali solution, and the opposite: smooths cuticles down and closes them in acidic solution. Too strong a solution either way will break your hair down.

 

[relaxedhair]

...Also I just found out that the above reaction ^^^^ is highly exothermic (gives out heat). This must be some of the damage they are talking about.

Don't worry too much it's easy to start getting too scientific. They just mean to be aware and don't rinse for ages and ages, just enough to get it out. (95secs long hair or 45-60 secs short hair)
Thanks for the Nexxus recommendation too

 

[msmerc]

Motions Salon Herbals makes a neutralizing conditioner to be used with their relaxer. I have used it several times. However, I am from old school and still follow with a neutralizing shampoo, out of habit. I don't know the ph, but is says it balances the ph after relaxing.